- Thread starter Mike Ryan
- Start date
“job security”
I have them swear on the stand as a witness
So....you trust...everyone?
Often I'll ask the customer if they need the scope set, but usually I return it and everything is finger tight. "You will need to boresight and set your own eye relief. The torque settings are in the box with the rings / scope, I can write it down on your invoice if you need".
It's too troublesome to set it, because then it's set to my eye relief, which is goofy. Great for me, Akward for others.
I do however set it up for some people if they are new to it and don't have the tools. I explain it will need to be tweaked, and then go thru parallax, diopter, etc..
I like to use a big heavy hammer and punch and stake all of my screws. If your optic can’t handle it, stop being poor and buy a good optic.
Oh Christ.
And I thought we had reached peak-dumbass at “take the whole thing apart before every comp”.
And I thought we had reached peak-dumbass at “take the whole thing apart before every comp”.
Stop being a pussy and tig the screws to the mount.
That's what real men do.
That's impossible, everyone knows you can't TIG a steel screw to an aluminum ring!
You gotta spin the screws with the impact gun fast enough to stir weld them.
You gotta spin the screws with the impact gun fast enough to stir weld them.
Chemcrete and dynabolts..... you guys need to start getting serious.
Let's just turn the whole thread into a shit stain....I'm getting sick of legitimate questions and information being turned into a shit fest.
Do we have nothing better to do at SH than turn every thread where we can help someone into a shit fest? Fuck me....I gotta find a better place to hang.
VooDoo
Do we have nothing better to do at SH than turn every thread where we can help someone into a shit fest? Fuck me....I gotta find a better place to hang.
VooDoo
We helped! Now we are waiting to hear what happens next weekend when the range dries out. And we are arguing about how to torque scope ring screws while we wait. What’s the problem?
I was doing to suggest finding a crossroad somewhere out west you never know Robert Johnson could not play the guitar not a lick till he made a deal maybe you could try the same thing you can do it . Best of luck forever is a long time remember to add unlimited ammo ro the deal .
Last edited:
- Nov 3, 2010
- 8,605
- 17,396
So I guess my suggestion of a “pin and weld” type finish is unwanted at this point
Maybe just fill the screw holes with silver solder??
Maybe just fill the screw holes with silver solder??
That could work, perhaps try some jb-weld or bedding compound ? Once the scope is bedded into the rings, you can have an issue ever again I'd expect.
Does anyone disassemble and reassemble their optics before a match? You know, to make sure they are torqued properly?
Every
Single
Time
I also re-purge my nitrogen/argon before every match...just in case
Preparing for a match is a 2 week ordeal.Every
Single
Time
I also re-purge my nitrogen/argon before every match...just in case
Have to send my powder scales and calipers away for calibration.
Completely strip rifle, scope, bipod and tripod to individual components, inspect and re-assemble.
Strip my truck engine down to check ring gap before I drive more than 100miles, more than 200miles I check big end and main bearing clearances.
If I'm flying somewhere, phone the airline and make sure to only fly on a plane that's just come out of a heavy maintenance check.
Just the things you do to know everything is right.
Nothing a little JB weld mixed with slight retardation won't fix!
Water soak has always removed rockset for me. For Godsake, don't apply heat. It's designed to take that.
I had a buddy who had the same issue. We couldn’t get that thing to zero no matter why we tried with the scope. He took it to a gunsmith and it ended up being a bent barrel.
Do you hand loaded your own bullets, if so sound like a hot load going on. But on the scope I wouldn’t be surprised if it is the vortex I got 2 vipers that wouldn’t hold zero. But one thing about vortex they have awesome warranty and replacement program!
This is worrisome. Is it a low rings scope mount interfering with ejection, or do you have a much graver issue such as a broken receiver?
One other thing to check is the claw extractor. A sheared rim segment could give you the same result. Enough engagement to extract, not enough to flip clear.
Check the rail. Sounds nuts but that happened on my 30.06 Springfield. Scope good, rings good. I was tapping the Scope with a plastic mallet/hammer and just by chance saw the rail move. One set screw broken in the receiver. DAMN!!! Badger rail and top of the line match rings and Scope. Turned out to be the most accurate 30.06 I ever had.
I recently had the same problem on a 308. My scope base had two loose screws and once tighten my group size was reduced in half. If your scope base is propertly tighten try a different scope or put that one on a different gun. This will eliminate two variables to your problem. Good luck
Re-cut the crown on the barrel. Switch to Smith Vortex Flash Suppressor true the action, glass bed the action float the barrel. Use Badger Ordnance rings and base. Look at GAPrecision for a list of useful services.
Also check your loads. At 100 yards, you should use large rifleprimers, not magnum primers. The loss of 200’/second is insignificant versus the benefits derived from less felt recoil
Good point. I've got some spare primer sleeves laying around you may want to try. It's a small ring, like a reloading bushing. Push that into your primer pocket, which then converts it to small primer.
Small primer 300wm. Helps run higher pressure and more velo.
Small primer 300wm. Helps run higher pressure and more velo.
I'd like to add my proverbial two cents. I'm assuming there aren't any iron sights on the rifle. My rationale for asking this is to break the issues down to the most their most basic components of marksmanship and remove the scope from the issue. My comment is regarding the weight of the rounds and the twist rate of the rifle. Are you using a heavy enough round for the twist rate? I was at the range one day, and the fellow shooting next to me was cussing and fuming because he wasn't able to get on paper. I asked him what his twist rate on his AR! He was using 55gr bullets with a 1:7 twist rate. Once he bumped up to 62gr, he got on paper. I would consider this! Unless I missed something, I haven't heard this mentioned in the posts. If I missed this, I apologize and will sign off. Out here!
Overstabilisation isn’t a thing.
Like I said, it was just “my two cents.” trying to think outside the box. Brian Litz evidently thought it was worth an entry:
bulletin.accurateshooter.com
Over-Stabilization of Bullets — Why Is Too Much Spin a Problem? « Daily Bulletin
On the Applied Ballistics Facebook page, Ballistician Bryan Litz regularly offers a Tuesday Trivia question about ballistics. Today's brain-teaser is a true/false question about bullet stabilization. On shooting forums you often find heated arguments about over-stabilization. Bryan wants readers...
Brian Litz added his “two cents.” He agrees with you Powder_Burns, but doesn't say that over-stabilization “isn't a thing.” It certainly exists. Your statement is a rather blanketed statement.
I just had same problem. New rifle with scope base mounted by factory shot 200 rounds spot on accuracy then went south. I was using same reloads etc. found out scope base screws were loose. Removed scope and base, cleaned screws and applied BLUE loctite, torqued to spec, left overnight and all is great
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