The one and only Krylon, homie.
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The one and only Krylon, homie.
I couldn’t tell you bud. I bought it used off another Hide member and it came already on there.
Somewhere back in this thread, I posted a pic of both my SA and LA cheek risers with attached foam. The foam I used was black sheet hobby foam (from Hobby Lobby) at a whopping $1.29 per 8.5x11” sheet. It comes in several thicknesses. I cut, and applied using regular old contact cement. Once dried, I finished the edges using 1000 grit wet/dry. The LA rquired 3 layers due to the required height needed to allow the bolt to cycle. It has stood the test of use for nearly 12mo now and looks fine. A bit of wear from my face, but still holding up fine. It’s a closed cell product, so no moisture issues.
Nice chassis, nice floors, nice man cave!
For anyone looking to bolt on items, we recommend to loctite things in place. We loctite the screws on the chassis that we think you will not need to remove/loosen.
Justin
For anyone looking to bolt on items, we recommend to loctite things in place. We loctite the screws on the chassis that we think you will not need to remove/loosen.
Justin
Read thru the entire thread looking for negative experiences with the bravo la rem ... didn't find ... so that will probably be next for me ... for a .300WM(24) currently in a McRee G5, which is pretty danged heavy. I'm hunting for these elusive "recoil" issues I've heard about with the bravo chassis 
(Now I have had some "recoil" issues with a Barrett .50BMG shooting it off a tripod on the side of a hill ... ... but other than "stuff coming loose" haven't had any with the bravo and a .308)
Speaking of coming loose ... the Harris on the bottom of the spigot comes loose a lot. I think I will have to move some bipods around and put an Atlas on there. After retightening and torquing to 20 i/p, the Spigot and the NV mount are holding As are the action screws from there original torquing to 65 i/p.
I'm in the "no loctite" school .. and so far only exceptions have been a few cases of scope base screws (on other guns).
And I have to remember, the spigot and nv mount on the bravo are a stop gap until I can get Spuhr A-700 NV mount for the ISMS scope mount. So the stop gap doesn't have to be perfect. If it can get thru one day of day 40rds for target practice and 5 rds at night ... without coming loose, I'm good.
After 26 ( 4 rd ) groups at 100yds, I'm at avg 0.65 inches ... and I know I can do better because the bipod coming loose has affected group size. This is a $600 wally world REM700 SPS TAC AAC-SD .308WIN 20 inch sendero (no 5) barrel dropped in to a bravo with no modifications ... and I think it is a 0.5 MOA setup ... just I am not that good a shooter ... but with this setup I am motivated to get there. Currently shooting 168GR FGMM, though will be switch (back) to 175gr FGMM once this lot is done. And it is embarrassing that an under $1,000 gun beats all my $2,000 McRee setups ! One of which is at avg group size 0.81 for instance.
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Then to try with the .300WM(24) ...
I've looked at the other KRG chassis, but other than offering easier/faster adjustments, I don't see the logic of giving up the lighter weight. I want to be able to hump my guns thru the woods and up and down the creek banks and hills around here ... I was able to shed 3 pounds off my McRee setup by switching to the bravo ... and I will be sheeding closer to 5 pounds (maybe) with the .300WM ...
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(Now I have had some "recoil" issues with a Barrett .50BMG shooting it off a tripod on the side of a hill ...
... but other than "stuff coming loose" haven't had any with the bravo and a .308)Speaking of coming loose ... the Harris on the bottom of the spigot comes loose a lot. I think I will have to move some bipods around and put an Atlas on there. After retightening and torquing to 20 i/p, the Spigot and the NV mount are holding As are the action screws from there original torquing to 65 i/p.
I'm in the "no loctite" school .. and so far only exceptions have been a few cases of scope base screws (on other guns).
And I have to remember, the spigot and nv mount on the bravo are a stop gap until I can get Spuhr A-700 NV mount for the ISMS scope mount. So the stop gap doesn't have to be perfect. If it can get thru one day of day 40rds for target practice and 5 rds at night ... without coming loose, I'm good.
After 26 ( 4 rd ) groups at 100yds, I'm at avg 0.65 inches ... and I know I can do better because the bipod coming loose has affected group size. This is a $600 wally world REM700 SPS TAC AAC-SD .308WIN 20 inch sendero (no 5) barrel dropped in to a bravo with no modifications ... and I think it is a 0.5 MOA setup ... just I am not that good a shooter ... but with this setup I am motivated to get there. Currently shooting 168GR FGMM, though will be switch (back) to 175gr FGMM once this lot is done. And it is embarrassing that an under $1,000 gun beats all my $2,000 McRee setups !
One of which is at avg group size 0.81 for instance.==
Then to try with the .300WM(24) ...
