Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
Don't know, but if it passed J.M. Browning's approval, it's GTG whatever it is.
Don't know, but if it passed J.M. Browning's approval, it's GTG whatever it is.
Suppressors If buying 1911 as a possible family....
- Thread starter Peepaw
- Start date
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't know, but if it passed J.M. Browning's approval, it's GTG whatever it is. </div></div>
Fair enough. Thanks
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't know, but if it passed J.M. Browning's approval, it's GTG whatever it is. </div></div>
Fair enough. Thanks
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
Peepaw, I think both of you got a little out of line. But what do I know, I'm a noob here anyways.
This is my Caspian, built for me by the Springfield Armory custom shop:
Every part in it is top of the line. Now here's the kicker...the parts alone (a mix of Caspian frame and slide, Caspian, Ed Brown and Wilson internals) cost me approximately $1,350 alone. And that is keeping in mind most of those companies offered a substancial LE/ Mil discount (such as 20% from Caspian). The SA Custom shop charged me $1,500 in labor alone. And believe me, in my opinion it was money well spent. This is my dream gun. Then I sent it to Robar for their "blackened stainless steel" treatment...another $150. In other words, this pistol cost a hair under $2,900. And as you can tell by the photo...I don't believe in safe queens. hehe. I'm definitely not implying yours will end up costing that much. But I will say that to take Caspian parts and have a gun custom made for you for less than $1,500 would be extremely impressive in my humble opinion.
I've owned 3 Sprinfield Armory pistols (GI, Mil-Spec, Loaded), and a Kimber (Custom II TLE). The Caspian is the only 1911 I own anymore. I can tell you one thing for certain. If I had $1,500 to spend on a 1911 to pass down through my family it would be a Les Baer Concept II. I have seen them new at $1,490. No ifs, ands or buts. Les Baer is incredible quality for the price. I spend a great deal of time on 1911forum.com and Les Baer has an impeccable reputation.
Smith and Wesson (believe it or not) probably makes the most impressive sub-$1000 dollar 1911 on the market today, with their 1911PD. The problem is, it has a scandium alloy frame. Great for a carry gun, probably not for a pass-down through the family heirloom.
Peepaw, I think both of you got a little out of line. But what do I know, I'm a noob here anyways.
This is my Caspian, built for me by the Springfield Armory custom shop:
Every part in it is top of the line. Now here's the kicker...the parts alone (a mix of Caspian frame and slide, Caspian, Ed Brown and Wilson internals) cost me approximately $1,350 alone. And that is keeping in mind most of those companies offered a substancial LE/ Mil discount (such as 20% from Caspian). The SA Custom shop charged me $1,500 in labor alone. And believe me, in my opinion it was money well spent. This is my dream gun. Then I sent it to Robar for their "blackened stainless steel" treatment...another $150. In other words, this pistol cost a hair under $2,900. And as you can tell by the photo...I don't believe in safe queens. hehe. I'm definitely not implying yours will end up costing that much. But I will say that to take Caspian parts and have a gun custom made for you for less than $1,500 would be extremely impressive in my humble opinion.
I've owned 3 Sprinfield Armory pistols (GI, Mil-Spec, Loaded), and a Kimber (Custom II TLE). The Caspian is the only 1911 I own anymore. I can tell you one thing for certain. If I had $1,500 to spend on a 1911 to pass down through my family it would be a Les Baer Concept II. I have seen them new at $1,490. No ifs, ands or buts. Les Baer is incredible quality for the price. I spend a great deal of time on 1911forum.com and Les Baer has an impeccable reputation.
Smith and Wesson (believe it or not) probably makes the most impressive sub-$1000 dollar 1911 on the market today, with their 1911PD. The problem is, it has a scandium alloy frame. Great for a carry gun, probably not for a pass-down through the family heirloom.
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are you suggesting that YOU are a Vet, because how I read that, you are suggesting it. Now, tell me this...how are you also a "Poor college kid"...</div></div>
You are a fucken moron...I've been both a vet and broke ass college student shit for brains!
