• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

HELP - high bullet runout

gafferq2xl

Trigger Ape
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
May 7, 2006
880
32
Wichita, KS
I just loaded some once fired BHM w/178 Amax in a Forrester coax and Redding mic seater. I rotate the case twice and progresively seat the bullet. Brass is fully preped. Runout is anywhere from .003 (only a few this low) to .007, most are about .005-comments?
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I have had some trouble with that. I tried a different shell holder. Also you might want to take a look at your bullet seating stem and give a cleanig.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

Didn't consider the shell holder...it's worked fine for loading my 243 but, maybe the die aligns better??

I'll pull the die apart and give it a clean and retry.

Thanks
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Curious_1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What kind of sizer you using? </div></div>

Forester BR FL. The brass was shot from a Savage 10FP and the neck was so blown out I couldn't use a bushing die.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I like to keep everything really clean too. I take a q-tip and dig into the groves in the shell holder top and bottom and the ram on my press.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I would check neck thickness inconsistancies first, then check runout at sizing stage before looking for a problem at the seating stage.
My 7WSM had runout issues that you have, the necks were skim turned and runout went from .007 to less than .003.
I found runout during sizing decreased when expander ball was very clean and inside of necks lubed a little.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

It is probably your expander ball. Size a few cases without it and try the runout compared to the cases sized with an expander ball. You may need to get a mandrel to size the id. Forrester will hone your die for 10 bucks. You can have it honed to size just under your required grip and bump it the rest of the way with a mandrel. This will take longer but is the only way short of a bushing die and turning all your brass.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

Thanks guys. Will do some looking into all of your suggestions.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

You stated the brass was fully preped. Does that include cleaning the case necks inside? A lot of times that gets overlooked.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

Fair enough question, I run a .30 nylon brush inside. Don't really see any effect. What do you use?
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

Have you measured the case runout after sizing?

Did you tighten your dies with a case in it or empty?
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I tried a lot of different things to get rid of bullet run out. Then one day I was discussing my problem with a fellow from Sinclair-and he set me straight.

What I do is not for a high volume reloader.

The first thing is take the expander ball out of the die. The expander ball is the "root of all evil" when it comes to runout.

I purchased the Sinclair neck sizing mandrel die. Yes it is an extra step. However it does not bend the neck. It only sizes the inside of the neck. As long as your sizing die is true-the neck mandrel die will not effect the alignment of the neck. This solved my runout problem.

For higher volume loading I use the Forster FL die, and adjust it to where it just bumps the shoulder, their expander ball system is as good as it gets(IMO), for runout while still using an expander ball.

Also the suggestion above about the shell holder is spot on. Tom.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I had these problems with my .308. Two things, as Hogghead mentioned, I got rid of the expander ball. I started using the Lee collet die and that helped alot. I don't think Lee makes one for a .243 but for less than $20 it's a cheap and easy fix. Sounds like like Sinclair has one. The other thing is the shellholder - mine would wobble alittle. Also, clean it every once in awhile - you could get a kernel of powder or a tiny bit of brass shaving in there that will throw it off. Lastly, look at your loaded round. Does the bullet have scuff marks on one side? My Redding seater had a rough spot in it that would catch and push the bullet in unevenly. I sent it back and they buffed it out. Now I make sure everything is clean (bullets included) to make sure nothing gets into the die. Hope this helps.
Len
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

Check runout on your fired case necks. A misaligned chamber/bolt face/bore will cause a case problem that cannot be straightend out by a sizing die. Clean and smooth the inside of your case necks by wrapping a little bit of 0000 steel wool on your nylon brush and spin it in a drill/drill press while polishing inside the neck. Be sure your chamfer of the case mouth is concentric. Misalignment ...deeper on one side...can cause runout. Lube the inside of the case neck before seating the bullet. I use HxBN suspended in Solox on a Q-Tip. Really reduces the seating effort and helps to reduce runout. JMHO
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

People he has a Co-Ax press, there is no shell holder, the press uses spring loaded jaws that float, and the dies lock with a lock ring, and slide in and out.

