Lowering my SD on handloads

[Ghillieman37]

Having issues with keeping my SD low on my 6.5 creedmoor handloads. I'm full length resizing my Hornady brass..trim lengths are within a few thousandths...overall lengths are within a few thousandths....and my powder charges are almost exact. I can't figure it out.

I am running the Nosler 140 RDF....with a standard RCBS 2 die set...could it be that I'm not contacting the ogive while seating?...but rather the tip of bullet?...

I'm also wondering if it's a chronograph issue. Running the caldwell precision.

 

[velvetant]

Have you weighed your cases? Set aside the light and heavy ones or use for fouling shots.
Do you have the tools to measure base to ogive to check consistency? You can also use a black sharpie on the bullet and see if the seating stem contacts the bullet at the ogive.

 

[black max]

Have you weighed your cases? Set aside the light and heavy ones or use for fouling shots.
Do you have the tools to measure base to ogive to check consistency? You can also use a black sharpie on the bullet and see if the seating stem contacts the bullet at the ogive.

What is your SD on said load?

 

[black max]

I wouldn't bother weight sorting your brass. If your going to sort it it needs to be done by capacity not weight. Sorting brass is yet another waste of time unless your shooting benchrest. How many firings on the brass?

 

[black max]

Your chrony isn't the best either. What SD are you getting with said load?

 

[bjay]

Powder charge and neck tension IMO is what control's them digits..and seating dept for groups

 

[black max]

Powder charge and neck tension IMO is what control's them digits..and seating dept for groups

Exactly!

 

[canezach]

What scale are you using? How When you say your powder charges are "almost exact", how "almost exact" are we talking? A hundredth of a grain difference between a few rounds, or are we talking more like 41.26 grains in one and 42.04 in another? How are you setting your neck tension? I use a Redding Type S full length die with assorted bushings, then I run an expander mandrel through the neck to push any irregularities to the outside of the neck and ensure each case has 0.001" neck tension. Are you annealing your brass?

 

[bjay]

What scale are you using? How When you say your powder charges are "almost exact", how "almost exact" are we talking? A hundredth of a grain difference between a few rounds, or are we talking more like 41.26 grains in one and 42.04 in another? How are you setting your neck tension? I use a Redding Type S full length die with assorted bushings, then I run an expander mandrel through the neck to push any irregularities to the outside of the neck and ensure each case has 0.001" neck tension. Are you annealing your brass?

A let say 42.40 and 42.50 is not going to make es of 20 or double digits SD..its more than..ive been playing with neck tension and my 0001 vs 0002 give diff ave fps and SD with same powder charge
I also use expander mandrel..even inconsistent shoulder bump will effect your numbers more than .2-.3gr powder..A PET LOAD should be repeatable not one hole today and 1 moa tomorrow.and you dont have to do the whole 9 yards like benchrest shooter to achieve a concistent load. Concistency when loading is EVERYTHING. I resized 10 brass im getting if im getting 1-7 thousands bump im switching or sending die back

 

[ZiaHunter]

To get Hornady brass to perform well it needs a fair amount of case prep. Debur flash holes and uniform primer pockets. I have seen a fair amount of neck wall thickness variation and this will result in variable neck tension. Neck tension and charge weight uniformity are two of the most important variables when trying to minimize ES. If you don't want to neck turn, use an expander mandrel after sizing.

 

[shornik]

I agree w/ ZiaHunter. The Hornady brass requires some case prep. I was able to achieve lower SD's as a whole with Hornady brass for my 6.5 Creedmoor. (Data is posted below).

I did the following: uniform/debur flash holes, cleaned primer pockets, bevel and chamfered neck after trimming to 1.910". I use a Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die and adjust to .002 smaller than the caliber (So .262 is the Inside Diameter after resizing). I will also clean the inside of the neck after tumbling because sometimes there is a white residue left from the polishing compound in the media. You will feel it almost polish up with a Q-Tip. I'm not sure how much that helps, but it's a step I take. Hope this helps!

Ruger Precision Rifle 24" Barrel 1:8 Twist
H4350
Sierra 142 gr. Matchking
Hornady Brass / CCI BR-2 Primers
Seated .020" off the lands * (3.214" from the OGIVE)
DA: 1400
Temp: 78
Humidity: 59
*Used MagentoSpeed V3 Chrono (which is why POI is 2" left), Kestrel, & IR Thermometer for Barrel Temp.

*Note: Cold Clean Bore for 1st Shot was 40 fps slower. This is a trend.

 

[kthomas]

I load for the 6.5 creedmoor using Lapua, Prime and Hornady brass.

I use the same reloading techniques to load the 3 types of brass listed above (slightly different powder charges for each, developed through load testing).

For the Lapua and Prime brass, I've been able to achieve consistent ES of 15-20 fps. For the Hornady, using the same techniques and equipment, I can't keep ES below 50.

Hornady brass has been frustrating to load with. Lapua and Prime have been way more consistent. If you want consistency, I would look at purchasing some Lapua brass. The hornady is almost not worth dealing with from my experience.