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Dillon progressive purchase advice needed

One item that I did on my 750 for 223 was to flatten the shell plate using a flat surface in this case a piece of glass and wet/dry 320 paper doing so stopped the plate from tilting when applying pressure, I was never able to get consistent sizing or seating until I did. Sorry to say I gave up on the priming system, one thing that helps is to have a can of air handy to keep clearing the punch of bit’s of brass which seemed to,find their way into it. One thing I was never able to overcome with the priming system was at the end having it throw primers out or turn them sideways no matter how slow I went with it. I’ve moved to hand priming to keep from crushing or losing them on the floor.

Forgot to mention, I did hone the bottom of all my plates using a special honing "stone" from Japan in 400 grit, wet sanding. Worked quite well but I did this before even loading the first cartridge.

I've had ok success with the primers. I did do a major f*ck up early on and forgot to put the right-sized tube in the primer feeder. That'll ruin your day. Bottom line, I find the more I use it, the better I get. It's definitely not a set and forget sort of machine. It does take a bit of practice to get that rhythm down and to be able to pay attention to all the various aspects of reloading which are happening at the same time.


 
the primers turning sideway issue is more than likely an improperly swaged crimped pocket.

2-650s and 2-1050s on Ammobot Autodrives. Planning on getting 3-CP 2000s with the new Dillon Automation for pure case prep.

Same as a few people here, TONS of Dillon equipment. Once you get everything dialed, they are a dream to work with. Requires some messing to start, but once you get it "right" make sure you mark it all and go from there.

I processed 50k 223 last year, making sure swage is correct, is one of the most critical items for proper progressive loading.
For me I had gotten to the point of checking each an every primer before it reaches the case to make sure some bit o stupid wasn’t happening with the primer, the other thing is I don’t use swayed brass. And I’ve changed the tip of the storage rod several items to insure that’s not the issue.
 
I am shopping the same as you. One thing I am looking at is doing two case prep heads.

First is only a decapping die. Run with a case feeder and just decal as quick as possible. Then wet tumble/sonic/dry clean (whatever your method).

Second is a size, mandrel, and then trim with the 1500 set up. After this step again your method clean the sizing lube off. Chamfer the case mouths between this and the next,

Then move into your loading setups. First step would a mandrel. Choose your method. Maybe even load real long range stuff on the old Rock Chucker.

The power trimmer is a game changer to me. As well as the dragging set up. Have heard spare parts kits are good.

Am going to go play with a buddy’s that has some experience, we are going to do a caliber change also. Only ever loaded on a single stage.
I run two 650's (SP and LP) and I follow a similar routine which works out quite well.
 
For me I had gotten to the point of checking each an every primer before it reaches the case to make sure some bit o stupid wasn’t happening with the primer, the other thing is I don’t use swayed brass. And I’ve changed the tip of the storage rod several items to insure that’s not the issue.

if you are not using swaged brass on a 650/750, and not hand sorting out the military brass, that is most likely your problem with the messed up primers
 
if you are not using swaged brass on a 650/750, and not hand sorting out the military brass, that is most likely your problem with the messed up primers
No that means I stopped using military brass some time ago. which has nothing to do with the primer system screwing up. I do hand priming now and plan on moving to a cps when we can again buy it.
 
No that means I stopped using military brass some time ago. which has nothing to do with the primer system screwing up. I do hand priming now and plan on moving to a cps when we can again buy it.
I have two CPS's and love them, that being said, the priming system on the Dillon XL750 Is why I now own a Dillon RL1100, it's so smooth priming, you don't even feel it like with other presses.. The priming system on the 750 was an absolute pain in my ass, I hated it..
 
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Forgot to mention, I did hone the bottom of all my plates using a special honing "stone" from Japan in 400 grit, wet sanding. Worked quite well but I did this before even loading the first cartridge.

