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Help/Problem with Rem700 bolt ejector... Pictures inside.

MrOneEyedBoh

MrOneEyedBoh

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Nov 23, 2011
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So long story short, I went shooting last weekend and well, didn't get to shoot. The bolt would not lock with a round in it, it will cycle fine without one etc, just not with one. A while back I sent the bolt out to get fluted, that's the only thing that changed... I shot this gun a lot years back and haven't since I sent the bolt out. So this is what Im thinking...

I took the ejector apart, removed the spring and inserted the ejector- it doesn't sit flush with the bolt face. This would cause the round to not chamber correctly/bolt lock... right? ( Image attached shows the ejector bottomed out int he bolt, with NO spring )

Does that mean the ejector is the wrong one and maybe for something else? Should I file some off of the thin stem end, or just buy a new one? I don't know even this is even my bolt... lol Sure it looks like the same handle I had and it is a Rem700 bolt - but I don't know. Im just confused as to why it was sent out before hand working and not its not.

1. Say they gave me the wrong bolt back ( why, how or else, I don't know ) will that cause headspace issues?
2. Say they just installed the wrong ejector - would installing a new one fix the problem?
3. Does someone have a Rem700 and can you compare my measurement with yours?
4. Any other thoughts on this? Yes, I don't know much at all but I think THIS is the issue...
 

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Your original bolt should have had the last 4 numbers of the receiver serial number marked into it by the factory.
The numbers may have been blasted away or at least made more difficult to read if your bolt has been refinished. Numbers are usually on the bottom back of the bolt body.

Get it in some good light and see if you see the remnants of those numbers to confirm it is your original bolt.

If your bolt was refinished, there could have been some abrasive blast media compacted into the ejector hole. If the person handling the work did not clean that out, your ejector will not be able to compress into the hole properly. Accordingly, when you try to chamber a round the ejector will not allow the case head to seat back against the breech face of the bolt when you try to close everything into battery.

With the ejector and ejector spring removed, take a small drill bit and insert into the ejector hole by hand. Twist clockwise and see if you get some compacted media out.

./
.
 
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Terry Cross said:
Your original bolt should have had the last 4 numbers of the receiver serial number marked into it by the factory.
The numbers may have been blasted away or at least made more difficult to read if your bolt has been refinished. Numbers are usually on the bottom back of the bolt body.

Get it in some good light and see if you see the remnants of those numbers to confirm it is your original bolt.

If your bolt was refinished, there could have been some abrasive blast media compacted into the ejector hole. If the person handling the work did not clean that out, your ejector will not be able to compress into the hole properly. Accordingly, when you try to chamber a round the ejector will not allow the case head to seat back against the breech face of the bolt when you try to close everything into battery.

With the ejector and ejector spring removed, take a small drill bit and insert into the ejector hole by hand. Twist clockwise and see if you get some compacted media out.

./
.
Click to expand...
Will report back shortly...
 
Terry Cross said:
Your original bolt should have had the last 4 numbers of the receiver serial number marked into it by the factory.
The numbers may have been blasted away or at least made more difficult to read if your bolt has been refinished. Numbers are usually on the bottom back of the bolt body.

Get it in some good light and see if you see the remnants of those numbers to confirm it is your original bolt.

If your bolt was refinished, there could have been some abrasive blast media compacted into the ejector hole. If the person handling the work did not clean that out, your ejector will not be able to compress into the hole properly. Accordingly, when you try to chamber a round the ejector will not allow the case head to seat back against the breech face of the bolt when you try to close everything into battery.

With the ejector and ejector spring removed, take a small drill bit and insert into the ejector hole by hand. Twist clockwise and see if you get some compacted media out.

./
.
Click to expand...
As my luck would have it, I cannot locate the serial number on the bolt. I dont even know where to be looking at more closely either as again, I dont even see any traces of numbers.
 
Terry Cross said:
Your original bolt should have had the last 4 numbers of the receiver serial number marked into it by the factory.
The numbers may have been blasted away or at least made more difficult to read if your bolt has been refinished. Numbers are usually on the bottom back of the bolt body.

Get it in some good light and see if you see the remnants of those numbers to confirm it is your original bolt.

If your bolt was refinished, there could have been some abrasive blast media compacted into the ejector hole. If the person handling the work did not clean that out, your ejector will not be able to compress into the hole properly. Accordingly, when you try to chamber a round the ejector will not allow the case head to seat back against the breech face of the bolt when you try to close everything into battery.

