Hodgdon BL-C(2) in 308

[My Toy]

I just picked up a pound of Hodgdon BL-C(2) and was going to load up some Hornady 150 gr FMC in LC brass for my AR-10. I have several reloading manuals but was wondering if anybody has any first hand experience (velocity, pressure signs, accuracy) with this combo.
Thanks.

 

[EL34]

I used to use it years ago in .308 with 125gr. Nosler BTs. IIRC, it gave decent velocities, and acceptable accuracy. That was all out of a bolt gun though, before I had an AR-10. Since rifle powders are hard to get (at least in my area), I wouldn't hesitate to give it a try, if it was all I could get.

 

[longrangefool]

I never tried it in 308, but it worked well in my .223. I got low on powders earlier this year and had to come up with a match load with it. It is a bit temperature sensitive so be aware of using winter loads when it gets warmer. In the end I found it to be pretty dirty so I won't be restocking.

 

[montgomery627]

Never tried BLC-2 w/ 150's. I have about 400 168gr SMK loaded in LC brass & 46grs put up for "hard times". RRA LAR-8 Varmint w/ 26" barrel shoots them 3/4 MOA out to 400. Like longrangefool said though, it is pretty dirty though

 

[My Toy]

Never tried BLC-2 w/ 150's. I have about 400 168gr SMK loaded in LC brass & 46grs put up for "hard times". RRA LAR-8 Varmint w/ 26" barrel shoots them 3/4 MOA out to 400. Like longrangefool said though, it is pretty dirty though

Actually I'm planning on putting some 308 away for hard times. I've got a pretty good supply of LC brass and 150 gr FMC bullets and WLR primers. I'm not really interested in tack driving accuracy (I load my bolt guns for that) just reasonable accuracy from a Std. AR-10 /w chrome lined 20" barrel. I'm looking to load with a powder that meters easily that is why I thought I'd try some BL-C(2). Also I believe it is roughly equivalent to W846 that is used to load 7.62 x 51 so I thought that was a logical place to start. I realize that it is more temperature sensitive than some other powders.
I've loaded some 168gr SMK over 41.0 grs H4895 /w LC brass /w WLR primers and consistently get 1" groups with my scoped above referenced AR-10 but I was looking for a less expensive alternative (and easier metering powder) for bulk "hard times" reloading.

 

[1MoreAR]

From military reloading manual for M80 ball 149 gr bullet, they used 46 gr of WC846 which military version of BL-C2 seat at 2.80". I would start at 44.0 and work up.

 

[My Toy]

From military reloading manual for M80 ball 149 gr bullet, they used 46 gr of WC846 which military version of BL-C2 seat at 2.80". I would start at 44.0 and work up.

That is pretty much what I was thinking as a starting point.
Thanks for confirming

 

[1MoreAR]

That is pretty much what I was thinking as a starting point.
Thanks for confirming

I'm about to do the same thing and happened to see your post. I'm gonna start at 44, 44.5, 45.0 and 45.5 with my bolt gun to get the best accuracy first.

 

[J.J. Kelly]

Blc-2 has a max of 47.0 grs with a 168 gr bullet but 45.5 grs was a little hot for my gun, backed off to 44.0 grs.
With the 147 gr bullet I use 46.0 grs of Blc-2 as compared to 42.0 gr did not cycle the action in my scar 17.

 

[Loud&Proud]

I tried blc2 in my sass I wouldn't go over 46 grains I saw horrible pressure issues while doing load development when I started getting over the 46 grains

 

[6brshooter]

I had a cmmg 308 at one time, i had to load powder puff loads because i thought i had pressure signs. Turned out the rifle was way overgassed. After a jp adjustable gas block was installed i was able to load up another grain and a half. Bl-c2 is a very accurate powder never noticed it to be any dirtier then re15. Actually in 223 with 50 gr vmax and 27.5 gr it was quite clean

 

[6brshooter]

Blc2 would me good, just stay below hodgdon max for bullet wt. Typically i like to load up temp sensitive powders in the summer always makes them safe in the winter. In ur case u might not want to load a whole bunch up until u try them in August . Benchmark is a great powder for lighter wt 309 bullets . Temp insensitive, vary accurate and consistent lot to lot, and is a fine extruded kernal that throws awesome from a harrel.