I've had ok success with the primers. I did do a major f*ck up early on and forgot to put the right-sized tube in the primer feeder. That'll ruin your day. Bottom line, I find the more I use it, the better I get. It's definitely not a set and forget sort of machine. It does take a bit of practice to get that rhythm down and to be able to pay attention to all the various aspects of reloading which are happening at the same time.


It shocked me how far out of flat the plate was when I did mine, made a huge difference with seating and sizing not to mention how much better the rotation ran.
 
I have two CPS's and love them, that being said, the priming system on the Dillon XL750 Is why I now own a Dillon RL1100, it so smooth priming, you don't even feel it like with other presses.. The priming system on the 750 was an absolute pain in my ass, I hated it..
I’ll second and third that!
 
I think in all my time of being on this site, this is the first thread that will cause me to save money. After reading through all this I'm just going to get another 550.
 
I think in all my time of being on this site, this is the first thread that will cause me to save money. After reading through all this I'm just going to get another 550.

Hahahahha..... idk man...if you load pistol, 5.56, 300blk, 308 or 6.5cm in qty nothing like a 650/750/1100......with a case feeder and bullet feeder...just pull the handle
 
Hahahahha..... idk man...if you load pistol, 5.56, 300blk, 308 or 6.5cm in qty nothing like a 650/750/1100......with a case feeder and bullet feeder...just pull the handle

Exactly. Been shooting a lot more USPSA this year and I finally broke down and just bought my 750. 550 will get moved upstairs for rifle stuff and 750 will be 9mm only for now.

Am I the only one who hasn’t had issues with the 550/750 priming system? Lol
 
Once I added the AutoDrive to my 650 it's been totally awesome! Wished I would have added the drive years earlier. I couldn't imagine going back to pulling the handle...... I load 9MM, 38/357 Mag, 5.56, 6mm ARC, and 6.5 CM on the 650......
 
This thread is why I never recommend beginners to progressive presses or beginners to reloading to outright start with a more complicated progressive like a 650 or 750. It is a lot to take in for them. Especially if you are overly analytical and see a "runout" boogeyman behind every part of the press.
about 7 years ago when I first started reloading, I started with a 650. Best thing I've ever done. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and methodical, almost OCD sometimes. IMHO, im glad I started with a 650/750. Dillon has great instructions, there are a TON of youtube videos, and forums to help. Its not that bad
 
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Exactly. Been shooting a lot more USPSA this year and I finally broke down and just bought my 750. 550 will get moved upstairs for rifle stuff and 750 will be 9mm only for now.

Am I the only one who hasn’t had issues with the 550/750 priming system? Lol
I think this is a real possibility.. 😆 I wanna buy another 1100 and dedicate it for 223..
 
Exactly. Been shooting a lot more USPSA this year and I finally broke down and just bought my 750. 550 will get moved upstairs for rifle stuff and 750 will be 9mm only for now.

Am I the only one who hasn’t had issues with the 550/750 priming system? Lol
I have never had an issue either.
 
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My problem was it wouldn't pick up primers half the time, I tried multiple times to adjust it and it never helped. So I looked down the primer chute a little closer and it was out of alignment horizontally instead of being short or too long, at that point I was tired of fucking with it and sent it to a new home. I am happy I did because now I have a press I'm happy with..
 
Exactly. Been shooting a lot more USPSA this year and I finally broke down and just bought my 750. 550 will get moved upstairs for rifle stuff and 750 will be 9mm only for now.

Am I the only one who hasn’t had issues with the 550/750 priming system? Lol
So many people in this thread talking about the 750 primer system. Has anyone actually called Dillon?

I had 2 550B's, the 1st was great from day 1. Second was the opposite. Turns out direct from the factory the priming mechanism was installed incorrectly. Guy on the phone at Dillon had me measure it, made an adjustment and it's been fine since.
 
So many people in this thread talking about the 750 primer system. Has anyone actually called Dillon?

