I am looking at getting a new scope for my rifle (Bergara HMR) and was wondering how important a zero stop is for a scope. I'll be doing some local one day PRS competitions, and maybe a two day once I gain enough experience. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Rifle Scopes How important is a zero stop?
- Thread starter kjeff91
- Start date
Very. Especially if you compete. You can get lost on what revolution you are.
VERY... I would never own another with out one. Look for a hard stop vs the shim thing.
At the ver least I would mark and record # of turns to zero from end of travel so you can find it again.
At the ver least I would mark and record # of turns to zero from end of travel so you can find it again.
I'll never own a scope that doesn't have one if that scope is going to be dialed.
If you plan it out right I dont really think it's a must. It is a nice option though.
If scope has a 10 mil per rev and your shooting anything besides a 308 or a 22lr going over 10 mil elevation is going to be rare.
Other option is to do some research, match or just a little trial and error and get the right moa cant of scope rail and you wont be able to go any lower anyway plus you will gain elevation travel.
Like you said put a thin piece of tape on the scope below the turret cap or mark it with a paint pen.
If scope has a 10 mil per rev and your shooting anything besides a 308 or a 22lr going over 10 mil elevation is going to be rare.
Other option is to do some research, match or just a little trial and error and get the right moa cant of scope rail and you wont be able to go any lower anyway plus you will gain elevation travel.
Like you said put a thin piece of tape on the scope below the turret cap or mark it with a paint pen.
What newer scope worth having doesn't have one these days?
I've got a 5 mil per rev scope w/o zero stop on a 22lr. It is VERY EASY to get lost, especially if you forget to return to zero between stages- or matches. I've done the latter 2x now... No more scopes without zero stops!
VERY
Very I have a rimfire delima on a Ruger 10-22 build. I want to put the vortex FFP diamond back tactical on it, but no zero stop so no beuno. It is on the the Burris XTR2 now
I dont think it's super important. It's more a convenience thing. If you dont have one you have to make sure you count your way back down to ensure your on your zero. I will personally never buy a scope without one though.
Zero stop changed my life. I suck so bad at this I can dial the wrong way if you don't stop me! Zero stop is brilliant.
I can even dial in total darkness now (have a clipon). I know a few key range/click rates. Confirm it's at zero by running to the stop, count clicks to the range you need.
I can even dial in total darkness now (have a clipon). I know a few key range/click rates. Confirm it's at zero by running to the stop, count clicks to the range you need.
I love this I don't think its important. But I will never own one without it. hahahhahahhahhhahahah
Its personal preference. I'm lazy and dont want to count my way back to my zero. But realistically it's a want and not a need.
There will come a time when you’ll get lost on the turret without a zero stop. I think it’s very important if you plan to compete and dial a lot on the clock.
A zero stop is important even for a hunter. I know a guy that was slamming steel at ERL ranges, then took the same rifle elk hunting. He missed a nice bull elk, twice. The scope was an older NXF with 10 moa per revolution. Had no idea if I had to go down one turn or two.
This is a solid idea if you are interested in an optic without ZS, another option, Burris sells a set of scope rings (XTR Signature) that you can fine tune, removing elevation. This accomplishes the same idea as stated above but with scope rings.
I don’t have a zero stop on one of the guns I hunt and bang steel with. When my scope is zeroed out it is on the third rev. When my wind age is zeroed out it is on the 5th. The revs are marked on the scope. You could twist the knobs all day long on my scope and give it back to me. I will have it zeroed and ready to hunt in 10 seconds or less.
Hunting or playing around banging steel, not important at all. Even my scopes that have zero stops I never run into it. I just simply stop on “0”. For PRS, I have no experience.
Like most here, it's one of the only features that I must have in a rifle scope. If you dial frequently on the clock, it's simply a necessity to eliminate one less possible error (wrong revolution) and get a zero, or worse, dq'd for errant round into space.