I've looked at the other KRG chassis, but other than offering easier/faster adjustments, I don't see the logic of giving up the lighter weight. I want to be able to hump my guns thru the woods and up and down the creek banks and hills around here ... I was able to shed 3 pounds off my McRee setup by switching to the bravo ... and I will be sheeding closer to 5 pounds (maybe) with the .300WM ...
==
@wigwamitus
If your Harris is one of their swivel bipods you could try the American Defense mount made for Harris Swivel bipods. I have two and have been very pleased with them. They are very secure and clean up the top of the bipod a lot:
https://www.americandefensemanufacturing.com/view/product/1289/
KRG also makes a really nice Harris mount that direct attaches a Harris swivel type bipod to their chassis, spigot, and arca clamp:
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/harris-mount/
If your Harris is one of their swivel bipods you could try the American Defense mount made for Harris Swivel bipods. I have two and have been very pleased with them. They are very secure and clean up the top of the bipod a lot:
https://www.americandefensemanufacturing.com/view/product/1289/
KRG also makes a really nice Harris mount that direct attaches a Harris swivel type bipod to their chassis, spigot, and arca clamp:
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/harris-mount/
Aye. I have 4 harris and 4 of the ADM mounts, though 3 of the 4 ADM mounts are currently sitting in the parts box and one of them never had its box open yet!
It seemed like moving the bipod from the bravo chassis to the spigot made sense when I did it, but in hind sight, I should've left it on the chassis. It wasn't moving there.
The spigot offers no friction so the bipod moves.
So I will move it back to the chassis ... just I'll have to take the barrel off the chassis to do it.
Either that or redeploy one of my atlas to this gun ...
Anyone hear if KRG is coming out with a magwell adapter to run the Tikka T1X mags?
If not, here’s a vote for them to make one.
If not, here’s a vote for them to make one.
Kind of wondering how you think that would work(?).
Could be as simple as an AICS pattern mag block with a separate mag release for the Tikka T1X factory magazine.
Figured this might be a good option for the 22 matches that are becoming more popular.
Figured this might be a good option for the 22 matches that are becoming more popular.
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Regarding the Harris mounted to the Spigot, as mentioned above you can use our direct mounts as one option. However the newer spigots come with two small threaded M4 metric holes on the bottom. You can put 2x M4 socket head screws in there and they will act as stops to keep your Harris bipod from moving if you mount it to a sling stud. The older spigots had slots cut in them that kept the Harris from twisting. It might be difficult to follow reading but if you look at the Spigot you will see what I mean.
Regarding the T1x, it is not exactly a T3 inlet because of the way the magwell bolts on but it's not far off. This may be a good fit in a KRG chassis
Thanks guys.
Justin
Regarding the T1x, it is not exactly a T3 inlet because of the way the magwell bolts on but it's not far off. This may be a good fit in a KRG chassis
Thanks guys.
Justin
Thanks !!!
Thanks Justin! Hope it works out...would be a sweet lil 22/17.Regarding the Harris mounted to the Spigot, as mentioned above you can use our direct mounts as one option. However the newer spigots come with two small threaded M4 metric holes on the bottom. You can put 2x M4 socket head screws in there and they will act as stops to keep your Harris bipod from moving if you mount it to a sling stud. The older spigots had slots cut in them that kept the Harris from twisting. It might be difficult to follow reading but if you look at the Spigot you will see what I mean.
Regarding the T1x, it is not exactly a T3 inlet because of the way the magwell bolts on but it's not far off. This may be a good fit in a KRG chassis
Thanks guys.
Justin
Wanting to buy my sons tikka 308’s for Xmas... Plan is to buy CTR’s and then put in bravo chassis of their color choice. Question - I need 1/LH &1/RH ... Does the ctr or the bravo come in LH? I don’t see where it does. Suggestions?
@Bayoubigcat it is not that simple as a magwell adapter, the integral base pad of the T1x mag hits the bottom of the magwell and you need to make a clearance cut like I show on this MPA
However a existing KRG bravo can be made to fit a T1x with a little re-engineering , for more details see my posts in the T1x thread.
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I have not seen a left handed CTR. @Massoud can answer the Bravo question for you. I believe they are only right handed at this point and time.
No left hand ctrs in the USA. Hopefully there is news at Shot that Beretta is waking up.
All of our T3 chassis have most of the lefty inlet cut in. The remaining part is just cutting the bolt clearance notch in both the aluminum backbone and the polymer grip panel which should be pretty easy.
Justin
Justin
Spent the afternoon getting an INVR to work on a Bravo. PVA's still got my barreled action, but I think the stock is pretty well ready to go. Thanks to Justin for telling me it could be done, I'm real happy with the result.
