Building vs Buying

[tracktrash]

Hey everyone new guy here.. just starting to get into the long range precision game. I’ve been shooting for over 20 years, 3 year top end expert badge from the Marine Corps, have a bunch of ARs, NFA stuff, yet I know absolutely nothing about long range precision rifles. I have an idea of what I want but then I discovered this site and now I’m reconsidering. I was thinking I want a magnum caliber to be able to shoot out over 1500 yards once I get comfortable at 1000 yards. I was thinking 300 PRC and for a rifle I was looking at the Bergara Premier Ridgeback. Glass would either be a Leupold Mk5HD 7-35x56 or a Razor Gen 2 4.5-27x56... maybe a NightForce ATACR after all the reading on this forum. Right now I will only be shooting steel, I don’t plan to hunt with this rifle. I spend a lot of time for work out in Montana and North Dakota so there’s tons of open land to take advantage of. Some day soon I’d like to participate in amateur matches so I want a rifle that will be a do it all if that’s even possible.

I guess what I’m wondering is if I should even spend $2k on a production rifle? I don’t know any decent gunsmiths so that’s been swaying me away from buying a defiance receiver.

Thanks all!

 

[jbailey]

are you a recoil fan? 300PRC suggests yes.
do you reload?
MT/SD is great, but windy.

6.5 CM is a great cartridge for the "do it all, buy factory ammo" crowd. It will do your 1000yds no problem, even in MT (on most days). 1500yds is tougher, especially in MT.

Production rifles are very good these days, with many outstanding choices that will shoot with customs. Remember, you, not the rifle, are the biggest source of error, if you spend a reasonable amount of money on the kit. I would get a production rifle, and get going now.

After you have 12 to 24 months on it, you will know a lot more and you can make a decision - GO custom, or stick with the production job.

You have some good scopes picked out - and I would suggest you get one with a reticle that appears to make sense to your brain. Again, you, not the scope are the bigger issue, if you spend a certain amount of cash. Given that you interact most with the reticle, it is of high importance.

Best of luck and Semper Fi

 

[seansmd]

That is great advice, I would add looking at used production rifle with low/medium round count if you think you will learn quickly and move on. I have stock RPR sitting in mmy safe since I moved on, haven't touched it since, but will keep it for my wife when we both go to the range.
I would also add training, getting someone to look at you, your setup, your fundamentals, is huge. The paid training section on the hide is also really good.

 

[Kadams1563]

Personally I would wait until a nice custom 6.5 creed comes up for sale here and scoop it up.

I see no real reason for you to jump up to a magnum caliber unless your ONLY shooting 1500. If your shooting around 1k most of the time and 1500 every once in awhile the 6.5 creed will work fantastic for you. Factory ammo, lighter recoil, good barrel life.

For $2k you can find used customs around here.

 

[Steel head]

6.5 is a better start and quite capable of mile shots.

buying=you should get a sorted out rifle.

building=you may run into Issues, the bolt action parts world is not like the AR world where most everything works well together.

 

[SuperSneakySniper]

I always suggest to people new to long range, that they dont jump into a magnum right off the bat. Not because magnums are for "experienced shooters only", because thats not the case at all.
Its because theyre pricey to practice with, and every time I shoot targets with one, i feel as though I could be having just as much fun for less money if I had brought my 6.5 Creed, or 6mm instead. I also find it more enjoyable when the rifle doesnt recoil as much, and I can practice shooting in funky positions and I can watch the bullet trace idk im weird.

If you plan to regularly shoot targets from 1200-1800 yards, a magnum makes sense.
But if youre like me, who shoots mostly from 600-1200, with the occasional attempt at a 1-mile shot to brag to friends, then a standard caliber is the way to go!

This is all just opinion of course. If there is a specific reason you want a magnum, go for it!

If its just a "for fun" gun, that wont go hunting or go to a match, then go crazy! But if you have an alternate purpose for it, consider your options with care. If you want to shoot matches, id more strongly recomend staying away from the magnums, and go visit a local long range practical shooting match. Check out the rigs people are running there.

