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KRG Bravo Chassis

tikkakrg.jpg


Posted the pic in the Tikka thread but have a question about the bravo chassis so i figured I would ask that in this thread.

The cheek riser, when positioned for my correct scope/eye positioning, contacts the bold shroud. I can put it down a couple milimeters which solves the bolt contact issue but isn't exactly where i want it. I am being ultra picky here and it really isn't that bad - just wondering if anyone has taken a dremel to that portion of the cheek riser (it is where the cut out is on the front of the cheek riser but the shelf that remains is actually what the bolt shroud contacts)?

I can take some better pics if the description isn't enough.
 
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checkmate101 said:
View attachment 7382056

Posted the pic in the Tikka thread but have a question about the bravo chassis so i figured I would ask that in this thread.

The cheek riser, when positioned for my correct scope/eye positioning, contacts the bold shroud. I can put it down a couple milimeters which solves the bolt contact issue but isn't exactly where i want it. I am being ultra picky here and it really isn't that bad - just wondering if anyone has taken a dremel to that portion of the cheek riser (it is where the cut out is on the front of the cheek riser but the shelf that remains is actually what the bolt shroud contacts)?

I can take some better pics if the description isn't enough.
Click to expand...

I’m pretty sure @ThreeBravo had to do the same thing on his Howa KRG Bravo set up.
 
Matt_KJ said:
I’m pretty sure @ThreeBravo had to do the same thing on his Howa KRG Bravo set up.
Click to expand...
15955597238211233373620314940379.jpg
I had the same issue where the bolt made contact with the cheek riser if it was too high in my bravo with a howa 1500 action. The pic above is the end result after taking an orbital sander to it then a little hand sanding to smooth it out. Definitely worth it as I now have zero contact when I run the bolt.
 
ThreeBravo said:
View attachment 7382078
I had the same issue where the bolt made contact with the cheek riser if it was too high in my bravo with a howa 1500 action. The pic above is the end result after taking an orbital sander to it then a little hand sanding to smooth it out. Definitely worth it as I now have zero contact when I run the bolt.
Click to expand...

That is probably a better solution. I was thinking about just dremeling a recess in the portion that is already notched out for the bolt to ride above. Just having put it together i haven't had much time to really think about how I might want it to come out. May just play with things a bit more before removing any material.

another thought I had was just adding a piece of foam or weibad cheek cover to it which may resolve all the problems without removing anything from the cheek riser at all.

Thanks for the responses
 
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checkmate101 said:
View attachment 7382056

Posted the pic in the Tikka thread but have a question about the bravo chassis so i figured I would ask that in this thread.

The cheek riser, when positioned for my correct scope/eye positioning, contacts the bold shroud. I can put it down a couple milimeters which solves the bolt contact issue but isn't exactly where i want it. I am being ultra picky here and it really isn't that bad - just wondering if anyone has taken a dremel to that portion of the cheek riser (it is where the cut out is on the front of the cheek riser but the shelf that remains is actually what the bolt shroud contacts)?

I can take some better pics if the description isn't enough.
Click to expand...

rubber washer on the stems, tape on the stems, or whiteness mark. That way you just pull it up and off.
 
checkmate101 said:
View attachment 7382056

Posted the pic in the Tikka thread but have a question about the bravo chassis so i figured I would ask that in this thread.

The cheek riser, when positioned for my correct scope/eye positioning, contacts the bold shroud. I can put it down a couple milimeters which solves the bolt contact issue but isn't exactly where i want it. I am being ultra picky here and it really isn't that bad - just wondering if anyone has taken a dremel to that portion of the cheek riser (it is where the cut out is on the front of the cheek riser but the shelf that remains is actually what the bolt shroud contacts)?

I can take some better pics if the description isn't enough.
Click to expand...
Don't know when you bought your Bravo, but more recent examples should include a spare cheekpiece that mitigates the issue.

ifeRbWB.jpg

From left to right is my home-file-job on the original piece, the 2018-era "long action/Tikka" piece from KRG, and the rightmost one is the Tikka mitigation piece they send currently.
 
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AZgeek said:
You have to remove the butt plate and dick around holding the the two threaded clips in place while you align and thread in the supplied screws in to place. Your fingers will be of little help in that small channel.
Click to expand...
A pair of long tweezers came in real handy for holding the flat backer nuts in place when I attached my rail to the buttstock. After I figured it out it was a piece of cake.
 
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Those of you with Tikka's... I'm about to buy a CTR in 6.5, and wanna know if you guys prefer the Bravo with the AICS or CTR mag pattern?
 
I went CTR for my T3 tactical in .223 — your buying a ctr, stands to reason your gonna have a CTR mag or 2 — why not get the one that fits now
 
Hennig said:
Tossing up whether I like the enclosed forend on the Bravo or not - some times I look at it when I like it, other times I think it looks a bit odd.

Click to expand...

