Claro Walnut Hunting Rifle

Jig Stick

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 27, 2010
1,436
5
45
Pittsburgh PA
I just got my action and barrel work finished. I have a very nice claro walnut blank that will be hand carved in my attempt to come out with a very classic looking american hunting rifle. I am having some difficulty finding pictures of hand carved hunting rifles, and the nomenclature regarding the different styles of wood stocks. Can anybody give me some info regarding what they would consider classic americana in regards to hunting rifles....ie monte carlo style vs weatherby mark V style vs checkering vs ebony tips etc.....? I would appreciate it greatly.
 
I'm not sure what you mean when you say hand carved "classic American hunting rifle." If you mean decorative carving such as a floral pattern this would not be classic "American" but rather German or Austrian. If carved means custom stocked than there are features that are classic American. Everybody has a different view of the term classic but in general it would be a high flat comb, moderately open pistol grip, small to medium sized forearm and checkered grip and forearm. Go to GUNSAMERICA and search for Dakota Firearms. The bolt guns termed Classic generally have stocks in the classic American style. Additional refinement might include Ebony forearm tip, skeleton buttplate, skeleton grip cap, shadow line cheekpiece, high LPI checkering with fleur-de-lis pattern, inletted sling mounts, etc.

You probably already know that the grain in the wrist needs to be straight but it bears repeating. There are lots of different walnuts and though Claro can have gorgeous grain it is not the ideal wood for high LPI checkering as it is somewhat brittle. Stocking, at it's best, is an art form and the cost is commensurate. A little more info., regarding what you are trying to accomplish, would help in providing suggestions.
 
One thing I would STRONGLY encourage you to look at is the rake angle of the cheekpiece from the buttpad to the grip. From the buttpad to the grip it needs to, at a minimum, be on axis with the barrel bore and it should ideally fall away from the barrel bore (higher in the back than the front) because under recoil this will keep the rifle from driving the cheekpiece like a wedge into the shooter's cheekbones.

Best of luck with your project, please keep us posted and include pictures whenever possible!