After months of debating what gun/stock/trigger/scope to buy, I finally visited a match to see what others use, and it was the best decision ive ever made. Everyone was incredibly welcoming. People were almost begging me to try out their rifles, and look through their scopes, they were answering all my stupid and nitpicky questions, and in the span of 15 minutes, I had learned so much more than I could have spending months browsing the web. From there on out I knew what I wanted, what was comfortable to me, what works and what doesnt etc... Aaand I ordered both an Impact 737 and a Lone Peak Fuzion that day haha.
So I definately suggest visiting a local match, life changing stuff!

I like your scope choices! I know nothing of Leupold, but the Razor Gen 2 remains the nicest glass Ive ever seen.

Do you prefer stocks or chassis? Thats going to influence a number of things.
With your budget, I would lean towards a custom, but only if you have a solid idea of what you want first.

 

[brianf]

caliber aside...

building is a waste of time

as said before factory or quality smith built rifles are the way to go

especially factory rifles over the past 10 years

most guys cant shoot the difference from a full custom and high quality factory

buy it and be shooting by the weekend

 

[NukeMMC]

A high school buddy just retired from USMC and when he went to get himself THAT rifle that he could use for breaking into long range and maybe humping short distance on a hunt, I helped him get all the parts and he had PWS at Quantico build the rifle. He went with 308 for a couple good reasons.:
1) Most shooting was going to be <800 with the occasional reach to 1000-1200.
2) His other desire, a 300WM, was less supported by match ammo, more expensive to shoot and shorter barrel life.

If you're still Active Duty, you may be able to get PWS to build it for you. He ended up with McM A5, R700SA with Badger knob, Badger DBM, Krieger Hvy Palma 1:10" 4 groove at 22", A419 Hellfire, Badger rail and rings for the Cronus BTR and a Walker R700 trigger. As expected, it's a hammer. Yes, he's a southpaw.

My retirement gift to him was an engraved pair of AICS magazines and a case of FGMM.

 

[Goathead1096]

You could have Shilen put together a barrelled action in your choice of caliber, and throw it in a KRG Bravo for under $2k. I've got one in 223 and it's a bugholer.

 

[Backcountryguy]

I’m not sure what it’s like in Western ND/Eastern MT....but on the east side of ND the mirage can be a real pain in your ass. Days of being able to shoot 1,000 plus yards are few and far between. I’ve been out shooting on quite a few days where even at 700 yards the gong is “washing away” in the mirage
on low scope magnification.

Winter is definitely the easiest time to not have to deal with such terrible mirage. But not many guys enjoy going out to plink steel when it is below freezing.

Not to mention the never-ending winds. It’s pretty rare to go shooting in less than a 10mph wind.

I agree with what’s been said above, I’d start with a smaller caliber, and if you decide you really enjoy shooting long range, and you actually can shoot(see) 1,500+ yards frequently, then buy/build a magnum rifle.

I started with a 6.5 creedmoor and then got 223 in a mirror image of the 6.5...because most of the time I shoot its 1,000 yards and less, so the 223 is just more fun to shoot, even if it isn’t really much more challenging than the 6.5 creedmoor

 

[Vodoun daVinci]

Bought a cheesy Savage 10 FCP-SR in 6.5 CM with a 24" fluted barrel. Started adding goodies/bolt on stuff as I figured it out - MDT LSS-XLGen2 chassis, Atlas Bipod, XLR Extreme buttstock, Ergo Suregrip, blah, blah, blah.

Base Rifle above and it shot sub MOA right out of the box with a $240 Vortex Crossfire scope. Then it went here:

With hand loads I'm still developing it'll shoot sub .5 MOA groups in the hands of an amateur. I have shot very expensive custom and built guns and they are *FaNtAsTiC!* but I have roughly 2K invested in this gun and even my nephew and brother who own guns costing 2X - 3X what this gun costs shoot my hot rod Savage *better* than they shoot their super duper rifles. I shoot their guns better than them but love my hot rod Savage.

