Can someone explain how these work, I read the instructions at there site, I noticed Sinclairs recommends there base for 11 bucks, but nobody else has one, also how does the case come out of the die, there doesn't appear to be a recess to grap the rim.
LE Wilson Neck Die
- Thread starter 427Cobra
- Start date
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
Not my video but it shows you what you want to know!
Picture is worth a shit load of typing!
Starts at 1:25 into the video!
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Terry
Not my video but it shows you what you want to know!
Picture is worth a shit load of typing!
Starts at 1:25 into the video!
<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/vzsZsn-DurY"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/vzsZsn-DurY" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>
Terry
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
What about using it with a Arbor press, the decapping stem would be in the way, if I read the instructions correctly the stem is retained by two allen screws on the side, and the bushing is held in place by the cap with two allen screws
What about using it with a Arbor press, the decapping stem would be in the way, if I read the instructions correctly the stem is retained by two allen screws on the side, and the bushing is held in place by the cap with two allen screws
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
427,
The decapping stem is held in place with two nylon inserts. The allen screws push them up against it. All you do is tighten them up and then back them off to maintain hold, so it won't fall out. But slips enough to slide back and forth.
What I do is take the cap you saw with the seater, turn it up-side down and press the case into the neck sizer. The cap has a hole in the center and the sizing die goes into that. Then with my arbor base in place I press the case into the die. I then flip it and pop out the primer. I flip again and tap on the base of the press with the decapping pin to push the case out of the die.
edit:
I can post pics tomorrow.
427,
The decapping stem is held in place with two nylon inserts. The allen screws push them up against it. All you do is tighten them up and then back them off to maintain hold, so it won't fall out. But slips enough to slide back and forth.
What I do is take the cap you saw with the seater, turn it up-side down and press the case into the neck sizer. The cap has a hole in the center and the sizing die goes into that. Then with my arbor base in place I press the case into the die. I then flip it and pop out the primer. I flip again and tap on the base of the press with the decapping pin to push the case out of the die.
edit:
I can post pics tomorrow.
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
It does seem somewhat silly to sit there pounding on the neck die w/ a mallet when he has a perfectly good arbor press a foot away...
It does seem somewhat silly to sit there pounding on the neck die w/ a mallet when he has a perfectly good arbor press a foot away...
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
Tell that to a 3-year-old with a <span style="font-style: italic">Pound-A-Peg</span>.
Tell that to a 3-year-old with a <span style="font-style: italic">Pound-A-Peg</span>.
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
Never seen anyone use a arbor press for this operation (not saying you shouldn't)? I have always used the rubber mallet method. As for bullet seating, my neck tension is so little that I can press the plunger on the seater die by hand.
The only time I saw a guy using a arbor press with Wilson dies was when his Neck tension was too high to push it in by hand. IMHO then you are defeating the purpose of using the neck die.
Even then he could have tapped it in with the rubber mallet.
Sandwarrior:
Looking forward to seeing your Pict's on how you do it. Learn something new maybe!
Terry
Never seen anyone use a arbor press for this operation (not saying you shouldn't)? I have always used the rubber mallet method. As for bullet seating, my neck tension is so little that I can press the plunger on the seater die by hand.
The only time I saw a guy using a arbor press with Wilson dies was when his Neck tension was too high to push it in by hand. IMHO then you are defeating the purpose of using the neck die.
Even then he could have tapped it in with the rubber mallet.
Sandwarrior:
Looking forward to seeing your Pict's on how you do it. Learn something new maybe!
Terry
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
pics, of the neck sizing here.
first is the empty die ready to have a case inserted, Note the hole on the side of the die at the top. That is one of two points where allen screws push in on nylon inserts to keep the stem from falling out of the die.
here is the case inserted as deep as it goes
top of die with decapping stem over baseplate hole.
base plate going the direction I use it for this stage on my arbor base plate.
upside down die with stem about to be set in the base plate
Arbor about to press case into neck sizer
pics, of the neck sizing here.
first is the empty die ready to have a case inserted, Note the hole on the side of the die at the top. That is one of two points where allen screws push in on nylon inserts to keep the stem from falling out of the die.
here is the case inserted as deep as it goes
top of die with decapping stem over baseplate hole.
base plate going the direction I use it for this stage on my arbor base plate.
upside down die with stem about to be set in the base plate
Arbor about to press case into neck sizer
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
After the case is pressed or rubber hammered in then I flip the die and press out the primer. Notice how the die is centered over the base plate.
