Forgive me if there is a thread on this already, but what is the easiest way to get the crosshjairs of your scope perfectly level? It takes me forever to get this done. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Rifle Scopes Level crosshairs
- Thread starter aac_shooter
- Start date
Re: Level crosshairs
One way is with feeler gages. Frank had a write up with pic's on how to do that with the gages. I used them to mount a couple scopes and it worked great. Maybe someone here can direct you to that write up.
One way is with feeler gages. Frank had a write up with pic's on how to do that with the gages. I used them to mount a couple scopes and it worked great. Maybe someone here can direct you to that write up.
Re: Level crosshairs
Another way is hang a cord with some kind of weight from the ceiling and use that cord has a plume line and line up the crosshair with the cord. Have done this in my garage and it works also. But the feeler gage is the way to go.
Another way is hang a cord with some kind of weight from the ceiling and use that cord has a plume line and line up the crosshair with the cord. Have done this in my garage and it works also. But the feeler gage is the way to go.
Re: Level crosshairs
The custom search engine will help you find some excellent threads on this subject:
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=010955838166721108978:qcbx5qqy10o&hl=en
The one that I used deals with leveling the rifle in a rest and then using the corner of a building (at some distance) to set the cross-hairs.
The custom search engine will help you find some excellent threads on this subject:
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=010955838166721108978:qcbx5qqy10o&hl=en
The one that I used deals with leveling the rifle in a rest and then using the corner of a building (at some distance) to set the cross-hairs.
Re: Level crosshairs
Thanks for your input. I found the method I will use thanks to other Sniper's Hide threads. Again this site is great.
Thanks for your input. I found the method I will use thanks to other Sniper's Hide threads. Again this site is great.
Re: Level crosshairs
+1 feeler gauge method is super easy and only cost $7. You scope will be perfectly level every time.
+1 feeler gauge method is super easy and only cost $7. You scope will be perfectly level every time.
Re: Level crosshairs
Using feeler guages also makes sure the scope is level to the rifle. Using a plumb line will ensure the scope is correct, but you can still have the rifle canted.
Jim
Using feeler guages also makes sure the scope is level to the rifle. Using a plumb line will ensure the scope is correct, but you can still have the rifle canted.
Jim
Re: Level crosshairs
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 308crosshairs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 308crosshairs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
pepperbelly said:
Re: Level crosshairs
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 308crosshairs</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pepperbelly</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Using feeler guages also makes sure the scope is level to the rifle. Using a plumb line will ensure the scope is correct, but you can still have the rifle canted.</div></div>
If you do use the plumb line, you do have to make sure that the rifle is completely level and not canted with some kind of bubble level. I use a small pen like bubble level for that, then the plumb line can be used with confidence. The feeler gage is the best way and most user friendly. </div></div>
I use a level on the rail to ensure that the rifle is perfectly level, and constantly check that the rifle remains level as I align the reticle's vertical post and crosshair with a plumb line. This has always worked well for me.
The "problem" with the feeler guage method is that it really only works when you are using a one-piece base. In order for the feeler guage method to be perfectly accurate, the turret block/saddle and the base need to be in firm contact with the guage's shims to ensure that the block/saddle (and thus the scope) are perfectly level. Any portion of the feeler guage's shims that are not in solid contact with the rail/base or scope turret block/saddle can result in canting of the guage's shims (canted shims result in leveling error of the scope itself).
Two-piece bases lack the continuous span of rail required to allow positioning of the feeler guage's shims where they can make full contact with the scope's turret block/saddle. Therefore, the best, most accurate way to level a scope when using a two-piece base/rail is to level the rifle, and while keeping the rifle level - align the reticle's vertical post and crosshair with a plumb line.
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 308crosshairs</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pepperbelly</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Using feeler guages also makes sure the scope is level to the rifle. Using a plumb line will ensure the scope is correct, but you can still have the rifle canted.</div></div>
If you do use the plumb line, you do have to make sure that the rifle is completely level and not canted with some kind of bubble level. I use a small pen like bubble level for that, then the plumb line can be used with confidence. The feeler gage is the best way and most user friendly. </div></div>
I use a level on the rail to ensure that the rifle is perfectly level, and constantly check that the rifle remains level as I align the reticle's vertical post and crosshair with a plumb line. This has always worked well for me.