Savage has limitations but my point is that I'd be hard pressed to recommend a person spend shit loads on a custom built gun before he has thousands of round under his belt downrange. start at the bottom and work up unless you are made of money and it is no object.

VooDoo

 

[Eurodriver]

I feel like I’m talking to myself a few years ago. Our creds line up exactly from the USMC to the NFA stuff.

If I could talk to 2015 Eurodriver (assuming the options today were available then) I would’ve told him to buy a Seekins Havak Bravo in 6.5 Creed, topped it with a 4-16 ATACR bought used off this site, and bought 1,000 rounds of factory Hornady 140gr ELDM and just shot.

I have an MPA Switch lug competition and 5-25 ATACR and handload. I am saving maybe 3-5 in SDs and my groups are about the same out to 600 yards on paper between my Seekins and my MPA.

I would’ve saved a whole bunch of time, a whole bunch of money, and gotten a lot of practice in that I didn’t get to because I was too busy trying to find something “cool” and I was spending countless hours annealing and doing all sorts of other pointless shit.

PS if you want to shoot far come to FL in the winter. No mirage. Some days there’s no wind. Temps in the 60s. Flat. Then you can drive your devil dog ass to the beach and go talk to some chicks who are interested in a man that isn’t wearing skinny jeans.

 

[tracktrash]

Thank you all for the helpful feedback... I really appreciate that. I am considering going down to 6.5 cm but at the same time I like being different and going against the grain. What about 6.5 PRC?? about 30 more cents a round than 6.5 cm for Hornady Match with 250 +/- fps. I have a RCBS reloading kit just havn't set up yet I dont dare dabble into that quite yet.

 

[DangerRanger]

Unless you’re hunting goats or deer at longer ranges the PRC isn’t doing anything for you but beating up your wallet and shoulder.

I’d buy a tikka ctr and be done with it.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Unless you’re hunting goats or deer at longer ranges the PRC isn’t doing anything for you but beating up your wallet and shoulder.

I’d buy a tikka ctr and be done with it.

ya what he said....tikka x2

 

[Sniperwannabee]

PS if you want to shoot far come to FL in the winter. No mirage. Some days there’s no wind. Temps in the 60s. Flat.

where are we talking about here?

 

[Eurodriver]

Thank you all for the helpful feedback... I really appreciate that. I am considering going down to 6.5 cm but at the same time I like being different and going against the grain. What about 6.5 PRC?? about 30 more cents a round than 6.5 cm for Hornady Match with 250 +/- fps. I have a RCBS reloading kit just havn't set up yet I dont dare dabble into that quite yet.

What is more important? Some notion of being “different” or shooting and learning? If it’s the former, you’re on the wrong site. 6.5cm is a popular cartridge because it’s effective. You aren’t gaining any style points by going with a “unique” caliber, and buying a gun that uses a hard to find, more expensive round won’t make it any easier to make hits at 1,300 yards.

You do you though booboo. Ammo companies have bills to pay too.

 

[Eurodriver]

where are we talking about here?

Tradecraft, VCGHC, Altus... there are probably more.

 

[acudaowner]

you could always design / make your own if you do not mind the time involved you could end up with something really nice and only you would have one .

turning this

into your dream gun. which ever way you decide to go good luck .

 

[Feif64]

i started with a ruger rpr, loved it btw. Got an offer to buy it so i'm in the process of building a 6.5 creed on a impact action with krieger barrel in an mdt acc. Just waiting on my friend to turn my barrel blank.

 

[Jackomason]

I'd start with a entry level gun in 6.5, there are lost of good options but itd get your feet wet. If you still felt like stepping it up to a custom there are plenty of great "production" options out now that are under $2k. Magnums are great but if I could only dump cash into one rig it probably would be one I could shoot alot.

Another idea is to do a long action origin/TL3 and figure out a switch barrel setup. Or just go buy an AXMC and be done with it.