I chose to use the arbor instead of the hammer. As one of you guys noted up above it defeats the purpose of using this if you are squeezing down too much. I don't think so. I think the guy in the video is fine as he isn't squeezing down .002" like I am. That is a lot of neck hold for a bench type gun I know. But it doesn't defeat the purpose as I'm keeping the case body true the whole time. If I were to use the mallet, as I have in the past, I would be defeating the purpose as there is too much possibility of causing distortion in the brass. Either way, as long as you keep the brass in there true.
heres the die with the brass all the way in and the decapping pin having just punched out the primer.
Tapping it out with the stem. I showed this at an angle, but I do it straight up and down.
the finished neck
After the case is pressed or rubber hammered in then I flip the die and press out the primer. Notice how the die is centered over the base plate.
I chose to use the arbor instead of the hammer. As one of you guys noted up above it defeats the purpose of using this if you are squeezing down too much. I don't think so. I think the guy in the video is fine as he isn't squeezing down .002" like I am. That is a lot of neck hold for a bench type gun I know. But it doesn't defeat the purpose as I'm keeping the case body true the whole time. If I were to use the mallet, as I have in the past, I would be defeating the purpose as there is too much possibility of causing distortion in the brass. Either way, as long as you keep the brass in there true.
heres the die with the brass all the way in and the decapping pin having just punched out the primer.
Tapping it out with the stem. I showed this at an angle, but I do it straight up and down.
the finished neck
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
Okay... go easy on me, my first attempt at yoo-tuub
Press is a Harrell's combo press; has stations for both inline neck sizer and seating dies, and a threaded 7/8x14 hole for f/l sizing. Sold my R.W. Hart as it was collecting dust after this one came home.
The base you see under the sizer is a widget from L.E. Wilson, it holds about 25 large rifle primers while still having plenty of room for the decapping rod in its various positions. R.W. Hart makes one also; it is much larger and holds more primers, interestingly it is actually *too* wide at the base to fit neatly on their own press?!? The thinner cap shown in the previous pictures comes with the seater dies (as mentioned); the purpose is to prevent an inadvertent high primer or stray kernel of powder from accidentally affecting the seating depth. Obviously it can be used for other things
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Okay... go easy on me, my first attempt at yoo-tuub
Press is a Harrell's combo press; has stations for both inline neck sizer and seating dies, and a threaded 7/8x14 hole for f/l sizing. Sold my R.W. Hart as it was collecting dust after this one came home.
The base you see under the sizer is a widget from L.E. Wilson, it holds about 25 large rifle primers while still having plenty of room for the decapping rod in its various positions. R.W. Hart makes one also; it is much larger and holds more primers, interestingly it is actually *too* wide at the base to fit neatly on their own press?!? The thinner cap shown in the previous pictures comes with the seater dies (as mentioned); the purpose is to prevent an inadvertent high primer or stray kernel of powder from accidentally affecting the seating depth. Obviously it can be used for other things
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Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
memilanuk,
That's a pretty slick press. Unfortunately no one in the Twin Cities carries one like it. It sure makes it go faster. It took me a bit until I got a system worked out but now I'm about half as fast as loading out of the RCBS Rockchucker.
memilanuk,
That's a pretty slick press. Unfortunately no one in the Twin Cities carries one like it. It sure makes it go faster. It took me a bit until I got a system worked out but now I'm about half as fast as loading out of the RCBS Rockchucker.
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
That setup worked pretty much the same on a regular arbor press (RW Hart), and should work on that monster you use
Check 'em out...
Wilson neck die bases @ Midway USA
Should even work for the neandertals using hammers on their sizing dies
That setup worked pretty much the same on a regular arbor press (RW Hart), and should work on that monster you use
Check 'em out...
Wilson neck die bases @ Midway USA
Should even work for the neandertals using hammers on their sizing dies
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
Generally speaking... my neck dies don't get as much use as in the past. Most of the loads I shoot are warm enough that I found myself needing to F/L size more frequently. One option would be to neck size as shown, and also use a Redding body die to bump the shoulder as needed. Being fundamentally lazy when it comes to such things
I usually opt for a Redding Type 'S' f/l bushing die to do both in one pass. When loading at the range these neck dies do come in handy as the press is much lighter and easier to haul around.
