I need some cosmoline

[MK20]

Anyone know where to find a big old jug of cosmoline? I can find the spray on stuff but I am looking for the nasty 1930's style crap that is impossible to get off. I assume that I could just buy a few CMP rifles and get a lifetime supply but that would be rather inefficient.
Thanks

 

[shoobe01]

Comes up sometimes at surplus stores, etc. but I'd go to the people who sell nothing but it, and put the ® after each instance because they own the name, as far as I can tell

Cosmoline for Sale - Cosmoline Direct Rust Preventives, Sprays & More

Cosmoline Direct offers All Classic & Modernized versions of Cosmoline Rust Preventatives, Aerosols, Greases, Sprays & More. Next-Day Delivery Now Available!

www.cosmolinedirect.com

 

[MK20]

Yeah. It seems that they stopped selling the original stuff a while ago. If the original (or equivalent) is unobtainable, best secondary option?

 

[natdscott]

I assume that I could just buy a few CMP rifles and get a lifetime supply...

Lol..

True story.

A 90-degree day, large flat tub, and ag diesel does a damn good job getting it loose though, fyi.

 

[Maggot]

Somebody's getting ready to have a bunch of guns stolen. Or are they going for a fatal boat ride?

 

[Deleted member 113831]

Keyword Search | Brownells

Keyword Search | Brownells

www.brownells.com

 

[MK20]

One thing that I have learned on this forum is that the most dangerous place to ever put your guns is in any type of boat.
I am seriously considering storing these things in a very secure but very uninsulated place at a relative's house. I need something that won't melt, wont run, and is basically impervious to any and all environmental factors except submersion.

I was originally considering mixing up petroleum jelly, lanolin, and linseed oil with some mineral spirits as a brush on application, but I figured that there had to be a substance close to cosmoline. That rust veto stuff looks good but it is pretty expensive. Not too bad though considering what I would be protecting.

 

[Deleted member 113831]

One thing that I have learned on this forum is that the most dangerous place to ever put your guns is in any type of boat.
I am seriously considering storing these things in a very secure but very uninsulated place at a relative's house. I need something that won't melt, wont run, and is basically impervious to any and all environmental factors except submersion.

I was originally considering mixing up petroleum jelly, lanolin, and linseed oil with some mineral spirits as a brush on application, but I figured that there had to be a substance close to cosmoline. That rust veto stuff looks good but it is pretty expensive. Not too bad though considering what I would be protecting.

Bulk pricing:

Cosmoline Rust-Veto 342 - Industrial Grade

Cosmoline - The Rust Preventive Trusted Since 1939. Sold in Quarts, Gallons, Pails, Aerosol & Drums. Same-Day Shipping. Dependable Rust Prevention Since 1939.

www.cosmolinedirect.com

It seems to me that axle grease would work. If you needed to thicken it up, then some amount of paraffin wax could be melted in.

 

[Loonhunter]

Go to hobby lobby.
Buy a shit ton of plain candle wax.
Melt it in a big vat. Big enough to submerge your guns in.
Then.....
Make a big ass candle and sell it for a profit and buy a safe.

 

[Maggot]

Go to hobby lobby.
Buy a shit ton of plain candle wax.
Melt it in a big vat. Big enough to submerge your guns in.
Then.....
Make a big ass candle and sell it for a profit and buy a safe.

It struck me that perhaps he lived in one of the states like Commiefornia which now have red flag laws and he was thinking ahead, Its something to consider.

 

[Loonhunter]

It struck me that perhaps he lived in one of the states like Commiefornia which now have red flag laws and he was thinking ahead, Its something to consider.

His stats says “up north”.
Maybe Amarillo?
No problem, they got hobby lobby there too.

 

[101stinfantry]

I'd say go to your local farm supply store, and find the thickest, stickiest, most foul grease you can find. Put it in a tub, and heat it up until you have a fairly liquid consistency. Then bathe your shit in it for an hour, pull it out, let it drip dry, and there you go. In 50-60 years someone will cuss you for coating your shit in it!?
On a more serious note Rigs gun grease does work well.

