Building Steel Plate target stands...Need Ideas/pics of what works

TheChad-->

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I am going to purchase 2 10" Ar500 plates to use with my 300wm at 6-800yds. Im sure some of you have built them before, post some pics if you can to give me some ideas!

Thanks Guys
 

JC Steel

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If you can drive something into the ground, use a T POST bracket. They are cheap and very fast/effective.

Of you can not, use something like a rebar target stand. Also cheap, easy to use and all you need is some scrap rebar in 4 foot lengths. They work very well and I have some in my personal collection.
 

stefan73

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    When I get some time I'll take a couple of pictures of the stand I built. The pickets are great if you live in the lower 48. Not so great when you live in Alaska with frozen ground.
     

    roggom

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    Here are some pics of my stand. I tried rebar tripod type stands before, but they kept tipping over. I have to hump my stand out to 700 or so yard so I dont want to be going back and forth more than needed.

    Here is the stand as I built it with a piece of mild steel as a target. The base is just like a ISPC target stand. I used 1 1/2" steel angle iron cut to 24" lengths. The uprights are 1 1/4" square bar stock. The top is angle iron with some 1 1/4 square stock to hold the support bars


    img2012042200155.jpg



    img2012042100146.jpg


    img2012042100145i.jpg



    It breaks down for easy transport.

    img2012042000143.jpg



    Here it is with a 12" AR500 gong, also lessons learned, the original design I used 1" square stock as support bars, that was a mistake. The first time you shoot it, they become riveted together. I replaced the bars with 3 each rebars. Even if you shoot 1 it will only bend then it can be replaced. I have never had this stand tip over. Also you can see that I welded a couple pieces of angle iron forward to deflect bullets, well it works a little.

    dsc05817mp.jpg


    dsc05817d.jpg



    I got all of the metal from home depot, with military discount came to around $70 with the U and I bolts.

    It can be a little heavy, but I run a tie down strap to each side and carry it like those sandwich sign guys. With the target against my back, the straps over my shoulders and the base out front. The rebar stacked horizontally on the base.


    I have a 8" gong coming in the mail, I made one just like this, but half the size for closer work. I can post pics once it is done.
     
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    TheChad-->

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    Thanks guys lots of good ideas! I might can get my hands on a welder but no guarantees. I was thinking along the lines of something free standing i could put together with bolts or maybe heavy duty PVC.
     

    jagged77

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    I use 4 half round fence posts bolted together to make two A frames, drive them into the ground a couple of inches for stability and then place a bar across the V's to hang your plate. A cheap an effective solution however the posts eventually get shot away with the bullet splash.
     

    Outlaw45

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    2011-06-24_15-53-07_916_zps7d2e1222.jpg


    Sorry for the bad cell pic. 10" gong, orange is 1" square tubing, and the legs are round conduit that slip into the square tubing.
     

    surprise

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    I prefer using 2 x 4 because I can drive to my destination and target site. 2x4s are very easy to replace Which is why I choose to use them. I am working on a new design still using 2 x 4s will post some pictures when I get it finished.
     

    Tackleberry

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    If you end up hanging it instead of using a stand go to your fire department and get them to give you a small fire hose that will no longer meet their specs. Weld or have welded a small square tube ( 2" or 3" square ) on the back of the plate. You can hang the hose from any number of things to suspend the plate but it is almost impossible to shoot that hose in half. I have found chains, cables and 2bys to last only a shot or two and they break.
     

    K_4c

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    "H" base, 5 foot center section (attaches to the "H" base) and a bracket to your steel (bracket slides into your center section)... weld angle iron on the leading edge of the center section (saves it from being shot up/destroyed). I used square tubing and built a cant into the base (deflects the projectile towards the ground).
     

    264shooter

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    I used inner shield wire set up. I have wacked these with a 338 and have not broken or knocked one down yet. I drive the stake in the ground about two feet.
     

    CamW

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    Here's what I made, AR500 plates bolted to a 2x4 bracket.The targets are tilted forward at a 10 degree angle, helps with the splatter.The stand can also be used for paper targets.
    2/3 IPSC and 10" circle

    ar500onposts.jpg


    platebracket1.jpg


    I also made a swing set like the other guys using rebar and welded tubing.I used conveyer belt to hang the plates.

    ar500swingset.jpg
     
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    K_4c

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    Here's what I made, AR500 plates bolted to a 2x4 bracket.The targets are tilted forward at a 10 degree angle, helps with the splatter.The stand can also be used for paper targets.
    2/3 IPSC and 10" circle

    ar500onposts.jpg


    platebracket1.jpg


    I also made a swing set like the other guys using rebar and welded tubing.I used conveyer belt to hang the plates.

    ar500swingset.jpg


    yep. This is how I set my targets up as well... not with 2x4's tho. Nicely done bud.
     

    TheChad-->

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    well lots of great ideas thats for sure. Id like to build a stand that is tall enough to be sat at the 200 yard line with a 300 yd burm. So im guessing the plate will need to hang about 5ft. tall. Because I dont want to have to set it on the burm all the time id like to move it around at different distances. Thanks guys...
     

    B3dlam

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    You could always take a 4x4 and stick it in the middle of a 5 gallon bucket full of cement you can lean the post forward to help prevent your impacts tipping the setup over and it's easy to drag to a new area although it will be heavy. They also make 4x4 bases that are long spikes you can pound into the ground which might work depending on soil comp.


    Sent from my iPad autocorrect at your own risk.
     