Generally speaking... my neck dies don't get as much use as in the past. Most of the loads I shoot are warm enough that I found myself needing to F/L size more frequently. One option would be to neck size as shown, and also use a Redding body die to bump the shoulder as needed. Being fundamentally lazy when it comes to such things
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: memilanuk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... When loading at the range these neck dies do come in handy as the press is much lighter and easier to haul around.</div></div>
Not mine
...but I spose I could get used to the hammer without too many problems.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: memilanuk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... When loading at the range these neck dies do come in handy as the press is much lighter and easier to haul around.</div></div>
Not mine
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
I'm a LE Wilson fan but I'll stick to redding dies for sizing. Even most of the BR crowd I run with still use the old Rock Chucker with Redding sizer. 427 you know who I'm talking about. See what they say at S&S.
I'm a LE Wilson fan but I'll stick to redding dies for sizing. Even most of the BR crowd I run with still use the old Rock Chucker with Redding sizer. 427 you know who I'm talking about. See what they say at S&S.
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kick-Ass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a LE Wilson fan but I'll stick to redding dies for sizing. Even most of the BR crowd I run with still use the old Rock Chucker with Redding sizer. 427 you know who I'm talking about. See what they say at S&S. </div></div>
I have found that redding dies give me better runouts than the Wilsons. Don't get me wrong! I love Wilson equipment too. However, my reloading buddys have all checked the runouts with the Wilson versus the Redding and the Redding wins every time.
Article about die Comparison for bullet run outs!
Terry
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kick-Ass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a LE Wilson fan but I'll stick to redding dies for sizing. Even most of the BR crowd I run with still use the old Rock Chucker with Redding sizer. 427 you know who I'm talking about. See what they say at S&S. </div></div>
I have found that redding dies give me better runouts than the Wilsons. Don't get me wrong! I love Wilson equipment too. However, my reloading buddys have all checked the runouts with the Wilson versus the Redding and the Redding wins every time.
Article about die Comparison for bullet run outs!
Terry
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
CKA,
Do the guys use a portable bench and load while they're out there or do they load before with a pre-determined hot/cold acceptable load? I know BR guys here who do both is why I ask.
CKA,
Do the guys use a portable bench and load while they're out there or do they load before with a pre-determined hot/cold acceptable load? I know BR guys here who do both is why I ask.
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: suasponte</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kick-Ass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a LE Wilson fan but I'll stick to redding dies for sizing. Even most of the BR crowd I run with still use the old Rock Chucker with Redding sizer. 427 you know who I'm talking about. See what they say at S&S. </div></div>
I have found that redding dies give me better runouts than the Wilsons. Don't get me wrong! I love Wilson equipment too. However, my reloading buddys have all checked the runouts with the Wilson versus the Redding and the Redding wins every time.
Article about die Comparison for bullet run outs!
Terry</div></div>
I don't know why but I just read that story this past week for some reason. Personally, I like Redding, but I have doubts as to their 'across the board' super accuracy. They are good don't get me wrong. But I've noticed in cases where over time and a few loads I start getting fliers. I've noticed with the Wilson dies that I didn't shrink my best groups per se, but I did eliminate 4 of 5 fliers (or better). Meaning typically with my Redding dies I used on my .300 WM I got .75"-1.5" groups @ 300. After 4-5 reloadings I would basically get within those parameters, except every other or third group I'd get a flier than landed out in the 1-1.2 MOA range. I could still say my rifle was shooting .75" (1/4MOA) @ 300 because I would put a group together that showed that. What I wasn't taking into account was the flier groups. When I went to the Wilson Chamber type seater the fliers all but disappeared. Now with my 7x57 I'm back in the .75" to 1.5" (1/4-1/2 MOA) range. And NOT discounting groups where I have no explanation for a flier. It didn't improve overall accuracy, it just kept the bad ones from going out of standard accuracy.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: suasponte</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kick-Ass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a LE Wilson fan but I'll stick to redding dies for sizing. Even most of the BR crowd I run with still use the old Rock Chucker with Redding sizer. 427 you know who I'm talking about. See what they say at S&S. </div></div>
I have found that redding dies give me better runouts than the Wilsons. Don't get me wrong! I love Wilson equipment too. However, my reloading buddys have all checked the runouts with the Wilson versus the Redding and the Redding wins every time.
Article about die Comparison for bullet run outs!