I had 2 550B's, the 1st was great from day 1. Second was the opposite. Turns out direct from the factory the priming mechanism was installed incorrectly. Guy on the phone at Dillon had me measure it, made an adjustment and it's been fine since.
No need to call Dillon, I fixed the problem, haven't had one since... 🤣
 
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This thread is why I never recommend beginners to progressive presses or beginners to reloading to outright start with a more complicated progressive like a 650 or 750. It is a lot to take in for them. Especially if you are overly analytical and see a "runout" boogeyman behind every part of the press.
Not sure if you're referring to me but I've been loading on a single stage for a few years prior to purchasing the Dillon. Bottom line, for me anyway, is the Dillon does take a bit of tweaking and an understanding of what it wants to deliver consistent results along with making sure all the correct parts are in place for whatever caliber you're loading for. There's lots of little bits to switch out between calibers. But I was swapping out small/large primer bases no problem, making adjustments, etc...for the most part it ran well and I haven't had to tweak much of the stock Dillon components (other than powder-related stuff). The more I use it the faster I get and the fewer stoppages I have. Once I get into a rhythm, it's all good.

I'd say the the only real disappointment is their powder measure system. I also think they could produce tighter tolerances on things like shell plates and incorporate some aftermarket improvements like locking tool heads and friction reducers. Most of my mods were directed at smoothing out the mechanism to eliminate powder spillage as that was an early "target" for me prior to even loading my first round.

It seems, at times, that the final cartridge's quality is dependent upon user input, finesse, rhythm, whatever you want to call it. Makes me wonder how automation produces consistent results as it's a machine, no feel. But it really all comes down to setup and consistency.

The other frustrating aspect is just KNOWING what all was out there in the aftermarket and getting those components to work with one and other spatially. Had I known I could have adapted the RCBS or Lee powder throwers to the Dillon, I would not have put any effort into the stock Dillon powder drop or invested in a DA short powder bar, things of that nature.

My own primer issues weren't caused by the Dillon but by not unifying all of my brass on 300 blackout. The primer pockets weren't all the same depth as it was mixed LC military brass that I'd swaged. Some of it was reamed which is tedious (as is unifying) but ultimately would have given me better results if I'd done those steps on every piece of brass. Or used non-military brass. When I had 9mm priming issues it was because I forgot to put the damn small primer tube inside the priming tool. Yeah, I did that. Boy did I feel stupid.

I won't argue that there's a learning curve. There definitely is and I've experienced it first-hand. But happy with the amount of ammo (to my standards) I'm able to produce within a given time frame. Even though the current expenditure is much higher than I had planned for, it's still less expensive than purchasing factory ammo in the same amount I'm able to produce with the components I have on hand.
 
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IMO the biggest issue/weakness with the 750 priming system is that the stupid "primer operating rod" (#10 in attached pic) doesn't always come with the proper amount of bend in it from the factory: if its bend doesn't have enough kick in it, it won't cycle correctly and allow the shuttle that picks up primers to travel all the way back towards the primer magazine (and if it is short-stroking on you, even just a tiny bit, it will cause it to not pick up fresh primers every time).

Figuring that out was huge. Fix that, along with the usual stuff, and it actually works great. I've fixed 2 other 750's besides mine by just bending that rod a bit more...

Screen Shot 2022-07-22 at 10.45.15 AM.png
 
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Forgot to mention, I did hone the bottom of all my plates using a special honing "stone" from Japan in 400 grit, wet sanding. Worked quite well but I did this before even loading the first cartridge.

I've had ok success with the primers. I did do a major f*ck up early on and forgot to put the right-sized tube in the primer feeder. That'll ruin your day. Bottom line, I find the more I use it, the better I get. It's definitely not a set and forget sort of machine. It does take a bit of practice to get that rhythm down and to be able to pay attention to all the various aspects of reloading which are happening at the same time.