If just range plinking, not necessary but very useful. If your shooting at 1000yds with a 6.5CM (say 30MOA/8Mil and end up one full rev off, depending on how much elevation per turn, you could send a round as far as 1350 to 1500yds down range. That could be disastrous depending on where you shoot.
It's just like anything: train right, train often and you can learn do a lot with very little. But a zero stop gives you a firm reference point for knowing your at the right number on the dial.
On the bright side, virtually all scopes designed for long range use from $600 and up include some form of zero stop. There's no good reason to choose a scope that doesn't have one unless you need another feature on a specific scope for some reason (I can't think of any offhand).
My scope feature checklist in order of importance:
If just range plinking, not necessary but very useful. If your shooting at 1000yds with a 6.5CM (say 30MOA/8Mil and end up one full rev off, depending on how much elevation per turn, you could send a round as far as 1350 to 1500yds down range. That could be disastrous depending on where you shoot.
It's just like anything: train right, train often and you can learn do a lot with very little. But a zero stop gives you a firm reference point for knowing your at the right number on the dial.
On the bright side, virtually all scopes designed for long range use from $600 and up include some form of zero stop. There's no good reason to choose a scope that doesn't have one unless you need another feature on a specific scope for some reason (I can't think of any offhand).
My scope feature checklist in order of importance:
- Zerostop
- FFP
- Reticle matches needs
- Optic quality/clarity for my eye.
- Correct magnification range for purpose
- *
- *
- *
- Budget
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Only poor people don't have zero stops.
Right this is what I was thinking. But for any scope with elevation turret (not all optics have elevation turret) ... it is still nice, so you can be sure it didn't move by accident. I have one older scope that has no zero stop and I still use it, but I set the turret to zero at least, after zeroing, so I have a visual cue.
Same with the windage. After zeroing, set to zero. In case it moves by accident.
Do yourself a big favor and get the zero stop.It will be 1 less thing to worry about.
I don't have one on my SWFA HD 5-20. I do wish it had one, but I was not willing to sacrifice glass quality, build quality, or other more critical items for it.
IMHO, the cheapest scope with zero stop that's equivalent to the SWFA optically is the Cronus BTR, and it's a decent bit more money.
IMHO, the cheapest scope with zero stop that's equivalent to the SWFA optically is the Cronus BTR, and it's a decent bit more money.
I have a Sightron SIII without a zero stop and I wish it did. I won't buy another tactical scope without a zero stop. It is a really nice feature.
A zero stop is only important if you aren't worried about being a full one to two revolutions off!
Seriously, if you already have a scope that does not have it, you can make it work with some careful planning. I have two, a Bushnell DMR (not a II, so no ZS) and a Weaver tactical. Both scopes have 5 mil per rev, ones on a 22lr, the other on a 243. I can get the 243 to 600 yards (furthest I currently have access to shoot) in 3 mils so I haven't gotten lot with that one yet. My 22 I've shot to 300 yards, that takes 16 mils and I have shot and been a full revolution off.
One of the things I do is count and note the number of revolutions down from my 100 zero until the scope bottoms out so that I've got reference. You have to remember to go back to your zero every time you shoot, before moving to the next stage or putting the rifle away. Some guys improvise zero stops by putting a washer inside the turret or by placing rubber o rings between the turret and main tube.
The other big challenge with most scopes that do not recommend stop is they usually don't have as much adjustment per revolution. I've got 5 mils per rev on the two previously mentioned scopes, but I've got 14 mils on my Minox ZP5 and 10 mils on my Steiner P4Xi- I can get a lot further without worry about how my revolutions I've turned.
Again, yes zero stops can save you lots of heartache. If you're buying a scope, try to get one with a zero stop. But, if you're starting out, use what you got and get some rounds down range just be careful and plan accordingly.
Seriously, if you already have a scope that does not have it, you can make it work with some careful planning. I have two, a Bushnell DMR (not a II, so no ZS) and a Weaver tactical. Both scopes have 5 mil per rev, ones on a 22lr, the other on a 243. I can get the 243 to 600 yards (furthest I currently have access to shoot) in 3 mils so I haven't gotten lot with that one yet. My 22 I've shot to 300 yards, that takes 16 mils and I have shot and been a full revolution off.
