While doing an online search for cleaning a sealed .22 suppressor, I happened to find a company that provides a service that looks interesting. SRI or "Stalking Rino Industries" will take your sealed can and convert it to a serviceable unit and clean it. It sounds like they remove one or both ends, install a removable knurled end, bead blast the internals and reassemble it. I have at least 1500 rounds through my AAC Pilot and was planning on starting the replacement process anticipating it eventually filling up with too much crap. They offer to do this upgrade for a little more than the cost of a tax stamp. I was wondering if anyone has done this and how it turned out. SRI's link
Suppressors "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
- Thread starter Hammertime
- Start date
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Is there any reason you wouldn't send it back to AAC to have them clean your can out?
Is there any reason you wouldn't send it back to AAC to have them clean your can out?
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
I'd be interested in knowing precisely how they are doing what they are doing, including all necessary modifications to the suppressor's outer tube and internals before getting too far into the process. With what they are offering, you could very easily run afoul of the NFA rules as interpreted by the BATF with respect to modification of the outer tube, change in dimensions of the suppressor, etc., etc.
I would hope that they'd be aware of and complying with those rulings, but with the potential legal ramifications, I'd damn sure be getting a more detailed description of everything that will be done to one of my cans before proceeding with any modifications.
I'd be interested in knowing precisely how they are doing what they are doing, including all necessary modifications to the suppressor's outer tube and internals before getting too far into the process. With what they are offering, you could very easily run afoul of the NFA rules as interpreted by the BATF with respect to modification of the outer tube, change in dimensions of the suppressor, etc., etc.
I would hope that they'd be aware of and complying with those rulings, but with the potential legal ramifications, I'd damn sure be getting a more detailed description of everything that will be done to one of my cans before proceeding with any modifications.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Ord,
If you go to SRI's sight they explain what is done to the can, and show the baffle replacement. No alteration other than end cap threading and replacement are done. The tube is left intact. Their menu of cans that are accepted for jailbreaking are limited.
It is a pretty neat idea for the cans they work on, just bringing older cans up to current technology.
Ord,
If you go to SRI's sight they explain what is done to the can, and show the baffle replacement. No alteration other than end cap threading and replacement are done. The tube is left intact. Their menu of cans that are accepted for jailbreaking are limited.
It is a pretty neat idea for the cans they work on, just bringing older cans up to current technology.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
I have two a trident 9 and a UMP45 that I had SRI jail brake for me. Also had the baffles anodized. They do great work. Ill be sending my WraithXL to them for the same. If you dont see your can on the list, email Matt and ask.
I have two a trident 9 and a UMP45 that I had SRI jail brake for me. Also had the baffles anodized. They do great work. Ill be sending my WraithXL to them for the same. If you dont see your can on the list, email Matt and ask.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: In2b8u</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ord,
If you go to SRI's sight they explain what is done to the can, and show the baffle replacement. No alteration other than end cap threading and replacement are done. The tube is left intact. Their menu of cans that are accepted for jailbreaking are limited.
It is a pretty neat idea for the cans they work on, just bringing older cans up to current technology. </div></div>
Gotcha. I had difficulty pulling their site up from work (no idea why since most others will show up), so I didn't know what exactly was being done to the can itself (aside from obviously making it end-user serviceable with something like a thread-on end cap, etc.). I assumed it would be something along those lines, but didn't want anyone jumping in feet first without testing the water first!
Thanks for setting me straight.
And with that said, it seems as though this might be a viable solution for some folks in need. Did the site give any pricing info (for those of us still stuck behind the inevitable firewall of doom)?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: In2b8u</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ord,
If you go to SRI's sight they explain what is done to the can, and show the baffle replacement. No alteration other than end cap threading and replacement are done. The tube is left intact. Their menu of cans that are accepted for jailbreaking are limited.
It is a pretty neat idea for the cans they work on, just bringing older cans up to current technology. </div></div>
Gotcha. I had difficulty pulling their site up from work (no idea why since most others will show up), so I didn't know what exactly was being done to the can itself (aside from obviously making it end-user serviceable with something like a thread-on end cap, etc.). I assumed it would be something along those lines, but didn't want anyone jumping in feet first without testing the water first!
And with that said, it seems as though this might be a viable solution for some folks in need. Did the site give any pricing info (for those of us still stuck behind the inevitable firewall of doom)?
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
So does this automatically void your manufacturer warranty? I would think that it would
So does this automatically void your manufacturer warranty? I would think that it would
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
It is a great idea... Why live with a sealed can?
It is a great idea... Why live with a sealed can?
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
sanman, thanks for the good review. I emailed SRI today asking on turnaround time and received a quick response. They seem like a good place to do business. They did say the typical turnaround time is 8-10 weeks, depending on how often they run batches of anodizing. A little longer than I hoped, but seems like it will be worth it. Good winter project.
Charger, I'm sure it voids the warranty, but I've had the can for a couple years and this seems like it will save the can in the long run.
ORD, I think it was 225.00 for aluminum, more for Titanium.
sanman, thanks for the good review. I emailed SRI today asking on turnaround time and received a quick response. They seem like a good place to do business. They did say the typical turnaround time is 8-10 weeks, depending on how often they run batches of anodizing. A little longer than I hoped, but seems like it will be worth it. Good winter project.
Charger, I'm sure it voids the warranty, but I've had the can for a couple years and this seems like it will save the can in the long run.
ORD, I think it was 225.00 for aluminum, more for Titanium.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Will AAC clean your pilot for you? If they will that is new to me. I have a pilot with about 5000 rds through it and it is starting to get heavy. It still sounds great. I am not going to do anything until it starts to get loud.
Mike
Will AAC clean your pilot for you? If they will that is new to me. I have a pilot with about 5000 rds through it and it is starting to get heavy. It still sounds great. I am not going to do anything until it starts to get loud.