Is honing really necessary on a 750? unlike the 550, a case on the 750 rides in the slot and is not captured between press plate and shell plate. I honed one of my plates but stopped after some consideration to the above fact. I'm not sure what the point would be to hone a shell plate on a 750, please explain.
 
Is honing really necessary on a 750? unlike the 550, a case on the 750 rides in the slot and is not captured between press plate and shell plate. I honed one of my plates but stopped after some consideration to the above fact. I'm not sure what the point would be to hone a shell plate on a 750, please explain.

IMO, this is a YMMV/arguable subject...

Personally, I don't think the 750 requires any of the honing, aftermarket shellplates, aftermarket bearings and much of the other suff that many guys change out. It's a machine that's primarily designed for quantity more so than quality. One can buy and bolt on everything under the sun and it will still never make precision ammo that is as nice as just about any $100 single stage will, that's not a dig though, it's just got too many moving parts.
 
IMO, this is a YMMV/arguable subject...

Personally, I don't think the 750 requires any of the honing, aftermarket shellplates, aftermarket bearings and much of the other suff that many guys change out. It's a machine that's primarily designed for quantity more so than quality. One can buy and bolt on everything under the sun and it will still never make precision ammo that is as nice as just about any $100 single stage will, that's not a dig though, it's just got too many moving parts.
I made some of the mentioned improvements to my 750 before I made any ammo, so I'm not sure how the 750 runs in OEM configuration. Its since ran several thousand MK262 clones through w/o a hiccup. Ball powder meters great. I also made a thousand 168gn FGMM clones using the Auto Tricker and Area 419 adaptor for powder drop using XBR 8208. It requires a little more synchronization for off-press throw/on-press charge but its manageable - and slower. Accuracy results for each load are acceptable for their intended purpose. I would dare say PRS ammo could be successfully loaded on the 750 - and I think a few are doing that.

I have heard that XBR 8208 and the Dillion are a good match for each other. I read this after production so I never tested on my press. Does anyone have experience with that combo? good or bad..
 
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IMO, this is a YMMV/arguable subject...

Personally, I don't think the 750 requires any of the honing, aftermarket shellplates, aftermarket bearings and much of the other suff that many guys change out. It's a machine that's primarily designed for quantity more so than quality. One can buy and bolt on everything under the sun and it will still never make precision ammo that is as nice as just about any $100 single stage will, that's not a dig though, it's just got too many moving parts.
To make a precision round on the 1050 vs single stage, what really matters?
1. Sizing - Can't see that a single stage would do better, but I could be very wrong
2. Swaging - Would be off press for a single stage, so can't see a difference here.
3. Primer insertion - Can't see that a single stage would do better, but maybe controlling the insertion depth may be better.
4. Powder Drop - Here I can see where monitoring powder by the grain will give you a better SD and extreme spread.
5. Powder Check - No effect
6. Seating - With a micrometer seating die, I can't see a single stage would do all that much better.
7. Crimp - Not needed with rifle dies.
 
IMO, this is a YMMV/arguable subject...

Personally, I don't think the 750 requires any of the honing, aftermarket shellplates, aftermarket bearings and much of the other suff that many guys change out. It's a machine that's primarily designed for quantity more so than quality. One can buy and bolt on everything under the sun and it will still never make precision ammo that is as nice as just about any $100 single stage will, that's not a dig though, it's just got too many moving parts.

Lol seriously?

You know how much match ammo with 1-2 tho run out I load on a 650?......
 
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You guys are all missing me...

I never said you couldn't load precision ammo on a Dillon/progressive, I know you can and that many do.

I said I didn't think a lot of the aftermarket stuff matters much as compared to what you can get off a mostly stock machine, that's just like my opinion man lol. I personally think it has much more to do with how well the machine is setup/adjusted, and what the monkey pulling the handle does, than what parts get swapped out.
 