While I think the "internet tough-guy" talk is ridiculous...I have to say that you do in fact sound like an over-emotional gigantic vagina.
You can add me to the crowd that finds it amusing that you bought a lower end Springfield, despite it being exactly what you WERE NOT wanting in your original post.
Now go buy some ammo and spend more time on the range shooting it, and less time replying to your own thread.
My $0.02 whether you want it or not.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are you suggesting that YOU are a Vet, because how I read that, you are suggesting it. Now, tell me this...how are you also a "Poor college kid"...</div></div>
You are a fucken moron...I've been both a vet and broke ass college student shit for brains!
While I think the "internet tough-guy" talk is ridiculous...I have to say that you do in fact sound like an over-emotional gigantic vagina.
You can add me to the crowd that finds it amusing that you bought a lower end Springfield, despite it being exactly what you WERE NOT wanting in your original post.
Now go buy some ammo and spend more time on the range shooting it, and less time replying to your own thread.
My $0.02 whether you want it or not.
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jedi5150</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I'm definitely not implying yours will end up costing that much. But I will say that to take Caspian parts and have a gun custom made for you for less than $1,500 would be extremely impressive in my humble opinion.
.
</div></div>
Yeah, not worried about teh budget anymore. If I was sticking with just the one 1911, yes, was shooting for teh $1500 range. But, now that I bought the SA to have as well, decided that there was no reason to cut corners for the "hierloom" piece if you will. Thanks for the info, and great looking gun by the way!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jedi5150</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I'm definitely not implying yours will end up costing that much. But I will say that to take Caspian parts and have a gun custom made for you for less than $1,500 would be extremely impressive in my humble opinion.
.
</div></div>
Yeah, not worried about teh budget anymore. If I was sticking with just the one 1911, yes, was shooting for teh $1500 range. But, now that I bought the SA to have as well, decided that there was no reason to cut corners for the "hierloom" piece if you will. Thanks for the info, and great looking gun by the way!
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doorkicker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doorkicker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Peepaw said:
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
I got @ 200 more rounds down range this morning, and nothing really sxciting to add, except that groups are becoming smaller more rounds I get down. So, not sure if it's ammo, pistol breakn in, or just me getting used to the gun.
First box of 50 was teh Winchester 185, but then I picked up 5 boxes of Federal 230 and 5 boxes of Remington 230.
I finished off the Winchester, then moved to the Federal, and got 100 rounds down it, and then started with teh Remington, and got 100 down, and by the time I got to the Remington 230, is when groups started getting pretty consistent 5 shot groups in the 2+".
I got @ 200 more rounds down range this morning, and nothing really sxciting to add, except that groups are becoming smaller more rounds I get down. So, not sure if it's ammo, pistol breakn in, or just me getting used to the gun.
First box of 50 was teh Winchester 185, but then I picked up 5 boxes of Federal 230 and 5 boxes of Remington 230.
I finished off the Winchester, then moved to the Federal, and got 100 rounds down it, and then started with teh Remington, and got 100 down, and by the time I got to the Remington 230, is when groups started getting pretty consistent 5 shot groups in the 2+".
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
Yeah, I know not that impressive, but it's getting better. Thanks
Yeah, I know not that impressive, but it's getting better. Thanks
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
For me, consistent 2" groups (I'm assuming 25yd) with factory loads is mighty respectable. Shooting a handgun with outstanding accuracy was never a natural act, hence my lack of handguns at present (and for the past dozen years). Very little one can do that a S/G won't do better.
Greg
For me, consistent 2" groups (I'm assuming 25yd) with factory loads is mighty respectable. Shooting a handgun with outstanding accuracy was never a natural act, hence my lack of handguns at present (and for the past dozen years). Very little one can do that a S/G won't do better.
Greg
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For me, consistent 2" groups (I'm assuming 25yd) with factory loads is mighty respectable. Shooting a handgun with outstanding accuracy was never a natural act, hence my lack of handguns at present (and for the past dozen years). Very little one can do that a S/G won't do better.