Mike
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Jail broken trident 9
Jail broken and anodized UMP45
Jail broken trident 9
Jail broken and anodized UMP45
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Have you tried cleaning your can yourself? You can use hydrogen peroxide and plug one end and let it soak. Do this several times letting it soak for 2 hours or so each time. Why do you feel that your can needs cleaning? Are you having problems with it? I have over 6000 rounds through one of my cans and have yet to clean it. It continues to function as expected as it did the day I got it.
Have you tried cleaning your can yourself? You can use hydrogen peroxide and plug one end and let it soak. Do this several times letting it soak for 2 hours or so each time. Why do you feel that your can needs cleaning? Are you having problems with it? I have over 6000 rounds through one of my cans and have yet to clean it. It continues to function as expected as it did the day I got it.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> bead blast the internals and reassemble it. </div></div>
Wouldn't this roughen the surfaces making them more prone to build up?
L
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> bead blast the internals and reassemble it. </div></div>
Wouldn't this roughen the surfaces making them more prone to build up?
L
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Damn those guys are not far from me, looks like they done some nice work.
If anyone has cleaned a take apart .22 can, you know it needs to be cleaned. My .22 can has weighed twice as much as specs when dirty...
Damn those guys are not far from me, looks like they done some nice work.
If anyone has cleaned a take apart .22 can, you know it needs to be cleaned. My .22 can has weighed twice as much as specs when dirty...
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Strongly recommend following RTO's advice.
Strongly recommend following RTO's advice.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Agreed 346 .22 cans need to be cleaned regularly. I misread the post and was referring to center fire cans which I have yet to see a need to clean.
.22 cans need to be cleaned regularly.
I have had good results cleaning my own .22 cans that do not come apart.
Agreed 346 .22 cans need to be cleaned regularly. I misread the post and was referring to center fire cans which I have yet to see a need to clean.
.22 cans need to be cleaned regularly.
I have had good results cleaning my own .22 cans that do not come apart.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Liberty has been providing this service for several years, I've never heard of any problems from customers.
Liberty has been providing this service for several years, I've never heard of any problems from customers.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 346ci</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My .22 can has weighed twice as much as specs when dirty... </div></div>
That is the lead build up - expressly why take apart cans are desirable. Given the wait time, stamp cost, and options - I am amazed anyone is willing to buy a sealed RF can today.
Good luck
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 346ci</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My .22 can has weighed twice as much as specs when dirty... </div></div>
That is the lead build up - expressly why take apart cans are desirable. Given the wait time, stamp cost, and options - I am amazed anyone is willing to buy a sealed RF can today.
Good luck
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Talked to Matt ...They will NOT do Certerfire Rifle Cans ! Bummer
Talked to Matt ...They will NOT do Certerfire Rifle Cans ! Bummer
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mo_Zam_Beek</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 346ci</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My .22 can has weighed twice as much as specs when dirty... </div></div>
That is the lead build up - expressly why take apart cans are desirable. Given the wait time, stamp cost, and options - I am amazed anyone is willing to buy a sealed RF can today.
Good luck </div></div>
Yup, going to buy a contained soda blaster soon, my can is a PITA to clean...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mo_Zam_Beek</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 346ci</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My .22 can has weighed twice as much as specs when dirty... </div></div>
That is the lead build up - expressly why take apart cans are desirable. Given the wait time, stamp cost, and options - I am amazed anyone is willing to buy a sealed RF can today.
Good luck </div></div>
Yup, going to buy a contained soda blaster soon, my can is a PITA to clean...
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Hi Guys, this is Matt from Stalking Rhino Ind.
Thanks to the Hide member that emailed me about this thread.
I have read the board for years but joined today. I look forward to being able to help you guys out and answer any questions you may have.
Here are responses from this thread, will try to cover everything mentioned.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While doing an online search for cleaning a sealed .22 suppressor, I happened to find a company that provides a service that looks interesting. SRI or "Stalking Rino Industries" will take your sealed can and convert it to a serviceable unit and clean it............</div></div>
We do not remove both ends of the suppressor unless its absolutely necessary and discussed with the customer prior to moving forward.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Charger442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there any reason you wouldn't send it back to AAC to have them clean your can out? </div></div>
AAC will not clean your can the last time I checked, this may have changed, and if they did clean it it would be returned sealed up again only to die a slow and loud death.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd be interested in knowing precisely how they are doing what they are doing, including all necessary modifications to the suppressor's outer tube and internals before getting too far into the process. With what they are offering, you could very easily run afoul of the NFA rules as interpreted by the BATF with respect to modification of the outer tube, change in dimensions of the suppressor, etc., etc.