One of the things I do is count and note the number of revolutions down from my 100 zero until the scope bottoms out so that I've got reference. You have to remember to go back to your zero every time you shoot, before moving to the next stage or putting the rifle away. Some guys improvise zero stops by putting a washer inside the turret or by placing rubber o rings between the turret and main tube.
The other big challenge with most scopes that do not recommend stop is they usually don't have as much adjustment per revolution. I've got 5 mils per rev on the two previously mentioned scopes, but I've got 14 mils on my Minox ZP5 and 10 mils on my Steiner P4Xi- I can get a lot further without worry about how my revolutions I've turned.
Again, yes zero stops can save you lots of heartache. If you're buying a scope, try to get one with a zero stop. But, if you're starting out, use what you got and get some rounds down range just be careful and plan accordingly.
I thought that they said the shim kit was now kosher for the 5-20? Its only 24 bucks, pick one up, then youre not sacrificing shit! https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...im-sets-for-swfa-super-sniper-scopes.6282226/
I've always been leery of shim style zerostops. Because the don't actually stop rotational load, the load (I believe) is placed directly on to the threads that drive elevation. Over time this would seem to be a source of lash or even outright failure if used forcefully like some of us do while running matches or when you can't feel the resistance well (cold fingers and gloves).
Maybe @koshkin or other scope gurus can speak to this being true/false/in between.
It’s a solid feature worth the extra coin. Not a must, but very close.
I have to have it and I am not so sure that I can go without an elevation rotation indicator like I have on my S&B's and Kahles. Old eyes suck
If you are shooting a flat shooting cartridge like the 6.5 or 6 CM (or something with similar or better exterior ballistics) and have a 10 mil turret, then a ZS become less important unless you do a lot of ELR shooting (in excess of 1000 yards).
They are absolutely nice to have, regardless, but I personally don't believe they are mandatory unless you know you will be getting into multiple revolutions.
They are absolutely nice to have, regardless, but I personally don't believe they are mandatory unless you know you will be getting into multiple revolutions.
I was squadded with a guy over Thanksgiving weekend who didnt have one. 2nd stage was 1315 yards. He shot 6 more stages a revolution of the turret off because he didn't know where he was. 10mils high will do that to you.
Not only did he miss points, but that far off could have sent bullets in a direction that you dont want them to go.
Not only did he miss points, but that far off could have sent bullets in a direction that you dont want them to go.
While many long time shooters like myself have gone without it over the decades with no issues, especially for bench or hunting, it is a common feature now and all scopes I have bought in recent years have it, so I would recommend it.
When you loose rotation during a PRS match it’s really important
He should know which revolution his zero is on. They are marked for a reason.
I didn't like my Steiner T5xi at all, but that situation is where the Steiner turret with changing numbers would have come in handy.
That is not completely true , I am poor and have one with zero stop It just took me longer to save enough to get it .
don't most scopes today have markings or indications for which revulution you are on ? Last edited:
Yes, but they will never replace a zero stop.That is not completely true , I am poor and have one with zero stop It just took me longer to save enough to get it .
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No Zero Stop
I was shooting a buddy's rifle, he gave me the DOPE in clicks to dial, it was something around 140 clicks. At some point I forgot what number I was on. Giving it my best guess, I fired, no impact, no idea. He asked if I had dialed correctly.
Me: "So, say I sort of forgot where I was when I was dialing. You've got a zero stop right?"
Him: *Unhappy look.*
I wouldn't own a scope without a zero stop unless its a scope Im going to set and forget.
Me: "So, say I sort of forgot where I was when I was dialing. You've got a zero stop right?"
Him: *Unhappy look.*
I wouldn't own a scope without a zero stop unless its a scope Im going to set and forget.
That is a perfect example why you don;t speak in clicks and should speak in MOA or Mils.
OP, I really like having a zero stop on my optics. Just one more fail safe when shooting under the stresses of match fire.
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