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Diesel DPF Filters - Diesel Particulate Filters

The engine needs to get up to operating temperature and stay there for enough time to do a regen while driving.
This is what happens to the wife's 2018 Diesel Chevy Equinox.
It has to be run @ highway speeds often to regen / clean the soot out of the DPF.
Wife mostly drives it short trips around town, worst possible use for the Diesel.
Also, be prepared for budget hits, Diesel emissions repairs out of warranty are $$$.
Equinox recently needed a DEF sensor, $1k.
 
This summer I traded my 2018 chevy 2500Hd in for a 2024 gmc 2500 hd. The 2018 had 150,000 miles on it with no problems. I live in northern North Dakota and had no problems with the def in winter. It would start not plugged in at -28. It was an emergency I always plugged it in. The 2024 has more power and is easier on def. I really like it. I did put a small lift and a little bigger tires on this one though so my fuel mileage isn’t quite as good.
 
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This is what happens to the wife's 2018 Diesel Chevy Equinox.
It has to be run @ highway speeds often to regen / clean the soot out of the DPF.
Wife mostly drives it short trips around town, worst possible use for the Diesel.
Also, be prepared for budget hits, Diesel emissions repairs out of warranty are $$$.
Equinox recently needed a DEF sensor, $1k.

Yeah, that's a horrible application for a diesel, especially with emmisions. I don't know what the automotive side of parts cost but one Peterbilt we had problems with cost $14k in parts to fix it. It wouldn't have been so bad but the boss wouldn't let me fix it right the first time due to cost. He decided to let half a dozen dealerships throw parts at it over the course of 6-8 months instead of listening to me. Each visit was $1500 plus and the check engine light would come on within 4-6 hours for the same issue.

Parts availability is the next issue in today's world. It's bad enough that parts quality sucks but replacing parts that are bad out of the box makes it worse.
 
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This is what happens to the wife's 2018 Diesel Chevy Equinox.
It has to be run @ highway speeds often to regen / clean the soot out of the DPF.
Wife mostly drives it short trips around town, worst possible use for the Diesel.
Also, be prepared for budget hits, Diesel emissions repairs out of warranty are $$$.
Equinox recently needed a DEF sensor, $1k.


It is for USA diesels. Not everywhere else without an EPA. I noticed on a trip to Ireland that a large percentage of passenger cars are diesel. Of course they don't have all of our BS EPA requirements that I could tell. Amazingly enough a deleted or pre new emmissions standards diesel has zero of these issues, use less fuel and last longer.
 
Amazingly enough a deleted or pre new emmissions standards diesel has zero of these issues, use less fuel and last longer.
And it's for this reason I went back to a 6.0 powerstroke. Flame away.

I'm familiar with them. Work on it myself. My second one actually. First one was a CCLB 4x4 single wheel one ton with a zf6 manual. Truck was turned up to 650hp. Put 200k on it driving it like it was a mustang. Traded it on a 2016 6.7 single wheel one ton. Mistake. Got tired of the payment and that doggy stock truck feel, sold it, paid cash for another 6.0

Studded/rebuilt it myself and drive the crap out of it. This one is an auto though so a trans is in my future I'm sure.
 
It is for USA diesels. Not everywhere else without an EPA. I noticed on a trip to Ireland that a large percentage of passenger cars are diesel. Of course they don't have all of our BS EPA requirements that I could tell. Amazingly enough a deleted or pre new emmissions standards diesel has zero of these issues, use less fuel and last longer.
Euro 6 (2014) and newer emissions requirements are at the least no less stringent than the EPA requirements. DPFs have been required since 2010 (if I recall correctly). Euro 6 pretty much everything diesel runs DEF.
 
And it's for this reason I went back to a 6.0 powerstroke. Flame away.

I'm familiar with them. Work on it myself. My second one actually. First one was a CCLB 4x4 single wheel one ton with a zf6 manual. Truck was turned up to 650hp. Put 200k on it driving it like it was a mustang. Traded it on a 2016 6.7 single wheel one ton. Mistake. Got tired of the payment and that doggy stock truck feel, sold it, paid cash for another 6.0

Studded/rebuilt it myself and drive the crap out of it. This one is an auto though so a trans is in my future I'm sure.
They aren’t bad if you can keep the heads from lifting, which the studs take care of. Sounds like you figured out.

5R110 wont take turned up power for very long especially if you tow heavy with it.
 
Op, tremor package f250 and be done with it. F the diesel haters. Although I will say, godzilla has my attention. Whipple makes some pretty wild bolt ons for that motor.

Probably not many cleetus McFarland fans in here but they twin turbo'd a godzilla and put it in a fox body mustang and beat on it for a while before it popped. Pretty impressive. Even after the rebuild, it's still running the stock plastic intake manifold.

