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LabRadar question

Thats a lot of accessories, upgrades, little tweaks, and other work arounds to get the Labradar to function. I used a buddy’s several times and it was about as cooperative as a neurotic ex-wife. At its best it was kind of sketchy. And flimsy IMO. This is why I went with a MagntoSpeed. Just a proper mount for it coming off an Arca rail and so easy and consistent. The ding on it is that the factory configuration mounts directly on the barrel but it’s easily solve with no more than an aftermarket mount rather than the laundry list of fixes, add-ons, and upgrades most need to get the LR to function dependably.
 
it was about as cooperative as a neurotic ex-wife.
And mine is as stable and solid as Mt Rushmore and I don't have to hang a bunch of stuff off of my rifle.

To each their own.

Thats a lot of accessories, upgrades, little tweaks, and other work arounds to get the Labradar to function.
So Herb....exactly what do you think your MS mounting kit is? haha

I added an improved sight (but a bit of plastic straw will work as does the OG aiming notch that comes with the unit) and when I got a suppressor out of jail I then added a recoil trigger. That's pretty much it.
 
And mine is as stable and solid as Mt Rushmore and I don't have to hang a bunch of stuff off of my rifle.

To each their own.


So Herb....exactly what do you think your MS mounting kit is? haha

I added an improved sight (but a bit of plastic straw will work as does the OG aiming notch that comes with the unit) and when I got a suppressor out of jail I then added a recoil trigger. That's pretty much it.
I agree - to each his own.

The mount is a single additional item as opposed to several add-ones that some use. Less hassle to me and it works every time.

Glad yours works for you without needing a lot of extras.
 
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Herb,

Both the LR and MS have advantages and disadvantages and like cars, we tinker with them to make them work better.

I started chronographing using the old Chrony but was always frustrated at how it was often flakey - especially on cloudy days. Figured out, if you use them at night with an LED light strip they work perfectly. Did all my chronographing at night after that.
Chrony - Copy.jpg


The tape on the posts are a guide for where the bullet needs to be aimed. The yellow builders bubble to make sure it was level, and the rare-earth magnet on the left to help keep it closed when not in use. All bits and bobs to help it work.

Check out the plastic colour of the skyshades - that's how old it is.

What annoys me about the Labradar is it's sensitivity to any structure downrange. This is a range I sometimes use, but it won't reliably track bullets. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. It's 100M with a hanger starting 50 metres downrange with a bullet trap at the end. Some guys have resorted to using the old Chrony. I'm open to any ideas that might get the radar to work.
765 - Copy.jpg
 
Herb,

Both the LR and MS have advantages and disadvantages and like cars, we tinker with them to make them work better.

I started chronographing using the old Chrony but was always frustrated at how it was often flakey - especially on cloudy days. Figured out, if you use them at night with an LED light strip they work perfectly. Did all my chronographing at night after that.
View attachment 8137553

The tape on the posts are a guide for where the bullet needs to be aimed. The yellow builders bubble to make sure it was level, and the rare-earth magnet on the left to help keep it closed when not in use. All bits and bobs to help it work.

Check out the plastic colour of the skyshades - that's how old it is.

What annoys me about the Labradar is it's sensitivity to any structure downrange. This is a range I sometimes use, but it won't reliably track bullets. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. It's 100M with a hanger starting 50 metres downrange with a bullet trap at the end. Some guys have resorted to using the old Chrony. I'm open to any ideas that might get the radar to work.
View attachment 8137555
Tried lowering the output power?
 
Yes (have the model with both high and low power)

I've been thinking about the vertical eliptical bias in the emitter. I might try a manfrotto tripod and have the radar at right angles above the scope/barrel. So the beam is wider than it is vertical.
 
Yes (have the model with both high and low power)

I've been thinking about the vertical eliptical bias in the emitter. I might try a manfrotto tripod and have the radar at right angles above the scope/barrel. So the beam is wider than it is vertical.
There was a post or video by F-class John a while back about a troublesome baffled range he was on, he did something with a wider offset/aiming angle and a recoil trigger. Will see if I can find it.

ETA:
About 7 minutes in he explains how he aims it on a difficult range.
 
