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Dillon Super 1050/RL1050/RL1100 Loading

Sorry $295 vs $255 for oem Dillon....so $40 difference and free shipping.



I also got their casefeed cam for my 4 Dillon oem toolheads and their casefeed bearing. Super smooth
 
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I ended up with 3 1050’s, 2 550’s and a Redding T7. It‘s not the wife. I don’t have anymore space. Lol.
Wow dude. That's a pretty good bit with 3- 1050's. That's awesome. Why the 3 - 1050 vs 2- 1050 and a 650 plus 2- 550? Just curious so I can help myself figure out my own set up
 
Sorry $295 vs $255 for oem Dillon....so $40 difference and free shipping.



I also got their casefeed cam for my 4 Dillon oem toolheads and their casefeed bearing. Super smooth

I really like the Armanov toolhead for the same reasons, but I’m happy to see a domestic option that is competitive and has at least one feature that sounds better (the case feed slide).
 
I really like the Armanov toolhead for the same reasons, but I’m happy to see a domestic option that is competitive and has at least one feature that sounds better (the case feed slide).

I did not go Armanov because I didn't want the Quick change die system. Also the OnPoint thicker cam is also adjustable so you can dial in exactly how far the case feed plunger goes back for perfect case drop every time...
 
The Hornady bushing requirement on the Armanov is a great point, because in reality it increases the cost of the setup beyond the OPM cost. I ordered one a few minutes ago, appreciate the recommendation.
 
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The Hornady bushing requirement on the Armanov is a great point, because in reality it increases the cost of the setup beyond the OPM cost. I ordered one a few minutes ago, appreciate the recommendation.

I also wouldn't trust those bushing to never move on any station running on an automated press. Either way they have no use for me. I'm running dedicated toolheads that get setup and dialed in once.

The cost would be a lot cheaper for somebody that's only running one or two tool heads then I would probably make sense to buy those and then switch out dies and all that for all your different calibers but it's not for me
 
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Okay... 1050 vs 1100... I have neither but thinking of doing a 1100 for 223 and 9mm.

What's the biggest difference between the two parts interchangeability wise?

For those two calibers, no difference.

The RL1100 will only go up to 308 WIN length cases. The S1050 goes up to 30-06 length.

Everything else is the same, as far as capabilities and interchange of caliber conversion and such.
 
Interesting. Most of my brass is all 1xLC although I did run a big batch of range pickup but I didn't have a single case with those issues or look like the pics of the cases your describe.

I'd imagine if I did get some cases that looked like those pictures you posted my press would have felt the same as yours.
 
Anyone pumping out 5.56 heads up.. Powder Valley has H335 on clearance 8# jugs for $247.65 and free Hazmat...


With how much 223 you load do you a favorite powder or is it whatever is cheapest?
 
With how much 223 you load do you a favorite powder or is it whatever is cheapest?

Plinking, whatever is cheapest... I'm down to my last 4 8# jugs of WC844 that I paid $80 a jug pre covid... after that I'll use up the 8lb jugs of H335... pretty much use the jugs upvin the order I bought them...oldest to newest for plinking, I've found my handloads with ANY of these powders are WAY more accurate than any M855 or M193 factory ammo I've bought

For precision 5.56 (69,77gr stuff) 8208, AR Comp and H4895 are my go to
 
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I saw that. They removed some of the discounted prices they had and added free hazmat. I got all excited when I saw their flyer this morning but then when I saw the increased prices I realized they're just shuffling $20 from one spot to the other. Good news is there's plenty of powder available these days.
My local cabelas is pretty stacked with powder.....although they still want $140 for BR primers lol
 
I was away the past 10 days fly fishing Maine. West Branch and hiking the AT in Baxter to fish Katahdin. Epic trip.

While I was away, my FW Arms Prime Time was delivered. Man this thing is really nice and very well made. So much better than that rickety factory cam plate and assembly arm setup.

Also gives the necessary clearance to use a hold down die in the Threaded station above the primer station on a CNC toolhead. I'm use the Mighty Armory hold down die.

I just pulled my Dillon toolhead and swapped everything over to the CNC toolhead and installed the prime time. Super smooth and super easy to clear a jamb or empty primer tube. Highly recommend.