Brush clean inside the necks
remove the expander ball
trim the brass to square the neck up
use a vld deburr tool, don't go to deep, nice even cut
check each step to see where the problem is
also use imperial sizing wax on body and neck only, not shoulder

report back please
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

Damn gentlemen and I thought I knew reloading lol. I have been reloading for 35 years and have just learned more in this thread than all those years. Thanks. I collected a new Forester set for my Dillon RL 550B and run out average is .001-.002. I checked this against Black Hills best and came out ahead in actuality a lot of the rounds came out less than one thousands, now if it does that 30 thousand rounds from now I will be a happy camper. Needless to say I went out and bought a Ultra set in .308,30-06, and so on.
Thanks again for all the info, I love this site.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

After thinking for a minute I would like to ask does the neck turning really make a difference? Is it really practical and if so which set or system is preferable. I use Lapua brass and have never had any problems, but I have a lot of Winchester brass I use as well. I am always looking to improve any way I can, and to learn. Do you first buy a measuring device to check to see what variations in the thickness exist, or just turn everything? Thanks for any responses.
Randy
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I could be out of line here because I've never worked with the Co-ax press, BUT if you check your sized brass and there little to no run out in your sized brass, you may want to make sure that your seater Die is square with what ever it is that holds your brass (collet, spring loaded jaws?). With my Rockchucker press this means that when I screw the seater die in I screw it down so that it just touches the shell holder. I then tighten it down so that it stays square with the press and shell holder. Not sure how this will workwith the Co-AX but I am sure there is a similar way to do this with that press.

FWIW, I am one of those "evil" people who still use an expander ball (though, it is a floating carbide expander ball) yet my loads are still consistently under .002 runout.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gafferq2xl</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Fair enough question, I run a .30 nylon brush inside. Don't really see any effect. What do you use? </div></div>

I use a bronze bore brush the caliber of the bullet, ie...308 = 30 cal brush. 243= 6mm / 243 brush. The brushes are mounted in RCBS screwdriver type handles. Give it a twisting push in ... and a twisting pull out. This usually removes all the carbon from inside the case necks. I do a visual before and another after. This usually removes 80% to all the carbon residue. Like your bore brush, when the brush gets loose replace it.

This one step, in the past has taken me from .008" to .002" or less. Tumbling doesn't always get the burnt carbon. This method usually gets almost all of it.

Good luck.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I'm using a Co-Ax as well and found several causes for high runout unrelated to the press but not necessarily different for different calibers as the OP is seeing but thought I'd throw out some observations in case some might help.

BTW, the screws through the jaw hold-down plate should be finger tight only or the jaws can't move freely enough. You can tell if they're too tight if the jaw opening screw is getting chewed up. Had to replace the plate at one point along with the bearing plate under the jaws due to tightening the screws just a bit with a hex key.

Some things that worked and some that didn't in the order (mostly) of discovery (read: stumbling blindly about):

1) With Forster dies very carefully set the height of the expander ball using a pair of dial calipers rather than trying to sight through the hole in the side of the die - slight misadjustment caused large and variable runout.

2) Learned to tighten the stem lock ring only finger tight so it can float on the rubber washer - made a slight but noticeable improvement but didn't come close to fixing the problem. And the decapping pin kept smacking into the side of the flash holes of Lapua brass, no idea why.

3) Had the Forster FL and NK dies factory polished including the expander ball - reduced runout by more than half but still had more fliers than I thought there should've been.

4) A lot of the problem was brass build-up from inadequate lube on Lapua brass (and the reason the dies got sent to Forster in the first place) - learned how to properly use Imperial Die Wax, not as simple as it looked at first as the bottom of the case gets a lot of swaging and needs more lube than you'd think, well more than I thought it would anyway.

5) Forster strongly recommended chamfering prior to sizing. Dented necks made this impossible and I wasn't using a VLD cutter yet. Started using the Lee Collet die first to size the necks (after lots of work to polish the die collet) and then as an expander only to remove dents. Switched to the Sinclair expander mandrel die after the mandrel in the Lee die picked up too much brass even with Imperial Dry Lube on the necks. Learned to get the deburring and VLD chamfering done under power with Sinclair case holding chucks in a power screwdriver and sizing became much easier with much less brass build up on the expander ball. Runout variance tightened up noticeably.