 

[MK20]

Ok. I will check our rig grease as well.

 

[Zeroit]

Mil-Com mc 3000.
For fire ready gun storage also works for areas where grease is appropriate triggers etc. I like mil com stuff alot mc 2500 I coat all my 2 or so guns (all the metal parts) over the years I tried a lot of stuff through the years although some claim their product is used on machine guns in the military that is true to a point but any quality lube will work for awhile some of the people here have been in that situation probably have a very big opinion on that. However they clean and lubricate often. I have had some on my carry gun turned to shit after some periods of time in normal cycle of weather, carrying etc. But fire ready Maybe important at some point in anyone's life. But that's me I love redundant systems.

 

[MK20]

So I was digging around and found this:

MIL-SPEC Grease (MIL-C-11796C, Class 3)

Cosmoline Grease conforming to MIL-C-11796C, Grade 3. Sold by the Quart, Gallon, PAil or Drum. In-Stock Now at Cosmoline Direct!

www.cosmolinedirect.com

If you read down in the description they specify that this grease is IDENTICAL to the WWII cosmoline that was used.
I thought that this stuff was out of production, so I will probably grab some and try it out.

 

[davidb187]

Lee Liquid Alox?

 

[MK20]

It struck me that perhaps he lived in one of the states like Commiefornia which now have red flag laws and he was thinking ahead, Its something to consider.

I don’t live in CA (for which I give profuse and frequent thanks to God) but f I did I would be ordering some cosmoline as well.

 

[Hound Dog]

We use Denso tape on our rigs. We wrap hydraulic fittings, pipe and anything we don't want to rust. Offshore drilling rigs are some fairly nasty environment's being in the salt air, rain, and everything else, and it works pretty good. It can be bought of ebay or amazon. Just another idea for ya.

www.Denso.com

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...m-Tapes.aspx&usg=AOvVaw2cyPGFHOAVlUAqbKwk4wLw

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=19&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiQ_6eJ8ZTiAhWwna0KHfneCLgQFjASegQIAxAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FDensyl-Tape-Shipping-Located-DENTAPE50MM%2Fdp%2FB001OXDD6K&usg=AOvVaw1KUgZAaS1IBMSwSpVsBIxv

 

[Strykervet]

Try Sarco or one of those large surplus houses.

OR go assist the army in de-mothballing some M2's. You'll go home with buckets of the shit, no lie.

Liquid Alox... I swear it's the same shit, funny he mentioned that.

 

[ArmyJerry]

buy 5 gal pails of grease and heat them in a turkey fryer, then dip the parts you need dipped, spray with wd 40 first that will remove all moisture. WD is for water displacement.

One thing that I have learned on this forum is that the most dangerous place to ever put your guns is in any type of boat.
I am seriously considering storing these things in a very secure but very uninsulated place at a relative's house. I need something that won't melt, wont run, and is basically impervious to any and all environmental factors except submersion.

I was originally considering mixing up petroleum jelly, lanolin, and linseed oil with some mineral spirits as a brush on application, but I figured that there had to be a substance close to cosmoline. That rust veto stuff looks good but it is pretty expensive. Not too bad though considering what I would be protecting.

 

[natdscott]

Man. I tell ya.

I guess, given its record of success, I'd keep trying to source ACTUAL COSMO.

 

[shoobe01]

So I was digging around and found this:

MIL-SPEC Grease (MIL-C-11796C, Class 3)

Cosmoline Grease conforming to MIL-C-11796C, Grade 3. Sold by the Quart, Gallon, PAil or Drum. In-Stock Now at Cosmoline Direct!

www.cosmolinedirect.com

If you read down in the description they specify that this grease is IDENTICAL to the WWII cosmoline that was used.
I thought that this stuff was out of production, so I will probably grab some and try it out.

Been out a bit, man did this nerd thread take off. Anyway, that's why I posted the link to those guys. Look at the formulations available before clicking Buy Now, but some of them are absolutely the Mil Std version from the old days.