Last edited:
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F Class John's technique is to angle the radar towards the line of fire, not at the target. But surely this then confounds the estimation of muzzle velocity? As we know, all radar muzzle velocities are estimations, based on the radar calculating how far downrange the the bullet enters the arc, how fast it is traveling then, and how far beside the barrel the radar is.
 
F Class John's technique is to angle the radar towards the line of fire, not at the target. But surely this then confounds the estimation of muzzle velocity? As we know, all radar muzzle velocities are estimations, based on the radar calculating how far downrange the the bullet enters the arc, how fast it is traveling then, and how far beside the barrel the radar is.
I don't have that style of range available to me so have not had need to test it out. As best I can tell his method is trying to reduce reflected signal noise. Seeing one of his Track.csv files would give a good idea of what's going on.

Your idea of trying to place the unit at a right angle to change the beam width also has merit. I've shot under mine (quadpod and conduit) with no ill effect. I've also seen pics of others using them with odd orientations (even upside down). So where the bullet enters the beam in relation to the antenna edges doesn't seem to matter.

I don't think it is so much a matter of confounding the velocity measured, it's measuring time of flight from the reflections off the bullet. More getting the unit to "accept" that a reading is the tracked shot and not noise. On a "quiet" range my unit typically gives it's first reading at 6 yards for slower projectiles and 19 for faster. Their guide state 25 meters minimum target distance for best results, IMO that's a misnomer and is more the backstop distance if a non-reflective target is used (wood/paper).