Terry</div></div>
I don't know why but I just read that story this past week for some reason. Personally, I like Redding, but I have doubts as to their 'across the board' super accuracy. They are good don't get me wrong. But I've noticed in cases where over time and a few loads I start getting fliers. I've noticed with the Wilson dies that I didn't shrink my best groups per se, but I did eliminate 4 of 5 fliers (or better). Meaning typically with my Redding dies I used on my .300 WM I got .75"-1.5" groups @ 300. After 4-5 reloadings I would basically get within those parameters, except every other or third group I'd get a flier than landed out in the 1-1.2 MOA range. I could still say my rifle was shooting .75" (1/4MOA) @ 300 because I would put a group together that showed that. What I wasn't taking into account was the flier groups. When I went to the Wilson Chamber type seater the fliers all but disappeared. Now with my 7x57 I'm back in the .75" to 1.5" (1/4-1/2 MOA) range. And NOT discounting groups where I have no explanation for a flier. It didn't improve overall accuracy, it just kept the bad ones from going out of standard accuracy.
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
harmonics and bedding sometimes account for fliers more than shooters realize. Not saying it's your case, but something to consider.
A lot customer's 700P's have errant fliers that are unaccounted for. Bedding the action over the aluminium bedding blocks usually removes them in my experience.
harmonics and bedding sometimes account for fliers more than shooters realize. Not saying it's your case, but something to consider.
A lot customer's 700P's have errant fliers that are unaccounted for. Bedding the action over the aluminium bedding blocks usually removes them in my experience.
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
CKA,
Right, I'm talking about the second kind too. I go through 100 rounds without one then the next I get two and the next I get six or seven. The harmonics isn't an issue pretty much with a 1 1/2" barrel and the action is bedded. The rifle has been shooting a known load for the last 1000 rounds, out of 1900+. Now, this is discounting the one's I know I pulled or threw. Those are my fault and nothing I can do to the reloading process or the rifle is going to help that.
That leaves me narrowing down what I'm doing when reloading. I found two points of weakness with me and that is reloading, and parallax. I now double and triple check before I squeeze the trigger. And with the reloading I changed to the LE Wilson a little while ago for improvement there. So far it's worked as to keeping me without erratic fliers. Most of that went away when I started chamber die seating though. We'll see how the next few hundred rounds turn out.
CKA,
Right, I'm talking about the second kind too. I go through 100 rounds without one then the next I get two and the next I get six or seven. The harmonics isn't an issue pretty much with a 1 1/2" barrel and the action is bedded. The rifle has been shooting a known load for the last 1000 rounds, out of 1900+. Now, this is discounting the one's I know I pulled or threw. Those are my fault and nothing I can do to the reloading process or the rifle is going to help that.
That leaves me narrowing down what I'm doing when reloading. I found two points of weakness with me and that is reloading, and parallax. I now double and triple check before I squeeze the trigger. And with the reloading I changed to the LE Wilson a little while ago for improvement there. So far it's worked as to keeping me without erratic fliers. Most of that went away when I started chamber die seating though. We'll see how the next few hundred rounds turn out.
Re: LE Wilson Neck Die
While on the subject of neck sizing, I'll pass along a little mistake I found myself making. When I resize cases in the standard die in the Rockchucker press, I noticed after a while that the cases somehow didn't seem to be going in the shellholder all the way. After a little investigation I noticed what I was doing was not cleaning the shellholder often enough. The carbon from the primer pockets would sit in it and get pushed to the back with each case that went in. The crud built up under the lip. The shellholder is supposed to have some 'play' in where it sits so that as you feed a case up it will 'self-center'. I did a runout check on some cases and man was I surprised. Not good. So, I cleaned everything and the cases went back to minimal runout. I had to say I felt a little stupid about that. One of those things I thought took care of itself. Anyhow, now every 25-40 rounds I take a q-tip wipe out the shellholder.
While on the subject of neck sizing, I'll pass along a little mistake I found myself making. When I resize cases in the standard die in the Rockchucker press, I noticed after a while that the cases somehow didn't seem to be going in the shellholder all the way. After a little investigation I noticed what I was doing was not cleaning the shellholder often enough. The carbon from the primer pockets would sit in it and get pushed to the back with each case that went in. The crud built up under the lip. The shellholder is supposed to have some 'play' in where it sits so that as you feed a case up it will 'self-center'. I did a runout check on some cases and man was I surprised. Not good. So, I cleaned everything and the cases went back to minimal runout. I had to say I felt a little stupid about that. One of those things I thought took care of itself. Anyhow, now every 25-40 rounds I take a q-tip wipe out the shellholder.
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