The "problem" with the feeler guage method is that it really only works when you are using a one-piece base. In order for the feeler guage method to be perfectly accurate, the turret block/saddle and the base need to be in firm contact with the guage's shims to ensure that the block/saddle (and thus the scope) are perfectly level. Any portion of the feeler guage's shims that are not in solid contact with the rail/base or scope turret block/saddle can result in canting of the guage's shims (canted shims result in leveling error of the scope itself).
Two-piece bases lack the continuous span of rail required to allow positioning of the feeler guage's shims where they can make full contact with the scope's turret block/saddle. Therefore, the best, most accurate way to level a scope when using a two-piece base/rail is to level the rifle, and while keeping the rifle level - align the reticle's vertical post and crosshair with a plumb line.
Keith
Re: Level crosshairs
Depending on the rifle/scope combo you can also stand a 4ft carpenters level vertical against a wall and sight it once you know the rail is level and/or bore is vertical. Works quite well. Can be used to verify the accuracy of other methods too.
Depending on the rifle/scope combo you can also stand a 4ft carpenters level vertical against a wall and sight it once you know the rail is level and/or bore is vertical. Works quite well. Can be used to verify the accuracy of other methods too.
Re: Level crosshairs
I just did this a few weeks ago. I have hard wood floors with floor to ceiling windows in my house. I put my rifle on its bi-pod and sight in on a neighbor's house at ~150yds. I used the corner of the house (there was good contrast for this line) and then used the feeler gauges. I also place a center-circle bubble level on top of the scope to ensure it's level.
You have to keep them (gauges) in between the scope and rail while you're tightening the ring screws or the act of tightening will cause the cross-hairs to cant again. I have to keep re-checking the level between each turn of the wrench. Though, keep in mind, that if you tighten enough w/o removing some of the gauges, you won't be able to remove them as they'll be clamped down tight between the scope and rail!
I just did this a few weeks ago. I have hard wood floors with floor to ceiling windows in my house. I put my rifle on its bi-pod and sight in on a neighbor's house at ~150yds. I used the corner of the house (there was good contrast for this line) and then used the feeler gauges. I also place a center-circle bubble level on top of the scope to ensure it's level.
You have to keep them (gauges) in between the scope and rail while you're tightening the ring screws or the act of tightening will cause the cross-hairs to cant again. I have to keep re-checking the level between each turn of the wrench. Though, keep in mind, that if you tighten enough w/o removing some of the gauges, you won't be able to remove them as they'll be clamped down tight between the scope and rail!
Re: Level crosshairs
like battle axe above said with the level, much like the way i dot it.
starts towards the end of part 1:
LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - base / scope / bipod / bore site PART 1
LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - base / scope / bipod / bore site PART 2
level the rifle 1st, then level the crosshairs.
the feeler gauge metheod works also, but doing it with a round receiver makes it a bit tedious at times.
you can also make sure the rifle is level, then match up the vertical crosshair to a wire, rope, string, etc. hung up with a weight on the end. the plumb bob menthod.
like battle axe above said with the level, much like the way i dot it.
starts towards the end of part 1:
LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - base / scope / bipod / bore site PART 1
LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - base / scope / bipod / bore site PART 2
level the rifle 1st, then level the crosshairs.
the feeler gauge metheod works also, but doing it with a round receiver makes it a bit tedious at times.
you can also make sure the rifle is level, then match up the vertical crosshair to a wire, rope, string, etc. hung up with a weight on the end. the plumb bob menthod.
Re: Level crosshairs
I took a white sheet of paper and taped it to a wall at a convienient hieght, then placed a carpenter's level across the paper and with a sharpie drew a level horizontal line. Make sure your rifle is level, use lowest setting and focus (best you can) on the horizontal line with your horizontal crosshair. Rotate scope to match crosshairs to line.Worked great for me.
I took a white sheet of paper and taped it to a wall at a convienient hieght, then placed a carpenter's level across the paper and with a sharpie drew a level horizontal line. Make sure your rifle is level, use lowest setting and focus (best you can) on the horizontal line with your horizontal crosshair. Rotate scope to match crosshairs to line.Worked great for me.