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No we understand exactly what you said....maybe you should go back and read it.... You said...and I quote....."One can buy and bolt on everything under the sun and it will still never make precision ammo that is as nice as just about any $100 single stage will"

You didnt just say adding upgrades makes the same ammo as a stock Dillon..... you said, no matter stock or with all the upgrades in the world...the Dillon will never make precision ammo as nice as just about any $100 single stage....

First off, I dont know what "nice" means when it comes to making ammo. I know how to measure runout and concentricity.... And I can tell you Ive made 10's of thousands of precision handloads on my Dillons that have identical runout and accuracy as the same ammo made on a single stage Co-Ax. I actually did that very test years ago on here in the Dillon thread where I made identical ammo on my Co-Ax and my 650.... Zero difference in ES/SD or Accuracy......
 
Interesting thread with lots of good points. I have owned lots of presses over the years. Would be curious to see what fraction of a percent of trained/above average shooters could shoot the difference between quality loads loaded on one press vs. another? Using the same exact components/dies on a Forster Coax, Redding T7 or Dillon will produce quality results that are more a reflection of consistent loading techniques than mechanical differences. The gauges dont lie.

When I see shooters pondering a 750 all pimped out, the first thing that comes to mind is why not just cry once and buy a used 1050? In the long run you will save money and time. How you ask? Because you purchased the features you really wanted in the first place. Priming on the up stroke is good, and a built in swager is even better.

If there is a real person that sold Dillon Equipment to purchase Lee........well....... better you than me. LOL

YMMV
 
No we understand exactly what you said....maybe you should go back and read it.... You said...and I quote....."One can buy and bolt on everything under the sun and it will still never make precision ammo that is as nice as just about any $100 single stage will"

You didnt just say adding upgrades makes the same ammo as a stock Dillon..... you said, no matter stock or with all the upgrades in the world...the Dillon will never make precision ammo as nice as just about any $100 single stage....

First off, I dont know what "nice" means when it comes to making ammo. I know how to measure runout and concentricity.... And I can tell you Ive made 10's of thousands of precision handloads on my Dillons that have identical runout and accuracy as the same ammo made on a single stage Co-Ax. I actually did that very test years ago on here in the Dillon thread where I made identical ammo on my Co-Ax and my 650.... Zero difference in ES/SD or Accuracy......

Pardon me, you are correct, I didn't articulate myself properly.

I guess what I meant was that, figuartivly, a progressive with all its moving parts means much more intreactions for one to try and control than is the case with a simple single-stage and its few moving parts. More variables to keep an eye on usually means more mistakes for most people, and thus, a worse product... but in fairness, "most people" isn't everybody, so it's not a hard rule.

Again... that's just, like, my opinion, man.
 
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Pardon me, you are correct, I didn't articulate myself properly.

I guess what I meant was that, figuartivly, a progressive with all its moving parts means much more intreactions for one to try and control than is the case with a simple single-stage and its few moving parts. More variables to keep an eye on usually means more mistakes for most people, and thus, a worse product... but in fairness, "most people" isn't everybody, so it's not a hard rule.

Again... that's just, like, my opinion, man.
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I have gone back and forth on a 650 versus 1100 for a couple of years. The price difference is not in the two machines. The price difference is in the tool heads and conversion kits: that's where the 1100 kills you.

I feel that one in my soul. As someone with (2) 1050s and 14 toolheads, and almost as many conversions, its never cheap. I mitigate a lot of that cost by buying/selling reloading stuff. I buy out people selling their gear, keep what I want, and sell the rest. NORMALLY it all works out in my favor, and I get a lot of great stuff for "free".

I still want to pick up (3) dedicated CP2000s though, with the new Dillon Automation, to processing 9mm, 45, and 556. Then on occasion run 308/40.
 
Pardon me, you are correct, I didn't articulate myself properly.

I guess what I meant was that, figuartivly, a progressive with all its moving parts means much more intreactions for one to try and control than is the case with a simple single-stage and its few moving parts. More variables to keep an eye on usually means more mistakes for most people, and thus, a worse product... but in fairness, "most people" isn't everybody, so it's not a hard rule.