With the ejector and ejector spring removed, take a small drill bit and insert into the ejector hole by hand. Twist clockwise and see if you get some compacted media out.

./
.
Click to expand...
Is this where the serial is located? If thats the case, I cant see it through the ceracoat on the bolt. This is a screenshot from a youtube video
 

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Did you have that extractor installed along with the fluting job?
Does a cartridge seat properly into the bolt face and barrel with the ejector removed?
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
Yes, very little if anything came out. I used some contact cleaner in the hole to see if anyhting came out, just very little brown residue
Click to expand...

Did you use a drill bit by hand like Terry suggested or was it just blasting?

You really need to hand twist a bit into that hole.
Media, dirt, debris can collect in there and the drill bit is the only thing that will remove ALL of it.
 
Mike Casselton said:
Did you have that extractor installed along with the fluting job?
Does a cartridge seat properly into the bolt face and barrel with the ejector removed?
Click to expand...

The extractor has always been there. Yes the cartridge seats properly into the bolt with w/the ejector removed.


Mike Casselton said:
Did you use a drill bit by hand like Terry suggested or was it just blasting?

You really need to hand twist a bit into that hole.
Media, dirt, debris can collect in there and the drill bit is the only thing that will remove ALL of it.
Click to expand...

I did, nothing came out.
 
Mike Casselton said:
Maybe, just maybe you ended up with a different ejector.
Click to expand...
Thats what Im thinking... The guy that did it is pretty much saying since I didnt shoot it since I got the bolt back, its up in the air. Well God strike me dead, it went out working and now it doesnt. The only thing that changed we fluting of the bolt that was tore down by them thus leading me to here, today with a non-working firearm.

Not accusing, just looking for help etc.
 
I removed the ejector from my Rem700 308.

The ejector stem measures .715"

The spring measures roughly 1.080"

Overall ejector length is 1.178"

The depth of the ejector hole is 1.320"

Hope this helps.
 
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JMGlasgow said:
I removed the ejector from my Rem700 308.

The ejector stem measures .715"

The spring measures roughly 1.080"

Overall ejector length is 1.178"

The depth of the ejector hole is 1.320"

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

This is getting unreal. So my specs on the ejector are damn near the same. Here is where it gets crazy. The hold is WAY smaller... 1.113" is what Im getting. I used a bright ass flashlight and looked in the ejector hole and it doenst look like there is anything in there at all. Im truly starting to think something is going on with my bolt/this isn't even MY bolt.
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
This is getting unreal. So my specs on the ejector are damn near the same. Here is where it gets crazy. The hold is WAY smaller... 1.113" is what Im getting. I used a bright ass flashlight and looked in the ejector hole and it doenst look like there is anything in there at all. Im truly starting to think something is going on with my bolt/this isn't even MY bolt.
Click to expand...
Do you have another bolt/ejector handy to compare to?
Or a friend's?

R
 
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What is the serial # prefix on your receiver? I wonder if something changed. My short actions are RR prefix, and I'm not sure what the long action is.
 
JMGlasgow said:
When I get home tonight I'll pull a standard face long action bolt from a Rem700 and measure it as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Mine is a 308 if that matters at all. The bolt functions within the gun fine in terms of movement/action etc. Just the Ejector button protrudes past the face of the bolt, thus not allowing the round to sit flush into the bolt/against the face.
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
I dont... i honestly dont know much about these things. I took a few long range classes, learned how to shoot and I shoot for fun.

I appreciate the help guys..
Click to expand...
First shallow hole I've heard of but .060 is a lot.
That or a goofy machined ejector cutout would seem to be the answer.
FYI the pin clearance relief.

R
 
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JMGlasgow said:
What is the serial # prefix on your receiver? I wonder if something changed. My short actions are RR prefix, and I'm not sure what the long action is.
Click to expand...
Excuse my intellegence lol where is that located? Assuming you mean Serial itself? E649 is what it starts with. Asking just because mine doesnt have two letters - just what you see
 
Rthur said:
First shallow hole I've heard of but .060 is a lot.
That or a goofy machined ejector cutout would seem to be the answer.
FYI the pin clearance relief.

R
Click to expand...

When you said pin clearance relief, is the hole that is drilled in the bolt one size all way down? OR is it drill like this ( crude image, but hopefully you get it. )

Is the hole for the ejector cut all the same OD all the way down like in #1? Or is it like #2 and is the hole somewhat shaped like the actual injector itself? So there is another smaller OD inside the hold to house the long thin stem on the ejector.
 