 

[DangerRanger]

You could buy a Bergera, Havak, or Tikka right now and start shooting but they would more than likely end up taking up room in your safe or capital in your wallet after a year or two. Most people aren't ready for it when buying their first precision rifle because they don't know what they really want, but rifle you really want is out there and it's probably not based on a production rifle. For$2K you could build the same rifle on the same stock, an Origin action and a prefit shouldered barrel. It may or may not shoot better than a Bergera but when you decide you don't actually want a 6.5 PRC or the Creed-bore you can buy a different bolt face and adapt the action. Or worst case you could sell it...much easier and with more resale value. In other words, for the same amount of money you could buy into some value.

Buying a used custom off the PX is also a great idea.

Contrary to what was posted above about the ease of lego'ing a bolt gun together in comparison to an AR, it is as easy if not easier if you choose the right action. Rem 700 based triggers install with two pins and a punch. An action drops into a chassis or bedding block based stock with two Allen screws. A shouldered prefit screws into your action until the shoulder hits the action face and then you'll need an action wrench and barrel vise. Tools that are no less common than an AR.

The point is things are not built to a mil spec and they can take fitting. Some actions don’t work with some triggers, some actions that say they are a 700 footprint need fitting in a 700 stock, some prefits have mediocre at best tolerances.

 

[Crews]

I'd buy a used/proven low round count custom off the PX here 10/10 times. Lots of folks pay a premium for a new custom, finger bang it for a hundred rounds, then let their gear whore-ness get the best of them... selling at a substantial loss.

 

[DangerRanger]

Just do a little research to avoid those issues

It’s easier, you just have to do extra work

 

[Harman117]

Buying a lightly used rifle off the PX here is a good idea; so is just about any of the factory options mentioned.

I would take another hard look at getting a Bighorn Origin and a shouldered Pre-fit barrel from a reputable smith.
For $2K that’s what I would do personally. Building from that would mean every part is modular and can be changed later down the road. With the Origin action you can change bolt heads allowing you to fire just about anything from .223 to the short “magnums” like the PRCs. Just change barrel and bolt head.

$825- Short Action Origin (bolt face of your choice initially)

$550- Pre-fit shouldered barrel in caliber of choice. (Smith examples: PVA, Bugholes, etc... You can buy these directly without sending your action anywhere) What’s nice about this is there’s no work on your end except literally screwing the barrel on and applying the appropriate torque!

$350-$400 KRG Bravo chassis or Oryx chassis

$125-$$$ Timney trigger or other

$$ for a magazine or more and a muzzle device if desired.

Whenever you want to change a component out, you can with minimal capital/effort. Want a better stock/chassis? Sell the one you started with and buy a new one. Want a better trigger? Do the same thing.

Want a different caliber? Order a new shouldered prefit barrel ($550-ish) and maybe a new bolt head ($100ish?) if going to a different category of caliber. You can keep switching back and forth with the barrels and bolt heads. It would be a pretty slick setup.

That’s what I’m doing for my next rifle.

 

[Defiance Machine]

You could also look at picking up a BadRock Rifles South Fork, which comes with one of our actions, and then you get the best of both worlds for around that $2K mark. You can get it in just about any of the aforementioned calibers also.

 

[spife7980]

You could also look at picking up a BadRock Rifles South Fork, which comes with one of our actions, and then you get the best of both worlds for around that $2K mark. You can get it in just about any of the aforementioned calibers also.

Are they consistent enough for prefit shouldered barrels? They can still take a remage correct? Or I guess to keep it factory class it would have to go back to y’all for a new barrel?

 

[Defiance Machine]

Are they consistent enough for prefit shouldered barrels? They can still take a remage correct? Or I guess to keep it factory class it would have to go back to y’all for a new barrel?

We never recommend prefit barrels for liability reasons. They are remage. If you're shooting production, you have to send it in to get a barrel from the manufacturer.

 

[Jackomason]

Buying a lightly used rifle off the PX here is a good idea; so is just about any of the factory options mentioned.