I'll get a video up shortly


 
Finally got the CNC toolhead installed, all the dies re-installed and tuned. MA hold down die over priming station. Also installing my Immortobot new sensor brackets that also came while I was away so I can get my case and bullet sensors installed.

I got the extra tall DramWorx hopper for my powder throw and the Immortobot sensor for that as well. Gotta get that installed next.

She's running sssooo smooth right now.


 
Pretty darn good deal here for a fully setup and ready to go in 9mm Super 1050 with the new Variable Speed Casefeeder for $1950.00... Thing looks barely used and virtually no wear.

 
I'm running a CP2000 and a 750, both under Autodrives.





I also run a rollsizer for the 9mm stuff. Makes the "glock bulge" a thing of the past.

Roll size first, then process brass (by the bucket load), then load on the 750.



I've also been helping a guy set up his brass processing business machines. He went with the full blown Industrial rollsizer route. That thing will suck a case feeder dry if run too fast.



Can't believe I somehow missed this thread!
 
Finally got the CNC toolhead installed, all the dies re-installed and tuned. MA hold down die over priming station. Also installing my Immortobot new sensor brackets that also came while I was away so I can get my case and bullet sensors installed.

I got the extra tall DramWorx hopper for my powder throw and the Immortobot sensor for that as well. Gotta get that installed next.

She's running sssooo smooth right now.



I've been meaning to ask you, any particular reson that you went with the Ammobot/Immortobot vs the Mark 7/Autodrive ?

I have a couple of Autodrives on my 650's. I had some issues in the beginning because Mark 7 assemblers at the factory left the column mounting screws loose that go up through the base. Once I found the problem and tightened them up, the Autodrives have been running trouble free.
 
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I've been meaning to ask you, any particular reson that you went with the Ammobot/Immortobot vs the Mark 7/Autodrive ?

I have a couple of Autodrives on my 650's. I had some issues in the beginning because Mark 7 assemblers at the factory left the column mounting screws loose that go up through the base. Once I found the problem and tightened them up, the Autodrives have been running trouble free.

Only reason was because a killer deal fell into my lap for 2x1050's, both with case feeders and MBF, multiple conversions in 5.56, 9mm, 10mm and 45acp and Ammobot/Immortobot and lots of sensors, dies, toolheads, etc. $3500 for everything.

I full planned to buy a 1100/Mark7 and then this fell in my lap. Couldn't be happier.
 
Only reason was because a killer deal fell into my lap for 2x1050's, both with case feeders and MBF, multiple conversions in 5.56, 9mm, 10mm and 45acp and Ammobot/Immortobot and lots of sensors, dies, toolheads, etc. $3500 for everything.

I full planned to buy a 1100/Mark7 and then this fell in my lap. Couldn't be happier.
Adopt me..........

Elvira1.gif
 
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Only reason was because a killer deal fell into my lap for 2x1050's, both with case feeders and MBF, multiple conversions in 5.56, 9mm, 10mm and 45acp and Ammobot/Immortobot and lots of sensors, dies, toolheads, etc. $3500 for everything.

I full planned to buy a 1100/Mark7 and then this fell in my lap. Couldn't be happier.
You're a bad influence. I saw that bearing on your case feeder, and had to order one, as well as the arm for the OEM toolhead. And of course, then I saw the toolhead guide that replaces the spring dealio...

Bad influence...:D
 
You're a bad influence. I saw that bearing on your case feeder, and had to order one, as well as the arm for the OEM toolhead. And of course, then I saw the toolhead guide that replaces the spring dealio...

Bad influence...:D

Hahah your welcome! The Armanov bearing and FW shellplate is really nice as well. So smooth.
 
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Hahah your welcome! The Armanov bearing and FW shellplate is really nice as well. So smooth.
Yeah, I was eyeballing the shellplates as well (for 6.5 CM case prep). LOL. I don't have a 308 conversion kit for the CP2000, so was thinking of pulling my 6.5CM case prep toolhead from the 750, and putting that on a spare 1100/2000 toolhead I have. Just wasn't sure if I could buy the inserts I'd need (the feeder arm and plastic insert for the case feeder tube). I like that raceway they machined into the bottom of the plate for the ball bearing stop; it makes too much sense.
 
Just make sure, if your using a rubber band or old style spring, that you completely remove the return rod and zip tie the 2 return arms together on the powder thrower.