    Ghillie man

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    Shooter that looks great. Simple and sturdy and not some big contraption that you have to Cary down rang. Did you drill that hole or did you get it that way?
     

    fw707

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    Steel from jc, and 4' rebar from Lowe's.
    I have conduit connectors from Ace and jc.

    Steelstuff_zpsab695c33.jpg
     

    kyshootnman

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    I welded up some of the rebar brackets. I had better stability by cutting the vertical pipe on a 60* and welding them together, then welding the horizontal pipe to them. I just use 5 pieces of 1/2" diameter 4' rebar for the stand. These work great and very mobile.
     

    Viper55

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    Combined styles for collapsable stand

    I combined numerous styles seen on various forums. Used rebar, wood and common plumbing connectors. First test run this Sunday.
     

    tnichols

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    If you don't have a welder and/or fabrication skills, take a look at Arntzen stands. I have 3. They fold, are solid, and are not that expensive.
     

    Casey S.

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    I built a plate rack for pistols outta 4" angle which holds five 8" round targets up with a piece of 1/2" pipe. Rebar legs that just set into place and I bolted rubber strap off of the bottom to hang rifle targets (I think it has a 10" diamond hanging now). It's heavy as hell but has lasted through thousands of rounds without any kinks. I'll take a pic next time I'm around it.
     

    Bull Arms

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    Mine are just like CSIreland's stands. 14" x 14" AR550 on the same style stand. Very portable, easily stored. I have yet to shoot the chain, but the metal caribeener type hooks do start to stretch from the steel swinging at impact. Rarely I will have the stand tip over, I think I van recall 2 times. Have a neighbor that is a very handy fabricator, which is nice when you are not...
     

    TheChad-->

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    Lots of good creative ideas posted!! I shoot on an 800yd range and the plate will need to hang about 5ft. high in order for missed rounds to impact the burm. I think the single 2x4 vertical post idea will work the best vs a swinging chain design. Thanks Guys!
     

    Sandbogg

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    Chad, we have used an 8' two by four with great results. The four 5/8" rebar legs on the three post target can be extended by slipping 3/4" conduit over them for extra stability if needed (which so far it has not ).

    I just made the single post stand and am not sure how it will do with an 8' stud, but so far it seems very solid.
     

    spelunk

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    Backside view, the piece of rubber conveyor belt lets it move and ring like a bell.
    2q8zqxs.jpg

    I like your target. Im curious if it rings well because my targets hanging from a crossbar only make a "clunk" sound. I want to try to make something like yours to see if it helps transfer sound back to the shooting position. What is that between the metal and rubber at the bottom of the belting?
     

    Easy_E

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    We used 1/2" black pipe with square tube legs welded . The legs and cross bar are 1/2" Rebar cut to 36". The plates are 1/4" AR500 light weight to carry out on state land . The holes are from a "friend" that didn't know armor piercing rounds would pierce armor ?

    [<a href="http://s570.photobucket.com/user/Easy_E_photos/media/20130523_134817_zps368de160.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/Easy_E_photos/20130523_134817_zps368de160.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130523_134817_zps368de160.jpg"/></a>
     

    Copen1822

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    Rebar and a welder. Light, strong, and super fast/easy to set up. Bottom has double spikes to add support in the ground.
     

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    bkincaid

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    I got tired of the fixed leg brackets so I made up some adjustable standards w/hinges to allow for leg adjustments. I can also use different lengths of 1" square tubing for the legs and hangar bars to suit my needs. Next ones will be 3/4" tubing as the 1" admittedly is a bit overkill I think, but it works.
     

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    finbox

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    I just go to Home Depot and buy the sawhorse hinges for $7 and a couple of 2X4's . Cost a total of $12 you can adjust the hight easily, its light weight, will not scratch up everthing, will not Ricochet like a steel stand, folds up, you can change the width in seconds to hang multable targets the wood will hold up to massive hits ( I shot one of the legs 30 times at 100 yards with .233 and it held.

    The BEST (chains are a joke and cut easy) rope to hang your steel is the cheap tow rope at Autozone $9 or other car stores. It is hollow inside like a Chinese finger trap. They sale two types. The one that works you can easily open it up from the side with you finger. Bullets spread it open and pass right through. You can cut it with a pocket knife, and open it up with you finger and slide the bolt through.

    I shoot full auto matches and the rope gets hit alot and it does nothing

    I have used every type of stand around and the above is the most sturdy, lightest, and the cheapest out there.

    Remember for shooting 1000 + its nice to have the plate SWING not just move for one second like a single stand mount. On days with high marage you can see the plate swinging after a hit. On a non rope mount its sometimes a hard call.

    The picture with my finger through the rope you can see dozens of rope hits with very little damage. The ropes on the skull are around 3 years old and its been used at 3 gun matches with a max distance of a 100 yards. My Estimate is around 3000 rounds on the same ropes. On the upper part of the rope you can see a single grey dot, that is the damage of a single rope hit.

    To make you steel ring don't pinch it with the bolts, choose a bolt with no threads near the head and mount like the picture. There is very little contact area, and the plate is loose, and can move freely and make a better "dong" sound that we all love so well.

    My wife is still looking for her yoga matt bag. LOL

    There are a lot of needless heavy contraptions out there

    Workforce 10-Compartment Sawhorse Bracket-SH107 at The Home Depot
    Keeper® 02859 - Tow Rope | O'Reilly Auto Parts
     

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