 

[My Toy]

I had a cmmg 308 at one time, i had to load powder puff loads because i thought i had pressure signs. Turned out the rifle was way overgassed. After a jp adjustable gas block was installed i was able to load up another grain and a half. Bl-c2 is a very accurate powder never noticed it to be any dirtier then re15. Actually in 223 with 50 gr vmax and 27.5 gr it was quite clean

I've been handloading for 30+ years (pistol, revolver, bolt gun, lever action, AR-15 in .223/5.56) but am new to handloading for .308 semi auto (mine is an Armalite AR-10). I'm not familiar with what you are referring to as "overgassed"; This pressure thing has got me baffled when it comes to the AR-10. Like most handloaders I have a chronogragh but no pressure measuring equipment. I'm well aware of what your saying about load testing in hot summer vs cold of winter. I've tested the same load in bolt guns at seasonal temperature extremes and found some powders can produce as much as 80 Fps more velocity at high temperature extremes.
A while ago I tried some loads with H335 that I verified reasonable velocity and no pressure signs in a Rem 700 on a 98 degree day in August (primers not excessively flattened, bolt lift and extraction easy, primer pockets not loose); with the same load in my AR-10 and while I didn't chrono the loads the primers were smashed flat and there was a definite ejector imprint on the case head. What puzzled me is that these signs were only on about half the cases; the other cases had pretty flattened primers but there was not ejector imprint.
So like you I keep reducing the powder charge; but I'm wondering if the way these pressure sign present is peculiar to the AR-10.

 

[6brshooter]

Most ar 10s are overgassed. This means the gas port in the barrel is larger then required to make the rifle function . When u start loading up to higher end of powder charge this bigger gas port lets more gas in and unlocks the bolt before pressure at the case subsides. In other words it drives the case backwards, since the bolt is just slightly starting to cam open it gives a nice ejector print. I saw this on brass in my cmmg and was way slower then what it should have been, like 200 fps slow. The jp gas block lets u dial down port size, thereby decreasingport pressure/volume. U set it so that it just locks back the bolt on a empty mag after firing ur chosen load. Makes bolt movement less violent and somewhat softens recoil. The recoil part is subjective and depends on how oversized the port was.

 

[My Toy]

Most ar 10s are overgassed. This means the gas port in the barrel is larger then required to make the rifle function . When u start loading up to higher end of powder charge this bigger gas port lets more gas in and unlocks the bolt before pressure at the case subsides. In other words it drives the case backwards, since the bolt is just slightly starting to cam open it gives a nice ejector print. I saw this on brass in my cmmg and was way slower then what it should have been, like 200 fps slow. The jp gas block lets u dial down port size, thereby decreasingport pressure/volume. U set it so that it just locks back the bolt on a empty mag after firing ur chosen load. Makes bolt movement less violent and somewhat softens recoil. The recoil part is subjective and depends on how oversized the port was.

Maybe that is the problem with the erratic nature of the pressure signs I seem to get with this AR-10. As I mentioned I get excess pressure signs (mostly ejector imprint) with loads that I've verified in my bolt guns (with tight chambers) in the heat of August that you would think should be OK in my AR-10 with what I'm guessing has a way looser chamber.
Is it hard to install the jp gas block? Did you do it yourself or have a gunsmith do it?

 

[6brshooter]

I did it, and no it isn't hard to do. Don't know what ur current front sight/gas block is but take it off and clean that area up. Remove old tube from old gas block. Get a jp that fits ur gas block area diameter either .750,.850, or.936. I prefer the clamp on jp lo profile. It has 8 screws that clamp the top half to the bottom half. Put a film circle around the gas port on the barrel , it doesn't have to be very close or very thick at all. Re install the gas tube into the new jp block first, then install block on barrel loctite the block screws with blue. I like to have the carrier stripped and slide it into the receiver. With the upper on its rail, view the carrier as it engages the gas tube. I like it to just slide on the tube with out moving the tube or rolling the carrier to either side. Clock the gasblock around on the barrel till this is acheived. Option 2 is to just tightened the block to what looks right and then tweak the gas tube under the handguards to acheive the " no deflection" when carrier and tube meet. White oak does the option 2 method and it seems to work quite well for them.