Has any one removed a barrel from their 7.62 LaRue OBR? If so what did you use to remove the barrel nut? I called LaRue and they said it is a proprietary design and a standard DPMS barrel nut wrench will not work. Please help as I am trying to have the gun ready to shoot this weekend.
- Thread starter 5Rsniper
- Start date
From what I understand its nothing more than a large bronze hex nut. Shpuld be able to us a large spanner.
I need to see a pic of this bronze hex nut.
Im imagining some kind of big plumbing type bronze hex nut like I used on my toilet a few weeks ago. For all of Mark Larue's machining "genius" he uses something you can get from home depot to secure his barrels to the receiver. GENIUS...
Looks like its different on the obr.
Altbough it would apprear a normal ar wrench would work.
For post 762, I give you... cerakote, 300blk, & general debauchery - AR15.COM
Altbough it would apprear a normal ar wrench would work.
For post 762, I give you... cerakote, 300blk, & general debauchery - AR15.COM
The PredatOBR uses a proprietary wrench to engage multiple cutouts in the barrel nut. That system works great and with only about 1/8" turn to secure it. I would tell you I prefer if it had some sort of click to indicate it is indexed completely but I have yet to see a POI shift that bothered my 300yd shots. I've since left my barrel attached and am now shooting to 600 and beyond so I wont be testing the POI shift any time soon.
Thank you guys for all the help. I was able to buy a standard .308 AR wrench at Midway USA and got it off. The nut is not actually bronze, I believe it was steel the was either heat treated and turned bronze color or chanced that color over use. The barrel is a press fit into the upper receiver so once the nut comes off the real work begins. Also, most every part in the bolt carrier assembly is not standard so don't expect to easily switch the bolt out that may come with the new barrel. I have worked on a great deal of AR rifles and this barrel swap has been the most challenging of any gun build. I do not recommend this to any novice but if anyone wants the full details on how to do it, just let me know. I may also loan some out some of the necessary tools.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
I wanted to install a 18" Noveske match barrel on my Larue PredatAR. I took it apart but could not get the barrel off the upper assembly. After additional research, it looks like the Noveske barrel is not compatible with the Larue 7.62 upper. Is this true?
I since, put the rifle back together due to not being able to remove the barrel. Can you give me some suggestions on how to get the barrel off?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you - Rossman18
I since, put the rifle back together due to not being able to remove the barrel. Can you give me some suggestions on how to get the barrel off?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you - Rossman18
Where you able to remove the barrel nut? The barre is an extremely tight fit into the upper receiver so it will need to be pressed out our a lot of tapping in the correct location. The barrel on my OBR was a standard size and the JP Precision barrel fit fine once pressed in. I heated the upper and put the barrel in the freezer to make it easier to assemble but it was not easy. Good luck.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Larue .308 P'tOBR barrel nut:
The wrench:
The .308 OBR and .308 PredatAR both use a conventional format AR' barrel nut. The color is from the heat treatment.
The wrench:
The .308 OBR and .308 PredatAR both use a conventional format AR' barrel nut. The color is from the heat treatment.
Yes, the barrel nut came off easily. I used a AR-10 four prong barrel nut wrench. As for the barrel, I tried tapping, pulling, a bit of heat, etc. it would not budge. So, the problem is the tight fit barrel. If I could get a tip on removing it, I would appreciate it.
Thank you again for the help.
Thank you again for the help.
Put the action in the freezer overnight, then warm the receiver up with a heat gun where the barrel is inserted. Cold-shrink should loosen the barrel.
The cooling and heating trick should work well but you will also need something to tap or press out the barrel. I used a steel rod that was just a little smaller diameter than where the barrel fits into the receiver. You will want to make sure the flange is supported and flat so it will not crack when tapping or pressing the barrel out. I will be glad to loan the rod I used to you or anyone attempting a barrel removal. Just PM me your info and I will send it your way.
Also, when installing the new barrel I cooled the barrel in the freezer for about 45min and heated the upper receiver in the oven at 200 degrees F for about 30 min. This was not enough for an easy slip fit. It slid on about half way and then locked up like a SOB! I then had to use a rubber mallet to tap ....... ok beat the barrel into location. After that all went together fairly well. You may want to verify that your gas block fits correctly without contact before tightening all of the bolts in the hand guard.
Pictures of the steel rod I used next to the barrel, one of the finished rifle and one of my first 5 shot group at 617 yds with it....... I'm loving the 6.5 Creedmoor!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Also, when installing the new barrel I cooled the barrel in the freezer for about 45min and heated the upper receiver in the oven at 200 degrees F for about 30 min. This was not enough for an easy slip fit. It slid on about half way and then locked up like a SOB! I then had to use a rubber mallet to tap ....... ok beat the barrel into location. After that all went together fairly well. You may want to verify that your gas block fits correctly without contact before tightening all of the bolts in the hand guard.
Pictures of the steel rod I used next to the barrel, one of the finished rifle and one of my first 5 shot group at 617 yds with it....... I'm loving the 6.5 Creedmoor!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Attachments
Similar threads
