I am changing out the recoil lug on a Savage 10 to a larger .300 machined recoil lug. I know on a Remington you need to set the shoulder back. With the Savage set up the way it is with the bolt nut, can I just head space it and go or will this still require the shoulder to be set back for a Savage as well?
Gunsmithing Changing recoil lug on Savage/setting shoulder bck
- Thread starter RTO
- Start date
Re: Changing recoil lug on Savage/setting shoulder bck
Just screw the barrel in farther. There is no shoulder to set back.
Just screw the barrel in farther. There is no shoulder to set back.
Re: Changing recoil lug on Savage/setting shoulder bck
Thats what I thought, I was just looking around and saw on another site that someone said it wouldnt work. I wanted to make sure since I had to Full Length resize my brass from the same chamber that I had been only neck sizing to get them to chamber so I just wanted to make sure that I wasnt missing something.
Thats what I thought, I was just looking around and saw on another site that someone said it wouldnt work. I wanted to make sure since I had to Full Length resize my brass from the same chamber that I had been only neck sizing to get them to chamber so I just wanted to make sure that I wasnt missing something.
Re: Changing recoil lug on Savage/setting shoulder bck
Youll just end up with the barrel nut out slightly farther than it was.
There is no shoulder to set back on a savage.
I just did the same with mine. I made several dummy cases at .001" increments when I was finding how far to bump my shoulders. I made a 2.625, .626, .627, .628, .629 (measured with hornady comparator). Before I removed the barrel the 628 was the longest I could chamber, but you could definitely feel it dragging. The 627 was easy, but could still feel it. The 626 the bolt would drop with little to no force, and could not feel a bit of drag. So I bumped my shoulders to 2.625.
I had two forster headspace gages, a no-go and a field. Since I have no use for a field gage, I chucked it up in the lathe and turned .007" of the base to make it 2.626" measured with the same comparator as above.
I used this gage when re-assembling the bbl action, dropped it in the chamber, tightened the barrel down onto it hand tight, and cranked the barrel nut down to 35lbs.
After assembly the dummy cases I made all acted the exact same way as before. So Im pretty sure its setup as good as its going to get. Gotta love Savage in this respect, any dummy with a wrench and some gages can rebarrel one quite easily.
Also, the no-go gage would cam about 20% before and after the procedure.
While it was apart I made a jig for facing off the receiver (thanks to Fred at sharpshootersupply for explaining to me how to make the jig). I ended up turning probably .007-.010" off the face in order to make it true. Let me know if you have the ability to do this and Ill send you some specs and pics of the jig, its quite simple.
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Youll just end up with the barrel nut out slightly farther than it was.
There is no shoulder to set back on a savage.
I just did the same with mine. I made several dummy cases at .001" increments when I was finding how far to bump my shoulders. I made a 2.625, .626, .627, .628, .629 (measured with hornady comparator). Before I removed the barrel the 628 was the longest I could chamber, but you could definitely feel it dragging. The 627 was easy, but could still feel it. The 626 the bolt would drop with little to no force, and could not feel a bit of drag. So I bumped my shoulders to 2.625.
I had two forster headspace gages, a no-go and a field. Since I have no use for a field gage, I chucked it up in the lathe and turned .007" of the base to make it 2.626" measured with the same comparator as above.
I used this gage when re-assembling the bbl action, dropped it in the chamber, tightened the barrel down onto it hand tight, and cranked the barrel nut down to 35lbs.
After assembly the dummy cases I made all acted the exact same way as before. So Im pretty sure its setup as good as its going to get. Gotta love Savage in this respect, any dummy with a wrench and some gages can rebarrel one quite easily.
Also, the no-go gage would cam about 20% before and after the procedure.
While it was apart I made a jig for facing off the receiver (thanks to Fred at sharpshootersupply for explaining to me how to make the jig). I ended up turning probably .007-.010" off the face in order to make it true. Let me know if you have the ability to do this and Ill send you some specs and pics of the jig, its quite simple.
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Re: Changing recoil lug on Savage/setting shoulder bck
Just a quick question, if you are going to face a savage action, doesn't this only make sense if you have a precision ground recoil lug and then also true the face of the barrel nut? If that is true, how do you indicate the barrel nut in order to true it?
Thanks
Dave
Just a quick question, if you are going to face a savage action, doesn't this only make sense if you have a precision ground recoil lug and then also true the face of the barrel nut? If that is true, how do you indicate the barrel nut in order to true it?
Thanks
Dave
Re: Changing recoil lug on Savage/setting shoulder bck
According to Fred, there is no need to worry about the barrel nut. He explained it that the operation Savage uses to manufacture the nut, there is no way it could be off. Just run the face of it on a stone and get all the burrs off and you are good to go.
And correct, the face of the action should be trued with the threads and lug face. Savage cuts the threads and lug face in one operation, so they are normally very perpendicular.
I think I may try making the fixture PTG sells for lapping the lug face. It looks simple enough to do once you face off the action. Just have a threaded plug with a shoulder that will stop on the action face, then a rotating mandrel inside the plug with a large flat face to put some lapping compound on, then just put the mandrel in a drill and lap away.
Just not sure if I can make it square enough on the equipment I have, may be easier just to buy it from PTG.
I take that back, looking at it again, the tool PTG sells is for lapping the bolt face, not the lug face.
According to Fred, there is no need to worry about the barrel nut. He explained it that the operation Savage uses to manufacture the nut, there is no way it could be off. Just run the face of it on a stone and get all the burrs off and you are good to go.
And correct, the face of the action should be trued with the threads and lug face. Savage cuts the threads and lug face in one operation, so they are normally very perpendicular.
I think I may try making the fixture PTG sells for lapping the lug face. It looks simple enough to do once you face off the action. Just have a threaded plug with a shoulder that will stop on the action face, then a rotating mandrel inside the plug with a large flat face to put some lapping compound on, then just put the mandrel in a drill and lap away.
Just not sure if I can make it square enough on the equipment I have, may be easier just to buy it from PTG.
I take that back, looking at it again, the tool PTG sells is for lapping the bolt face, not the lug face.
