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Night Vision Hail Hydra! Battle of the Dualies!

TheHorta

Nest-stirring pot-poker.
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Jan 17, 2014
    4,843
    13,253
    NO AL
    Most people are blissfully unaware that Hortas have 5 heads. While you inferior carbon-based life forms talk about “Dual Band” sillyness, we silica-based superior beings are Pentacephalous.

    So, in figuring out which dual-optic solution works best, I submit the following:

    B7520EE7-E865-480B-8AAA-E4E76193DB8E.jpeg

    397A28F2-008B-446F-845A-43054B628FBC.jpeg


    Of course, the Apex Predator of dual-optic solutions are dual SkeetIR-X’s on the KVC bridge. This solution makes you Heimdahl — nothing escapes your gaze.

    Just to the right (counter-clockwise) are DTNVGs with matched >2500 FOM L3 Filmless WPs with custom $3K RPO optics, with a PAS-29A COTI riding shotgun. Even this pimped-out setup can’t come close to dual Skeets. In fact, nothing comes close to dual Skeets.

    Continuing CCW are dual high-FOM WP PVS-14’s on the high-end ModArmory bridge. While they’re heavy and not collimated, they work great as dual tubes for the poors. They’re not going to put you far behind my $15K set of DT’s.

    At the 12:00 position are a set of vaunted, legit L3 PVS-31A’s — full meal deal MIN 2376 FOM factory units with battery back. I know some aren’t big fans, but I love them. They’re the truth, and since I have better than 20/20 in both eyes, I don’t need diopters.

    Last, but certainly not least, are a gorgeous set of AVS/Anvis-6. I’ve had both Anvis-9’s and 6’s — ditched the 9’s and kept the 6’s, so that should say something. Many mistakenly believe the 9’s are newer or somehow better than the 6’s because, well, 9 is bigger than 6. Alas, the only difference between the two are the type of lenses employed. 9’s have non-translating objectives, meaning when you focus them, the entire lens/optics pod rotates. With the 6’s, the non-translating objectives do NOT rotate when focusing, meaning if you have a COTI attached, it will NOT rotate when focusing.

    All-in-all, dual Skeets are what I wear every night. I feel naked running DT’s or 31A’s, even with a COTI attached. What I cannot see using lowly NV or NV/COTI is staggering. I hike, walk, and drive with Skeets, no problem (split windscreen in the Ranger). Were I taking a NV class or kicking doors, sure, NV would be the way to go. But for every single thing I do, dual Skeetahs make this silly-con life form feel all warm and gooey inside.
     
    where are the other two pairs of skeets?
     
    All-in-all, dual Skeets are what I wear every night. I feel naked running DT’s or 31A’s, even with a COTI attached. What I cannot see using lowly NV or NV/COTI is staggering. I hike, walk, and drive with Skeets, no problem (split windscreen in the Ranger). Were I taking a NV class or kicking doors, sure, NV would be the way to go. But for every single thing I do, dual Skeetahs make this silly-con life form feel all warm and gooey inside.


    Is this what you were wearing when you wrecked the Ranger into the ditch? :rolleyes:
     
    Im jealous. .
    But since i have one working eye its overkill for me.

    If I turn off the lights can you guys tell how many FINGER im holding up?
     
    If you ever want to dial in those dual -14’s together (or any articulating NV), loosen the eyepiece lock collars, flip up one, find a bright star, and turn the eyepiece until the star is level (ETA: with your unaided eye).
    Repeat other eye and lock in the collars. Quick and easy DIY collimation and works awesome. 👍
     
    Last edited:
    I will say this, my pimped DTNVGs outperform my PVS-31A’s. There is slight optical distortion in the 31A’s. It’s not bad, but it’s there if you look for it. With the RPO optics, there is absolutely zero distortion in the DT’s.

    The DT’s are eye-bleedingly sharp. The level of detail is superior in the DT’s. Contrast is superior as well. I think the tubes are probably very similarly spec’d, since both are equipped with L3 filmless WPs.

    The 31’s are bad-ass. The weight, form factor, manual gain, battery pack, IPD reset, etc are awesome and second to none. That said, my DT’s aren’t that far behind, and they’re optically superior — which is where the rubber meets the road. The perceived sharpness may have to do with the lack of diopters on the 31’s, but I doubt that has anything to do with the distortion, but it could have to do with the slight contrast deficit.

    I’d love to compare another set of 31’s and DTNVGs (or others, like BNVD’s, etc).
     
    • Like
    Reactions: TNVC_Will
    Most people are blissfully unaware that Hortas have 5 heads. While you inferior carbon-based life forms talk about “Dual Band” sillyness, we silica-based superior beings are Pentacephalous.

    So, in figuring out which dual-optic solution works best, I submit the following:

    View attachment 7463091
    View attachment 7463092

    Of course, the Apex Predator of dual-optic solutions are dual SkeetIR-X’s on the KVC bridge. This solution makes you Heimdahl — nothing escapes your gaze.

    Just to the right (counter-clockwise) are DTNVGs with matched >2500 FOM L3 Filmless WPs with custom $3K RPO optics, with a PAS-29A COTI riding shotgun. Even this pimped-out setup can’t come close to dual Skeets. In fact, nothing comes close to dual Skeets.

    Continuing CCW are dual high-FOM WP PVS-14’s on the high-end ModArmory bridge. While they’re heavy and not collimated, they work great as dual tubes for the poors. They’re not going to put you far behind my $15K set of DT’s.

    At the 12:00 position are a set of vaunted, legit L3 PVS-31A’s — full meal deal MIN 2376 FOM factory units with battery back. I know some aren’t big fans, but I love them. They’re the truth, and since I have better than 20/20 in both eyes, I don’t need diopters.

