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LMT .308 MWS

Noticing some over pressure issues with a 16 inch chrome lined barrel and a sandman s and slashes xh heavy buffer and spring. With average temps with a lot of 200 rounds of prime and 200 rounds of fgmm I blew 2 primers per lot (not super worried its hot ammo and summer time) Fast forward to a super hot day in august with some bullets first m118lr in 100 rounds I blew somewhere between 10-15 primers slam out. Now that is not a top tier ammo manufacturer and it was hot I have not been back to the stretch this thing out since but still thinking back to the 4 blown primers with the prime and fgmm id still like to tame it a little bit and get it to the more reliable side given thats what sold me on an mws.

I have a couple of options here Im waiting on a sandman k as well which I assume will be slightly less pressure than the s though when I shot it with my ffl before the before swap in lower light it was spitting a pretty noticeable flame which id like to avoid. Or I can try a BRT eztune gas tube when they become available again or perhaps increase buffer weight further with some tungsten weights. Id prefer to stick to these options vs bolts and gas blocks with moveable parts.

what do you guys think?
 
Noticing some over pressure issues with a 16 inch chrome lined barrel and a sandman s and slashes xh heavy buffer and spring. With average temps with a lot of 200 rounds of prime and 200 rounds of fgmm I blew 2 primers per lot (not super worried its hot ammo and summer time) Fast forward to a super hot day in august with some bullets first m118lr in 100 rounds I blew somewhere between 10-15 primers slam out. Now that is not a top tier ammo manufacturer and it was hot I have not been back to the stretch this thing out since but still thinking back to the 4 blown primers with the prime and fgmm id still like to tame it a little bit and get it to the more reliable side given thats what sold me on an mws.

I have a couple of options here Im waiting on a sandman k as well which I assume will be slightly less pressure than the s though when I shot it with my ffl before the before swap in lower light it was spitting a pretty noticeable flame which id like to avoid. Or I can try a BRT eztune gas tube when they become available again or perhaps increase buffer weight further with some tungsten weights. Id prefer to stick to these options vs bolts and gas blocks with moveable parts.

what do you guys think?
Have you considered a rubber city armory adjustable gas key? I'd probably go with a BRT EZ Tune gas tube, but an adjustable gas key is another option. Also, the tubbs ar10 spring made a big difference in my rifle's cyclic rate, I'm not sure how that compares to the slash spring, but it might be worth looking into.
 
I had saw that a while back but honestly forgot about it. That is certainly something I'm going to look into. It aligns with my want for no constantly moving parts.
 
Anyone have a 6.5 CM MARS-H complete rifle on order and receive it recently? Curious to know where LMT is on production. Saw a bunch of contract overrun 6.5CM uppers recently.
 
I can’t determine any rhyme or reason to their production. I just got word that a MLC (Mars-L) pistol was being shipped. V1 just got 20 of them, so I believe they are on small frame currently.
 
I'm sitting on a December 2021 "allocation" through V1, so I'm sure it'll be a year :ROFLMAO:

Although this type of thing is nothing new for the gun industry, having a company sitting on $3700 of my money for months on end, with no idea when I'm getting the product I paid for, still doesn't sit well with me.
 
Have you considered a rubber city armory adjustable gas key? I'd probably go with a BRT EZ Tune gas tube, but an adjustable gas key is another option. Also, the tubbs ar10 spring made a big difference in my rifle's cyclic rate, I'm not sure how that compares to the slash spring, but it might be worth looking into.

My buddy recommended the Tubbs spring so I went that route seemed like the cheapest most minimally invasive option so I figured I'd try that first. It helped him alot with his predatobr and his buffer was around the same weight as mine. Looking at it compared to the heavy buffers spring it certainly seems quite different.

Hoping this will be it if not I'll try a gas tube or carrier key. I'll report back.
 
Has anyone had any problems with failure to feed when switching from the 16” 308 barrel to the 24” 6.5 Creedmoor? I made the switch and fired FGMM 130 Berger’s. Grouping of approx .5 MOA, however many failures to feed. Does anyone have a solution to this problem. Seems like there isn’t enough gas pressure to throw the bolt all the way back to strip another round. Does anyone have any solutions?
hey did you ever get this issue resolved? just got my 20" 6.5cm barrel in for my lmt mws south American contract overrun gun and did the barrel swap immediately. having a hard time feeding and extracting. what am I doing wrong/ how did you problem solve?
 
hey did you ever get this issue resolved? just got my 20" 6.5cm barrel in for my lmt mws south American contract overrun gun and did the barrel swap immediately. having a hard time feeding and extracting. what am I doing wrong/ how did you problem solve?
You sure it's not a mag issue? My gun did not like Magpul or Lancer mags. I switched to D&H 20 round mags for both 6.5 and 308 and they've been working well for me.
 
You sure it's not a mag issue? My gun did not like Magpul or Lancer mags. I switched to D&H 20 round mags for both 6.5 and 308 and they've been working well for me.
hmm could be the issue. I'm using gen 3 pmags. should I get the duramag's? :O
 
Have you considered a rubber city armory adjustable gas key? I'd probably go with a BRT EZ Tune gas tube, but an adjustable gas key is another option. Also, the tubbs ar10 spring made a big difference in my rifle's cyclic rate, I'm not sure how that compares to the slash spring, but it might be worth looking into
Noticing some over pressure issues with a 16 inch chrome lined barrel and a sandman s and slashes xh heavy buffer and spring. With average temps with a lot of 200 rounds of prime and 200 rounds of fgmm I blew 2 primers per lot (not super worried its hot ammo and summer time) Fast forward to a super hot day in august with some bullets first m118lr in 100 rounds I blew somewhere between 10-15 primers slam out. Now that is not a top tier ammo manufacturer and it was hot I have not been back to the stretch this thing out since but still thinking back to the 4 blown primers with the prime and fgmm id still like to tame it a little bit and get it to the more reliable side given thats what sold me on an mws.

