Thanks for the tip (in spite of the SH sewing circle heckling
). I think I will give one a go then. I am a tool person by nature so I don’t need much of an excuse to get into a new one.....- Thread starter Jglitch
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). I think I will give one a go then. I am a tool person by nature so I don’t need much of an excuse to get into a new one.....
Damn, I have hung a field expedient plumb-bob (rock on string) but that is a great idea!
Easily. The bubble level that’s mounted to your rifle/mount that you use while shooting (if you use one at all) is the only one that matters for “leveling your scope.”
Leveling the scope to the pic rail, to whatever else, doesn’t matter. Can’t set eye relief with the gizmo. Reticle plumb to gravity when you pull the trigger, that’s what matters. So, yeah, it’s pointless to me. $300 to satisfy some misguided OCD is all it does, unless maybe you had to mount 1000 optics in the same way for 1000 of the same rifle in an armor’s setting.
When I bought bought mine forever ago, it was about $150. And just how do you think you get that scope-mounted bubble level to be level? Your scope has to be dead-nuts level along with that level, to ensure that your crosshairs are as close to 100% level as possible, or else you will start having issues the further out you go. Your logic is flawed, unless you don't plan on shooting beyond 200 yards. If you're not a complete idiot and a complete noob, then you have a general idea of where your scope needs to sit for your proper eye relief. This device sets reticle plumb to gravity. Only super-shitty scopes are the reticles not plumb to level with the optic's turrets.
Well, in my life, I've mounted thousands of scopes, most of which when I worked at a small local gun store doing professional work being trained by professionals. So, I know WTF I'm doing. You don't have to think it's worth the money, but you also probably have never used one, either... You probably think your half-empty milk jug at 50 yards is a scientific guarantee, as well.
My point being, it works. Unless you own one, and have used one, don't knock it until you've tried it. Speak from experience, not from bullshit you read on the interwebz.
When I bought bought mine forever ago, it was about $150. And just how do you think you get that scope-mounted bubble level to be level? Your scope has to be dead-nuts level along with that level, to ensure that your crosshairs are as close to 100% level as possible, or else you will start having issues the further out you go. Your logic is flawed, unless you don't plan on shooting beyond 200 yards. If you're not a complete idiot and a complete noob, then you have a general idea of where your scope needs to sit for your proper eye relief. This device sets reticle plumb to gravity. Only super-shitty scopes are the reticles not plumb to level with the optic's turrets.
Well, in my life, I've mounted thousands of scopes, most of which when I worked at a small local gun store doing professional work being trained by professionals. So, I know WTF I'm doing. You don't have to think it's worth the money, but you also probably have never used one, either... You probably think your half-empty milk jug at 50 yards is a scientific guarantee, as well.
My point being, it works. Unless you own one, and have used one, don't knock it until you've tried it. Speak from experience, not from bullshit you read on the interwebz.
1) Your scope has to be dead-nuts level along with that level…
Scope mounted bubble level doesn’t need to be leveled to anything other than the reticle. You can simply do that by lining the reticle up with a reference to gravity and then attaching the level. Don’t need any special device to do that.
2) … to ensure that your crosshairs are as close to 100% level as possible, or else you will start having issues the further out you go.
Reticle level with gravity when you pull the trigger. That’s all that matters.
3) Your logic is flawed, unless you don't plan on shooting beyond 200 yards.
It’s simple trig, easily verifiable. If I mounted a scope 90* off the side of the rifle and fire with the reticle plumb to gravity, the only thing to account for is the obvious L or R offset in your zero, which is no different than rotating the scope 90* and shooting with the rifle sideways, other than the fact is might behoove you to be aware of a 2.15” offset rather than one that’s like .11” or less for 3 degrees or less of rotation. Rotating the scope clockwise 3* to yield a .11” offset, and presuming you zeroed perfectly at 100y, cancels out something in the neighborhood of a whopping 1” of spin drift at 1k yards. You’d have to call wind to one tenth of a mph to shoot inside that difference. It’s inconsequential.
4) This device sets reticle plumb to gravity.
Plumbing the reticle to the bubble level reference of the device or whatever else which isn’t the one you’re consulting while shooting is wholly irrelevant.
5) So, I know WTF I'm doing. You don't have to think it's worth the money, but you also probably have never used one, either... You probably think your half-empty milk jug at 50 yards is a scientific guarantee, as well.
Sounds like you’re just doing what you’ve always done without really thinking about it.
6) Speak from experience, not from bullshit you read on the interwebz.
lol
After all these messages, did the OP really say he was buying the Aero mount? I love Aero's stuff and all of my AR's are built using their parts, but that mount will never enter my life again. Have fun spending an hour trying to guess the left cant on the scope that will level when you tighten down those bottom screws. Literally any other ring setup at least gives you the ability to tighten the opposite side to even things out. My suggestion is start at almost -1.5 degrees on the scope because that's about how much it moves when you torque the screws down.
I've put two sets of ARC rings on my rifles and I'll never go back to anything else. simply level the scope and it never moves during the tightening process. Done in 30 seconds.
I've put two sets of ARC rings on my rifles and I'll never go back to anything else. simply level the scope and it never moves during the tightening process. Done in 30 seconds.
I'm getting two mounts the aero I was going to get anyways for my ar 10 I figure it might work on the cross? Next week I'm picking up larue mounts I'm not too worried of how difficult it will be to get it level between the 30 different methods people have up on here. If it doesn't I got another part to trade with. I'm about to pick up 200 rounds of 6.5 creedmoor in bulk for a good price so I needed to save money this last weekend, hence not going straight for the larue. Nowadays I live paycheck to paycheck so I'm in between budgeting and getting what I want. Unless any of you fine folks would like to buy some lightly used benchmades as I'm cutting down on that collection in favor of guns lol.
If you want a crappy light weight mount, get the Aero. It's one of their worst engineered products with a history of issues. It's light weight by sacrificing weight in some of the wrong places (rings). It's subject to cracking if over tightened. It will spin the scope when tightening. It's OK for calibers starting with .22 but not for harder recoiling rounds.
It is not a good all purpose mount for usage on multiple rifles. It's for low recoiling AR shooters who are chasing lowest weight.
Some use it and swear by it and others will never touch it again.
I find it's value best summarized by a post I read on arf.com a while ago:
"I had issues with my scope moving with the Aero mount. But that went away when I moved the scope with a turret flush against a ring. But I switched mounts soon after. "
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If budget is the issue (which you should have said in the first place) then you would be better off with a UTG mount.
