I just purchased a used G29. The gun looks almost new. I took it out today for the first time and it would not completely cycle the slid with factory or reloads.it would do this maybe every 15 rounds. All I have to do is use my thumb to push the slide the last 1/8 in to close a reset the trigger. It has an SS guide rod. I think it might be the problem. It was installed when I purchased. So I have no idea of maker or weight. Should I return the pistol or make them buy a new factory guide rod to see if it fixes the problem? Or has anybody else had this problem and how did you fix it?
Sidearms & Scatterguns Glock problem
- Thread starter Jrb572
- Start date
Are you using an agressive grip while shooting? I ask because when I made the transition into the pistol world, I had a tendency to limp wrist it and my pistols would frequently have out of battery malfunctions just like you're describing.
Getting more agressive with your grip and recoil control will be a cheap/easy alternative to rule out before adressing the guide rod.
Getting more agressive with your grip and recoil control will be a cheap/easy alternative to rule out before adressing the guide rod.
Glock pistols generally don't get along with steel guide rods. Call Glock and see if they will send you a stock gr.
Also, did it come with the box? Original part may be in there. BTW, if the guide rod was changed what else might have been?
Had a guy on my range who's 10mm went full auto after someone did a dremel tool gunsmith job on it. He had just purchased it used. That was not even funny.
Also, did it come with the box? Original part may be in there. BTW, if the guide rod was changed what else might have been?
Had a guy on my range who's 10mm went full auto after someone did a dremel tool gunsmith job on it. He had just purchased it used. That was not even funny.
+1 on stock guide rod
Disagree with aftermarket guide rod being a problem. MOST G20s and G29s have them, because the stock 17lb spring is dreadfully weak for even factory loads.
How much force does it take to finish putting the cartridge into battery?
Does it seem to want to hang up when you cycle the slide without ammo?
How much force does it take to finish putting the cartridge into battery?
Does it seem to want to hang up when you cycle the slide without ammo?
The recoil spring weight is important, that new guide rod is ok but the spring weight has to be the right weight. I think I would start with the factory set up and see how it works. Part of the problem with glocks is the amount of after market products that people feel the need to replace the stock ones. I was a glock hater for a long time, but after shooting and owning a half dozen they are growing on me! And the balance of parts in the gun are crucial to reliability. Get a stock spring and guide rod, see how it functions and then decide.
What I was going to say. Sounds like someone did some spring lightening on the recoil spring when they installed the SS guide rod. A factory set up would be a good place to start.
I worked in the armory and had two that came in with the same problem. Each had a different cause. The first was the guide rod it was factory but the pistol was a gen 2 and had been shot alot and the spring weakined. The other was because the officer fell in some sand. The sand got in behide the shell extractor and extractor spring limiting spring back so when the side went forward the extractor couldn't move over the rim of the round. Could be either. Call glock they are helpful when I get stumped on a problem
Oh yeah and if you want to know if the spring is weak. Glock teaches it's armorers to push the side forward ( on an empty chamber) pull the trigger. Then easily pull the side back a half an inch to an inch and let the side go forward ON ITS OWN if it locks all the way you are G2G if not it's the spring. Clean the gun first
^^^^ This, and yes you keep the trigger depressed. Barrel should be pointed up at a 45-60 degree angle as well.
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I would rip out any 3rd party parts on any Glock. I'm all for customizing guns (1911s etc) but I feel a Glock should be run stock (with the exception for a Vickers extended mag release).
I have seen this type of an issue with aftermarket guide rods and recoil spring than anyone should. Install a factory recoil spring assembly and I'm pretty sure your issue will go away.
A steel guide rod buys you nothing but grief.
A steel guide rod buys you nothing but grief.
I had a similar problem when I started shooting Glocks. My grip caused my thumb to put side pressure on the slide. That slowed it down enough to keep it from returning back to battery. I could barely feel it when I was doing it. My shooting buddy diagnosed the problem and I changed my grip.
I am not sure that I agree that aftermarket guide rods are a problem. Not having the correct spring weight is a problem but not a rod that doesn't move and really doesn't have any effect on the spring other than keeping it from kinking up. Just my thoughts.
Guns
I am not sure that I agree that aftermarket guide rods are a problem. Not having the correct spring weight is a problem but not a rod that doesn't move and really doesn't have any effect on the spring other than keeping it from kinking up. Just my thoughts.
Guns
I forgot about the 45-60 degree angle thing good looking out.
Welcome to the 10mm Cult! I carry my G20 in a shoulder rig and I feel very safe with 31 rounds of full power 10mm with me. Go stock. It will run like a champ. If you reload use gold medal Federal primers. All I did to my G20 was Ghost Ultimate connector and a Ghost "bullet" slide stop.
keep the glock's as stock as possible, several of my friends learned that one the hard and expensive way.
It is why we are here. You had him headed in the right direction though.
OP- did you also get a new recoil spring? That is the bigger problem compared to the guide rod.
I would be wary to send it to Glock with aftermarket parts in it. To get a feeling for Glock's view of aftermarket parts know that they will revoke armorer status for any Glock certified armorer that puts in non-Glock parts or modifies Glock parts. I don't want them screwing you out of warranty or anything.
Have been a GLOCK armorer for the SO here for about 2 years, never had a problem with steel guide rods, only springs. I will go so far as to upload a dummy round from the magazine and let the slide chamber it for the last 1/4 inch at a 60 degree angle to see if the spring is too weak.
One more thing to watch especially the 20, when the locking block becomes worn from the barrel lock, there will be wear marks on the underside of the slide right above the locking block, just replace the locking block. I always take a permanent marker and cover the wear marks on the slide after the replacement and check them after a magazine or so.
One more thing to watch especially the 20, when the locking block becomes worn from the barrel lock, there will be wear marks on the underside of the slide right above the locking block, just replace the locking block. I always take a permanent marker and cover the wear marks on the slide after the replacement and check them after a magazine or so.
It's good you got everything ironed out. Glocks usually start acting up when their owners start trying to "improve them", by adding a bunch of shiny, expensive aftermarket parts.
Yikes I bet that was one hell of a handfull!!
What about tungsten?