Again... that's just, like, my opinion, man.
What sold me on the 750 was several f-class guys using them for their match loading. Some have since moved to the zero press but my intention was a high volume and match capable solution in one press. Co-ax fills in the gaps
 
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What sold me on the 750 was several f-class guys using them for their match loading. Some have since moved to the zero press but my intention was a high volume and match capable solution in one press. Co-ax fills in the gaps

Im waiting to pick up a Zero press.. was going to get a T-7 turret, and then the Zero came out. Time to up my precision rifle loading game. I like my chuckers, but having a turret, where once you set the die, it never has to move, has a ton of appeal to me
 
Right now I really want to buy an 1100 and auto drive just for case prep. But everytime I add everything up I think I don't process enough brass to justify it. That I just need to gut it out the half dozen times or so that I need to process a thousand or so cases.

..... meanwhile I'm putting off running about 800 pcs of fired and cleaned brass thu the trimmer and swager and I have a match coming up this weekend and have no prepped brass ...

That is exactly why I put an autodrive on one of my 1100s.

I run all my brass through it and get the FL resizing done at around 2,000 cases per hour while I am doing something else. Just having that one step done makes loading ammo so much easier.

I have been loading long range ammo on a 550 progressive for 15+ years. I dont use the Dillon powder measure, I use a Prometheus or an autotrickler. But every time I pull the handle a loaded round comes out the other side.

A lightly tuned Dillon powder measure will throw pistol powders like Titegroup and Bullseye to within 0.04 of where I want it. A tuned Dillon measure will also throw big kernels like Varget to within a tenth or two.

The 550 will have better shoulder bump consistency and seat depth consistency than the 750/650/1050 family because of the way the shell plates are made.

My 550 loads everything from 17 Mach IV to 338 Lapua.
 
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A lightly tuned Dillon powder measure will throw pistol powders like Titegroup and Bullseye to within 0.04 of where I want it. A tuned Dillon measure will also throw big kernels like Varget to within a tenth or two.

Can you talk more about this tuning? I have the armanov dial, seems to help but is there something I’m missing?
 
I pretty much did everything in the video above EXCEPT for the vibration device. Threw my VV pistol powder fine but not H110. Maybe I could have tweaked it a bit more and experimented but I threw a bit of coin at it instead. I did a full disassembly manual mirror polish on all of the components other than the powder slide bar as I didn't want to change any critical dimensions and cause leakage with the finer powders.

For whatever reason, I've found better headspace consistency on my 750 when processing 300 blackout than on a single stage RCBS. I did move away from One Shot case lube to lanolin/alcohol so that may be a contributing factor. I think on a completely stock 750, this might not be the case. But with the honed plate, locked tool head and careful tuning, it was spot on for 1500 cases I just processed.

One question...how are you all "belling" the 300 blackout cases? I'm using a Century21 mandrel and it does not have the range to adjust enough to accomplish that in the Dillon. It'll bottom out on the shell plate well before the case will touch the top of the mandrel where it starts to flare out a bit.
 
About to pull the trigger on a Dillon progressive reloader. I am reloading for semi-auto rifles (except for the 9mm which is handgun only). I've read through dozens of threads and found these particularly useful so yes, I've done some reading/research:

I am reloading for the following and already have dies for them:
-9mm
-300 Blackout
-5.56
-.308

Because I want to reload in bulk for 9mm, and I have use for large and small primers with the rifle rounds, I’m considering the XL750 over the 550. I’ve even considered just getting the 550 basic, perhaps even two of them. My goal is to eliminate the massive time suck I’ve created in reloading for the semi-auto rifles. It’s not unusual for me to reload 500 at a time over the course of a few days.

I am aiming for practical precision and hunting, not shooting out to 1,000 yards out of a bolt gun (yet). I’ll keep my single stage if I really need to be precise and work up to that on the Dillon.