Also: I have a number of tools that won't be used soon sealed in "wax," but have never seen a gun, or any tool with moving parts use it. More like router/drill/machine bits.

Also: It is not wax at all (for a bunch of good reasons). It's called generically Strippable Thermoplastic Coating. Here's the page for them at McMaster:

Strippable & Peelable Coatings | MSCDirect.com

Shop for Strippable & Peelable Coatings at MSC Industrial Supply. Same-day shipping available on more than 500,000 products.

www1.mscdirect.com

Blocks at MSC if you prefer them:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Note that the blocks and buckers are not consumed (the sprays are different I suspect). As long as you don't get the outside TOO dirty when stored, you strip them off then toss the coating into the bucket. When time to coat a new tool, you melt the block/bucket, and the used coatings all together. Almost no loss/waste.


I googled a bit and at least SOME of these coatings are designed to go on complex surfaces: http://strippablecoating.com/equipment-protection/ so if you find the right one, it may be the absolutely A answer, a one-step perfect protection for long term gun storage that comes right off, vs grease, then bag.

 

[MK20]

Yeah. Thanks for the link. I decided to go with a 2 step approach. I have some guns and some actual machinery that will get the actual no BS cosmoline grease for long term permanent storage with complete peace of mind about rust. The guns will then be paper wrapped and vacuum sealed. This is absolutely overkill, but the paper and vacuum seal is just to keep the mess down when they are put in the safe. These are things like low serial number 1903's that family members carried in WWI and other collectible that will likely never be shot. For the stuff that I will use less often but still may want to take out every now and then, I found some huge rolls of VCI paper on Amazon along with huge rolls of vacuum bags. I can just wrap the rifle in VCI paper and vacuum seal. If I want to shoot it I just cut the bag, shoot, clean, reinsert in paper and bag, re-seal with the vacuum sealer.

I also found out that the local grocery store sells oxygen absorber packets in packs of 50 for around 5 bucks. If you live in the West, look around for a WINCO grocery store. They are awesome.

I am also going to go this paper and vacuum sealer route with the extra mags that I don't use that often. I can vacuum seal whole loadouts of mags in one big pack. The oxygen absorbers along with rice make vacuum sealing ammo a very affordable option with nearly unlimited shelf life. (no moisture and no oxygen in with the ammo)

BTW, If anyone here needs some cosmoline, hit me up in about a month and a half because I definitely bought more than needed on purpose. It is just cheaper than having to buy twice when you consider shipping.

Thanks for all the help guys. I am currently travelling a great deal for my job and have already come home from long trips to find slight surface rust on guns, even when liberally oiled. This should be a permanent and easy fix.

If anyone wants to do the same thing I can provide links for all the stuff that I am going to order.

 

[Bigfatcock]

Mix ALOX 50/50 with mineral spirits, and paint it on.

 

[shoobe01]

How are you vacuum sealing? I ask only because the vacuum sealers I've used have to pull the vacuum from inside the bag. So if the bag is full of stuff like grease, some will get sucked into the sealing machine. Usually this is not optimal, and it can be super hard to clean out of the machine.

Also, the heat seal won't work unless absolutely dry and clean. So think about that procedure a lot. My best thought for seal and air space is: Leave a good bit extra for the seal (6" or more), fold it over into a cuff, degreasing that once the stuff is inside, then roll it back and seal. SHOULD be enough room etc. then.

I'd do one, end to end, to make sure there's a process that works (and it may take 2-3 tries), with the smaller stuff first, before you start the assembly line.

 

[Chris399]

Vacuum seal them. When you need them just cut them open and ready to use. No clean up.

 

[Fig]

You do whatever you want, but The Royal British Museum and the Smithsonian wax their firearms collection (and a lot of other stuff) to prevent rust, deterioration and preserve them in perpetuity.