I would hope that they'd be aware of and complying with those rulings, but with the potential legal ramifications, I'd damn sure be getting a more detailed description of everything that will be done to one of my cans before proceeding with any modifications. </div></div>
You are incorrect, there is no "easy way to run afoul" with BATFE rules or regulations with what we do. We are a licensed nfa manufacturer(FFL07/02SOT) we follow the rules to a "T" and we are 100% aware of the potential legal issues that there may be. We keep a pulse with the ATF about those issues to ensure they don't become a problem, and we stay well within all parameters and have field questions from the BATFE from time to time. The ATF agrees that we are not doing anything remotely illegal, or even remotely grey area for that matter. We are not modifying the suppressors as far as the ATF is concerned. The dimensions of the suppressor do not change. Only on a few models is there a slight modification done to the last baffle to allow for our user serviceable endcap. If anyone ever has a question about the legalities they can give me a call and we can discuss it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: In2b8u</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Their menu of cans that are accepted for jailbreaking are limited.</div></div>
We can jailbreak most rimfire and centerfire pistol can. There are a few limitations based on the original manufacturer's designs(primarily those that weld their pistol cans like AWC). The list on my website is a reference of most of the popular cans we jailbreak. As the website says if you don't see it ask, good chance that we have done one. We do get new ones in all the time, just no sense on having a mile long list of obscure local town mfg or defunct out of business cans.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Charger442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So does this automatically void your manufacturer warranty? I would think that it would </div></div>
We get this question daily. Technically it does void the warranty, however we have had 90% of the manufacturer retain their warranties after we did the work. In fact most manufacturers recommend/refer their customers to us for the conversion. We recently had a manufacturer deal with a warranty issue and they still honored the full warranty. The suppressor was returned to its owner with a non-serviceable endcap and we jailbroke again at no charge. Afterall our customer paid for a serviceable can.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you tried cleaning your can yourself? You can use hydrogen peroxide and plug one end and let it soak. Do this several times letting it soak for 2 hours or so each time. Why do you feel that your can needs cleaning? Are you having problems with it? I have over 6000 rounds through one of my cans and have yet to clean it. It continues to function as expected as it did the day I got it. </div></div>
We have had only 1 customer come back and say it didn't sound any quieter than it was before. Most customers are amazed and didn't realize how loud it had gotten over the years of shooting their can.
The OP's can is an AAC Pilot, it is an aluminum tube along with all aluminum internals. Below is a picture of what we found inside an aluminum 9mm can that the user dipped over a period of a year time before he found our service. This was the blast spacer on that can. This spacer was anodized aluminum, we polished the rim to get rid of the sharp edge so we can use it for demo purposes. We replaced the damaged spacer with a titanium spacer.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Layton</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> bead blast the internals and reassemble it. </div></div>
Wouldn't this roughen the surfaces making them more prone to build up?
L </div></div>
We don't "bead blast" the internals in general, we use walnut and remove as much buildup as possible. We bead blast the steel baffles and the non anodized baffles prior to anodizing. Anything beyond that is discussed with the customer prior to performing it. No, the bead blast does not promote buildup and we do check with customers overtime to see if there are any issues, none reported.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Strongly recommend following RTO's advice. </div></div>
On what basis? The hydrogen peroxide/white vinegar mix eats aluminum as seen in the picture above, when mixed with rimfire residue creates lead acetate, a hazmat disposed material. I know most cans have blowback, I am sure shooters don't want to be ingesting skin permeable lead. Heavy metal poisoning is not a fun experience.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Agreed 346 .22 cans need to be cleaned regularly. I misread the post and was referring to center fire cans which I have yet to see a need to clean.
.22 cans need to be cleaned regularly.
I have had good results cleaning my own .22 cans that do not come apart. </div></div>
Centerfire pistol cans need to be cleaned as well, just not as often as rimfire. You can shoot 2 to 3 times as many centerifre pistol rounds without cleaning it compared to the .22lr
Here are a few pictures of centerfire pistol cans we jailbroke.
To say that centerfire pistol cans don't need to be cleaned is just repeating the manufacturers claims from the past decades, yet they are all starting to make user serviceable cans. Either they are finally admitting to a need to clean pistol cans or they are succumbing to peer pressure.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DFOOSKING</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just straight hydrogen peroxide?
This different than "the dip"?
This is the first time I've heard of straight H.P.
You don't need to clean every 1500 rounds...but I'd say 3K would be wise. I've got over 10K in my Aviator...it has seen Kroil and that's it. My can is half a quiet as new but still is quiet...just nowhere near what it was. In the last year I've noticed FRP is alot more common.
Sealed can suck </div></div>
The dip is 50% Hydrogen Peroxide and 50% White Vinegar. If your can is aluminum you do not want to do that as the mixture of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar eats aluminum.
I have not noticed many negative effects with using straight HP. It seems benign alone. I wouldn't recommend it until there is long term testing of it just in case.
Kroil does nothing to limit or remove the buildup inside a sealed silencer. What it does it loosens the material that has not fully bonded to the baffles or walls or other buildup. As soon as you shoot it again and the can is not bone dry it now promotes buildup in those wet areas. Think about it like 10 steps of buildup forward and 1 step of cleanup back.
You can get your Aviator jailbroken, or at least checked out to see if its viable or not. That's alot of rounds to be fighting through to extract the core without damaging the tube or the baffles.
There is a reason why before GemTax that manufacturers would just crush the can, serialize a new tube with your serial and ship it back.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Red_SC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Liberty has been providing this service for several years, I've never heard of any problems from customers. </div></div>
Yes, Dave used to offer this service. In the last 8 or 9 months Dave highly recommends us to his customers for any jailbreaking needs as well as recores. He stopped providing the jailbreaking service so he can focus on his product line.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Twisted .308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Talked to Matt ...They will NOT do Certerfire Rifle Cans ! Bummer </div></div>
No unfortunately we do not jailbreak rifle cans. There is not enough buildup to make it a concern and the risk is too high. There are too many things that could go wrong with a non factory designed user serviceable rifle can.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 346ci</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Yup, going to buy a contained soda blaster soon, my can is a PITA to clean... </div></div>
The soda blaster will only clean the areas it can get to under pressure, you won't get behind or under the baffles or very far off axis with that, just a ton of white dust. Be careful as well as soda blasting can and will remove anodizing and damage the tube and baffles if held in one place too long. it kills grass as well so don't do it in the yard.
SanMan is one of the many customers we have done work on their cans and have referenced or are members on the Hide. I am sure others will chime in with their experience.
As anyone that has already spoken with me will tell you, I am a pretty approachable guy and always open for a chat. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
This turned out longer than I expected, thanks to all that stuck it out and read the whole thing! I hope this helped to get a little more information out there and clear up concerns or questions you guys have expressed.