As an example here's one with a target frame at 50 yards and I had tracking to 189 yards (on a 200 yard range) with .22 LR
Time (s)Vel (fps)Dist (yd)SNR
0​
1065.82​
0​
-
0.017021​
1056.07​
6​
37.65​
0.019021​
1055.53​
6.7​
37.01​
0.021021​
1054.39​
7.4​
36.1​
0.023021​
1053.84​
8.11​
34.77​
0.025021​
1052.23​
8.81​
34.82​
0.027021​
1052.52​
9.51​
34.02​
0.029021​
1049.98​
10.21​
34.18​
0.031021​
1048.89​
10.91​
33.93​
0.033021​
1047.69​
11.61​
33.98​
0.035021​
1046.54​
12.31​
32.21​
0.037021​
1047.67​
13​
30.19​
0.039021​
1043.85​
13.7​
32.03​
0.041021​
1047.86​
14.4​
27.65​
0.043021​
1042.9​
15.1​
31.04​
0.045021​
1043.04​
15.79​
26.55​
0.047021​
1039.62​
16.49​
30.5​
0.049021​
1040.8​
17.18​
28.52​
0.051021​
1039​
17.87​
27.63​
0.053021​
1040.23​
18.57​
22.72​
0.055021​
1035.42​
19.26​
31.58​
0.057021​
1033.99​
19.95​
29.3​
0.059021​
1035.59​
20.64​
20.43​
0.061021​
1030.67​
21.33​
27.41​
0.063021​
1033.48​
22.01​
22.82​
0.065021​
1031.07​
22.7​
29.26​
0.067021​
1030.94​
23.39​
29.73​
0.069021​
1031.09​
24.08​
23.36​
0.071021​
1023.8​
24.76​
9.35​
0.073021​
1028.32​
25.45​
18.78​
0.075021​
1025.94​
26.13​
22.93​
0.077021​
1026.67​
26.81​
23.56​
0.079021​
1026.48​
27.5​
23.57​
0.081021​
1023.48​
28.18​
22.25​
0.083021​
1026.35​
28.87​
23.62​
0.085021​
1022.36​
29.55​
22.12​
0.087021​
1022.4​
30.23​
21.03​
0.089021​
1024.61​
30.91​
17.55​
0.091021​
1024.43​
31.6​
13.25​
0.093021​
1013.62​
32.27​
13.41​
0.095021​
1019.81​
32.95​
14.93​
0.097021​
1015.23​
33.63​
17.84​
0.099021​
1014.96​
34.31​
18.81​
0.101021​
1015.71​
34.98​
20.39​
0.103021​
1015.91​
35.66​
17.71​
0.105021​
1016.17​
36.34​
18.17​
0.107021​
1010.03​
37.01​
17.54​
0.109021​
1011.31​
37.69​
17.69​
0.111021​
1013.15​
38.36​
18.1​
0.113021​
1010.48​
39.04​
18.54​
0.115021​
1010.19​
39.71​
20.11​
0.117021​
1007.81​
40.38​
19.5​
0.119021​
1006.07​
41.05​
12.95​
0.123021​
1006.72​
42.4​
16.08​
0.125021​
1007.47​
43.07​
16.71​
0.127021​
1003.14​
43.74​
18.13​
0.129021​
1003.57​
44.41​
18.85​
0.131021​
1005.27​
45.08​
16.84​
0.133021​
995.69​
45.74​
12.04​
0.137021​
1000.05​
47.07​
17.3​
0.139021​
996.91​
47.74​
18.17​
0.141021​
1000.25​
48.41​
19.98​
0.143021​
1000.42​
49.07​
20.25​
0.145021​
991​
49.74​
17.69​
0.147021​
997.01​
50.4​
14.67​
0.149021​
989.18​
51.06​
15.97​
0.151021​
990.68​
51.72​
17.68​
0.153021​
989.45​
52.38​
10.95​
0.155021​
991.61​
53.04​
16.24​
0.157021​
987.47​
53.7​
21.23​
0.159021​
989.78​
54.36​
20.14​
0.161021​
985.43​
55.02​
21.75​
0.163021​
985.51​
55.68​
21.02​
0.165021​
985.02​
56.33​
20.05​
0.167021​
983.85​
56.99​
17.5​
0.169021​
980.39​
57.64​
17.07​
0.171021​
982.27​
58.3​
14.48​
0.173021​
978.5​
58.95​
9.55​
0.181021​
985.97​
61.57​
11.43​
0.185021​
971.7​
62.88​
11.11​
0.187021​
978.87​
63.53​
9.62​
0.189021​
973.33​
64.18​
10.94​
0.191021​
975.95​
64.83​
12.81​
0.197021​
966.29​
66.77​
10.95​
0.199021​
966.31​
67.41​
11.42​
0.201021​
965.55​
68.06​
12.32​
0.203021​
972.12​
68.7​
12.75​
0.205021​
966.86​
69.35​
17.21​
0.207021​
969.5​
69.99​
17.1​
0.209021​
968.05​
70.64​
13.56​
0.211021​
967.22​
71.29​
13.83​
0.213021​
966.74​
71.93​
10.63​
0.215021​
963.39​
72.57​
7.09​
0.217021​
966.32​
73.22​
11.28​
0.219021​
956.74​
73.86​
9.42​
0.237021​
966.06​
79.63​
7.15​
0.245021​
951.59​
82.18​
7.64​
0.249021​
949.02​
83.45​
14.18​
0.251021​
950.81​
84.08​
14.22​
0.255021​
948.83​
85.35​
13.65​
0.257021​
950.06​
85.98​
13.48​
0.259021​
948.47​
86.62​
14.39​
0.261021​
951.14​
87.25​
15.93​
0.265021​
943.85​
88.51​
10.59​
0.267021​
941.72​
89.14​
12.72​
0.273021​
941.58​
91.02​
12.18​
0.275021​
942.05​
91.65​
10.39​
0.277021​
941.07​
92.28​
8.29​
0.281021​
937.74​
93.53​
10.46​
0.283021​
939.31​
94.16​
10.91​
0.285021​
935.14​
94.78​
14.57​
0.287021​
922.87​
95.4​
9.57​
0.291021​
931.54​
96.64​
9.34​
0.309021​
946.74​
102.27​
8.9​
0.313021​
948.85​
103.54​
7.69​
0.323021​
945.32​
106.69​
10.83​
0.327021​
954.84​
107.96​
9.79​
0.337021​
948.1​
111.13​
7.8​
0.343021​
938.11​
113.02​
9.03​
0.345021​
932.07​
113.64​
9.87​
0.347021​
917.42​
114.26​
10.28​
0.349021​
915.73​
114.87​
10.4​
0.355021​
916.87​
116.7​
14.14​
0.359021​
916.57​
117.92​
10.9​
0.363021​
909.54​
119.14​
9.25​
0.365021​
921.07​
119.75​
11.15​
0.371021​
911.19​
121.58​
10.31​
0.375021​
900.15​
122.79​
7.83​
0.377021​
911.17​
123.4​
11.94​
0.383021​
909.26​
125.22​
13.48​
0.385021​
899.6​
125.82​
9.91​
0.389021​
904.63​
127.02​
11.74​
0.391021​
901.09​
127.62​
8.83​
0.401021​
911.19​
130.64​
7.47​
0.427021​
900.59​
138.49​
8.98​
0.443021​
902.95​
143.3​
9.78​
0.445021​
890.28​
143.9​
9.89​
0.449021​
879.67​
145.08​
9.15​
0.455021​
870.82​
146.83​
7.4​
0.467021​
868.53​
150.31​
12.05​
0.475021​
881.38​
152.64​
10.21​
0.477021​
895.94​
153.24​
10.09​
0.501021​
898.28​
160.41​
11.09​
0.503021​
904.79​
161.01​
9.13​
0.511021​
914.35​
163.44​
8.97​
0.513021​
899.97​
164.05​
14.23​
0.527021​
899.97​
168.24​
12.93​
0.531021​
899.03​
169.44​
10.35​
0.539021​
886.77​
171.83​
7.21​
0.551021​
899.22​
175.4​
8.58​
0.553021​
890.44​
175.99​
9.19​
0.555021​
899.35​
176.59​
11.04​
0.559021​
896.75​
177.79​
7.47​
0.563021​
900.57​
178.99​
10.09​
0.567021​
898.27​
180.19​
13.42​
0.573021​
912.65​
182​
8.91​
0.575021​
902.79​
182.6​
9.45​
0.579021​
894.42​
183.8​
11.21​
0.593021​
882.61​
187.95​
10.07​
0.597021​
875.5​
189.12​
7.51​