Greg </div></div>
Yes, 25 yards. Would not say that we are at a consistent 2" group, just yet. Last 2 groups of teh day, I was able to get down to that. But if you take the last 20 or so groups before that, and in the 3-4" range, still have my work cut out for me. Basically, the first 125-150 or so rounds, I was getting familiar with it @ 10 yards, then moved over to 25 yards, and last 100 or so is when started grouping it, of which the majority grouped in the 3-4" range.
The site's on this particular 1911...from what I have read...not very good, right? What about teh trigger? Seems to be "tight" or have some slight drag on it, not nearly as smooth as my .308's. So, any suggestions on site's/triggers?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For me, consistent 2" groups (I'm assuming 25yd) with factory loads is mighty respectable. Shooting a handgun with outstanding accuracy was never a natural act, hence my lack of handguns at present (and for the past dozen years). Very little one can do that a S/G won't do better.
Greg </div></div>
Yes, 25 yards. Would not say that we are at a consistent 2" group, just yet. Last 2 groups of teh day, I was able to get down to that. But if you take the last 20 or so groups before that, and in the 3-4" range, still have my work cut out for me. Basically, the first 125-150 or so rounds, I was getting familiar with it @ 10 yards, then moved over to 25 yards, and last 100 or so is when started grouping it, of which the majority grouped in the 3-4" range.
The site's on this particular 1911...from what I have read...not very good, right? What about teh trigger? Seems to be "tight" or have some slight drag on it, not nearly as smooth as my .308's. So, any suggestions on site's/triggers?
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
I used to do a lot of 1911A1 tuning for the guys on our Marine Corps League Shooting Team, based on lessons and advice from a PA .45 Smith named George Carrell; but it's been nearly a decade since I owned one, and my memory is not what it once was.
To find out how to do which and what, I'd suggest you do what I did, and pay attention to the guys at the range who own their own Ransom Rests. At least they're serious, and may even know what they're doing.
Greg
I used to do a lot of 1911A1 tuning for the guys on our Marine Corps League Shooting Team, based on lessons and advice from a PA .45 Smith named George Carrell; but it's been nearly a decade since I owned one, and my memory is not what it once was.
To find out how to do which and what, I'd suggest you do what I did, and pay attention to the guys at the range who own their own Ransom Rests. At least they're serious, and may even know what they're doing.
Greg
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used to do a lot of 1911A1 tuning for the guys on our Marine Corps League Shooting Team, based on lessons and advice from a PA .45 Smith named George Carrell; but it's been nearly a decade since I owned one, and my memory is not what it once was.
To find out how to do which and what, I'd suggest you do what I did, and pay attention to the guys at the range who own their own Ransom Rests. At least they're serious, and may even know what they're doing.
Greg </div></div>
Cool, thanks for tips. Will do some checking around.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I used to do a lot of 1911A1 tuning for the guys on our Marine Corps League Shooting Team, based on lessons and advice from a PA .45 Smith named George Carrell; but it's been nearly a decade since I owned one, and my memory is not what it once was.
To find out how to do which and what, I'd suggest you do what I did, and pay attention to the guys at the range who own their own Ransom Rests. At least they're serious, and may even know what they're doing.
Greg </div></div>
Cool, thanks for tips. Will do some checking around.
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
For information regarding 1911s look at the left-hand column here: http://www.m1911.org/m1911dt.htm
One of the things you do when purchasing an economical 1911 is allow a lot of room for modifications: sights, trigger, barrel, etc. By the time you get done in many cases you have spent as much as for a semi-custom 1911, but still only have a 1911 that has been modified (you 'normally' lose a lot of the value of the $$$ spent this way ...some places like Yost will allow you to retain value, if you keep your build sheet, but you will be w/o your 1911 for a while ...). But if you have ANY work done be willing to pay top $$$ ( sample price list) for the work as Greg suggests. If someone does not know what they are doing - they can ruin what is right about your 1911.
IMO - if it works - leave it alone. If you are using economical ammo, your groups for that weapon are good. They could be improved to sub 1" - but it will cost - both in pistol modifications and with the use of premium ammo (or handloads).