You cannot use both the return rod/safety system and a rubber band or spring.
 
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Just make sure, if your using a rubber band or old style spring, that you completely remove the return rod and zip tie the 2 return arms together on the powder thrower.

You cannot use both the return rod/safety system and a rubber band or spring.
Why is that?
 
Why is that?

Because it won't work with both and will damage the powder thrower.. by design, the double arm gets pulled down in motion of the handle pull.. but when you put a spring or rubber band on their WITH the return rod on their, the spring makes the powder bar closes all the way before the return rod pulls both return arms down...causing one of the Bars to jam into the powder thrower cast housing and pop/rip it down.. Will damage your powder thrower for sure over time..

This is per Dillon as I had this problem and called them. Problem gone now. Most automated guys take the return rod off and zip tie the 2 brass colored return bars together with a spring.... you can only do 1 or the other..

See my video with this issue. You'll see the powder return bar close 2/3rd of the way, then snap/pop closed the last 1/3rd of the way. Thats the double brass plates jamming into the thrower cast housing because spring closed it too fast and then the rod rips it down that last 1/3rd of the way.


 
Why is that?

I couldn’t stand the return rod anyways. On the 550/750 it’s annoying and only allows one location for the powder. Never had an issue with the springs or rubber band and you can move the powder to any location in the tool head
 
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Because it won't work with both and will damage the powder thrower.. by design, the double arm gets pulled down in motion of the handle pull.. but when you put a spring or rubber band on their WITH the return rod on their, the spring makes the powder bar closes all the way before the return rod pulls both return arms down...causing one of the Bars to jam into the powder thrower cast housing and pop/rip it down.. Will damage your powder thrower for sure over time..

This is per Dillon as I had this problem and called them. Problem gone now. Most automated guys take the return rod off and zip tie the 2 brass colored return bars together with a spring.... you can only do 1 or the other..

See my video with this issue. You'll see the powder return bar close 2/3rd of the way, then snap/pop closed the last 1/3rd of the way. Thats the double brass plates jamming into the thrower cast housing because spring closed it too fast and then the rod rips it down that last 1/3rd of the way.



Oh jeez, lol. I've been using both since 2006 on a 550 and then the last 6 years on a 650. It does pop and snap the powder bars in faster but I never experienced any issues doing that. I found it threw more accurate charges with the spring giving it an extra oompf. That's why I used the spring. Didn't know I was doing it wrong all these years. Good to know I guess.
 
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I prefer the new style that goes clunk clunk clunk. Its doesent sound or feel smooth, but the charge weights are more consistent than my "springed" measures. All of them have been tuned and polished to include dram-works hoppers. With a fine grained powder like Titegroup, getting then charges within a tenth or less of each other is normal. I assume the constant clunking keeps the powder settled better.

In fact, I just got two upgrade packs for my old Dillon throwers. So old the hoppers were glued in and I have to drill holes for new hoppers. Guessing they were from my oldest 1050 I bought in the mid 90s.
 
I also prefer the return rod and new style thrower mechanism for 9mm/Titegroup. That's what my 1050/Ammobot is setup for right now. Drops dead nuts consistent.

But I prefer the spring and no rod on my other 1050 loading 5.56.... with WC844/846 with the new style rod setup I get a little bit of powder dropping on my shellplate after the bar closes on every round. Makes a mess of the shellplate and makes cleaning required much sooner.

With the spring, zero powder falls onto the shellplate...
 
Loving this thread. Very curious about trying automation for .223 brass processing. The only sticking point is I am not a mechanical engineer. When I do a full 5k clean it’s a couple hours. I go slow, read the manual and watch videos to insure I get it right.
 
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I think this question has been asked before; but I am trying to determine the difference between the RL1050, Super 1050, and RL1100 tool head. I have an older RL1050 and would like to try one of the newer tool heads. Just not sure of the compatibility. Any help is much appreciated.
 
550 then transition to a 650/750 with a case feeder and a bullet feeder. Huge upgrade in speed. I can probably load 800 rounds and hour if I’m trucking it lol.