This far exceeds what they claim it can read a .22 at, but it's a good range and the conditions that day were exceptional.
 
lots of great advice throughout this thread

I have been using my LabRadar for about 4 years and love it.

I dont use an external aiming device and dont have any problem getting it setup easily, quickly and reliably.

I strongly recommend an external battery.... just like about everyone else.

My recommendation regarding mount is to make sure that what ever you use, it needs to be sturdy and firmly connected. My 6.5 creedmore has a muzzle device that will push the LabRadar out of alignment after a couple of shots. Someday i will get rid of the tripod and get something more reliable and less susceptable to being pushed around by the muzzle blast.

I have used my LabRadar with my BMG as well. The only way to make this work was to place a small wall between the LabRadar and the BMG made out of cinder blocks stacked 2-high and 2-long and placed at a 45degree angle to the muzzle of the gun. That worked well and was reliable.
 
I got the Arca mount from Grey Ops. Way better than the factory one and I can run it on my tall tripod now also if I want. I did have to change over the mount on the Labradar Tripod but NBD.
You need the external battery, The Labradar should just have that built in.
I've never had an issue with aiming it but next time I order from MK Machine I will get the sight just for convenience sake
 
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lots of great advice throughout this thread

I have been using my LabRadar for about 4 years and love it.

I dont use an external aiming device and dont have any problem getting it setup easily, quickly and reliably.

I strongly recommend an external battery.... just like about everyone else.

My recommendation regarding mount is to make sure that what ever you use, it needs to be sturdy and firmly connected. My 6.5 creedmore has a muzzle device that will push the LabRadar out of alignment after a couple of shots. Someday i will get rid of the tripod and get something more reliable and less susceptable to being pushed around by the muzzle blast.

I have used my LabRadar with my BMG as well. The only way to make this work was to place a small wall between the LabRadar and the BMG made out of cinder blocks stacked 2-high and 2-long and placed at a 45degree angle to the muzzle of the gun. That worked well and was reliable.
You should try the external trigger which allows you to get the unit out of the blast. It might make things easier for you and the Radar
 
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Gunny,

For aiming I use a pen. No need to crouch down and look though a straw. A pen sits neatly in the groove and it's pretty clear where it's pointing.
aiming - Copy.jpg


For a sturdy stand when shooting off a rest I use a piece of hardwood with rubber feet glued at each corner. It gets the radar down low so it's level with the muzzle. More of the stand is to the front is so you can push the buttons without it tilting forward. I leave it permanently attached in the carry box to save time setting up. Labradar's screw to hold the plank is the standard, 1/4"x20.