PS: When I was out for my morning run another thing occurred to me. Above you emphasized your groups and dismissed your fliers - MISSES. Anything outside of your average group should be considered a MISS - consider a hostage being where your flier is .... While it is good to know your group size, it is important to STUDY your MISSES. These MISSES reveal different things about your shooting skills and give you an excellent opportunity to improve them. Look at the target pic below and study your MISSES (possibly even you group hits if they are not in the bull) accordingly.
Right now you need to practice, practice, practice. After you perfect shooting 3" targets at 25 yards, begin shooting 1" targets (or whatever your weapon is capable of) and STUDY your misses outside of 1", et. al. After you get around 12K rounds or so down the pipe you will know which modifications you may desire, et. al.
Here is one of my 1911s at 50 yards:
Print out this target pic: http://www.is-lan.com/challenge/images/Pistol-Correction.pdf
For information regarding 1911s look at the left-hand column here: http://www.m1911.org/m1911dt.htm
One of the things you do when purchasing an economical 1911 is allow a lot of room for modifications: sights, trigger, barrel, etc. By the time you get done in many cases you have spent as much as for a semi-custom 1911, but still only have a 1911 that has been modified (you 'normally' lose a lot of the value of the $$$ spent this way ...some places like Yost will allow you to retain value, if you keep your build sheet, but you will be w/o your 1911 for a while ...). But if you have ANY work done be willing to pay top $$$ ( sample price list) for the work as Greg suggests. If someone does not know what they are doing - they can ruin what is right about your 1911.
IMO - if it works - leave it alone. If you are using economical ammo, your groups for that weapon are good. They could be improved to sub 1" - but it will cost - both in pistol modifications and with the use of premium ammo (or handloads).
PS: When I was out for my morning run another thing occurred to me. Above you emphasized your groups and dismissed your fliers - MISSES. Anything outside of your average group should be considered a MISS - consider a hostage being where your flier is .... While it is good to know your group size, it is important to STUDY your MISSES. These MISSES reveal different things about your shooting skills and give you an excellent opportunity to improve them. Look at the target pic below and study your MISSES (possibly even you group hits if they are not in the bull) accordingly.
Right now you need to practice, practice, practice. After you perfect shooting 3" targets at 25 yards, begin shooting 1" targets (or whatever your weapon is capable of) and STUDY your misses outside of 1", et. al. After you get around 12K rounds or so down the pipe you will know which modifications you may desire, et. al.
Here is one of my 1911s at 50 yards:
Print out this target pic: http://www.is-lan.com/challenge/images/Pistol-Correction.pdf
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The average human eye cannot even see a 1" target at 25 yards, much less shoot at it effectively with sights like the tiny GI-style he has on that 1911. </div></div>
Respectfully, I figured he (and you) already knew how to set up a 1" target and aiming point at 25 yards ... and apologize for not making this clearer in my other post.
I did not state I could see a 1" target <span style="font-style: italic">in a normal sight picture</span>, but I use 1" red dots at 25 yards to judge my shots by - which I was encouraging him to do - "STUDY your misses outside of 1", (but you can see the 1" target at 25 yards - it is bright). I put it against a 3" Shoot-N-See like the one below (an earlier pic for a rifle ... not a 1911). For aiming purposes, I use the bottom of the 3" dot, but I check my shooting against what is not in the 1" dot. Since he has different sights his point of aim may work better with a 5" dot with a 1" center (or whatever his weapon is capable of ...) - it really depends on how his weapon is set up....:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The average human eye cannot even see a 1" target at 25 yards, much less shoot at it effectively with sights like the tiny GI-style he has on that 1911. </div></div>
Respectfully, I figured he (and you) already knew how to set up a 1" target and aiming point at 25 yards ... and apologize for not making this clearer in my other post.
