LOVE that idea! I’ve struggled because as soon as you touch the gun and mount the thermal, no matter how tightly you’ve cinched it down, it move.
GREAT idea!!!
Night Vision It’s coming...
- Thread starter TheHorta
- Start date
LOVE that idea! I’ve struggled because as soon as you touch the gun and mount the thermal, no matter how tightly you’ve cinched it down, it move.
GREAT idea!!!
If you really want to be fine you can make a 2x2 inch square of aluminum foil and center a white paster on it so there's no speckling of the laser
Can some one explain this again for me?
Sounds diabolically simple. My lizard brain is not processing.
Is this it?
Example:
At 300 yards place a target, with a 3” square foil with a 1” circular paper sticker in the dead center.
align visible laser with center of day scopes crosshairs at that distance.
Slap on thermal clippi and point visible laser at dead center of the 1” paper sticker, which you will have to confirm with a separate day optic.
Note the position of your “through the thermal” reticle- which will show you the shift that is about to happen???
Sounds diabolically simple. My lizard brain is not processing.
Is this it?
Example:
At 300 yards place a target, with a 3” square foil with a 1” circular paper sticker in the dead center.
align visible laser with center of day scopes crosshairs at that distance.
Slap on thermal clippi and point visible laser at dead center of the 1” paper sticker, which you will have to confirm with a separate day optic.
Note the position of your “through the thermal” reticle- which will show you the shift that is about to happen???
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No. I’m just trying to understand what you guys are saying. Seems like a good cheap quiet way to investigate shift.
If the laser is moved to dead nuts center of crosshairs at the given distance, you wouldn’t need to worry about offset.
If the laser is moved to dead nuts center of crosshairs at the given distance, you wouldn’t need to worry about offset.
Bingo!
Yes. Materially better.
I have a ReapIR v2 60mm (basically an IR Hunter MK III 60mm), a Halo-LR, a UTC-X and Xii, a LWTS-LR, and prettymuch anything else of consequence that has ever existed in the thermal universe.
Aside from the UTC’s, Tigger beats them all.
One quick question about the TigIR-6Z vs the TigIR-6M. With no reticle on the Z how do you align to the reticle on your scope? Is there a mark available only when in a collimation mode?
It really doesn't do anything to align them. It doesn't collimate the two units to do so.
I suppose the reticle COULD come in handy with collimation, now that I think of it.
You could zero the rifle at (insert zero range here) with both the the scope and Tigger independently. Then move the screen with the reticle to match / overlap the scope reticle.
Would also be easier to check and correct for POA shift at digital magnifications.
Does that make sense to anyone but me.
You could zero the rifle at (insert zero range here) with both the the scope and Tigger independently. Then move the screen with the reticle to match / overlap the scope reticle.
Would also be easier to check and correct for POA shift at digital magnifications.
Does that make sense to anyone but me.
It sounds like you would have to zero the rifle with the tig way out front where it would be in front of a scope to do so, but I am not sure about that.
It should be easy enough to collimate at 50 meters, then check at 100 or whaever, just shoot at a target at 50 without, put it on, measure the difference and use the formula.
This is the Andres collimation guide:
This is great if you have a 6M but we can't get those. Since the guide uses the reticle in the 6M, I would think collimating the 6Z needs a different process. Maybe the one discussed previously on post #168.
The collimation issue and the stability of collimation is one that has not been addressed that I have seen
In my conversations with Dr. Andres by email, he said the collimation is the exact same for the two units. I don't think it relies on the reticle at all.
I know you have said that before but the handbook uses it in the procedure it lays out.
Would be nice to see a specific procedure for the 6Z. Would also be nice if Dr. Andres commented on the stability of collimation
No it doesn't. The reticle you see in the handbook is the day scope reticle. That is why it is visible in the picture without thermal and with.
You re correct...my apologies for the misinterpretation
No worries. I contacted them through the site. He was super responsive. I'm sure he'd be happy to answer any questions.
I apologize if this has been answered anywhere already, but is the 6Z+ rated for 50bmg?
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It’s MG rated. I posted a pic in this thread a couple of weeks ago.
Well I truly apologize for taking so long on getting this done.
We lost the family dog and my video editor (wife) took it pretty hard. Not to mention 5 days of constant rain, we’ve had horrible conditions.
This is simply something for you guys to look at and see what this amazing little optic looks like. The full review is longer and will provide more details on the collimation process and also something that I’m very excited to share about this TIG!