Hi Guys, this is Matt from Stalking Rhino Ind.
Thanks to the Hide member that emailed me about this thread.
I have read the board for years but joined today. I look forward to being able to help you guys out and answer any questions you may have.
Here are responses from this thread, will try to cover everything mentioned.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While doing an online search for cleaning a sealed .22 suppressor, I happened to find a company that provides a service that looks interesting. SRI or "Stalking Rino Industries" will take your sealed can and convert it to a serviceable unit and clean it............</div></div>
We do not remove both ends of the suppressor unless its absolutely necessary and discussed with the customer prior to moving forward.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Charger442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there any reason you wouldn't send it back to AAC to have them clean your can out? </div></div>
AAC will not clean your can the last time I checked, this may have changed, and if they did clean it it would be returned sealed up again only to die a slow and loud death.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd be interested in knowing precisely how they are doing what they are doing, including all necessary modifications to the suppressor's outer tube and internals before getting too far into the process. With what they are offering, you could very easily run afoul of the NFA rules as interpreted by the BATF with respect to modification of the outer tube, change in dimensions of the suppressor, etc., etc.
I would hope that they'd be aware of and complying with those rulings, but with the potential legal ramifications, I'd damn sure be getting a more detailed description of everything that will be done to one of my cans before proceeding with any modifications. </div></div>
You are incorrect, there is no "easy way to run afoul" with BATFE rules or regulations with what we do. We are a licensed nfa manufacturer(FFL07/02SOT) we follow the rules to a "T" and we are 100% aware of the potential legal issues that there may be. We keep a pulse with the ATF about those issues to ensure they don't become a problem, and we stay well within all parameters and have field questions from the BATFE from time to time. The ATF agrees that we are not doing anything remotely illegal, or even remotely grey area for that matter. We are not modifying the suppressors as far as the ATF is concerned. The dimensions of the suppressor do not change. Only on a few models is there a slight modification done to the last baffle to allow for our user serviceable endcap. If anyone ever has a question about the legalities they can give me a call and we can discuss it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: In2b8u</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Their menu of cans that are accepted for jailbreaking are limited.</div></div>
We can jailbreak most rimfire and centerfire pistol can. There are a few limitations based on the original manufacturer's designs(primarily those that weld their pistol cans like AWC). The list on my website is a reference of most of the popular cans we jailbreak. As the website says if you don't see it ask, good chance that we have done one. We do get new ones in all the time, just no sense on having a mile long list of obscure local town mfg or defunct out of business cans.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Charger442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So does this automatically void your manufacturer warranty? I would think that it would </div></div>
We get this question daily. Technically it does void the warranty, however we have had 90% of the manufacturer retain their warranties after we did the work. In fact most manufacturers recommend/refer their customers to us for the conversion. We recently had a manufacturer deal with a warranty issue and they still honored the full warranty. The suppressor was returned to its owner with a non-serviceable endcap and we jailbroke again at no charge. Afterall our customer paid for a serviceable can.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you tried cleaning your can yourself? You can use hydrogen peroxide and plug one end and let it soak. Do this several times letting it soak for 2 hours or so each time. Why do you feel that your can needs cleaning? Are you having problems with it? I have over 6000 rounds through one of my cans and have yet to clean it. It continues to function as expected as it did the day I got it. </div></div>
We have had only 1 customer come back and say it didn't sound any quieter than it was before. Most customers are amazed and didn't realize how loud it had gotten over the years of shooting their can.
The OP's can is an AAC Pilot, it is an aluminum tube along with all aluminum internals. Below is a picture of what we found inside an aluminum 9mm can that the user dipped over a period of a year time before he found our service. This was the blast spacer on that can. This spacer was anodized aluminum, we polished the rim to get rid of the sharp edge so we can use it for demo purposes. We replaced the damaged spacer with a titanium spacer.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Layton</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> bead blast the internals and reassemble it. </div></div>
Wouldn't this roughen the surfaces making them more prone to build up?
L </div></div>
We don't "bead blast" the internals in general, we use walnut and remove as much buildup as possible. We bead blast the steel baffles and the non anodized baffles prior to anodizing. Anything beyond that is discussed with the customer prior to performing it. No, the bead blast does not promote buildup and we do check with customers overtime to see if there are any issues, none reported.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Strongly recommend following RTO's advice. </div></div>
On what basis? The hydrogen peroxide/white vinegar mix eats aluminum as seen in the picture above, when mixed with rimfire residue creates lead acetate, a hazmat disposed material. I know most cans have blowback, I am sure shooters don't want to be ingesting skin permeable lead. Heavy metal poisoning is not a fun experience.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Agreed 346 .22 cans need to be cleaned regularly. I misread the post and was referring to center fire cans which I have yet to see a need to clean.
.22 cans need to be cleaned regularly.
I have had good results cleaning my own .22 cans that do not come apart. </div></div>
Centerfire pistol cans need to be cleaned as well, just not as often as rimfire. You can shoot 2 to 3 times as many centerifre pistol rounds without cleaning it compared to the .22lr
Here are a few pictures of centerfire pistol cans we jailbroke.
To say that centerfire pistol cans don't need to be cleaned is just repeating the manufacturers claims from the past decades, yet they are all starting to make user serviceable cans. Either they are finally admitting to a need to clean pistol cans or they are succumbing to peer pressure.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DFOOSKING</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just straight hydrogen peroxide?
This different than "the dip"?
This is the first time I've heard of straight H.P.
You don't need to clean every 1500 rounds...but I'd say 3K would be wise. I've got over 10K in my Aviator...it has seen Kroil and that's it. My can is half a quiet as new but still is quiet...just nowhere near what it was. In the last year I've noticed FRP is alot more common.