My crowd is ranchers and rigwelders and people that use their trucks for a living and there's a lot of 6.7's in the mix. Trucks that see a lot of time towards the upper end of their gvwr. Some have quite a few miles on them, trucks from 2011-12 all the way to current year model. I think my 6.7 was the most problematic of the bunch. It wouldn't quit leaking oil (just seeping) and I had a/c issues once. I did have an injector issue one time that was fixed under warranty with a reflash. I will say, I miss my 6.7L.
 
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7.8's with, but they did put piston and rods in it to get there. Broke stock rods in the 8's but it was a tuning issue, boost creep, on small injectors.

 
And it's for this reason I went back to a 6.0 powerstroke. Flame away.

I'm familiar with them. Work on it myself. My second one actually. First one was a CCLB 4x4 single wheel one ton with a zf6 manual. Truck was turned up to 650hp. Put 200k on it driving it like it was a mustang. Traded it on a 2016 6.7 single wheel one ton. Mistake. Got tired of the payment and that doggy stock truck feel, sold it, paid cash for another 6.0

Studded/rebuilt it myself and drive the crap out of it. This one is an auto though so a trans is in my future I'm sure.
6.0 studded and "fixed" has proven to be a very good motor. My local diesel shop owner has 2 as his personal vehicles. He loves them.
 
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I am looking for a 1999 to 2003 7.3PSD with low miles right now, I know them, can work on them, very simple machine. One on eBay with 78K miles and they bid it up crazy. DPF is a joke.
 
I am looking for a 1999 to 2003 7.3PSD with low miles right now, I know them, can work on them, very simple machine. One on eBay with 78K miles and they bid it up crazy. DPF is a joke.
Yeah them low mile pre emission trucks are ridiculous. I was at an equipment auction over the weekend and there were several trucks there. One was a 5 speed 95 obs 7.3L,CC, 2wd dually with a flatbed and a home fabbed front bumper. 149k on the clock. Fairly clean inside but both front fenders were smashed just behind the headlights. Almost like it got caught in between a couple gates or something. Went for $6,500. I'd have liked to had it but that wasn't what I was there for. Ran like a top.

Then there was an absolutely clapped out 99 super duty, 4x4, CC, dually, auto, lariat (ragged out interior) 480k on the clock, pretty nice flatbed on it, sucker went for 15k.

A buddy of mine finds and flips 2nd gen dodges on occasion when he can find deals on them. That's another one that brings a premium.
 
Let me try and create use some use plans,

Local use summer and winter, winter gets snow storms, snow usually lasts a few days at 5000' my AO but sticks at 7,500' for the season, summer gets monsoon flash floods, no services in these backwoods areas, 100's of miles of non paved Forest Service Roads.

1. Fishing the small stocked lakes with kayak, forest service roads only maintained after May 1 until November 1 all dirt except for a few miles of pavement. No Cell service, we have a GMRS repeater on a high mountain or inReach.
2. Shooting Range, 2 mile dirt road off the paved road on a Forest Service Road, elevation 4000'
3. Hookup buddies 12' aluminum boat and travel to the two big lakes, one 20 minutes and the other 40 minutes.
4. Hookup buddies UTV trailer and tow on a dirt Forest Service Road to a Trail Head and rock crawl to hunting spot, to hot for UTV in the summer, winter activity.

Travel with Little Lady, month on the road, hit a motel every third day and fish off the Kayak, no trailers, dirt Forest Service Roads, a few creek crossings with rocks.

So no rock crawling except for crossing creeks. Real Rock Crawling with a buddy, not wife. and using a UTV. The Truck will have a DECK Box, Overland Rack and all the tools needed solve your own problems, these Forest Roads at your own risk. Need a 700 mile range.
Just some thoughts based on some of my experiences:
1. If you are going to load the bed with 1,000 lbs I would opt for a 3/4 ton and maybe air bags.
2. I would consider a gas 3/4 ton.
3. although the gas rigs are lighter I have never had a problem with the extra weight of the diesels. Most of my local camping sounds similar to your description above. Usually the forest service roads and old logging roads are fine and I cant remember sinking to the axles even in spring.
4. Most of the year I am at 5300' with snow most of the winter. I use the block heater a lot and have started using oil pan heaters. Gas is less of an issue in the cold.
5. the 2002 and 2006 are both manuals and seem to work just fine. The 2011, however, drives so much better that its the one I tend to take on longer camping trips. The reason I mention this is, not being a mechanic, I cant speak to longevity but spending hours on the highway to get to the dirt road in bad weather sort of knocks out the two older trucks.
6. With a 1,000lbs camper plus stuff the extra torque of the diesels makes a difference when on the road or those long uphill forest service roads.