Shut up, you know the lighting in my house sucks! Haha
Recently had these Bravo's arrive. Couldn't be happier. Great value.
I believe you can, it's just a little costly since I think the rear stock starts around 600 but its do able.
Im testing KRG TRG rear stock in my Bravo, or is it Bravo after this anymore
View attachment 6961989
@skinnj1 nice set ups and thanks for the information on the clearance cut.
Curious if you perhaps tried the Voodoo gun works AICS pattern 22 mag?
https://www.vudoogunworks.com/product/vudoo-v2210-magazine/
Looks like the rounds may sit too far forward for it to work with the T1x.
Curious if you perhaps tried the Voodoo gun works AICS pattern 22 mag?
https://www.vudoogunworks.com/product/vudoo-v2210-magazine/
Looks like the rounds may sit too far forward for it to work with the T1x.
@Bayoubigcat the vudoo mag (as designed)is a no go for the reason you suspect. When I mentioned contemplating making a delrin aics shapped shell for a Tikka T1 mag, Mike Bush was quick to announce he has a patent covering rimfire aics form factor mags....if the geometries of everything could be worked out and brought to market by vudoo or some, it would make T1's plug and play in KRG and other chassis, until then modify the inlets....
Here is Bravo chassis, but rear stoc is changed to fixed trg model from KRG.
There are a lot of guys, who would love to see long action chassis for Tikka rifles by KRG
What hex bit are you using on the front action screw? It seems to take my 4.5mm hex key but I need a socket long enough to fit down in the handguard to torque it to specs. Thanks
... thinking hard about using a tan Bravo for one of my Nucleus actions that just showed up. With my stainless barrel, would look just like the rifle on the bottom and I'm really liking how that looks! Thanks for posting the pics!
Regarding the Harris mounted to the Spigot, as mentioned above you can use our direct mounts as one option. However the newer spigots come with two small threaded M4 metric holes on the bottom. You can put 2x M4 socket head screws in there and they will act as stops to keep your Harris bipod from moving if you mount it to a sling stud. The older spigots had slots cut in them that kept the Harris from twisting. It might be difficult to follow reading but if you look at the Spigot you will see what I mean.
Regarding the T1x, it is not exactly a T3 inlet because of the way the magwell bolts on but it's not far off. This may be a good fit in a KRG chassis
Thanks guys.
Justin
Any chance you guys will start making Arcalock spigots?
I wonder why mine is 4.5mm. It limits my options.
We do have Arca Spigots here: https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/arca-spigot/
The T3 chassis all use an M6 x 12mm socket head screw of the same type so a 5mm hex wrench should do it. We sell extra long ones: https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/hex-wrench-ext/
Merry Christmas guys,
Justin
Merry Christmas guys!
Ya, I saw those. I meant the Arcalock sawtooth pattern that Area419 makes on their Arca rails
Oh sorry, we're keeping an eye on that stuff. Right now things are changing so rapidly that all Arca stuff might be old news by Summer. They have an interesting concept for sure.
Justin
Thanks for the reply! Ya, I was leaning towards that pattern since it can also use regular ARCA clamps.
Well, I already broke down and have a KRG ARCA spigot being delivered tomorrow from you guys! For right now, my plain Jane Harris BRM-S on a sling swivel stud will have to reside on it
I’m putting together a fun little 16.5” Rem 700 .308 and I’m about to finalize my decision for ordering a Bravo and enclosed forend but had the following questions someone in here may be able to help me with:
1. What is the total weight of the Bravo with the enclosed forend installed?
2. I’m pretty sure I’m going with black but would love to see an FDE Bravo with the enclosed forend installed. I though that might be a neat contrast and somewhat unique. Perhaps someone could tag Justin for me and he could whip that together for a quick photo since I’ve yet to see it posted anywhere?
1. What is the total weight of the Bravo with the enclosed forend installed?
2. I’m pretty sure I’m going with black but would love to see an FDE Bravo with the enclosed forend installed. I though that might be a neat contrast and somewhat unique. Perhaps someone could tag Justin for me and he could whip that together for a quick photo since I’ve yet to see it posted anywhere?
FDE+BLACK is looking good.
Here is a MDT chassis with the same color combination, and it is sweet.
So go for it.
Here is a MDT chassis with the same color combination, and it is sweet.
So go for it
. FDE+BLACK is looking good.
Here is a MDT chassis with the same color combination, and it is sweet.
So go for it
That looks pretty good. I’d still love to see the Bravo though in this configuration before spending the money. I’m leaning that direction but I’d hate to not see it first.
Warhorse Development posted one on their Instagram.
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You’re the man, Bandit31!