Sealed can suck </div></div>
The dip is 50% Hydrogen Peroxide and 50% White Vinegar. If your can is aluminum you do not want to do that as the mixture of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar eats aluminum.
I have not noticed many negative effects with using straight HP. It seems benign alone. I wouldn't recommend it until there is long term testing of it just in case.
Kroil does nothing to limit or remove the buildup inside a sealed silencer. What it does it loosens the material that has not fully bonded to the baffles or walls or other buildup. As soon as you shoot it again and the can is not bone dry it now promotes buildup in those wet areas. Think about it like 10 steps of buildup forward and 1 step of cleanup back.
You can get your Aviator jailbroken, or at least checked out to see if its viable or not. That's alot of rounds to be fighting through to extract the core without damaging the tube or the baffles.
There is a reason why before GemTax that manufacturers would just crush the can, serialize a new tube with your serial and ship it back.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Red_SC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Liberty has been providing this service for several years, I've never heard of any problems from customers. </div></div>
Yes, Dave used to offer this service. In the last 8 or 9 months Dave highly recommends us to his customers for any jailbreaking needs as well as recores. He stopped providing the jailbreaking service so he can focus on his product line.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Twisted .308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Talked to Matt ...They will NOT do Certerfire Rifle Cans ! Bummer </div></div>
No unfortunately we do not jailbreak rifle cans. There is not enough buildup to make it a concern and the risk is too high. There are too many things that could go wrong with a non factory designed user serviceable rifle can.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 346ci</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Yup, going to buy a contained soda blaster soon, my can is a PITA to clean... </div></div>
The soda blaster will only clean the areas it can get to under pressure, you won't get behind or under the baffles or very far off axis with that, just a ton of white dust. Be careful as well as soda blasting can and will remove anodizing and damage the tube and baffles if held in one place too long. it kills grass as well so don't do it in the yard.
SanMan is one of the many customers we have done work on their cans and have referenced or are members on the Hide. I am sure others will chime in with their experience.
As anyone that has already spoken with me will tell you, I am a pretty approachable guy and always open for a chat. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
This turned out longer than I expected, thanks to all that stuck it out and read the whole thing! I hope this helped to get a little more information out there and clear up concerns or questions you guys have expressed.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Matt, thanks for all the info. I'm happy the original post generated some interest and got you on here. You will be getting my Pilot in for service as soon as I can part with it! I was actually considering a soda blaster for cleaning once I can take it apart, will a different material work?
Matt, thanks for all the info. I'm happy the original post generated some interest and got you on here. You will be getting my Pilot in for service as soon as I can part with it! I was actually considering a soda blaster for cleaning once I can take it apart, will a different material work?
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Matt, thanks for all the info. I'm happy the original post generated some interest and got you on here. You will be getting my Pilot in for service as soon as I can part with it! I was actually considering a soda blaster for cleaning once I can take it apart, will a different material work? </div></div>
If you don't have an actual blast cabinet I would just suggest the soda blaster, just don't concentrate too much on one area or it will damage the anodizing or the raw aluminum(depending ont he age of your Pilot). If you have a really tough area you can use something like Hoppes to break it down more. When you get it back it will be pretty darn clean, up to you to keep it that way!
Glad to be a part of this forum.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Matt, thanks for all the info. I'm happy the original post generated some interest and got you on here. You will be getting my Pilot in for service as soon as I can part with it! I was actually considering a soda blaster for cleaning once I can take it apart, will a different material work? </div></div>
If you don't have an actual blast cabinet I would just suggest the soda blaster, just don't concentrate too much on one area or it will damage the anodizing or the raw aluminum(depending ont he age of your Pilot). If you have a really tough area you can use something like Hoppes to break it down more. When you get it back it will be pretty darn clean, up to you to keep it that way!
Glad to be a part of this forum.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: StalkingRhino</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Matt, thanks for all the info. I'm happy the original post generated some interest and got you on here. You will be getting my Pilot in for service as soon as I can part with it! I was actually considering a soda blaster for cleaning once I can take it apart, will a different material work? </div></div>
If you don't have an actual blast cabinet I would just suggest the soda blaster, just don't concentrate too much on one area or it will damage the anodizing or the raw aluminum(depending ont he age of your Pilot). If you have a really tough area you can use something like Hoppes to break it down more. When you get it back it will be pretty darn clean, up to you to keep it that way!
Glad to be a part of this forum. </div></div>
Thanks for the info!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: StalkingRhino</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Matt, thanks for all the info. I'm happy the original post generated some interest and got you on here. You will be getting my Pilot in for service as soon as I can part with it! I was actually considering a soda blaster for cleaning once I can take it apart, will a different material work? </div></div>
If you don't have an actual blast cabinet I would just suggest the soda blaster, just don't concentrate too much on one area or it will damage the anodizing or the raw aluminum(depending ont he age of your Pilot). If you have a really tough area you can use something like Hoppes to break it down more. When you get it back it will be pretty darn clean, up to you to keep it that way!
Glad to be a part of this forum. </div></div>
Thanks for the info!
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Very interesting, Matt. Pics are helpful.
Very interesting, Matt. Pics are helpful.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
I will post some more pictures on the next .22lr, 9mm and 45ACP we get in.
Is there a request for more pictures? Any that would help make a point?
To say they don't need cleaning is only denial.
I will post some more pictures on the next .22lr, 9mm and 45ACP we get in.
Is there a request for more pictures? Any that would help make a point?
