• The Shot You’ll Never Forget Giveaway - Enter To Win A Barrel From Rifle Barrel Blanks!

    Tell us about the best or most memorable shot you’ve ever taken. Contest ends June 13th and remember: subscribe for a better chance of winning!

    Join contest Subscribe

Frame for steel targets?

Wannashootit

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Sep 3, 2010
    2,262
    569
    FL
    Did a search that came up with everything but...
    I'm going to purchase some AR500, 3/8" plates but need a frame to hang them (chains). I do light welding, and there's a scrap metal yard up the street so materials aren't a problem. Are 3/8" plates suitable for .308/.223 at 200 yards min?

    Looking for quick and dirty design suggestions, I'm sure many of you have done it..
    Three shooters (myself and my two sons)- should I make three individual frames, or one long one suitable to hang three plates?

    Thanks in advance for any help...
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    3/8" cold-rolled bent into a square cornered "U" shape. Weld on the chains, hang targets via "S" hooks. We grind a point onto the open ends of the "U" so they stick into the ground more easily. We used 10" lengths and made them 24" across the bottom of the "U". I believe they were under $10ea and took about 10min to make.
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Great idea- simple and cheap. Thanks.
    BTW- did you mean 10 <span style="font-style: italic">foot</span> lengths?

    M45-
    Really nice work, and professional result.
    Need something quick and dirty for the short term- but when I have more time a few of those would make a nice project.
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Even cheaper and easier. No welding or anything. I have been using this setup all summer and no problems.

    Materials:
    5- 4' lengths of rebar (medium gauge)
    2- 10" lengths of 2x4 lumber
    Drill and Bits

    I made an "a" frame for my steel by drawing the angle that I wanted the legs on the 2x4. Took the drill and drilled about 3/4 of the width of the 2" side. Drilled another hole for the crossbar on the 4" side and done. Made sure the holes were just slightly larger than the rebar. Instant A frame.

    Chain and S hooks for steel. Set the legs out so they put pressure on the cross bar and it won't move. Very portable. Runs about....$10 (if you have to buy the wood...lol)

    LD
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Start with 10' cold rolled rods. The "U" ends up being 2' wide and 4' high. Gives you plenty to stick into the ground and be stable while keeping the targets up above any higher grass etc.
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    I've seen some targets with hooks already cut into the shape on each side for hanging chain. I'm assuming you can't drill this hardened steel (for bolts), right?
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Here's what I came up with. 2pcs 5'x3/8 rebar bent/welded around a 1/2 schedule 40 22" pipe.

    Push them in the ground 8-12". Shot them at 200-500yds. Seem to hold up well. Hit them dead center the steel will do a 360.

    2" tie-down strap cut up for a hanger. Haven't hit the hangers yet.

    steelstand002.jpg
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Can't cypher from your post whether your target/frame needs are portable, or permanent installations.

    Our stuff is permanent fixture and we have them at 400, 500, 600, 700, and a little bitty Humbler at 725. This spring we are gonna do a little firewood cutting and open up 1K +. What works the best for us is of course plates hung from chain, but our "frames" are plain old T-posts that we drive in the ground with a third T-post fixed horizontally/level to the two uprights and wired in place with a hefty/tight lashing of mechanics wire.

    This is the easiest set up for us to maintain in the field; and is the cheapest, yet sturdiest, thing for us to use since T-posts and mechanics wire are all over the farm anyway. No need to drag my welder out there on the range if we happen to damage a frame....just walk out there with plyers, a roll of wire, and a new T-post.

    As stated our stuff is permanent and it needs to not only endure a large volume of bullet impact, but the cattle are rough on stuff too. If it's there, they will knock it over.

    One note about using the horiztonal T-post part of our frames, that we like, is that with the "keeper bumps" on the posts that are there for running fence wire/installing insulators, the hanging chain will not slip over them......which easily keeps your plates centered between the uprights. Nothing more agravating than having your steel slip over to the side and get hung on the upright part of the frame.
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Yeah, sorry- should have specified. Portable. We have a 200 yd range at the club, but it's BYOT...

    What's the best way to "size" them?
    Do you go with the minimum size for the accuracy you want- say, you want min 3 moa, and you're shooting at 200 yards- do you use a miniscule 6" plate...