RENAISSANCE WAX - Restoration Product

An extra-ordinary wax/polish. Restore, refresh and protect your antiques, cutlery, furniture, precious metals, armory, collectibles, art, photography and much, much more. It's uses are endless. The #1 choice of museums, galleries and professionals worldwide. See the product's Description

restorationproduct.com

This stuff is so gentle and safe they use it to preserve photographs and certain paintings.

My safe is in a non-climate controlled space with a couple of golden-rods. All the family firearms I don't regularly shoot are all waxed. Once you wax and polish them they don't deteriorate at all. I do the stocks and every part of them. If I ever want to shoot them I'll put a little gun oil on them and go. They have to be bone dry and completely degreased before they're waxed though.

I have a couple Oz container and have gone through about half of it for about a hundred firearms.

 

[oneshot86]

great info, dude

 

[Loonhunter]

Vacuum seal them. When you need them just cut them open and ready to use. No clean up.

Vacuum sealing is great. You can put all your guns in one bag and shrink it down to fit under your bed.

 

[Fig]

I agree that storing metal and nonporous stuff in a semi-vacuum is very effective (It's the moisture and oxygen that's corrosive), but it is absolute hell on something like a wood grip or handle that has an ideal moisture content. I saw Jimmy Hendrix's guitar in a Lexan case, and asked if it was in a vacuum. The guy told me that it was not because it would ruin the wood part of it, so the original strings and pickups were oiled, and the case was filled with nitrogen.

I am not just concerned about the metal. I have quite a few Winchesters and Colts with all original wood, and sought to find the best way to preserve them for a long time. I got a ton of bullshit/idiot answers from gun boards on the internet from motor oil, fish oil, etc.

I even tried a few. My MIL used to work for the St. Louis Art Museum, and they have a really nice collection of ancient weapons. When I was there she introduced me to the curator, and that's who turned me on to the Ren Wax, and told me that's what all major museums use on their weapons and firearms (and furniture, and photos, etc.) to preserve them.

Again, in order for it to work you need to degrease the rifle completely. If it's oily it won't work and won't protect it. It goes on just like car wax. You spread it on, let it dry, and then buff it till it disappears.

Again, do what you want, and this isn't the ONLY way to do it, but the fact that every major museum does it this way ought to tell you something....

 

[natdscott]

Boe-Shield does the same thing, for the short term, without the buffing.

But I would NOT use it for long-term, simply because Boeing specifically does NOT state it can be used that way. If it could, they'd say so.

Helluva 6 mo-1 year product. Water literally beads on it on a gun barrel.

 

[MK20]

So the vacuum sealer that I have let’s you choose when you seal the bag. So I can not put a really harsh vacuum on the wood stocked rifles and I can also eliminate the desiccant and just use an oxygen absorber. The vacuum seal is merely to keep the cosmoline from getting everywhere.

 

[MK20]

Thanks for the wax info though. That is a good thing to remember for display firearms.

 

[shoobe01]

(Source: I have an art degree of all things) the wax for museum/display items is a good thing, but only in that context. Logically, it replaces the normal oil or grease that any item could have. Normally metal implements (weapons, farm tools, early machinery, cutaway models of machines...) but can be used for other cases such as certain minerals and artworks with some oil finishes.

It is not permanent, and is prone to damage or removal from essentially any handling, just like simply oiling. It will not evaporate however, so is good for display purposes there. However, it's not thick enough, is not applied across cracks and gaps and is largely removed from mating surfaces on assembly of things like firearms, so there is not truly sealing the item in. Therefore, it's suitable for stabilizing purposes in places already climate controlled. Your house counts, so a wall hangar will often be better off waxed than oiled if you are unlikely to ever shoot it again, and want to take the time.

But, not so suitable for long term storage as a protective coating to prevent damage, when sealed, or if you cannot guarantee the environment otherwise.

 

[MK20]

So here is my final plan.

Long term storage for guns like heirlooms that I will likely never shoot:
Cosmoline, wax paper wrap, then in bag with oxy absorber and vacuum seal.

Guns that I want to shoot or keep but may not have time to take out for several years:
Desiccant and VCI paper and vacuum seal in bag


Thanks for all the help guys.