To say they don't need cleaning is only denial.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
I have a YHM Mite and use the Stainless Steel Media cleaning method. Here are my results. Some are going to say WOW good idea and some are going to Bitch that it will ruin a can. Decide for yourself.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3484248
I have a YHM Mite and use the Stainless Steel Media cleaning method. Here are my results. Some are going to say WOW good idea and some are going to Bitch that it will ruin a can. Decide for yourself.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3484248
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a YHM Mite and use the Stainless Steel Media cleaning method. Here are my results. Some are going to say WOW good idea and some are going to Bitch that it will ruin a can. Decide for yourself.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3484248 </div></div>
The anodizing on the monocore is really damaged, all the silver edges are broken. That IS the reason why the SS tumbler is not recommended, you kill the edges and destroy the efficiency of the baffles, it is only a Mite so you probably won't notice the difference.
Anodizing does more than just make it look pretty. it helps protect the weak aluminum from damage, erosion and corrosion.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a YHM Mite and use the Stainless Steel Media cleaning method. Here are my results. Some are going to say WOW good idea and some are going to Bitch that it will ruin a can. Decide for yourself.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3484248 </div></div>
The anodizing on the monocore is really damaged, all the silver edges are broken. That IS the reason why the SS tumbler is not recommended, you kill the edges and destroy the efficiency of the baffles, it is only a Mite so you probably won't notice the difference.
Anodizing does more than just make it look pretty. it helps protect the weak aluminum from damage, erosion and corrosion.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: StalkingRhino</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a YHM Mite and use the Stainless Steel Media cleaning method. Here are my results. Some are going to say WOW good idea and some are going to Bitch that it will ruin a can. Decide for yourself.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3484248 </div></div>
The anodizing on the monocore is really damaged, all the silver edges are broken. That IS the reason why the SS tumbler is not recommended, you kill the edges and destroy the efficiency of the baffles, <span style="color: #FF0000">it is only a Mite so you probably won't notice the difference.</span> Guess your another one that thinks the Mite is the worst thing to happen to suppressors.
Anodizing does more than just make it look pretty. <span style="color: #FF0000">it helps protect the weak aluminum from damage, erosion and corrosion</span>. Over 6k rounds later, no signs of erosion or corrosion </div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: StalkingRhino</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a YHM Mite and use the Stainless Steel Media cleaning method. Here are my results. Some are going to say WOW good idea and some are going to Bitch that it will ruin a can. Decide for yourself.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3484248 </div></div>
The anodizing on the monocore is really damaged, all the silver edges are broken. That IS the reason why the SS tumbler is not recommended, you kill the edges and destroy the efficiency of the baffles, <span style="color: #FF0000">it is only a Mite so you probably won't notice the difference.</span> Guess your another one that thinks the Mite is the worst thing to happen to suppressors.
Anodizing does more than just make it look pretty. <span style="color: #FF0000">it helps protect the weak aluminum from damage, erosion and corrosion</span>. Over 6k rounds later, no signs of erosion or corrosion </div></div>
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: StalkingRhino</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a YHM Mite and use the Stainless Steel Media cleaning method. Here are my results. Some are going to say WOW good idea and some are going to Bitch that it will ruin a can. Decide for yourself.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3484248 </div></div>
The anodizing on the monocore is really damaged, all the silver edges are broken. That IS the reason why the SS tumbler is not recommended, you kill the edges and destroy the efficiency of the baffles, <span style="color: #FF0000">it is only a Mite so you probably won't notice the difference.</span> Guess your another one that thinks the Mite is the worst thing to happen to suppressors.
Anodizing does more than just make it look pretty. <span style="color: #FF0000">it helps protect the weak aluminum from damage, erosion and corrosion</span>. Over 6k rounds later, no signs of erosion or corrosion </div></div> </div></div>
For the most part the YHM Mite is an excellent beginners can, one that after you have buyers remorse you still have funds to get a better performing one or have it recored.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: StalkingRhino</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a YHM Mite and use the Stainless Steel Media cleaning method. Here are my results. Some are going to say WOW good idea and some are going to Bitch that it will ruin a can. Decide for yourself.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3484248 </div></div>
The anodizing on the monocore is really damaged, all the silver edges are broken. That IS the reason why the SS tumbler is not recommended, you kill the edges and destroy the efficiency of the baffles, <span style="color: #FF0000">it is only a Mite so you probably won't notice the difference.</span> Guess your another one that thinks the Mite is the worst thing to happen to suppressors.
Anodizing does more than just make it look pretty. <span style="color: #FF0000">it helps protect the weak aluminum from damage, erosion and corrosion</span>. Over 6k rounds later, no signs of erosion or corrosion </div></div> </div></div>
For the most part the YHM Mite is an excellent beginners can, one that after you have buyers remorse you still have funds to get a better performing one or have it recored.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
SR, the mite is not an excellent anything unless you are the recore guy looking to make a buck. What do you do mr. Stalkingrino?
Save your cash and buy a excellent product the first time. You will be much happier.
SR, the mite is not an excellent anything unless you are the recore guy looking to make a buck. What do you do mr. Stalkingrino?
Save your cash and buy a excellent product the first time. You will be much happier.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Matt, thanks for the conversation and all the info you provided last night. My Pilot is on the way, please post pics if possible.
Matt, thanks for the conversation and all the info you provided last night. My Pilot is on the way, please post pics if possible.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Leave the guy alone he's just trying to help you out with a problem one of you emailed him
Leave the guy alone he's just trying to help you out with a problem one of you emailed him
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Matt, thanks for the conversation and all the info you provided last night. My Pilot is on the way, please post pics if possible. </div></div>
Will post pictures as soon as we are inside!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Matt, thanks for the conversation and all the info you provided last night. My Pilot is on the way, please post pics if possible. </div></div>
Will post pictures as soon as we are inside!
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Can you do a Jet .22 ti can? I also have a a .338 ti Jet can that I am thinking about changing the threads from AI metic to a standard thread. Is this something you can do? The cans are great but I don't ever want to send them back to the manufacturer, I might never see them again.