Last thought..... none of my trucks took care of all the needs I thought I might have but I already owned them. And I also already had one of those pop up camper shell things. They had 4wd and 2 got winches just in case and that was about all the preparation I did. As I have used them I have added, bit by bit, the things I needed. Along the way I learned that I did not really run into big rocks so I dont need 37" tires. I rarely use 4wd and learned I dont need lockers. It became clear I need bug spray way more than I need bear spray. I guess my point is to start somewhere and just learn as you go.

Enjoy the journey.
 
dpf is another emissions bullshit that wrecks cars and trucks

you don't want this even just get rid of that shit bypass or whatever

if u have the right ppl around you get it sorted otherwise learn how to get rid of it ;)
 
I just stopped by to see if y’all were still jerking each other off over diesel trucks 😜
Also, looks like 42K Fords recalled for potential axle issues. Shocker.
 
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I just stopped by to see if y’all were still jerking each other off over diesel trucks 😜
Also, looks like 42K Fords recalled for potential axle issues. Shocker.

You act like every other manufacturer doesn't have recalls🤦‍♂️
 
Jumping into this late...

OP - if you are looking for recommendations, what is your budget? I am in CA too and do a lot of the same stuff as you.

Regarding diesels with DPF - I had a 2012 Ford F-350 6.7 diesel crew cab long bed with carli 2.5" lift, kings, running 37" tires, front/rear lockers. Over the approx 10yrs, put 160k miles on it with zero issues. Used it as a daily driver, tow vehicle (5th wheel for a little, boat, trailers and such), and shooting/hunting rig (hunting in 10-15 degree weather and such). Once I hit 160k miles the truck would not pass smog, turbo was needing to be replaced and EGR was becoming clogged (excess idle hours). I replaced the turbo, drove it for a while but did not want to dive into the smog repairs so sold it to my brother in Oregon (no smog requirements). He turned around and put 40s on it and drives the shit out of it, camping and pulling very heavy trailers.

With all that said, if you are planning to replace the truck in the next 5-10years and will only expect to put 10-15k a year on it, i wouldn't hesitate to get a diesel. I don't think you will have a problem with it in that time period. However, and I am debating this for my own decision, the new gas motors seem to work well too.

My thoughts on the current trucks:

1. Power Wagon - based on your description of use, I think this would work best for you. 35s and front/rear lockers, winch.

2. Ford F-250 - I would probably consider the 7.3 gas over the diesel. Range wouldn't be as good but truck would be a little lighter. I like the solid front axle and that you can get a factory locker in the rear. Personally, I can't stand the new alumi-body bullshit. It feels cheap and weak. I wish they kept the steel body. With that said, if you can find a clean/low mileage 15-16 6.7 (last years of steel body), that would be a great option too.

3. GM/Chevy - Good trucks but the independent front suspension is a deal killer for me. Only way I would consider one is if it has the WFO SAS kit installed with a ford Dana 60 front.

4. Finding a low mileage 7.3PS diesel would be a good choice to. Even though they don't use DEF, you still have to deal with the smog bullshit in CA so be mindful of tuners and such. Front suspension is lacking and should be converted to a radius arm setup IMO. I am also not a fan of their 4spd transmission but can work well if you flush it regularly.

5. I am not a fan of the 1/2ton or tacoma idea. Yes those will work but, IMO, not ideal. Interiors are small and you will be limited on cargo capacity (not just weight but amount of stuff you can bring). Its like saying a AI is too much of a rifle for what you are doing and a RPR will get it done is all you need. Fuck that, get what you want to use and will make you happen to get into and drive. Also, why suffer with a 60lb ruck when you can bring the entire house with you...
 
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4 people in the cab... 1/4 ton in the bed.

Auto standard is 150 per person, looking to change to 175 because cheese burgers...

So 4x150=600... 1100-600=500lbs.

A V6 4x4 Tacoma is a 1/4 ton truck and once again you have proven you don't know that much about vehicles or 2nd grade math.

Thanks for playing. (beware the rainbow gobblins)
I thought you were a Yaris driver?
 
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I would just avoid it at all cost. Just the cost alone of having to replace one out of warranty is staggering. I know, I deal with them every single day all day, all over the US and Canada. I manage huge fleets for your megacorporations and quite a few cities and states. We deal with probably 4-5 million cars, trucks, semis, trailers or whatever piece of equipment that has wheels and some that don't.

I feel people with the 6.7 Fords. It's possibly the biggest POS on the road, but people love them... until they have to pay crazy money to fix them. Half my day is dealing with their shit ass designs and stupid repair prices. If it's not the DPF, it's going to be some stupid ass sensor that goes out, NOX, DPF pressure sensor, DEF related issues that is going to put you into reduced engine power. Not only is their emissions system total shit, so is their fuel systems and cooling systems on the 6.7s. Metal in the fuel system on a 6.7 Ford? Thats at least 11-13k in repairs if you are lucky. I get shady ass shop trying to charge 15-30 hours for this job ALL the time. I see that repair at least 2-3 times a week.