6) Along the way started winding 0000 steel wool around a nylon brush (as someone already mentioned) and using it to polish under power the inside of the necks. Eventually reduced to just smoothing the internal neck surface after VLD chamfering, both prior to sizing and prior to bullet seating after trimming. Sizing force became noticeably more uniform. No significant effect on runout though.

7) Along the way switched to a Wilson trimmer. Whether it helped I couldn't say as it wasn't tested as a separate change in the operation sequence. The Lee trimmer used up to that point seemed OK but if having the case mouth square to the case body axis is important it won't do the trick.

8) Had a problem with the Forster seating die scuffing bullets so sent it in with the finishing reamer used to make the rifle and they made a seater with it that eliminated that problem, cost was like thirty five bucks. Runout didn't change much if any but bullets didn't get scarred up anymore.

9) Changed from VLD chamfer to a caliber diameter Wilson neck reamer prior to seating. Bullet can be set pretty much dead square and seated more uniformly, or at least it makes it a lot easier to get a inline start at seating since the bullet is held tightly by the neck when the case is set in the jaws. Runout didn't change much if any again although it may have tightened up, subjectively anyway. By this point I'd gone through several different ways of measuring 'runout' with a Forster Case Inspector and was convinced none of them provided any meaningful data.

10) Changed the way I was measuring runout while still using the Forster Case Inspector. Picked up a Besttest dial test indicator (+/-0.015"), some swivel clamps, and 1/4" drill rod. Removed the dial indicator from the Case Inspector and attached a short piece of drill rod with a swivel clamp and then attached the Besttest to it with another swivel clamp. Squared it up and set up the cases to indicate on the bullet bearing surface. Added a spacer to remove the spring loading on the case head and set it to ride the vee-block on the web with the bullet tip freely held at the other end so the axis was as visibly level as possible. The nose of the support arbor still has the tit from the cutoff tool and any pressure from the spring loaded base caused the bullet tip to ride off the cradle, disturbing measurements (took a long time to notice this). With almost no radial force applied by the dial test indicator it was possible to slowly spin the round and get a smooth indication of runout relative to the case head which had by this time been reduced to near zero for most rounds with some about half a mil to one and a half mil TIR. It wasn't possible before for me to measure this repeatably with the dial indicator setup but it seemed like it was pretty close to zero except for the number of unexplained fliers. The dial test indicator can be moved along the drill rod and the runout of the case at various points can be measured easily and is helpful in noting case runout can be higher than that on the bearing surface and is slightly dependent on the runout at the point on the case that rides in the vee-block.

FWIW, the dial indicator it came with ended up on a granite base comparator stand which works well with the Case Inspector base and pilot to measure neck thickness more repeatably than before, too.

One last note. I got annoyed at the brass build up from annealed necks on the expander ball on the Forster dies and switched to Redding bushing dies (FL and NK) with the carbide expander ball. The neck isn't overworked as much and the bushings can be changed for Lapua, Win, BH Match, etc. brass thickness which I couldn't do with a single set of honed Forster dies. Runout is still just as low as it was before and just as tight a distribution meaning, to me at least, the most important part of getting low runout appears to be case prep _prior_ to sizing. Kinda what the guys at Forster were trying to tell me to begin with... duh

Yeah, it's a serious pita the first time through but it gets easier although getting the necks sufficiently clean inside can get worse. Switched to bronze brushes for this step and it makes it go a lot faster - the case has to be chucked in the screwdriver anyway so a few swipes with a heavy duty bronze brush in a handle at the end of all the operations is all it takes now. When the brush starts being easier to push into the case mouth it gets replaced.

Spent a lot of time with Starrett small hole gages and a mic, clamped in a stand, checking neck ID before and after sizing, from the mouth to the shoulder and found that different brass puts tension on the bullet at different points and for different lengths of the neck and it depends on how many times it's been fired. But runout doesn't seem to change much if sizing prepped brass.

Probably forgetting some things, hope this is of some help. Oh yeah, no neck turning. All rifle chambers minimum SAAMI so all brass loads safely. Bearing surface of bullet matters most so neck ID runout matters most which is why I use an expander ball and don't depend on neck turning and bushings to keep the neck true. Redding reports the more the neck has to be worked in this way the worse the runout gets. Makes sense to me from what little I've seen so far. But I still can't outshoot the rifle(s) so it really don't matter all that much 'cept being fun.
crazy.gif
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

Guy's, you responses have been overwhelming in a very good way with so much great info.