The 1050’s and up are awesome machines but if you change calibers are a pita. If you set up for one caliber and not changing or loading straight .223 on it then rock on.
If you enjoy the process of change over, there is no issue. It will take 1 to 2 hrs per change over if you're cleaning as you go. Plan month per caliber or more. (Spring is 556, fall 9mm, summer and winter whatever and you'll get to a point of stocking ammo)

1050 like any press just needs to be understood and maintained. They are beasts... I wrestle back and forth on change over as bullet feed to me is the finicky part.
 
I think this question has been asked before; but I am trying to determine the difference between the RL1050, Super 1050, and RL1100 tool head. I have an older RL1050 and would like to try one of the newer tool heads. Just not sure of the compatibility. Any help is much appreciated.
They are interchangeable.

I am using RL1050 and Super1050 toolheads on my 1100s with no problems.
 
There is a difference in the hole size in the toolhead above the priming station. The older rl1050 toolheads have this smaller hole therefore the everglades armory hold down won't work in the older toolheads. Works fine in super 1050 toolheads. I have 5 or 6 of them right here.

I've started making the switch to all cnc toolheads with the Threaded priming station anyway
 
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Hey guys, this isn't per say dillon 1050 but I'm betting a lot in here have stuff from Inline Fabrication for their 1050's. I don't know if mine will be a 1050 or 750 or apex 10 yet, but for setting up my new loading room with quick change stuff amd inline Fab stuff, is there anything you guys just absolutely love for your 1050 set ups that inline Fab makes that I'd want to include for my 1050 set up???
 
Thank you! This is a great resource.
There are difference in work height though.

S1050 will take a 30-06.

Unsure if RL will and I don’t see 30-06 offered as a choice on the newer ones.

I guess things are only limited by your ability to adapt and overcome though.
 
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There is a difference in the hole size in the toolhead above the priming station. The older rl1050 toolheads have this smaller hole therefore the everglades armory hold down won't work in the older toolheads. Works fine in super 1050 toolheads. I have 5 or 6 of them right here.

I've started making the switch to all cnc toolheads with the Threaded priming station anyway
Thats strange. I have old RL1050 toolheads, S1050 toolheads and a 6 month old 1100. The hole above the priming station on any of them isnt threaded at all.

The one CP-2000 toolhead I have is threaded.

If I didnt have a dozen 1050/1100 toolheads I would make the conversion to cnc toolheads.
 
Thats strange. I have old RL1050 toolheads, S1050 toolheads and a 6 month old 1100. The hole above the priming station on any of them isnt threaded at all.

The one CP-2000 toolhead I have is threaded.

If I didnt have a dozen 1050/1100 toolheads I would make the conversion to cnc toolheads.

I think your misunderstanding what I'm saying.. I'm not saying the hole in factory dillon toolheads are Threaded. They are not as you know.. it's a smaller diameter smooth wall hole.. Everglades armory makes a good down thst installs in thst non Threaded hole. Older rl1050 toolheads have a smaller diameter hole above priming station so the everglades hold down will not fit in that hole without modification... it fits in the slightly larger super 1050 and rl1100 hole...

Cnc toolheads above priming station are threaded..


 
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I think your misunderstanding what I'm saying.. I'm not saying the hole in factory dillon toolheads are Threaded. They are not as you know.. it's a smaller diameter smooth wall hole.. Everglades armory makes a good down thst installs in thst non Threaded hole. Older rl1050 toolheads have a smaller diameter hole above priming station so the everglades hold down will not fit in that hole without modification... it fits in the slightly larger super 1050 and rl1100 hole...

Cnc toolheads above priming station are threaded..


Ahhhh. Now I get it.

I havent used a hold down at the priming station. Maybe one day I will give it a try.
 
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Just spent 3 hours this morning cleaning one of my S1050 and getting it setup to handle 6BRA and Dasher rounds. Found all the parts I needed out several conversion kits. The only parts I still need is the 6BR powder funnel, and the EC powder funnel that sets on top of the dillon powder die. This should cut my time at the reloading in half. I will take pics once I get the stuff I just ordered.
 
Just spent 3 hours this morning cleaning one of my S1050 and getting it setup to handle 6BRA and Dasher rounds. Found all the parts I needed out several conversion kits. The only parts I still need is the 6BR powder funnel, and the EC powder funnel that sets on top of the dillon powder die. This should cut my time at the reloading in half. I will take pics once I get the stuff I just ordered.
How are you dropping 6mm bullets?