I did not state I could see a 1" target <span style="font-style: italic">in a normal sight picture</span>, but I use 1" red dots at 25 yards to judge my shots by - which I was encouraging him to do - "STUDY your misses outside of 1", (but you can see the 1" target at 25 yards - it is bright). I put it against a 3" Shoot-N-See like the one below (an earlier pic for a rifle ... not a 1911). For aiming purposes, I use the bottom of the 3" dot, but I check my shooting against what is not in the 1" dot. Since he has different sights his point of aim may work better with a 5" dot with a 1" center (or whatever his weapon is capable of ...) - it really depends on how his weapon is set up....:
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
I'm really quit tired of all these custom guns, and the opinions of those that think you have to spend the most to have the best. True, you do have to spend the money to get a nice gun, but you do not have to spend a fortune to have a nice 45. I like 45's, and i have a few, but i do not have anything custom, nor do I want one. I suppose if I was loaded and simply like to collect fine guns that I never shot, a custom or commemorative special would be the way to go.....I am not rich, nor do I expect to be...so I could not afford to go that route, nor would most. I like guns that functional, accurate and built with quality parts by people that know what they are doing. While some might interpret this as a Custom gun, I do not....My gun would be built in a factory type setting, not a one off back room. That said, I think there are several resources for such a weapon. Springfield is a likely contender, as would be Colt, Sig Sauer and Remington. Yes, Remington, they are releasing their first 45 since they stopped building them after WWII. From what I have gathered, it will be a no no-nosens 45 auto that is mostly WWII in nature. My kind of 45.
I enjoy great guns, but hate the notion that it is a all or nothing field. I would rather have a decent 45, one that I was not afraid to shoot, then a wonderful custom that sat in the vault or case. I suppose that decision is yours to make, a family heirloom means many different things to different people. But, from your post, it sounded like you were wanting something you could not only ass down to your son, but something you could both use together as well. Good luck with your choice, any 45 is better than no 45, so you cannot go wrong.
I'm really quit tired of all these custom guns, and the opinions of those that think you have to spend the most to have the best. True, you do have to spend the money to get a nice gun, but you do not have to spend a fortune to have a nice 45. I like 45's, and i have a few, but i do not have anything custom, nor do I want one. I suppose if I was loaded and simply like to collect fine guns that I never shot, a custom or commemorative special would be the way to go.....I am not rich, nor do I expect to be...so I could not afford to go that route, nor would most. I like guns that functional, accurate and built with quality parts by people that know what they are doing. While some might interpret this as a Custom gun, I do not....My gun would be built in a factory type setting, not a one off back room. That said, I think there are several resources for such a weapon. Springfield is a likely contender, as would be Colt, Sig Sauer and Remington. Yes, Remington, they are releasing their first 45 since they stopped building them after WWII. From what I have gathered, it will be a no no-nosens 45 auto that is mostly WWII in nature. My kind of 45.
I enjoy great guns, but hate the notion that it is a all or nothing field. I would rather have a decent 45, one that I was not afraid to shoot, then a wonderful custom that sat in the vault or case. I suppose that decision is yours to make, a family heirloom means many different things to different people. But, from your post, it sounded like you were wanting something you could not only ass down to your son, but something you could both use together as well. Good luck with your choice, any 45 is better than no 45, so you cannot go wrong.
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
If its gonna be in family for hopefully at least 100yrs save a little more give'em a wilson something they can be VERY proud of
If its gonna be in family for hopefully at least 100yrs save a little more give'em a wilson something they can be VERY proud of
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Greg, let me ask you this....before I make my purchase on the slide/frame and have one built...I know that teh Fusion is forged and the Caspian is cast...what was teh ORIGINAL 1911 made of? Gonna assume it was cast, but would like to know for sure, as I like your idea...to duplicate the look of teh original 1911. So, that being said, if I am having one made, is there someone out there, that offers these parts to duplcaite the original (to the "T")? </div></div>
I am not Greg but I will answer I believe the original 1911 frame's were forged
and some people seem to have an issue with cast frame's .
I am also going to suggest a Les Baer as an option as well as Colt .
I am not a Springer fan there is nothing wrong with them per say just not my thing .
Any update's on this , without any of the drama that we had in the middle .