I would take another hard look at getting a Bighorn Origin and a shouldered Pre-fit barrel from a reputable smith.
For $2K that’s what I would do personally. Building from that would mean every part is modular and can be changed later down the road. With the Origin action you can change bolt heads allowing you to fire just about anything from .223 to the short “magnums” like the PRCs. Just change barrel and bolt head.

$825- Short Action Origin (bolt face of your choice initially)

$550- Pre-fit shouldered barrel in caliber of choice. (Smith examples: PVA, Bugholes, etc... You can buy these directly without sending your action anywhere) What’s nice about this is there’s no work on your end except literally screwing the barrel on and applying the appropriate torque!

$350-$400 KRG Bravo chassis or Oryx chassis

$125-$$$ Timney trigger or other

$$ for a magazine or more and a muzzle device if desired.

Whenever you want to change a component out, you can with minimal capital/effort. Want a better stock/chassis? Sell the one you started with and buy a new one. Want a better trigger? Do the same thing.

Want a different caliber? Order a new shouldered prefit barrel ($550-ish) and maybe a new bolt head ($100ish?) if going to a different category of caliber. You can keep switching back and forth with the barrels and bolt heads. It would be a pretty slick setup.

That’s what I’m doing for my next rifle.

This^^^

Exactly what I did, I've got a 6.5 setup and a 224 valk set up

 

[chevy_man]

And when you need an action wrench hit up @Defiance Machine

I just used mine today, works perfect and is art in it's own right.

 

[Grouper]

We never recommend prefit barrels for liability reasons. They are remage. If you're shooting production, you have to send it in to get a barrel from the manufacturer.

Hey everyone new guy here.. just starting to get into the long range precision game. I’ve been shooting for over 20 years, 3 year top end expert badge from the Marine Corps, have a bunch of ARs, NFA stuff, yet I know absolutely nothing about long range precision rifles. I have an idea of what I want but then I discovered this site and now I’m reconsidering. I was thinking I want a magnum caliber to be able to shoot out over 1500 yards once I get comfortable at 1000 yards. I was thinking 300 PRC and for a rifle I was looking at the Bergara Premier Ridgeback. Glass would either be a Leupold Mk5HD 7-35x56 or a Razor Gen 2 4.5-27x56... maybe a NightForce ATACR after all the reading on this forum. Right now I will only be shooting steel, I don’t plan to hunt with this rifle. I spend a lot of time for work out in Montana and North Dakota so there’s tons of open land to take advantage of. Some day soon I’d like to participate in amateur matches so I want a rifle that will be a do it all if that’s even possible.

I guess what I’m wondering is if I should even spend $2k on a production rifle? I don’t know any decent gunsmiths so that’s been swaying me away from buying a defiance receiver.

Thanks all!

I would opt for a Remington 700 with a threaded barrel in 6.5 cm then top it off with a 20 moa rail . Then if you plan spending $1500 on optics , bite the bullet and double optics budget. My 6.5 is a pleasure to shoot light recoil and lots of factory load choices.

 

[45.308]

I have been shooting / hunting since I was 8 years old, shot marksman M16A2. I decided to get into longer range precision shooting 15 years ago after my retirement. Not quite the same.

I started with a $400 remmy 700 in 308 with SS 10x. Dumped lots of nuggets into ammo and range time learning, I Gucci up my 700 as skills and knowledge grew. Once I thought I wanted / need a better pop gun, I dropped the nuggets on a build. Still didn't get the build quite right, not wasted nuggets just didn't complete the process and its not quite what I want after more rounds down range and having a re-do is not in my budget.

My Remmy 700 shoots .75 moa, my build that shoots .25 moa. The big difference is, 700 gets very little love, take the build to the range and some shoots, almost everybody wants to know, what are you shooting?

I would buy off the rack, Tikka or 700.

good luck

 

[brianf]

You could buy a Bergera, Havak, or Tikka right now and start shooting but they would more than likely end up taking up room in your safe or capital in your wallet after a year or two. Most people aren't ready for it when buying their first precision rifle because they don't know what they really want, but rifle you really want is out there and it's probably not based on a production rifle. For$2K you could build the same rifle on the same stock, an Origin action and a prefit shouldered barrel. It may or may not shoot better than a Bergera but when you decide you don't actually want a 6.5 PRC or the Creed-bore you can buy a different bolt face and adapt the action. Or worst case you could sell it...much easier and with more resale value. In other words, for the same amount of money you could buy into some value.