It doesn't shift on the bench when I shoot 6.5 and if it did I'd probably weigh it down with some lead sheet. Thinking you could probably do the same with your tripod; wrap some roofing lead around the legs.

Stand - Copy.jpg
 
Last edited:
Not cheap but the Arkco base is the best that I’ve used. Super convenient that it folds up and fits in a computer bag.

 
Not cheap but the Arkco base is the best that I’ve used. Super convenient that it folds up and fits in a computer bag.

Yep, I too run the Atco and it’s never been blasted over and as you said, it folds up fairly small
 
Wait until you try an Andiscan...... You'll know why it obsolete and replaces the LR.
 
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I found that baffling or structural steel in the path of the LABRADAR will impair function. People, including me, have tried all sorts of ideas, but the unit really needs a clear path to function properly. When I took it to a range that had wooden structure over the shooting tables, it worked fine. The company really should include this information as part of their instructions and disclaimers.
 
I was zeroing a Eotech XPS3-0 @ 50 meters mounted on a PWS Mk109 .300 BO. The LR has tracking data at 75 & 100 meters. Could the doppler really be obtaining data 25 & 50 meters beyond the hole in the target ?
IMG_7088PWS Mk109 .300 BLKO Eotech Zero 50 Meters Cracker Swamp 05.08.23  copy.jpg
IMG_7089PWS Mk109 .300 BLKO Eotech Zero 50 Meters Cracker Swamp 05.08.23  copy.jpg
Screen Shot 2023-05-10 at 7.42.29 AM.png
 
The #6 shot in the Series is the first to track 75 & 100 Meters. I still think its improbable that the device can track the projectile thru a 0.30" hole for an additional 50 meters while the projectile is continuing to drop below the axis of the hole in the target!
1683757417568.png
 
The #6 shot in the Series is the first to track 75 & 100 Meters. I still think its improbable that the device can track the projectile thru a 0.30" hole for an additional 50 meters while the projectile is continuing to drop below the axis of the hole in the target!View attachment 8138746
Isn't through the hole, is through your target if it isn't radar reflective.
 
I find if you set your longest radar distance slightly less than the target it is way more effective than setting it at the same distance as the target. So if the target is 100, set it at 90 - the target then is not structure interference.
 
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Shooting with structure.
Tried shooting groups with a hanger 50M downrange. Half the shots were from a bench, and half prone. Radar picked up all shots from the bench, but only half shots when prone. Prone was directly in front of the bench.
 
Last edited:
So I ended up getting one and the suggested accessories. Messed with it shooting around the house to get a feel for it then went to the range today. Worked great. The only problem I had was with a .22 Creedmoor with a Little Bastard muzzle brake (all the other guns I shot have brakes also). I couldn't get it to pick up using the Piet trigger. This gun is fairly heavy and has almost zero recoil. I went without the trigger and was able to get about every third shot. This muzzle brake has substantially more blow back on the shooter than any other I have so I don't know if that was affecting it. Any suggestions to improve getting the shots?
 
Hnt,

I might be able to help.

I don't know the internals of a Piet but from the sounds of other users and expecting the guy to be using the simplest, cheapest design it probably uses a SW180XX vibration switch glued inside the larger square casing. These things cost $1 each and are reliable, so unlikely he is using a more expensive system like an accelerometer circuit. SW18 switches are enclosed coils around a fixed post. You knock the switch and the coil wobbles, momentarily closing the circuit when it touches the post. Here's a cutaway photo.
2384-03[1].jpg


Knowing this, you can imagine it is more sensitive when at right angles to the movement, and less sensitive when it is in line with the movement. Consider how your gun recoils; it is heavy so not jumpy, but still moves back along the barrel axis against the shoulder. To be most sensitive to this movement the switch's wobbly coil needs to be at right angles to the line of recoil. Here's a picture of a vibration switch at right angles to the barrel on a little .22LR, which has almost no recoil. The switch is held hard against the gun with an elastic band, and at right angles to the recoil making it most sensitive.
recoil - Copy.jpg


If the Piet is held against the gun with Velcro then maybe adding a tight elastic band will hold it firmer so the recoil is not dampened by the Velcro. If there is no vertical jump with your heavy gun then it does not matter if it's forward nearer the muzzle, or back on the scope or action - but in your case the attitude of the switch important for it to function at its most sensitive.