Personally ,with a light duty vehicle, 4500/450 chassis and under get the big gas engine versions. The new 7.3. Ford isn't that bad, I haven't seen too many issues with them yet. And the GM 6.6 has been very good, probably going to be as good as the good old 6.0 LS engines.
What do you do? I feel like you are full of shit bud. The Scorpion motor is tried and true. The new HO is 500hp and 1200ftlbs tq, so no other manufacturer is getting that from the factory. Do a DCR conversion to a Pstroke and the motor should run a long time.
 
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What do you do? I feel like you are full of shit bud. The Scorpion motor is tried and true. The new HO is 500hp and 1200ftlbs tq, so other manufacturer is getting that from the factory. Do a DCR conversion to a Pstroke and the motor should run a long time.
How you figure I'm full of shit? My job is literally looking at repair tickets from all over the US and Canada for cars, trucks, semis, trailers ect. So my experience on repairs would be more vast than your normal repair shop or a single owner experience.
 
How you figure I'm full of shit? My job is literally looking at repair tickets from all over the US and Canada for cars, trucks, semis, trailers ect. So my experience on repairs would be more vast than your normal repair shop or a single owner experience.
You literally singled out the 6.7 Ford for 10-15k fuel issues. Clearly you don't know why that is and you just think it's a Ford issue. Hint, it's a European manufacturer that's the issue.
 
You literally singled out the 6.7 Ford for 10-15k fuel issues. Clearly you don't know why that is and you just think it's a Ford issue. Hint, it's a European manufacturer that's the issue.
Yeah, cause you don't have to replace the whole fuel system on a Duramax, Cummins, or Isuzu engines when you put gas into the tank. Sure we get injector pumps, injectors ect on those too, but not all of it at once. It's such a common issue, Ford has a part number for the kit to fix the problem, then you will need other fuel system parts depending on the year of the veh. It has to do with the high fuel pressures that Ford runs in their engines and it can't take gas as there is little to no lubrication in it. That's basically the short of it. I don't have that issues with the Semis since driver know not to put gas in the tanks and they don't fill up at normal light duty pumps. With the 6.7 Ford you might get away with it. I had a friend that did on his 16 F250. I don't know how many tickets I have seen where this has happened and the bills can go anywhere from 10-15k easily depending on what in the back of the truck. If it has a boom/crane, service body, generator, ect it's a huge PITA to remove to pull everything off and if the upfitter wired it to where the wiring is in the cab that creates a huge issue too with lifting the cab. I legit get this call or see this issue at least once or twice a week. And that's just me. I couldn't imagine how many other ones that we handle have this same issue. And most of it is not because some dumb driver put gas in the diesel. The vast majority is because somewhere in the fuel system, either the fuel pump or the high pressure fuel pump took a shit and put metal everywhere in the system. And it's just not the fuel system. The emission and cooling systems are total jokes on the 6.7s too. I would say it's rare to see a 6.7 not seeping or leaking coolant of some sort through the hoses.
 
My 2005 dodge 3500 5.9 has 400k on it and still gets 21mpg while not towing , I asked a shop owner what it would cost to rebuild the motor and got a quote of 8k , that's a bargain compared to the cost of the new diesels that get maybe 18mpg and are in the shop half the time , might think about just rebuilding what you got.
I was noticing my '01 F-350 7.3 today with it's new Nitto Recon Grapplers, what a good looking truck it was. As one woman described, it sure is a handsome devil. I ordered it new in 2000 and have been the only driver except when it gets driven around the block for inspections. I will not even let my g/f drive it.

It has almost 500k on the clock and on it's 3rd tranny, the first two were duds and crapped out at 75 and 85k, which is going in next week to be routine flushed.

The International engine has never been chipped or tuned, still runs strong and sounds as badass as the truck looks with it's straight 4" muffler delete exhaust.

The body and interior still looks good enough for people to compliment me on it, ask what year it is and if I want to sell it.

If the engine or tranny went out I'd just rebuild them.
 
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I've got a pretty high "pain tolerance" when it comes to my vehicles - previous daily was a 6.4L that I ran out to 260K, and my current ride is a E350 with a 6.0L. Despite this tendency towards automotive self-flagellation, I don't think that a modern diesel risk-vs-reward trade-off is worth it unless someone is really working the truck on a daily basis. Even then, it requires some consideration as to whether a $20k+ engine replacement that sidelines the truck for several months is worth the power and fuel economy.

The EPA's destruction of the aftermarket tuning industry does nothing to improve this calculation, but even with a full delete there is a potential for serious pain at some point in the truck's life.
 
After driving one truck for almost a quarter century and only having to replace two transmissions and some ball joints, I think a $20k new engine vs. selling the body and buying a new truck for what a new house should cost is the way to go. But thats just me.
 
I thought you were a Yaris driver?
LOL...

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