Buying a used custom off the PX is also a great idea.

Contrary to what was posted above about the ease of lego'ing a bolt gun together in comparison to an AR, it is as easy if not easier if you choose the right action. Rem 700 based triggers install with two pins and a punch. An action drops into a chassis or bedding block based stock with two Allen screws. A shouldered prefit screws into your action until the shoulder hits the action face and then you'll need an action wrench and barrel vise. Tools that are no less common than an AR.

we’d like to think that...just remember the ARC trigger issues thread that have exploded the last few weeks. ?

 

[Grouper]

I have been shooting / hunting since I was 8 years old, shot marksman M16A2. I decided to get into longer range precision shooting 15 years ago after my retirement. Not quite the same.

I started with a $400 remmy 700 in 308 with SS 10x. Dumped lots of nuggets into ammo and range time learning, I Gucci up my 700 as skills and knowledge grew. Once I thought I wanted / need a better pop gun, I dropped the nuggets on a build. Still didn't get the build quite right, not wasted nuggets just didn't complete the process and its not quite what I want after more rounds down range and having a re-do is not in my budget.

My Remmy 700 shoots .75 moa, my build that shoots .25 moa. The big difference is, 700 gets very little love, take the build to the range and some shoots, almost everybody wants to know, what are you shooting?

I would buy off the rack, Tikka or 700.

good luck

A really good performance trigger made me and my 700 rem a lot better shooter

 

[b6graham]

Problems I've never had. Also don't own an ARC product.

And this is the problem with using the term "custom actions". An Origin, for example, gets credit for the sin of every custom action made that's had a problem because the Origin is also a custom action. Chrome'd out Defiance's get real sticky when they collect grease and dust therefore AIs are smoother than ALL custom actions. It's flawed logic based on loose associations. All brontasauruses are dinosaurs but not all dinosaurs are brontasouruses. It's really not hard to do a modicum of research to figure out which actions are problem free.

And your bighorn is held to a standard that allows prefits just like AIs and any custom action worth owning. We could send eachother barrels and have no issue. Using liability as an excuse for not having precise machining? Eh. Makes me chuckle.

 

[tracktrash]

I ended up buying a Bergara HMR Pro in 6.5 PRC today, it was on sale at $1,499. I contemplated it for a week after seeing it. I know a lot of you suggested going the CM route but I figured 6.5 PRC would be a good all around gun for me (better than going to the 300 PRC route which I originally wanted to do). I hope she shoots good. Afraid it'll be another month before I put some glass on the rifle. Meanwhile I will be stocking up on some 147 ELD match rounds here and there.

I have a lot of learning to do with bolt action guns... Like installing a muzzle brake for one of my suppressors. Seems like the thing to do is to get a barrel clamp for a vise and torque wrench it on? I've installed many muzzle devices on AR15s where you use an extension rod to lock into the chamber lugs but man it makes me nervous clamping onto a barrel and torquing down on a muzzle device.

 

[jbailey]

sounds good buddy! That will be a good hunter for you.
best of luck w/ the new rig. Get good glass - you can use a good optic for 10yrs+ and enjoy it every look thru. Over 10 years, the cost difference between an high end optic and a low end optic is nothing and the performance difference is massively in favor of the good glass.

 

[hollowoutadime]

I use Rocksett to keep the brakes on my barrels. I have a barrel vise but don't need it to tighten the brake, The t-bacs shoulder up and stop when they are home. I'm older, 50 something, so I spend a lot on good glass. Small targets at distance? If I can't easily see it, I can't reasonably expect to hit it.

The NRA offers a basic reloading course (it's a couple nights), Also Hornady does them as well. Consider a Magnetospeed V3 (or similar) if you reload, it will help explain why bullets group as they do. Always something new to learn.