Can you do a Jet .22 ti can? I also have a a .338 ti Jet can that I am thinking about changing the threads from AI metic to a standard thread. Is this something you can do? The cans are great but I don't ever want to send them back to the manufacturer, I might never see them again.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
I'm liking this idea. Thanks for posting.
I'm liking this idea. Thanks for posting.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you tried cleaning your can yourself? You can use hydrogen peroxide and plug one end and let it soak. Do this several times letting it soak for 2 hours or so each time. Why do you feel that your can needs cleaning? Are you having problems with it? I have over 6000 rounds through one of my cans and have yet to clean it. It continues to function as expected as it did the day I got it. </div></div>
This trick work with centerfire rifle suppressors? Or is this a lead removal thing? And as a strong oxidizer, couldn't that pose problems for some internals that are ferrous (some stainless will rust, but I know for a fact the stuff AAC uses in that SDN6 won't under normal conditions)? If not mistaken, AAC recommends cleaning the SDN6 by soaking in some strong solvents overnight, from Hoppes to acetone, then rinsing in water or running through the dishwasher (imagine the guy that shoots a can full of acetone without rinsing or letting it dry properly!).
Now, not so sure if or when you need to clean a centerfire rifle suppressor, but when I shoot, I shoot ungodly amounts of ammo through it.
I plan on getting an integral .22, but that one will most definitely be a take apart --I'd have 1000 rounds on day one easy (I'd probably shoot it daily, if not all day long). Been looking at S&H for a long time, ever since shooting one years ago I've been hooked. When this shit blows over, that will be at the top of the list. Wife wants it bad too.
Personally, I wouldn't get a .22 can that wasn't take apart. Particularly an integral. But this place seems like a nice fix for those that have clogged .22 cans. Will keep this in mind, thanks.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you tried cleaning your can yourself? You can use hydrogen peroxide and plug one end and let it soak. Do this several times letting it soak for 2 hours or so each time. Why do you feel that your can needs cleaning? Are you having problems with it? I have over 6000 rounds through one of my cans and have yet to clean it. It continues to function as expected as it did the day I got it. </div></div>
This trick work with centerfire rifle suppressors? Or is this a lead removal thing? And as a strong oxidizer, couldn't that pose problems for some internals that are ferrous (some stainless will rust, but I know for a fact the stuff AAC uses in that SDN6 won't under normal conditions)? If not mistaken, AAC recommends cleaning the SDN6 by soaking in some strong solvents overnight, from Hoppes to acetone, then rinsing in water or running through the dishwasher (imagine the guy that shoots a can full of acetone without rinsing or letting it dry properly!).
Now, not so sure if or when you need to clean a centerfire rifle suppressor, but when I shoot, I shoot ungodly amounts of ammo through it.
I plan on getting an integral .22, but that one will most definitely be a take apart --I'd have 1000 rounds on day one easy (I'd probably shoot it daily, if not all day long). Been looking at S&H for a long time, ever since shooting one years ago I've been hooked. When this shit blows over, that will be at the top of the list. Wife wants it bad too.
Personally, I wouldn't get a .22 can that wasn't take apart. Particularly an integral. But this place seems like a nice fix for those that have clogged .22 cans. Will keep this in mind, thanks.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Google "suppressor dip" and you will find lots of info on this subject. It is a 50:50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I know it to be safe for titanium and stainless steel and absolutely destructive to aluminum. Not sure about carbon steel. TBAC warrants it to be safe for their cans. It is very useful for removing lead, but it can take a little time. The biggist downside is that it produces lead acetate which is fairly toxic. You don't want to touch this stuff or breath the fumes - for me that means outdoors, face shield and nitrile gloves.
I have no problems with the idea of sealed .22 cans that are made of titanium or stainless steel as "the dip" is all that is needed to remove the lead and bring them back to original weight.
Google "suppressor dip" and you will find lots of info on this subject. It is a 50:50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. I know it to be safe for titanium and stainless steel and absolutely destructive to aluminum. Not sure about carbon steel. TBAC warrants it to be safe for their cans. It is very useful for removing lead, but it can take a little time. The biggist downside is that it produces lead acetate which is fairly toxic. You don't want to touch this stuff or breath the fumes - for me that means outdoors, face shield and nitrile gloves.
I have no problems with the idea of sealed .22 cans that are made of titanium or stainless steel as "the dip" is all that is needed to remove the lead and bring them back to original weight.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
I see there is an option between a spanner cap and a knurled cap. Which would be better for a 9mm suppressor?
I see there is an option between a spanner cap and a knurled cap. Which would be better for a 9mm suppressor?
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TwoGun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I see there is an option between a spanner cap and a knurled cap. Which would be better for a 9mm suppressor? </div></div>
The knurled will weigh a little more than the spanner as there is more material used its also larger and more noticeable. There is no need to use any tools for this endcap. Knurling is only available for aluminum at this time, we need to update our website to reflect this.
The spanner is much thinner, it is generally smaller in size than your current endcap(depends on the can in question). The benefit of the spanner is that it uses a tool to remove it and can be torqued tighter so there is less to worry about as far as it coming off. This tool is often the tool that you use for the piston if it has one, if it does not we provide the tool.
Spanner can be had in anodized aluminum or titanium.
Knurling is only available in anodized aluminum at this time.
More of the decision is based on what material you want it made from and the aesthetic appeal you desire as both are perfect for a 9mm suppressor.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TwoGun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I see there is an option between a spanner cap and a knurled cap. Which would be better for a 9mm suppressor? </div></div>
The knurled will weigh a little more than the spanner as there is more material used its also larger and more noticeable. There is no need to use any tools for this endcap. Knurling is only available for aluminum at this time, we need to update our website to reflect this.