I have a couple of options here Im waiting on a sandman k as well which I assume will be slightly less pressure than the s though when I shot it with my ffl before the before swap in lower light it was spitting a pretty noticeable flame which id like to avoid. Or I can try a BRT eztune gas tube when they become available again or perhaps increase buffer weight further with some tungsten weights. Id prefer to stick to these options vs bolts and gas blocks with moveable parts.

what do you guys think?
I bought a 50/50 brt for the setup you mentioned and also swapped to a tubb flatwire spring. With that combo and factory h3 buffer Unsuppressed I could barely lock back at empty shooting 118lr. Would not lock back with various m80 clones. Works great with h2.

I would go all the way down to the smallest port black river will cut for you and start lowering buffer weight if needed.
 
I bought a 50/50 brt for the setup you mentioned and also swapped to a tubb flatwire spring. With that combo and factory h3 buffer Unsuppressed I could barely lock back at empty shooting 118lr. Would not lock back with various m80 clones. Works great with h2.

I would go all the way down to the smallest port black river will cut for you and start lowering buffer weight if needed.
Well I got the Tubbs spring and I couldn't get it to fit with slashes heavy buffer due to the diameter and how wound the spring is. So I took the weights out of the heavy buffer and stuck them in the h3. I'll try this first and report back when I get a chance. If not I'm going the brt route and will take your advice on that I appreciate it!
 
I’ve been lucky with getting things on time or sooner than expected until now. Currently waiting on a 18” 308 barrel from July with September estimate.
 
MWS project I was working on this week. Got a wild hair up my butt to convert a Proof barrel to work.



V9cw3Ud.jpg

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MWS project I was working on this week. Got a wild hair up my butt to convert a Proof barrel to work.



V9cw3Ud.jpg

XcmjRPL.jpg
Will you be offering converted barrels? Cost?Heard the rumor LMT and Proof may be working on a some sort of deal. Ideal scenario for a company the did those conversions….
 
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Will you be offering converted barrels? Cost?Heard the rumor LMT and Proof may be working on a some sort of deal. Ideal scenario for a company the did those conversions….

We’re entertaining it. We’ve been doing small frame conversions for a while, but the MWS is a whole other animal to convert mainly do the wild fluctuations in contour differences with AR10 barrels.
 
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The 22” carbon barrel is about 6oz lighter than a 16” steel barrel. Even with the can on, it’s pleasantly light in the front end, even with the musket length.

I have a few more things up my sleeve to get the weight down even more.
Exciting.
Any idea when you’ll have your mind made up on offering them?? Love to get in line. 😉
 
We’re entertaining it. We’ve been doing small frame conversions for a while, but the MWS is a whole other animal to convert mainly do the wild fluctuations in contour differences with AR10 barrels.
Count me in for one if ya end up taking orders!
 
I need to put a few thousand more rounds through this guinea pig before I can commit to doing them for customers.
I always thought the steel portion on the cf barrels was too short to accommodate the length of the mws shank. Is it actually long enough or did you have to counterbore the sleeve to keep it off the cf? If you had to get creative for the cf would you have reservations about a steel barrel?
 
I took my 13.5 and SR25 ACC into the mountains this weekend and can offer a few observations.

While the ACC is noticably lighter than the 13.5 stripped, from a practical standpoint once optics, cans and loaded mags are added., I really don't think there is a difference between the two.

Recoil, with both the 16 inch ACC and the 13.5 wearing the same dead air brake. Pretty much the same.

While I would not sell my SR25, I honestly shot the MWS more. While there are alot of good large frame gas guns, it's really hard to beat the mws, it just works.

I was running the dead air sandman k on both rifles, and while it's loud, I like it and think it serves it's role well. I think I will look for another mid to full size can that offers a little better suppression, while not overgassing the system too much.

All in all good weekend
 
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Couldn't leave good enough along. Still tinkering away with my MWS.

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I got the while hair up my butt I wanted to try to shave 1 lb from the gun using a variety of methods. Some more invasive than others.

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Have you thought about a titanium carrier, for weight, and Superlative gas block to help regulate?
 
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Received my 308 16” pin/weld Bartlein custom MWS barrel. Mocked it up as I’m waiting for some LMT Barrel locking screws to come in. The DA Sandman-S-MIL is still in jail. Should be a fun little range plinker.
 

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Well I know who did my conversion, I wasn't sure who did the one for HenryTheAce.

I knew Marvin Pitts was doing then, but wasn't sure if there was someone else out there doing them as well.
Lol! Missed understood who was asking. Need to pull my head out of my ass and read.

Really great to see more people doing MWS conversations
 
How’s it functioning with the new carrier and gas block?
Which buffer and spring are you using?

Haven't shot it yet.

With the steel bcg, it had a standard spring and H3 buffer. I'll likely ditch the H3 for something lighter and turn the gas way down. I need to dig through my parts drawer to see what I have and figure out what I need to order to dial in tuning it.
 
Haven't shot it yet.

With the steel bcg, it had a standard spring and H3 buffer. I'll likely ditch the H3 for something lighter and turn the gas way down. I need to dig through my parts drawer to see what I have and figure out what I need to order to dial in tuning it.
Please keep us updated!