Here’s my current process for rifle using an RCBS single stage press.
-Short wet tumble with stainless media
-Dry in dehumidifier
-Decap with universal decapping die
-Swage with a Dillon Super Swage 600 when needed (I use a lot of Lake City brass)
-Ream and unify when I really want to torture myself. Otherwise just a quick ream on an RCBS to make the primers go in easier
-Anneal
-Lube and full length resize using Hornady custom grade dies
-Set neck tension with Century 21 mandrel
-Trim to length if needed on a Giraud
-Longer wet tumble with stainless media
-Dry in dehumidifier
-Prime with Franklin hand-held
-Measure powder with either an RCBS Chargemaster 1500 or use an RCBS thrower or Lee thrower depending on powders used and if load is developed.
-Seat bullet with a Hornady seater and micrometer
-Crimp in separate step with a Redding crimp die


This has worked well for me in terms of the quality I’ve been able to produce. I know I could likely do an initial longer tumble and forget about cleaning primer pockets. I may go that route. I haven’t really looked but are there rifle full length resizing dies with a primer punch but without the neck expander ball? That’d eliminate a separate step right there.

I currently use the following powders with the caliber in parenthesis:
-H335 (5.56)
-Benchmark (5.56)
-IMR 4064 (7.62)
-Varget (7.62)
-CFE Blk (300 Blackout)
-Lil Gun (300 Blackout)
-H110 (300 Blackout)
-VV N120 (300 Blackout)
-VV N340 (9mm)
-Alliant Sport Pistol (9mm)

I get really good results with the Lee thrower and the extruded powders like Varget. Anything that’s ball, non-extruded, goes through the RCBS thrower although I have not tried all the powders above through the RCBS or Lee throwers just yet. I will likely simplify my powders and stick to one for each cartridge if I’m able but like the flexibility depending on availability.

**I am going to separate brass processing and reloading into two different steps on the Dillon.**

**I almost never load more than one caliber in a “session”. I may load up say 300 .308 cartridges with a single stage and will move on to something else at a later time. So setup time isn’t a major factor but it is a factor.

One quick question, when ordering the XL750 from Dillon, you must specify a cartridge. Is there any advantage in ordering one over another? My most pressing needs (I see what you did there) are 300 blackout and 9mm.

I don’t want to go overboard with add ons that I may not make a difference based on my practical accuracy requirement. I don’t have an unlimited budget and want to keep it smart. I may try out the Dillon products first and want to keep my dies preset. If they don’t work for me, I’ll look towards the aftermarket, toolheads not included. With that said, here’s what I’d like to order from Dillon;
-XL750 basic kit
-Extra primer tubes for small/large
-Caliper conversion kits for the other three cartridges
-Powder dies (3) so I can swap over the powder measure between tool heads
-Bullet tray
-Possibly the RT1500 trimmer, short trim toolhead and rapid trim size/trim die

I am willing to make mods/adjustments to the powder drop system (polish everything) and the priming system which I know can also be a hangup. I'm also willing to move the powder measuring step off-press if need be.

Aftermarket in no particular order;
-Inline Fab locator pin tabs
-Inline Fab Ultramount
-Inline Fab ERGO roller lever
-Uniquetek powder tube baffle
-Uniwquetek Powder bar micrometer (assuming I just need one if swapping out the powder measure
-Uniquetek powder measure quick change, QD Tab
-Billet tool heads, possibly floating die variety like Armanov, for each caliber
-Shellplate bearing kit (like Hit Factor) which’ll come in hand with 300BLK supers especially
-Possibly the Area 419 master funnel kit if I’m dropping manually
-KMS LED light kit

What else might I need to swap the powder system from tool head to tool head easily? I’ll eventually add more but would like to save a few $$$ initially by moving it from toolhead to toolhead.