    Or, do you use a larger one to help with sighting "misses"?
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    With this current set of steel we have the first three swingers being life size groundhogs in the standing up alert position, tall and skinny. Our range is in a holler leading up into a ridge where the targets are spread out, but it's not really protected from the wind as only the first 200 yards is slightly protected by a wooded hillside. Flags have shown 3 or 4 different wind directions at the same time, at various ranges. Wind, of any sort will phuck you on the groundhogs if you're not reading it. We take a lot of head shots, and of course center mass body shots on them. It's either pass or fail.

    The 700 yard target is a 14" circle that we just bang at, and when it's freshly painted I usually make a center hit and then stack shots in a group. "Misses" are easy to see high, low, left or right. The wind on that ridge face is the worst despite it being perfectly calm at the firing line.

    The 725 is a steel circle about the size of a cantaloupe, The Humbler. There's a few trees over on that hillside so picking your hole through the swaying branches on a windy day there, adds to the fun.

    Forgot about the 10" circle we have up close at the 300 yard mark that we rattle the M4's at.

    Of course we can move to anywhere we want on the range and shoot any distance we want. We can shoot uphill, level, or downhill. We shoot a lot of oddball yardages to force us into using the range dope, instead of just getting used to shooting from one place. The max we get right now from the lower gate is the 700/725. When the kids go with us we move up so we are shooting in the 300, 400, 500-ish yardages.

    We don't care much about target size, it's where you hit it that counts, and that you can shoot in the conditions for that day..........
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Man, must be nice for you guys that don't have to drive an hour each way, just to find a place to shoot a lousy 100 yards...
    To go further, it's a two hour drive each way. Not conducive to trigger time...

    I'm jealous...sometimes I wish I lived out "there"...
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Well, it ain't all peaches and cream. A beer/pizza run to town is an hour round trip, and that's just driving time.

    But on the other hand, it's quiet out here, everyone knows everyone else and watches each other's backs, crime is nearly non-existant....and the shooting range is a mere couple hundred yards up the road at the cattle gate. Around here the neighbors start asking questions if they DON'T hear any regular gunfire.

    Sorry, but I can't envy y'all there in Suburbia USA............
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Try to stay away from hanging the steel on chain. I have found that one,if you put the steel out at unknown diss.you can hit the chain and it will give you a false impact. Two, the chain can't take the impact of two many hits. I switched all my hard ware to old tires or tow straps. Bullets go right through.

    On the Frames i just welded some 3/4 round stock into a A frame. Than took some 3/4 id tube and welded it to the top of the A frame.Than made a cross bar out of 3/4 round stock. Than drilled 1/2" holes through the tube and and the cross bar. The 1/2" holes is where you will put the bolts that will hold the straps and hold the two a frames together. To make them taller I just welded some rebar to the legs.

     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Here is a better pic. You should also try to make it to one of our monthly steel shoots at Manatee Gun club. Just check the member link up in the fourm topics

    IMG00102-20100612-1732.jpg
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    Here was my solution a folding sawhorse from home depot.
    097.jpg

    070.jpg



    The link to my Folding steel target hanger write-up

    I now have 3 of them and switched to chains. I have used them several times in the mountains and like the ability to change the leg length from front to back in order to allow placement on a steep slope while maintaining plenty of stability.
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DirtDart</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Try to stay away from hanging the steel on chain. I have found that one,if you put the steel out at unknown diss.you can hit the chain and it will give you a false impact.

    </div></div>

    Wow....just wow.
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    I switched all my steel targets to old tow strap/ Webbing. We were able to get the strap to fail after 1400 rounds of 223 and 50 rounds of 308 at 50 yards.

    To make the holes the size I needed , I took the same bolt, heated it red hot and melted the correct size hole through the webbing.

    I've tried chain, and got horrible results.
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WannashootitAre</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> 3/8" plates suitable for .308/.223 at 200 yards min?</div></div>

    3/8" AR500 is plenty for those calibers at that distance, you can bring them in much closer than that if you desire.

    I'll be happy to help you out with the targets when you are ready!
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guess learning to shoot is out of the question..... </div></div>

    Now, now....lol

    It is usually the buddies one invites over that shoot the chain, not the owner of the targets.
    wink.gif
     
    Re: Frame for steel targets?

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dpreston</div><div class="ubbcode-body">those sawhorses are a great idea! </div></div>

    Yeah, they are...
    Just so happens that I have a half dozen of them already for the jobsites. Adjustable for height and slope if necessary- great idea. I can weld chains to them, they fold for transport and even have a carry handle! They present a little bigger "target" for bad shots, but as noted above, the idea is to not miss by that much
    smile.gif


    I like it!