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MrOneEyedBoh said:
When you said pin clearance relief, is the hole that is drilled in the bolt one size all way down? OR is it drill like this ( crude image, but hopefully you get it. )

Is the hole for the ejector cut all the same OD all the way down like in #1? Or is it like #2 and is the hole somewhat shaped like the actual injector itself? So there is another smaller OD inside the hold to house the long thin stem on the ejector.
Click to expand...
The side relief on the ejector pin.
Where the roll pin that retains it fits.
IMG_4111.JPG


R
 
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I didn't think to measure that area. I'll do that as well. Just trying to get known good part measurements for a comparison.
 
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I measured the ejector parts from my long action Rem700 RR serial number prefix.

Total ejector length 1.174"
Stem length .715
Ejector cutout .255"
Ejector hole depth to top of bolt face 1.4"
Spring length 1.1"

All measurements are basically the same compared to the short action I measured.

The ejector hole on my short action bolt was also measured to the end of the bolt nose, not where the case sits in the recess.
 
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OP remove the ejector plunger and clip a case into the boltface and see if it will chamber.

So just to be clear the bolt will have the case held by the extractor then see if it will chamber.
 
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whatsupdoc said:
OP remove the ejector plunger and clip a case into the boltface and see if it will chamber.

So just to be clear the bolt will have the case held by the extractor then see if it will chamber.
Click to expand...
It will. It's definitely the ejector not sitting into the bolt correctly.
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
It will. It's definitely the ejector not sitting into the bolt correctly.
Click to expand...
So now with the ejector out drop a case in the chamber and see if the extractor will snap over the case.
If it does not then the problem is the counter bore in the barrel is too tight and the extractor cannot open enough to
snap over the case head.
 
If you read his first post, nothing changed except fluting the bolt, and it was fine before he sent the bolt out. How can a barrel counter bore change when it wasn't even the part that was modified?
 
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JMGlasgow said:
If you read his first post, nothing changed except fluting the bolt, and it was fine before he sent the bolt out. How can a barrel counter bore change when it wasn't even the part that was modified?
Click to expand...
What if the smith replaced the extractor or swapped bolts.
 
That's what he is wondering, but unfortunately the cerakote covered up the last 4 of the rifle serial number on the bolt.
 
Sounds like OP removed the ejector himself (please correct me if I'm wrong). OP; If you did remove the ejector, then you would have had to have removed the roll pin that retains the ejector in it's bore. Is it possible that when you were removing the roll pin, you maybe nicked the interior of the ejector bore with your punch ? And, did you use a roll pin punch or just a regular flat faced punch ? (not imperative to use a roll pin punch, but it helps).

What I'm getting at is that if you used a flat faced punch instead of a roll pin punch (Roll pin punches have a little tit in the center of the face of the punch that lines up with the recess on the face of the roll pin, which helps to keep the roll pin punch centered). It is possible that the inside of the ejector bore (roll pin hole) got nicked and now has a burr on it that is keeping the ejector from fully retracting. On the one hand, there's a temptation to put the ejector in the ejector hole backwards and see how far in it will go. Personally, I wouldn't do that. Reason being is that if the ejector gets stuck at 97.5% of the way in, it'll be hell to get it back out.

Oh, and if none of the above is valid, it could be that the only thing that is different is the ejector spring. It may be that the person doing the work put a "new" ejector spring in the bolt on re-assembly and that spring is incorrect/too long (and won't compress enough).

Upon re-assembly, are you absolutely certain that you aligned the flat on the side of the ejector properly, such that the flat on the ejector is married to the roll pin and the roll pin is retaining the ejector properly ?

Mother's little helper;

 
Last edited:
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I would say the numbers do not lie. Two people posted ejector hole depths of 1.32 and 1.40 inches. The OP states his ejector hole measures 1.113 inches. This would put the OP’s ejector protruding anywhere from 0.021” to 0.029” past the face of the bolt.

Sounds like Terry Cross was on to something when stating media, dirt or coating was in the hole; hole measures too shallow as compared to two other bolts.

I would take a drill bit and use a tap holder to (t-handle) to firmly drill the bottom of the hole; barely scraping metal or removing any foreign material if present.

If that is unsuccessful, I would shave 0.025” off the ejector face. Worst thing would be to buy a replacement ejector if this is not the fix. They are cheap parts.

It stands to reason the hole is too shallow for whatever cause.
 
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Elite_KG said:
I would say the numbers do not lie. Two people posted ejector hole depths of 1.32 and 1.40 inches. The OP states his ejector hole measures 1.113 inches. This would put the OP’s ejector protruding anywhere from 0.021” to 0.029” past the face of the bolt.