The spanner is much thinner, it is generally smaller in size than your current endcap(depends on the can in question). The benefit of the spanner is that it uses a tool to remove it and can be torqued tighter so there is less to worry about as far as it coming off. This tool is often the tool that you use for the piston if it has one, if it does not we provide the tool.
Spanner can be had in anodized aluminum or titanium.
Knurling is only available in anodized aluminum at this time.
More of the decision is based on what material you want it made from and the aesthetic appeal you desire as both are perfect for a 9mm suppressor.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
I have a question out of curiosity. If you jailbreak a can and build a new end cap, say a knurled one, is there a change to the oal of the can and does that effect or need to reflect in the form 4? Just wondering as oal is required on a form 1 as you know and I wasn't sure what the rules were for adjustments to form 4 stuff.
I have a question out of curiosity. If you jailbreak a can and build a new end cap, say a knurled one, is there a change to the oal of the can and does that effect or need to reflect in the form 4? Just wondering as oal is required on a form 1 as you know and I wasn't sure what the rules were for adjustments to form 4 stuff.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Thanks. I'm not sure OAL is all that critical since they all have serial numbers. Hell, the manufacturers don't even get their OALs correct. I have two Gemtechs that don't exactly match the Form 4, one by 1/2" and the other by 3/4".
Sounds like the knurled will add a touch and the spanner not so much. If it bothers you, an update letter can always be sent to ATF. Doesn't change the Form 4, just their record notes. I've had to do address changes, and they've never sent a revised form just a letter stating they've changed their records.
Thanks. I'm not sure OAL is all that critical since they all have serial numbers. Hell, the manufacturers don't even get their OALs correct. I have two Gemtechs that don't exactly match the Form 4, one by 1/2" and the other by 3/4".
Sounds like the knurled will add a touch and the spanner not so much. If it bothers you, an update letter can always be sent to ATF. Doesn't change the Form 4, just their record notes. I've had to do address changes, and they've never sent a revised form just a letter stating they've changed their records.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
Thanks for the info. Sure as hell doesn't bother me as long as they aren't pricks about it, which it sounds like they're not. Roll on.
Thanks for the info. Sure as hell doesn't bother me as long as they aren't pricks about it, which it sounds like they're not. Roll on.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TwoGun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks. I'm not sure OAL is all that critical since they all have serial numbers. Hell, the manufacturers don't even get their OALs correct. I have two Gemtechs that don't exactly match the Form 4, one by 1/2" and the other by 3/4".
Sounds like the knurled will add a touch and the spanner not so much. If it bothers you, an update letter can always be sent to ATF. Doesn't change the Form 4, just their record notes. I've had to do address changes, and they've never sent a revised form just a letter stating they've changed their records. </div></div>
Yes, the knurled is thicker than the spanner so we can get a few solid rows of knurling on it.
We have noticed some manufacturers use their eyes to determine the OAL, and some use calipers.
Some manufacturers measure just the silencer tube, others measure the silencer with the mount and endcap in place. To each their own as there is no right or wrong way per the ATF.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TwoGun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks. I'm not sure OAL is all that critical since they all have serial numbers. Hell, the manufacturers don't even get their OALs correct. I have two Gemtechs that don't exactly match the Form 4, one by 1/2" and the other by 3/4".
Sounds like the knurled will add a touch and the spanner not so much. If it bothers you, an update letter can always be sent to ATF. Doesn't change the Form 4, just their record notes. I've had to do address changes, and they've never sent a revised form just a letter stating they've changed their records. </div></div>
Yes, the knurled is thicker than the spanner so we can get a few solid rows of knurling on it.
We have noticed some manufacturers use their eyes to determine the OAL, and some use calipers.
Some manufacturers measure just the silencer tube, others measure the silencer with the mount and endcap in place. To each their own as there is no right or wrong way per the ATF.
Re: "Jailbreaking" a sealed suppressor
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Killswitch Engage</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a question out of curiosity. If you jailbreak a can and build a new end cap, say a knurled one, is there a change to the oal of the can and does that effect or need to reflect in the form 4? Just wondering as oal is required on a form 1 as you know and I wasn't sure what the rules were for adjustments to form 4 stuff. </div></div>
Most of the time there is no increase in the complete overall length of the can compared to the Form4 length.
According to the ATF as long as we aren't modifying the length of the registered component or increasing the suppression capability then there is no need to modify the Form4 either.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Killswitch Engage</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a question out of curiosity. If you jailbreak a can and build a new end cap, say a knurled one, is there a change to the oal of the can and does that effect or need to reflect in the form 4? Just wondering as oal is required on a form 1 as you know and I wasn't sure what the rules were for adjustments to form 4 stuff. </div></div>
Most of the time there is no increase in the complete overall length of the can compared to the Form4 length.
According to the ATF as long as we aren't modifying the length of the registered component or increasing the suppression capability then there is no need to modify the Form4 either.
Just wanted to post an update and revive the thread. I received my AAC Pilot back from Stalking Rino and am very happy with the results. The fit and finish are excellent and having the ability to open it up and clean it are great. I hope to get it to the range this weekend and will post the results. I was getting a pretty serious POI shift prior to sending it out and hope the cleaning resolved the issue.
I also sent SR a can to be worked on, currently waiting on it to be worked on. Will let you know when I get mine also.
SRI (jail break) review of Trident 9 suppressor - YouTube
I just saw this thread> I got my can back from SRI yesterday and made this video. In short its worth every penny. SRI does an outstanding job. The attention to detail is superb. It will increase the life of your can dramaticly over the years. I got the Ti end cap and its awesome. Thanks To SRI!
I just saw this thread> I got my can back from SRI yesterday and made this video. In short its worth every penny. SRI does an outstanding job. The attention to detail is superb. It will increase the life of your can dramaticly over the years. I got the Ti end cap and its awesome. Thanks To SRI!