 

[Texaslongshot]

Congrats on the purchase. I think you will be extremely happy with the 6.5 PRC. Did you decide on glass?

 

[Mporche]

I went with a begara hmr for my first precision rifle.I shot better than I could at the time and after three years I used the action for my custom build.

 

[Mporche]

I ended up buying a Bergara HMR Pro in 6.5 PRC today, it was on sale at $1,499. I contemplated it for a week after seeing it. I know a lot of you suggested going the CM route but I figured 6.5 PRC would be a good all around gun for me (better than going to the 300 PRC route which I originally wanted to do). I hope she shoots good. Afraid it'll be another month before I put some glass on the rifle. Meanwhile I will be stocking up on some 147 ELD match rounds here and there.

I have a lot of learning to do with bolt action guns... Like installing a muzzle brake for one of my suppressors. Seems like the thing to do is to get a barrel clamp for a vise and torque wrench it on? I've installed many muzzle devices on AR15s where you use an extension rod to lock into the chamber lugs but man it makes me nervous clamping onto a barrel and torquing down on a muzzle device.

Get a Apa little bastard gen 2.

 

[BrentlyWhite]

Bought a cheesy Savage 10 FCP-SR in 6.5 CM with a 24" fluted barrel. Started adding goodies/bolt on stuff as I figured it out - MDT LSS-XLGen2 chassis, Atlas Bipod, XLR Extreme buttstock, Ergo Suregrip, blah, blah, blah.


View attachment 7157488


Base Rifle above and it shot sub MOA right out of the box with a $240 Vortex Crossfire scope. Then it went here:

View attachment 7157491

With hand loads I'm still developing it'll shoot sub .5 MOA groups in the hands of an amateur. I have shot very expensive custom and built guns and they are *FaNtAsTiC!* but I have roughly 2K invested in this gun and even my nephew and brother who own guns costing 2X - 3X what this gun costs shoot my hot rod Savage *better* than they shoot their super duper rifles. I shoot their guns better than them but love my hot rod Savage.

Savage has limitations but my point is that I'd be hard pressed to recommend a person spend shit loads on a custom built gun before he has thousands of round under his belt downrange. start at the bottom and work up unless you are made of money and it is no object.

VooDoo

Here is my 110 now. So far .5 MOA with factory ammo. Need to get home with it so I can reload.

 

[Vodoun daVinci]

Here's my Savage 10 6.5CM in MDT's LSS-XLGen2 chassis with XLR Extreme Buttstock, Area 419 brake, Atlas Bipod, Vortex Precision Matched rings, Athlon Argos BTR 10-40X56 scope etc:

Worked up my preferred handloads this season/Summer and while I'm still getting fliers that *really* have me frustrated ('cause it's me not the gun) the rifle is capable of sub MOA all day.

I thought I'd start with this rifle and move along but when I burn this barrel out I'll re barrel it and keep going. If I was interested in resale or competing I might look elsewhere but for what I'm doing and the level I'm doing it at I am completely happy with my Savage. Never had an ejection problem but I'm running the MDT AICS magazine and I have never had an extraction issue and it's running stock springs/ejector.

VooDoo

 

[tracktrash]

Congrats on the purchase. I think you will be extremely happy with the 6.5 PRC. Did you decide on glass?

I decided on either the Leupold Mark5HD 5-25 or the Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27. I want to compare them in person. So far I've checked out the Mark5 but in the non-illuminated TMR reticle which has an open center.. not too big of a fan of that.

Apa little bastard gen 2.

I have to go with a silencerco muzzle brake for the suppressor... or I could just direct thread.. Not sure which would be better.

 

[SonicBurlap]

For the glass you were on the right track with the Vortex Razor Gen II, or the NightForce ATACR both will serve you well. If you are looking for a brake that has proven itself on an HMR I can recommend the Patriot Valley Arms "Jet Blast" which I've had on mine for over a year. I just recently bought another one for a Bighorn Arms TL3 custom build with a pre-fit barrel.