Sounds like Terry Cross was on to something when stating media, dirt or coating was in the hole; hole measures too shallow as compared to two other bolts.

I would take a drill bit and use a tap holder to (t-handle) to firmly drill the bottom of the hole; barely scraping metal or removing any foreign material if present.

If that is unsuccessful, I would shave 0.025” off the ejector face. Worst thing would be to buy a replacement ejector if this is not the fix. They are cheap parts.

It stands to reason the hole is too shallow for whatever cause.
Click to expand...
I did use a bit and nothing came out. Unless I'm not pushing hard enough and stuff is super compacted... Im at a aloss too
 
Threadcutter308 said:
Sounds like OP removed the ejector himself (please correct me if I'm wrong). OP; If you did remove the ejector, then you would have had to have removed the roll pin that retains the ejector in it's bore. Is it possible that when you were removing the roll pin, you maybe nicked the interior of the ejector bore with your punch ? And, did you use a roll pin punch or just a regular flat faced punch ? (not imperative to use a roll pin punch, but it helps).

What I'm getting at is that if you used a flat faced punch instead of a roll pin punch (Roll pin punches have a little tit in the center of the face of the punch that lines up with the recess on the face of the roll pin, which helps to keep the roll pin punch centered). It is possible that the inside of the ejector bore (roll pin hole) got nicked and now has a burr on it that is keeping the ejector from fully retracting. On the one hand, there's a temptation to put the ejector in the ejector hole backwards and see how far in it will go. Personally, I wouldn't do that. Reason being is that if the ejector gets stuck at 97.5% of the way in, it'll be hell to get it back out.

Oh, and if none of the above is valid, it could be that the only thing that is different is the ejector spring. It may be that the person doing the work put a "new" ejector spring in the bolt on re-assembly and that spring is incorrect/too long (and won't compress enough).

Upon re-assembly, are you absolutely certain that you aligned the flat on the side of the ejector properly, such that the flat on the ejector is married to the roll pin and the roll pin is retaining the ejector properly ?

Mother's little helper;

Click to expand...

Appreciate all the help, but yes I used the roll pin punches. Everything is aligned. The hold is just too damn shallow... Crazy I know. The guy I used was recommended a lot here, so it's not some Joe schmo. Pretty much told me to kick rocks at this point.

Ok fine... Just wondering why it went out working and now it doesn't. It's either the hole is compacted with something or the bolt isn't correct or the plunger is too long. But compared to the other measurements, plunger is ok and the hole is too shallow.
 
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MrOneEyedBoh said:
Appreciate all the help, but yes I used the roll pin punches. Everything is aligned. The hold is just too damn shallow... Crazy I know. The guy I used was recommended a lot here, so it's not some Joe schmo. Pretty much told me to kick rocks at this point.

Ok fine... Just wondering why it went out working and now it doesn't. It's either the hole is compacted with something or the bolt isn't correct or the plunger is too long. But compared to the other measurements, plunger is ok and the hole is too shallow.
Click to expand...
“Was recommended a lot here…….pretty much told me to kick rocks”.

Does actually sound like a real schmuck/not standing behind his work. But, that’s all academic at this point.

The good news is that it should be a relatively easy fix. My suggestion is to start by getting a new ejector and spring (from Brownell’s (?)), installing them and see where you’re at. If stock parts work, great. If not, you can take/send the bolt & parts to a competent/conscientious ‘smith for fitting.

BTW, I may not have seen it in previous posts, but with the extractor removed, does the barreled action headspace OK ?
 
Threadcutter308 said:
“Was recommended a lot here…….pretty much told me to kick rocks”.

Does actually sound like a real schmuck/not standing behind his work. But, that’s all academic at this point.

The good news is that it should be a relatively easy fix. My suggestion is to start by getting a new ejector and spring (from Brownell’s (?)), installing them and see where you’re at. If stock parts work, great. If not, you can take/send the bolt & parts to a competent/conscientious ‘smith for fitting.

BTW, I may not have seen it in previous posts, but with the extractor removed, does the barreled action headspace OK ?
Click to expand...

That's the still unanswered question.

Ejector removed:
Does the case/cartridge chamber?

All of this is quick and easy to troubleshoot.

OP,
Go back through the thread and write down the things to check.

Make an actual list.

The list will take ten minutes to make.

Completing the list will take less time.
Report back.
 
I guess send the barreled action to Terry Cross or LRI and see what they can figure out on it. I don't think it would be too much money to fix.
 
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