Anything else that might be absolutely necessary? I’m sure I’ve left some stuff out as there’s a lot to consider and you don’t always know what you don’t know until you’re hands on.
I reloaded for over 30 years before I bought a Dillon, and I'm STILL trying to justify it, because I shoot a LOT of guns, not a LOT of the same kind. I only make a couple hundred rounds at a time to refill my stock level. I actually prefer my RCBS Turret with (if I remember correctly) 17 turrets with two calibers on each turret. LOVE IT! They sell vertical turret stackers, but I use lag screws attached to a cabinet outside wall. I love being able to quickly set up and reload what I have shot that day at the range, and next week - a different caliber!
 
I reloaded for over 30 years before I bought a Dillon, and I'm STILL trying to justify it, because I shoot a LOT of guns, not a LOT of the same kind. I only make a couple hundred rounds at a time to refill my stock level. I actually prefer my RCBS Turret with (if I remember correctly) 17 turrets with two calibers on each turret. LOVE IT! They sell vertical turret stackers, but I use lag screws attached to a cabinet outside wall. I love being able to quickly set up and reload what I have shot that day at the range, and next week - a different caliber!
I use my Dillon exclusively for 9mm, and I love it for that as i can really pump it out. If I were trying to use it as my primary press then I would feel the same as you do. I too have a T7 and Zero press for loading my rifle cartridges on and enjoy both of them..
 
I use a 650 for 9mm, 45 and 300 win mag. I use a 1050 for 223, 7.62 x 39 and 308.

I use the bulletfeeder for 9,45,223 and 7.62 x39. I can not get the 308 one to work but I'm in the midst of it right now adjusting dies and such. I'm running into issues currently.

1050 is fantastic for swaging and cutting with a RT1500 on a toolhead. Prep tool head and loading toolhead. Yes it's pricey but once set up you are done for life.

You either have more time or money and as such that will help you decide what to get.

Dillion also sells a primer filler machine. Worth it to me vs filling a bunch of primer tunes.

I love to shoot and want to make huge batches of ammo so this works for me. I basically load a few thousands rounds of each and then I'm good for a long time.

Again. Leave the toolheads loaded with dies and its 30 mins to swap over.

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That is exactly why I put an autodrive on one of my 1100s.

I run all my brass through it and get the FL resizing done at around 2,000 cases per hour while I am doing something else. Just having that one step done makes loading ammo so much easier.

I have been loading long range ammo on a 550 progressive for 15+ years. I dont use the Dillon powder measure, I use a Prometheus or an autotrickler. But every time I pull the handle a loaded round comes out the other side.

A lightly tuned Dillon powder measure will throw pistol powders like Titegroup and Bullseye to within 0.04 of where I want it. A tuned Dillon measure will also throw big kernels like Varget to within a tenth or two.

The 550 will have better shoulder bump consistency and seat depth consistency than the 750/650/1050 family because of the way the shell plates are made.

My 550 loads everything from 17 Mach IV to 338 Lapua.
Are you managing 2k/ hr with 223, or pistol brass? I ask because I’m having a hard time processing 223 beyond 1500/ hr.
 
I didn’t read the whole thing. But I reload precision 308win on a Dillon 650. Get yourself a free floating whidden toolhead, it really makes a difference. I throw varget with the Dillon powder dispenser and don’t have a problem. I use Redding dies and really like them. You will want a case feeder.

For 556, I can do 300-400 in an hour, depending on if everything is running right.
 

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Forgot to mention, I did hone the bottom of all my plates using a special honing "stone" from Japan in 400 grit, wet sanding. Worked quite well but I did this before even loading the first cartridge.

I've had ok success with the primers. I did do a major f*ck up early on and forgot to put the right-sized tube in the primer feeder. That'll ruin your day. Bottom line, I find the more I use it, the better I get. It's definitely not a set and forget sort of machine. It does take a bit of practice to get that rhythm down and to be able to pay attention to all the various aspects of reloading which are happening at the same time.


When you honed was there any issues with tightening the shell plate down?

Also how did you know when you were done honing it?