Thanks
Jay
We lost the family dog and my video editor (wife) took it pretty hard. Not to mention 5 days of constant rain, we’ve had horrible conditions.
This is simply something for you guys to look at and see what this amazing little optic looks like. The full review is longer and will provide more details on the collimation process and also something that I’m very excited to share about this TIG!
Thanks
Jay
Sorry to hear that, my wife had a tough time on our last Dane.
Glad you're hanging in there.
Very nice teaser. Was wondering if you did or plan to do any comparisons of image quality with different mixes of optical and digital magnification. For instance, you can achieve 8X by setting the day-scope at 4X and TigIR at 2X or setting the day-scope at 8X and TigIR at 1X. Same overall magnification but maybe different image quality?
Looking forward to the longer review and the collimation details
Lastly,
VERY SORRY to hear about your dog. Brutally hard to lose a family pet. My condolences to you and your wife!
weird I was thinking the same thing as I was reading that.
Honestly the digital magnification on this thing is so nice that I do not see myself touching the optical mag ever. On my 3-12 S&B I leave it on 3x and use digimag.
I am doing a comparison of digital vs optical to show the difference but trust me on this, digimag on this thing is stupid nice.
As far as collimation It isn’t hard. I’ve done it several different ways and it’s not all that difficult. Also in my video I’ll tell you all about a trick I’ve learned with this thing that (in my opinion) is more valuable than a collimated optic. Just a couple days and the full video will be here.
Thanks for the kind words about the pup. That’s what pets are good for, making you sad when they’re gone I guess.
thanks
Jay
I understand what you're saying, however I'm sure it's case of just not be able to fully record, post video and see on our end as it is is person.
I have VERY limited experience using NV/thermal but doing some filming through day optics it can be VERY tough to reproduce what the eye is seeing in person
@TheHorta , I am just now tagging back in to this thread since November and I am thrilled how this all unfolded.
I can't help but find myself literally grinning at the fact you got the only M
If you had a zolid rig and dope how far away could you hit a piece of steel if it was warm?
I have no doubt you have something that can range that far
I must say, the first time I ranged a water tower at 9726.8 yards I was pretty shocked at the capability of that unit
I have no doubt you have something that can range that far
I must say, the first time I ranged a water tower at 9726.8 yards I was pretty shocked at the capability of that unit
20Km Range:
10Km Range (at night
):Fed Ex done lost my adoption papers.
Try UPS next time.
I finally had some time to play with Tigger. I put it on a piston LMT in front of an Elcan 1.5/6x. It’s a nice, compact combo.
There was ZERO POI shift at 1x (native) magnification. I was center-punching 4-inch AR500 squares at 100 yards with and without the Tig in front of the Elcan — no difference.
At 2x digital zoom on the Tig there was about a 2-MOA POI shift. Still good enough for Gubmint work. At 4x and 6x digital magnification (36x optical equivalent) POI shift was 6-8 MOA.
That was the third optic I tested with little to no shift at 1x. To tighen things up, I’ll need to manually collimate 2x-6x, if I want to use digital magnification (which I do). Overall, I’m pleasantly surprised that I don’t need to collimate at 1x native magnification on the Tig.
There was ZERO POI shift at 1x (native) magnification. I was center-punching 4-inch AR500 squares at 100 yards with and without the Tig in front of the Elcan — no difference.
At 2x digital zoom on the Tig there was about a 2-MOA POI shift. Still good enough for Gubmint work. At 4x and 6x digital magnification (36x optical equivalent) POI shift was 6-8 MOA.
That was the third optic I tested with little to no shift at 1x. To tighen things up, I’ll need to manually collimate 2x-6x, if I want to use digital magnification (which I do). Overall, I’m pleasantly surprised that I don’t need to collimate at 1x native magnification on the Tig.
@Surgeon_Shooter what was this "trick"? I've got one inbound...
Have you had an opportunity to measure POI shift with a 2X digital and some analog magnification?
Crushes the LWTS-LR. I’ve compared it directly to my UTC in previous posts in this thread. See those.
So sorry guys, I’ve been covered with builds. I literally have 25 pvs-24’s I’m re tubing and working on as well as a bunch of other complex builds.
I have my poor wife gasping for air as well with invoices and orders so she hasn’t gotten around to getting the video I recorded edited yet either but I’ll try and make time for her so she can get it to you guys. It would be better if you just watched the video instead of me trying to type it here. I’m no public speaker but not a typing pro either haha
thanks
Jay
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