Well, I started with some basics.

First I cleaned the necks good with a 30 cal. bronze brush.
Next I chamfered the necks, inside and out.
I then checked the setting of the die as I had taken it apart to clean out the factory gunk.
I set the expander to the proper depth per the instructions and gently tightened the retainer.
I measured the brass BEFORE I resized and found a .001-.002 runout. AFTER, it was no more than .001 and most was .0005!
Prior to this it was .004-.005 after resizing.

I think the big things were the cleaning the inside of the neck and chamfering BEFORE resizing. I'm pretty sure I wasn't doing it in that order.

I haven't seated any pills yet but I will update you all when I get the time.

I can't thank you all enough. YOU are what makes the "Hide" so GREAT!!
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I finally got a chance to seat some bullets after refining my case prep. The certainly helped but, I'm still getting as much as .005 runout. Mostly in the .003 range but, as low as .001

I took my Redding Comp seater die apart to inspect and found very distinctive rub marks on the seating cylinder on opposing sides. As a depiction, if the bottom wear mark was on the right then the top would be on the left. Additionally, there is a deep scratch near the top of the cylinder running laterally thats deep enough to easily catch your finger nail on.

Any other input?
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

I noticed something when I size my brass, That is when I run the ram up on my press. When the case starts to engage the die I stop and reverse direction just enouigh to relieve any lateral bind in the casehead shellholder interface and the shellholder and the top of the ram. If you try this and watch what happens you can see things move, allmost self center. I do the same thing when I seat the bullet. Just get it started then back it out of the seating die just a touch and then finish the stroke. There has been alot of good suggestions in this runout thread. I try to build good ammo and when I think my stuff is as good as can make it I shoot better. I think its a mind over matter thing for me.One thing I can say is you can't argue with sucsess. I still get a big rush out of a first round hit on a range and engage steel target out passed 800 yards !!! Good shootin all
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

"Brass is fully preped. Runout is anywhere from .003 (only a few this low) to .007, most are about .005-comments?"

You have a concentricity gage. Have you tested those "fully prepped" necks for runout before they are loaded?
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

Are you lubing the inside of the case neck with either dry lube or some IDW on a swab? Made a difference for me, mainly the latter. The dry lube didn't work so well and was more of a pita. I use wooden handle cotten swabs and a pump dispenser for alcohol, and another for acetone when needed, to easily and quickly remove the lube from the inside of the neck after gaging the round. I don't try to remove it all just most of it. A microfiber cloth easily removes all the IDW on the outside of the case prior to gaging.

Once you get going you can just swipe a finger over the case mouth and get some IDW on the outside and inside of the neck at the same time. Still have to pull the stem from the die after a bit and clean the expander as well as the shoulder/neck junction as you'll notice headspace decreasing when gaging with a Wilson gage, it gets crudded up too and needs to be cleaned at the same time. Dunno if you're going to this level of QA though.

Even with walnut tumbling and then extended corn cob tumbling for polishing (for semi-auto brass) there's still enough crud on the outside of the case to dirty things up after a few hundred rounds, fwiw. And this is after wiping off the cases with a different microfiber cloth prior to sizing so the dust from the tumbling doesn't scratch the die or build up and shift headspacing. Canned air helps to clear the inside of the neck and case too.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: justpete</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are you lubing the inside of the case neck with either dry lube or some IDW on a swab? </div></div>

Remember that any thing that might contaminate the powder should only be used if you are going to shoot the ammo imediately. Using a grease type lubricant on case necks CAN cause the powder burn rate consistancy to change.

Just be careful.
 
Re: HELP - high bullet runout

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: justpete</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are you lubing the inside of the case neck with either dry lube or some IDW on a swab? </div></div>

Remember that any thing that might contaminate the powder should only be used if you are going to shoot the ammo imediately. Using a grease type lubricant on case necks CAN cause the powder burn rate consistancy to change.

Just be careful. </div></div>

Hadn't thought about that, excellent point, thanks!

I use only IDW or their dry neck lube, fwiw. And remove as much as possible once sized.