Gunsmithing Home bedding job (in progress)

[3-0-hate]

Well, I just got the itch to finish up fitting my Mauser 98 (Czech VZ24) thats been converted over to a 7mm Mag, into its new Boyds stock. I haven't actually bedded the action, yet. I did however punch the rear pillar out of the old military stock, rough it up with an electro-pencil, drill out the new stock to the correct size of 23/64th, goop some bedding compound around it and set it in the action.

This is my first time doing any kind of stock work, as I really do prefer chassis systems. This one is worth it for me to do however, as it was the first centerfire I purchased when I was 18, back in 1999. Ill keep this thread updated with photos as I go. Im planning on bedding the action itself later this week (after the rear pillar sets up) so I will do a step by step, hoping that someone finds it helpful.

Barrel channel has been clearanced for the Shilen #4 barrel

Rear pillar being test fit to ensure its the correct length, after roughing up with the electro-pencil. Luckily the Mauser front of the Mauser bottom metal works as a pillar in its own right, so no need to pillar bed the front of the stock.

Rear pillar set into the stock with the freshly mixed epoxy. Now the wait begins.

 

[sirmixalot]

looking forward to seeing this one! I want to try to start bedding myself

 

[Dolomite_Supafly]

What are you using to bed? I know a lot of people who use Marinetex but I have always used Devcon Steel Putty. Either can get a little pricey to buy but you can do several rifles.

I really like Devcon because it takes about 12 hours to cure. This gives some wiggle room to fix something if something goes awry.

Prep is EVERYTHING. Before I would seat the action into the bedding compound I made sure to tape off anywhere the putty might creep into. It will creep into places you never though possible. I would use modeling clay to build dams to keep the Devcon from migrating. I would build a dam about an inch ahead of the recoil lug. If it were me I would remove the trigger to avoid problems if the bedding compound migrates. It is easier to dremel the compound for clearance than it is trying to deal with a trigger that is glued in. And I would cover the entire action in release agent. I always used clear shoe polish as a release agent and never had an issue. I would apply the shoe polish then wait for it to dry then I would apply it again to make sure you cover everything with it. When in doubt apply more because you cannot use too much.

Apply tape to the front, bottom and sides of the recoil lug before applying the release agent. Electrical tape is what I always used because the release agent can cause the blue tape to come up. This helps give you the slightest bit of clearance for when everything is cured and you are putting it back together.

To make sure the action is centered in the stock I would wrap electrical tape around the barrel about where the stock ends and about as big as the opening at the end of the stock. That way the barrel will be centered in the barrel channel. I did not do this the first stock I did and the barrel was not centered in the stock, it looked awful.

 

[Wannashootit]

Must be an optical delusion....but that rear pillar looks to me as though it's below the surface of the wood?

 

[300 grainpill]

Totally looks low... not sure the right amount but I shot for 10 thousanths and then dremeled our the stock before epoxying the pillars in

 

[ShooterwithNoName]

I think the tang has a slight downward protrusion that should fit about perfectly into the hole above the pillar.

 

[sirmixalot]

anyone know if marinateX comes with steel like the deacon does?

 

[crunchy]

I think marinetex gray does.

 

[Edds]

Marine Tex had no metal filler in it, marinateX could have anything in it.

 

[Wannashootit]

West System (and other epoxy manuf's) all make powdered steel and aluminum that can be added to any epoxy mixture if desired.

 

[Stooxie]

I've used MarineTex with excellent results. Plenty same the same about Devcon. FWIW, I don't see how the addition of steel dust could make any strength difference whatsoever.

-Stooxie

 

[Snuby642]

Marine Tex won't fail you.
Buy the small batches and mix all at once.

Only problems I ever heard of started out with I measured out a small amount.

Use the small kits and mix it all.

 

[300 grainpill]

I’ve mixed small 1to 5 eyeball scale and have been good so far just be sure to get a good mix

 

[Snuby642]

Fine new there would be someone.
Got a hull my brother now has that has over 30 years of use not just the nice days fished tournaments.
Knocked a 1 1/2 inch hole in the water line of the hull.

Was told by the marina to mix the whole kit as it was inconsistent if done otherwise.

The time it takes to redo a botched job is not worth the risk.
Imho

 

[Stooxie]

I agree, it's worth being precise when mixing these things. I bought the 2 pound MarineTex kit but I use a grain scale to make sure I can measure the stuff out accurately. If I want half an ounce of stuff I have to measure out 0.0793 oz of the hardener. It's crazy to try to do that my eyeballing it, even in larger amounts. A high precision scale makes it a simple task.

-Stooxie

 

[Snuby642]

Yes that will get it done.
Forget I'm on a gun forum and all the cool kids have accurate scales.

Guess I could use one of the six sets of scales laying around.
Depends on the amount I will need and how much excess for mess figured in.

 

[300 grainpill]

FWIW the eyeball scale was for tiny jobs no way I’d do it on an inch and 1/2 hole... but yeah fixing botched jobs is never fun

 

[3-0-hate]

So to answer some questions that were posted above, I used JB Weld Marine Epoxy, and the results were quite good. I heard good things about it and after running a test piece on an old barrel, I found that Johnsons Paste Wax released perfectly from it after it was setup.

The rear pillar is slightly below flush. This is to account for the shape of the rear tang that has a downward protrusion. The rear pillar is setup where it should be and has contact on both the bottom metal and the rear tang.

And finally the photos. Not the best job in the world, but it was my first time. I used modeling clay to fill in the voids and work as a dam in the barrel channel. All in all I would say it was a successful job.

And a 5 shot group at 100yards of .517" center to center.

 

[Wannashootit]

Nice looking rifle.
Scope looks a bit high for proper cheekweld, if that's the case consider swapping out the safety (Buehler style, Timney has them), it'll facilitate lower rings and getting the scope down closer to the barrel.

 

[3-0-hate]

Nice looking rifle.
Scope looks a bit high for proper cheekweld, if that's the case consider swapping out the safety (Buehler style, Timney has them), it'll facilitate lower rings and getting the scope down closer to the barrel.

Thanks!

Its actually pretty good for a cheek weld with the current setup. I will be swapping out to a different scope pretty soon and this scope will migrate back to my backup hunting rifle eventually. I don't actually utilize the safety on this rifle, so that's not any real concern for me. If I'm just moving or adjusting positions, I just lift the bolt handle and call it good, otherwise I unload it/pull the bolt back.

 

[sirmixalot]

this is an actual art form

 

[SBGreen0369]

@svthuh great work man!! i bed all of my own rifles and I've probably done 60-70 rifles total. the rules i always follow are:

1. the prep work (i.e. taping off, putty, release agent) is key and failure to take the time to prep almost always results in a shitty bed job.

2. ALWAYS use more bedding compound than you think you need. SQUEEEEEEZE it out......

well done dude.