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peepaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Greg, let me ask you this....before I make my purchase on the slide/frame and have one built...I know that teh Fusion is forged and the Caspian is cast...what was teh ORIGINAL 1911 made of? Gonna assume it was cast, but would like to know for sure, as I like your idea...to duplicate the look of teh original 1911. So, that being said, if I am having one made, is there someone out there, that offers these parts to duplcaite the original (to the "T")? </div></div>
I am not Greg but I will answer I believe the original 1911 frame's were forged
and some people seem to have an issue with cast frame's .
I am also going to suggest a Les Baer as an option as well as Colt .
I am not a Springer fan there is nothing wrong with them per say just not my thing .
Any update's on this , without any of the drama that we had in the middle .
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mumbles</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: El Shavewa</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it is to be passed down and an heirloom I would get a Gold Cup. If you are going to use and abuse get a springer or wilson </div></div>
I agree with The Mechanic. Nothing says heirloom like a Colt. If you're looking to shoot the crap out of it then spend the $$$ and buy a Wilson.
I'd be happy to inherit either and I'm picky as hell.</div></div>
Nothing says heirloom like a pre-Series 80 Colt. I can't take a 1911 with a firing pin stop seriously. </div></div>
i'm sure you meant firing pin safety, as ALL 1911's have firing pin stop. it's the plate that holds firing pin and extractor in the slide.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mumbles</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: El Shavewa</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it is to be passed down and an heirloom I would get a Gold Cup. If you are going to use and abuse get a springer or wilson </div></div>
I agree with The Mechanic. Nothing says heirloom like a Colt. If you're looking to shoot the crap out of it then spend the $$$ and buy a Wilson.
I'd be happy to inherit either and I'm picky as hell.</div></div>
Nothing says heirloom like a pre-Series 80 Colt. I can't take a 1911 with a firing pin stop seriously. </div></div>
i'm sure you meant firing pin safety, as ALL 1911's have firing pin stop. it's the plate that holds firing pin and extractor in the slide.
Re: If buying 1911 as a possible family....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mumbles</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Colt you linked is a M1991, which is a Series 80. Nothing wrong with it, I've got one, just be aware that it will have:
-1991 written on the slide (not 1911)
-<span style="color: #FF0000">A Firing pin stop</span>
-A square hammer strut
-<span style="color: #FF0000">A cut out slide stop gap</span>
-A plastic trigger shoe
-A plastic mainspring housing (maybe. Do the NRM 1991s have plastic MSH?) </div></div>
all 1911's have firing pin stops, i think you mean firining pin safety.
the slide stop bridge is cut out because Colt and many other 1911 producers found that it's a possible spot for cracking. I've seen it crack many times over the years of working on 1911's. I've been cutting the bridge off every 1911 that's come across my bench for years because of the first one i found cracked. it doesn't do anything being there for the pistol anyway. I've yet to see a squared off hammer strut tail in a Colt.
if by squared off you mean that it's no longer spherical at the end of the tail, then this is true, but it's not squared. it's flat on two sides and rounded over from front to back. this doesn't affect the fuction or trigger job that can be achieved on the pistol. I work on Colt's every day and have no problem with these things.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mumbles</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Colt you linked is a M1991, which is a Series 80. Nothing wrong with it, I've got one, just be aware that it will have:
-1991 written on the slide (not 1911)
-<span style="color: #FF0000">A Firing pin stop</span>
-A square hammer strut
-<span style="color: #FF0000">A cut out slide stop gap</span>
-A plastic trigger shoe
-A plastic mainspring housing (maybe. Do the NRM 1991s have plastic MSH?) </div></div>
all 1911's have firing pin stops, i think you mean firining pin safety.
the slide stop bridge is cut out because Colt and many other 1911 producers found that it's a possible spot for cracking. I've seen it crack many times over the years of working on 1911's. I've been cutting the bridge off every 1911 that's come across my bench for years because of the first one i found cracked. it doesn't do anything being there for the pistol anyway. I've yet to see a squared off hammer strut tail in a Colt.
if by squared off you mean that it's no longer spherical at the end of the tail, then this is true, but it's not squared. it's flat on two sides and rounded over from front to back. this doesn't affect the fuction or trigger job that can be achieved on the pistol. I work on Colt's every day and have no problem with these things.
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