With the Piet in a rectangular plastic case if you cannot open it to see how the switch is oriented, you could play around with it and figure it out that way. Shake and flick it with your finger at home while watching the orange light going off and on registering shots. Figure out which attitude of the switch is the most sensitive to movement. Then fix it to your gun along the line of recoil that way.

Don't forget, a .22 bullet with boat tail is about the least reflective surface area for the radar to track down range. But you should get a muzzle velocity and velocities at least out to 30 yards.
 
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Thats great info. and very likely the problem. I'll fool with the trigger and attach it differently. The bullet FPS is 3500 which is substantially faster than the others I was shooting so I was also wondering if that affects it at all? Probably not but curious.
 
Thats great info. and very likely the problem. I'll fool with the trigger and attach it differently. The bullet FPS is 3500 which is substantially faster than the others I was shooting so I was also wondering if that affects it at all? Probably not but curious.
Labradar should be good to 4k fps with lil 204s etc
 
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Hnt,

I agree with Spife, 3500 is well within the radar's specs. Velocity is not the reason for not registering a shot.
 
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Has anyone tried the Labradar with NiMH rechargeable AA's instead of the Li-Ion battery pack or Alkalines?
Also is Greg Piet still selling the recoil triggers? I noticed he's not active on this site anymore and not on his social media pages either.
 
Has anyone tried the Labradar with NiMH rechargeable AA's instead of the Li-Ion battery pack or Alkalines?
Also is Greg Piet still selling the recoil triggers? I noticed he's not active on this site anymore and not on his social media pages either.

A friend uses Eneloop rechargeable AA's in his, while better than alkaline they still don't compare to what a Li-ion battery pack can do.
 
I don't get it. Li+ion pak is $25. ~ a dozen bullets. I keep mine on for several hours per range trip and the
digital meter goes from 99% to like 90% charged.
A.jpg
 
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I don't get it. Li+ion pak is $25. ~ a dozen bullets. I keep mine on for several hours per range trip and the
digital meter goes from 99% to like 90% charged.
it's to bad the unit itself doesn't have a rechargeable Li-ion battery built in but as stated the external pack lasts for ever. I've been running mine for about a year and it's at 70%
 
Thats great info. and very likely the problem. I'll fool with the trigger and attach it differently. The bullet FPS is 3500 which is substantially faster than the others I was shooting so I was also wondering if that affects it at all? Probably not but curious.
I hot-glued a disc magnet (stolen from a refrigerator/potato chip bag clip) to the back of mine. It snaps quickly and firmly to anything steel. Can be an issue with an all-aluminum AR, etc, but works great on everything else. On the ARs I usually just lightly wedge it between the scope and the rail, and check it periodically to make sure it hasn't moved.
 
How does blast from muzzle brakes effect the Labradar? Is it just that it moves or knocks it over or does it effect the reading?
 
t's to bad the unit itself doesn't have a rechargeable Li-ion battery built in
I accept that as an advantage......IF the unit sealed battery were to fail it would likely require a return trip to the mfg. for repair / exchange. External battery lost / failed......next up, keep going. Also can use it to recharge Ipads / phones etc. out in the field.
 
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How does blast from muzzle brakes effect the Labradar? Is it just that it moves or knocks it over or does it effect the reading?
The blast obscures the unit’s ability to get the reflection back from the bullet. Small bullets are more affected. You could try the unit either in front of the brake, or above it (assuming a timed brake with the ports aimed to each side only).
 
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The blast obscures the unit’s ability to get the reflection back from the bullet. Small bullets are more affected. You could try the unit either in front of the brake, or above it (assuming a timed brake with the ports aimed to each side only).
I've never had an issue running a brake. Sometimes it would move the unit on the base plate until I got the Grey ops arca adapter.
 
