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Duracoat vs Cerakote C Series

Mauser06

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 28, 2020
299
167
NW Pennsylvania
Have a few projects I'd like to coat.

I own an air compressor and not opposed to buying a blasting gun and airbrush to do my own projects.

I have enough ideas already that I could easily start saving money opposed to professional services even with buying an airbrush and blasting gun.


I am looking at a few different projects. First is the barrel on my first precision rifle build. Just barrel and brake. Action is nitrided.

Next is a Kimber Montana stock and barreled action. Heavy use hunting rifle and I don't care for their stainless finish or the blue stock.


Next is a S&A J frame back-up gun. The aluminum finish is wearing off.


I don't know what'll be better. Cerakote C or Duracoat.

If I go with Cerakote, I might go with H series on the J frame. I can do that in my oven...but I'm not putting Kevlar fiberglass stocks in there.


Any argument for Duracoat or Cerakote? Anything else to look at for at home application? Leaning towards Cerakote. Seems like Duracoat goes on heavier. I have a G19 slide Cerakoted and it's proven itself to me.


I'd imagine it'll be something I use more often if I have it available. Some stuff I'd do just because I can and it won't cost what it would for me to have done.


Thanx!
 
I've used both, as well as gunkote, Brownells Teflon/moly and alumahyde. I have also bead-blasted all of the above off various parts over the years.

It's pretty obvious which is more durable when you bead-blast parts. Cerakote takes more time and effort to blast off than any of the others mentioned. I'm not saying that cerakote is hard to remove when blasting, but it's clearly harder than the others.
 
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That's good info! I appreciate it!

I'm probably going to go with Cerakote. Doesnt seem overly difficult to work with and from everything I've seen, it's probably the most durable coating to do at home. I do have a G19 slide that was done and I haven't gotten it to show any where...I am pretty impressed by it lasting like it has as I've holster worn finish off a couple pistols.
 
For colors and durability- Cerakote

For pure durability- Norells Molly resin - many new guns are coated with this product

For Easy Peasy- Lemon Squeezy- Brownells Rattle Can's of Alumnahyde
Good abrasive resistance and solvent resistant

--
I love toys and tools... If you are not going to use the big items... sometimes it makes sense to go easy


These little sprayers are good with a lot of products....


With any paint job- Car- Home- Kitchen cabinets - firearms- prep is the biggest item of concern....


If you don't prep the surface to be painted, the results will either look poor or the product will not stick...

One can get a good finish with 3m auto body scrub pads, MEK and a simple preval $10 sprayer...





If baking in the over- I recommend two things
1- use the heavy duty lye cleaner on the stove a few days ahead of time. Wife will be happy and you wont get oils burning off during baking

2- Wife or SO should not be anywhere near your home :)
 
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Hermosabeach, thanx for the detailed reply!!


Had no idea about this cans...that's pretty slick.


I actually own an air compressor and considering buying a media blaster and an airbrush.


I already have a few projects in mind. And with the equipment, I bet I find more projects and uses for the blaster and airbrush.


From other reading on Cerakote application, seems I can get both tools reasonably priced.
 
I like Cerakote on metal and Duracoat on fiberglass. I use the same equipment for applying both without issue. Acetone cleans them both up really well.

Duracoat on the bolt gun stock, Cerakote on the Mk18:

DBC30B2B-4A0E-45E2-BA4F-12FAFFD802C6.jpeg

24F9260E-30B9-4214-AAEB-A352D4931E68.jpeg
 
Duracoat sir.
 

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