Really depends on whether your scope with attachments is short enough, whether it will accomodate your barrel contour, whether you intend to add a T-slot weight to the forend, or not, and whether you intend to shoot where it gets extremely hot, or cold, or in temperate climate. For me my scope length exceeded the space to the incorporated pic rail at its front end, I also intended to utilize a T-slot weight, and where I live can get both extremely hot in the summer, and extremely cold in the winter, so an aluminum forend, or complete aluminum chassis was not my first choice and I stuck with the regular Bravo forend , added the spigot mount with L2 MOE pic rail for the bipod, NVMC, T-slot weight, QD plate, and an ARCA rail, and heavy barricade stop on an ARCA clamp instead. Personal choice! For me going without the enclosed forend offered more options. It also saved me from having to have it cerakoted to blend in with the rest of my Bravo.
 
You guys that are using the t slot weight, can you still use mlok attachments on the bottom of the forend? Like an Arca rail?
 
Personally the enclosed aluminum enclosed forend was perfect for me. The plastic forend that the Bravo comes with is too flexible and not reliable. I think it needs to be redesigned with a better material or adding material to stiffen it up.
 
RFutch said:
You guys that are using the t slot weight, can you still use mlok attachments on the bottom of the forend? Like an Arca rail?
Click to expand...
I'm using the KRG T-slot weight and the ARCA rail on mine as I described in my previous post.
 
seanh said:
Personally the enclosed aluminum enclosed forend was perfect for me. The plastic forend that the Bravo comes with is too flexible and not reliable. I think it needs to be redesigned with a better material or adding material to stiffen it up.
Click to expand...
No flex on my regular Bravo, with the aluminum backbone, the T-slot weight, and the ARCA rail, and spigot mount even He-Man the Librarian would not be able to get flex out of that forend. Just the aluminum and steel of the ARCA rail, T-slot weight, and spigot mount without the aluminum backbone adds up to 19.8 oz., the enclosed forend is only 17.6 oz. , in my opinion it would flex more. In any case please no material re-design the Bravo is perfect for my purposes.
 
If you have flex in yours maybe you need something different, as I said my set up has no flex, period. For my purposes the enclosed forend's incorporated front pic rail was a hindrance to my scope and attachments, and it did not allow for the added weight to achieve the balance I desired, the regular forend did not have these problems. Glad you like your set up for your purposes though. I don't need to take anything off I deem necessary, my gun, not yours, savvy?
 
I recently purchased a bravo for my tikka and am consider getting the spigot for it. For those that have the KRG minimalist spigot, could you post up a picture of how I think mounts/interfaces with the stock?

TIA

Bikejunky
 
I apologize for not digging through 28 pages for this, but I am only getting about 1 rotation on my front action screw. This seems really shallow for me, so I need to get a longer screw?
 
Flightmurse said:
I apologize for not digging through 28 pages for this, but I am only getting about 1 rotation on my front action screw. This seems really shallow for me, so I need to get a longer screw?
Click to expand...

And it's right after 1 turn? That's not right. I would give KRG a call, they helped me out when my action screws weren't working right. I couldn't get my front screw tight even though it was bottomed out, but I'm pretty sure I had some bedding compound in the hole left over from the pillars I did in the last stock.
 
I just picked up a Bravo for Rem 700 SA from the PX here. Excited to build it up! I need to pick an action next. So many options..
 
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Hennig said:


Sorry for spamming up this thread with painted Bravos, but I just did another one that came out pretty mint.
Click to expand...

This is your best one yet! Not that the others weren't great as well, but this one is perfection.
 
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My Krg Bravo in the wild...

This may have come up in another thread but does anyone have a solution for running 3 rnd mags with the tikka aics chassis?

Ideally I am after a factory option so I don't have to modify my steel AI mags.

Looks like Ruger make one in the aics pattern but has anyone tested if they seat / feed properly?

IMG_20210105_193142.jpg
 
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Thanks that's good news, I don't mind doing a bit of modification to the feed lips.

I was worried the floor plate might hit the bottom of the mag well and stop it from seating properly.

A three rnd polymer mag will be much nicer to carry in the mountains especially if it sits close to flush with the bottom of the mag well.
 
my experience a couple months ago was a tikka t3x in a bravo would not strip the last round from metal Ruger mags. The mags didn’t seem to seat high enough.

Worked fine with AI and MDT.

I hope your experience is better.

Bikejunky

SPEARONZ said:
My Krg Bravo in the wild...

This may have come up in another thread but does anyone have a solution for running 3 rnd mags with the tikka aics chassis?

Ideally I am after a factory option so I don't have to modify my steel AI mags.

Looks like Ruger make one in the aics pattern but has anyone tested if they seat / feed properly?

View attachment 7522618
Click to expand...
 
I currently use the 5rnd AI mags and do rate them highly. For hunting I often carry my rifle under the mag well (that's just how this set up balances nicley) and I would prefer a mag that sits more flush. It's a little thing but after hours of climbing and sweating these things start to nag me.
 
SPEARONZ said:
My Krg Bravo in the wild...

This may have come up in another thread but does anyone have a solution for running 3 rnd mags with the tikka aics chassis?

Ideally I am after a factory option so I don't have to modify my steel AI mags.

Looks like Ruger make one in the aics pattern but has anyone tested if they seat / feed properly?

View attachment 7522618
Click to expand...

I know that @LongRifles Inc. is/was working on flush-fit mags but I’m not sure where that project landed.
 
Hawkins precision has released 3 rd flush fit mags. Not cheap but they r very nice and work great with their bottom aics compatible BM. Not sure about fitment on other but im sure it can be made to work
 
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