Rifle Scopes Designing a new reticle need input

300WSM

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This will be an MOA reticle and I am designing it for 22x USO scopes. If it's really liked I'm sure it could be done for 17x 10x etc.

I am starting off with a pcmoa reticle because that is the thinnest lines and for me anyway seems like the most usable spacing and line thickness.

The goal when I started photoshopping was to eliminate stuff that wasn't used and take it out of the picture. I mean that is the whole idea with glass anyway right? To see the picture and not a bunch of extra lines.

So here is what we started out with... This wast he first time I used a camera with a scope so forgive the bad pics.

pcmoa at 150yds at 22x. http://i48.tinypic.com/98zsc2.jpg

-took out the top verticle line down to 10moa
-took the side lines down to 15moa L R
-reduced the size of the #s by 40%.
- added in long lines ever 5moa for easier counting
-added 1 moa hash marks on top verticl and side windage and down to 30moa down verticle...this might be over kill here.

http://i47.tinypic.com/24xdnkl.jpg 150yds 22x

The following pictures are comparisons at various distances with and with out the changes. Not all changes are included like the 5moa longer lines for easier counting, smaller numbers...would of taken forever. Note: I've always left in the down verticle line.


http://i50.tinypic.com/2n8cz8w.jpg 5x at distance.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2vah3kn.jpg 5x at distance with out lines

http://i48.tinypic.com/2ed1uzs.jpg 425yds

http://i49.tinypic.com/kezxpy.jpg 425 no lines - hard to see with the dark back drop -- see what 11x looks like when I get done.

http://i47.tinypic.com/xmqwe1.jpg 150yd

http://i49.tinypic.com/f2vtzp.jpg 150yds no lines

11x

http://i48.tinypic.com/qz2f7d.jpg 150yd

http://i50.tinypic.com/2viqebq.jpg 150 no lines


http://i46.tinypic.com/21dly8m.jpg 425yds

http://i50.tinypic.com/2mh78ko.jpg 425 no lines

http://i47.tinypic.com/1z6bew4.jpg 22x 150yd with only side lines


let me know what you think and any suggestions/ideas to add. Thanks.

 

doc76251

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

Looks like an MOA GAP
laugh.gif


The first question I ask when designing a reticle is "What's it for?"

The next is "What does it look like on low power, can I still use it?"

Reticle design is a bit more than photo shopping an existing picture. There is a WHOLE LOT of math involved once you get the reticle dimensions vs FOV.

Hint: Work with a single unit of measure (in this case MOA) when designing line thickness and such

Shoot me a line on my USO email if you'd like, I can probably shorten the learning curve a bit.

Cheers,

Doc
 

300WSM

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

I can't recall ever using more then 10moa of wind. So I went with 15. But ya guys think 20 would be better?

The line thickness, measurements etc ..everything would be based off the pcmoa reticle.

I think at low power the down verticle line and numbers walk you up to the center with a dark background but those side lines at 425 seem to help the eye even more. But I see no reason for the top verticle ...for sure. But on the other hand it sure is nice not to look at those side lines at higher power.
 

KNIGHT11B4

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

I wasnt thinking of using more than 10moa of wind. But when wind combined with a moving target, it could be useful.

The main reason I suggested it was for ranging, determining target speed, and finding distance between objects. I may be way off from what others think, but I would find it useful.
 

300WSM

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

excellent point. Might not be a bad idea! also might help locate the center of the reticle easier with out the need of the fully extended lines to the sides.
 

300WSM

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

also thinking of putting in a xmas tree just haven't figured out where to put the dots and crosses yet. any input appreciated
 

KNIGHT11B4

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

I love the xmas tree feature, but I hate how cluttered it makes the optic.

You could try starting the tree at 30moa below center and make it a wide angled tree. You would still have 30moa of uncluttered verticle hold.

Its a hard combo to balance but when you get it to work out, it makes for a awesome reticle.

What we really need is for some "Reticle Jedi" to chime in here and point out how retard I am and give us some good ideas, haha.
 

doc76251

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

You might consider looking at some ballistics charts when trying to find the locations for your wind/mover hash marks.

How fast does a man walk? (Ans: about 3mph average), What is your 10mph wind hold?, at various hold distances.

What does that subtend to?

How does that relate to various calibers and round performance?

I have considered a "boat wake" pattern so that wind/lead marks are more and more often in an arrow head pattern the further down the hold you go and get fewer to the center. Having a "hollowed out Christmas tree" would also give you added benefits at low power.

"Dream you can. Research you must"
grin.gif


Cheers,

Doc
 

300WSM

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

couple reticles I came up with so far...

This first one needs a little more work. Like hash marks ever 2moa out on the windage...I started on the very first line. But you get the idea.

Main reticle on both has small hash marks on the main cross hair at 1, 3 , 7, 9, 11, 13, 17, 19

medium hash marks which are 2moa wide (top is 1moa high bottom is 1moa low) at 2 4 6 8 12 14 16 18

Large hash marks are 2moa above the main line and 2moa below main line so a 4moa line. They are at 5 10 15 20

http://i47.tinypic.com/2motc78.jpg larger pic.

2motc78.jpg




This next one was tedious to get the + +'s lined up so I just did one row and copied. You'll have to your imagination a little.

Anyway on this one the it goes + + at 2 and 4moa . at 5moa, + + at 6 and 8 moa then X at 10moa then + + at 12 14 and . at 15.

larger pic

http://i49.tinypic.com/2dr86rt.jpg

2dr86rt.jpg
 

300WSM

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Re: Designing a new reticle need input

The X's @ 10moa would be thinner in the real thing. Not so much like a letter just at tilted +