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metroplex,
Panasonic Eneloop AA NiMH batteries are 2Ah and give 1.2V each. The radar's compartment is configured 3S2P (I have opened it up), so six Eneloops give 4Ah and 3.6V. You can get Eneloop Pro's which have a slightly higher capacity, 2.5Ah each but they are all only 1.2V. At 3.6V total the current draw by the radar could be higher to compensate, meaning their drain will be quicker than an external battery, or it could be that the radar is not as powerful at the lower voltage. 6xAA Eneloop's are about $20 with charger. NiMH is old technology and long since replaced by Lithium which is more energy dense.

Labradar's external lithium battery is 10Ah and provides 5V. Their $25 battery is more than double the grunt of using Eneloops.

Everyone has the radar emitting for different times so it's difficult to compare. But external packs have so much power that you may as well set the auto sleep timers to the longest and enjoy. And much cheaper than using the internal compartment.

I use an external Li-ion pack made out of 6 Samsung laptop batteries configured in 2S3P, giving 9Ah and 8.1V. It is regulated down to 5V (the yellow thing in the photo) so it doesn't cook the radar. And yes, like others with external packs I don't have to recharge it for several sessions. External packs are definitely the way to go.

Samsung18650 - Copy.jpg
pack - Copy.jpg
 
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I've never had an issue running a brake. Sometimes it would move the unit on the base plate until I got the Grey ops arca adapter.
I haven’t either, but I haven’t tried it on a braked 22CM. According to the folks at LR, a big muzzle blast with a small bullet can cause his issue though.
 
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When using the JKL trigger does the labradar still need to be sighted at the target or can it just point in the direction of the target?
 
So Ive been using my Labradar for god knows how many years with this super sturdy, adjustable height, ball head mini tripod... Worked great, never fell or blew over.. Got it right after getting my Labradar and their base/plate which is junk. This mini tripod allows you to set it up at multiple different heights via the locking legs.

Well, for those of you that have this tripod, it has 2 sets of threads sticking out the top, a small section of 1/4" threads then a longer section of the bigger more stable 3/8" threads..

Well for all these years Ive screwed the labradar on and off that top, thinner 1/4" section of threads because thats the thread size in the bottom of the labradar... Worked fine for all this time.

Well guess what, the 1/4" threads broke off the tripod ball head right where it transitions to 3/8" threads... Ok, no big deal. I ordered this Sunwayfoto Arca Swiss Clamp and Quick Release Plate from Amazon. I liked it because it uses the thicker 3/8" threads on my tripod and has a built in ARCA clamp, comes with a metal arca plate and screw that utilizes the 1/4" threads and has a pan left and right head built in via a QD medal knob.. Pretty damn sweet.

It came yesterday. I used blue loctite and installed the QD arca clamp base to the 3/8" threads on the top of my ball head mini tripod. I then used blue loctite and installed the ARCA plate adapter to the bottom of my Labradar and let it dry overnight.

Took it to the range today and damn why didnt I do this sooner. QD knob to install and remove the Labradar onto and off the tripod via ARCA.. After clamping the Labradar onto the tripod. another knob to utlize the ball head to aim the angle of the labradar.. And a 3rd QD knob to aim the Labradar left or right. Feels even more solid now to with the QD ARCA clamp base attached to the ball head via the 3/8 threads and the labradar connected to the tripod with an ARCA base adapter instead of a thin little 1/4 thread stub....

Here the tripod Ive been using forever and here is the ARCA clamp QD adapter I just bought and installed yesterday.













 
Padom is that tube for barrel cooling? What blower you using? SOA2
 
Padom is that tube for barrel cooling? What blower you using? SOA2

Haha, why yes it is! lol.. It was actually cooling my 22BR after shooting today. I use it pretty much every range session. I made this during COVID.. So about 3 years ago... Its not made anymore but looking at the specs from when I did buy it... Its a 5000mAh and 4000Pa air pressure and 450L/min wind speed.

I sourced the clear tubing from HomeDepot to match my bolt diameter for a nice slide in and out fit of my TL3's. Slides right up to the chamber and saying it moves a LOT of air is an understatement. Its really small too.. 4"x2.3". Lasts about 2 range sessions. I forget to charge it so I carry a large 25000mAh battery pack that I hook up to it when it dies like you see in the above photo..

I used Chamber Chillers and the Magnetospeed cooler, etc. and they arent even in the same league as this thing. Cools my hot barrel pretty quickly.
 
 
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