    Last, but certainly not least, are a gorgeous set of AVS/Anvis-6. I’ve had both Anvis-9’s and 6’s — ditched the 9’s and kept the 6’s, so that should say something. Many mistakenly believe the 9’s are newer or somehow better than the 6’s because, well, 9 is bigger than 6. Alas, the only difference between the two are the type of lenses employed. 9’s have non-translating objectives, meaning when you focus them, the entire lens/optics pod rotates. With the 6’s, the non-translating objectives do NOT rotate when focusing, meaning if you have a COTI attached, it will NOT rotate when focusing.

    All-in-all, dual Skeets are what I wear every night. I feel naked running DT’s or 31A’s, even with a COTI attached. What I cannot see using lowly NV or NV/COTI is staggering. I hike, walk, and drive with Skeets, no problem (split windscreen in the Ranger). Were I taking a NV class or kicking doors, sure, NV would be the way to go. But for every single thing I do, dual Skeetahs make this silly-con life form feel all warm and gooey inside.
    And everyone wonders why there is a shortage of NV. :LOL:

    Residents of Hortaville are hording. :LOL:
     
    • Haha
    Reactions: TheHorta
    The 31’s are bad-ass. The weight, form factor, manual gain, battery pack, IPD reset, etc are awesome and second to none. That said, my DT’s aren’t that far behind, and they’re optically superior — which is where the rubber meets the road. The perceived sharpness may have to do with the lack of diopters on the 31’s, but I doubt that has anything to do with the distortion, but it could have to do with the slight contrast deficit.

    I’d love to compare another set of 31’s and DTNVGs (or others, like BNVD’s, etc).

    I’m glad you, someone w experience w lots of different nvgs, likes them. I was able to order the filmless high fom 1531s w battery pack and was told to save up and get something else from Sam. I liked them bc they had the pvs 14 parts per se.

    For the price I got them for, no dealer could come close. Dec/Jan can’t come fast enough.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: TheHorta
    If you ever want to dial in those dual -14’s together (or any articulating NV), loosen the eyepiece lock collars, flip up one, find a bright star, and turn the eyepiece until the star is level (ETA: with your unaided eye).
    Repeat other eye and lock in the collars. Quick and easy DIY collimation and works awesome. 👍

    Another way to do it is set up a red dot in front of a riflescope with adjustable parallax. Adjust the parallax away, zero the optics to cowitness. Look through with your PVS14 and rotate the eyepiece until it's as close to center as available. Make a witness mark with a paint marker, and lock down the lock collar.

    I will say this, my pimped DTNVGs outperform my PVS-31A’s. There is slight optical distortion in the 31A’s. It’s not bad, but it’s there if you look for it. With the RPO optics, there is absolutely zero distortion in the DT’s.

    The DT’s are eye-bleedingly sharp. The level of detail is superior in the DT’s. Contrast is superior as well. I think the tubes are probably very similarly spec’d, since both are equipped with L3 filmless WPs.

    The 31’s are bad-ass. The weight, form factor, manual gain, battery pack, IPD reset, etc are awesome and second to none. That said, my DT’s aren’t that far behind, and they’re optically superior — which is where the rubber meets the road. The perceived sharpness may have to do with the lack of diopters on the 31’s, but I doubt that has anything to do with the distortion, but it could have to do with the slight contrast deficit.

    I’d love to compare another set of 31’s and DTNVGs (or others, like BNVD’s, etc).

    The diopter eye piece is a shitty plastic sac lens, maybe taking it off will help? It's set to -0.5 from the factory too. I never noticed distortion but i never had anything comparable to side by side it with
     
    • Like
    Reactions: TheHorta
    The diopter eye piece is a shitty plastic sac lens, maybe taking it off will help? It's set to -0.5 from the factory too. I never noticed distortion but i never had anything comparable to side by side it with

    Yeah, I think they’re made of butter. I can scuff it with a fingernail.
     
    I went to the range earlier this week with my 5500 dollar 22 feeling less than poor.
    Then you post this and send me right back to the poors.
    You guys rock .
    I will go be poor somewhere else now.
     
    • Haha
    Reactions: Bender
    @TheHorta I'm intrigued by the dual Skeet proposition. Noober-doober questions if you do not mind!..
    1. Are both device displays identical to one another? (Is there any imaging "differences" between different physical devices?)
    2. Is there any focal / parallax type issues? (e.g., is there a min focus distance .. and can they focus clearly at low mag looking at the ground directly under your feet?) .. I noticed the HALO-LR was fairly useless under ~15-20m
     
    @TheHorta I'm intrigued by the dual Skeet proposition. Noober-doober questions if you do not mind!..
    1. Are both device displays identical to one another? (Is there any imaging "differences" between different physical devices?)
    2. Is there any focal / parallax type issues? (e.g., is there a min focus distance .. and can they focus clearly at low mag looking at the ground directly under your feet?) .. I noticed the HALO-LR was fairly useless under ~15-20m

    There is noticeable variation between some Skeet diplays. I’ve had probably 6 of the things and my Skeet bino setup is near perfectly matched. The differences are in color tone, where some can have a slight sepia tinge while others are cooler. The two I have now are cool and near perfectly matched. The other difference is in menu location. Even though all of the Skeets I have are software v5.5, the menu location varies noticeably between the two I’m running as binos. But for normal use, it’s no big deal.

    The Skeets can focus VERY close. I can focus on my outstretched hand and it’ll be razor sharp. Of course, something a foot behind my hand is very out of focus. I set mine at 200 yards. Everything from 5 yards to infinity is clear.
     
    • Love
    Reactions: MtnGhost