Lug or Stock?

1J04

Lost Squirrel
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Aug 7, 2011
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    PNW WA
    Posted this in the Gunsmithing section but only got one answer and it didn't work out. Any informative input welcomed.

    Have a Remington 700 w/scope mounted and just got a new stock w/full length bedding block. The barrel is not centered in the stock channel, it's touching the left hand side of stock with a gap on the right approximately 1/16. I've heard you can tap the recoil lug with a brass hammer to adjust the recoil lug position to correct this problem. Don't wanna go banging away prior to some sage advice. Appreciate the input. If it's attributed to the stock, how to fix?
     
    Re: Lug or Stock?

    hog out the recoil lug area in the stock with a dremel, wrap five or six turns of electrical tape around the barrel mid way and epoxy bed lug area and rear tang, should center the action and barrel, and be bedded all in one shot, done deal.
     
    Re: Lug or Stock?

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: distantplinker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wood or synthetic would help us answer also, let us know. </div></div>


    It's a Hogue Overmolded with a full length bedding block.
     
    Re: Lug or Stock?

    That stock is just molded plastic with rubber over it. The for-end on those can be warped a bit. It should shoot fine the way it is. I wouldn't go changing anything on the rifle because of that stock. You might want to look into upgrading to a more rigid stock when you can afford to. Even a B&C would be better and not very expensive.
     
    Re: Lug or Stock?

    Well, there are two Hogue Overmolded models out there.

    One does have a aluminum bedding block and frame that extends down the barrel channel (but the frame will be covered and not seen) and the other one that comes on some Remington’s that have aluminum pillars molded into the plastic/polymer action block with no forarm support.

    Assuming you want to keep the stock the only correction is to remove material from the barrel channel.

    DO NOT bend the lug!
    DO NOT mod the bedding block!

    Doing so, you would end up skewing the action and its fit and function with the other parts… trigger, mag box, etc. not to mention adding stress to the action. The only correction should be to the barrel channel.

    If this is a stock you bought new and has the frame, first I would check the barreled action to see if the barrel is miss aligned. Roll it on table, is the action wobbling unnaturally? If not the problem is in the stock and should be returned to hogue for replacement as it is defective.

    If this stock is a Remington take off your stuck with the choice of buying a better stock or modding the barrel channel.
     
    Re: Lug or Stock?

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1J04</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tac284</div><div class="ubbcode-body">2156SMK is right! If your stock is B&C stock loosen the front and rear action screws. Snug the front action screw up just tell it touches your bottom metal (not tight) then start snugging your rear one and see if the tang starts to shift down into the bedding block. I like to look down the length of the gun from the breech end and watch as I snug the rear screw. Had this problem with B&C and HS stocks. Good luck! </div></div>

    Well that worked great, but only till the front screw began to be tightened, then same problem. Not schooled in stock correction issues, even what may be considered "basic". Would shimming the opposite side of recoil lug recess/bed make any practical sense? Would think it may work, but how well, for how long, and then cant of scope issue, which would be a simple fix. Just throwing that out there.</div></div>


    After reading this in your other post I believe the issue is in the block, you could bed the action and that “may” fix the issue. But it sounds like something is warped or badly stressed for it to go from straight to pulled over once its torqued. I would return it to hogue or where you bought it and start saving for something a little better.

    In the mean time, a wood laminate is a good cheap solution and can be eBay’ed around 125.00, new B&C from stockysstocks will run 225ish as will a used HS from here or eBay. New HS stock startaround 300+ and I dont feel that are worth that for what you get...
     
    Re: Lug or Stock?

    You could always open IP the channel with a little elbow grease. I use a dowel about the size of the barrel and wrap it with aggressive grit paper until it is slightly larger than the barrel and work it down on one side until it gets opened up the same as the other side. Takes a little work but cheap fix if you take the time to do it.
     
    Re: Lug or Stock?

    The first thing to do is see where the problem is. You will need a good steel straight edge at least 18" long, a set of dial calipers and another pair of helping hands.
    Hold the steel straight edge tightly against one side of the action at the 9 oclock position and extending out along the barrel at least 12" or so. Get some one to measure the gap between the barrel and the straight edge precisely. Now hold the straignt edge tight along the action at the 3 oclock position and repeat the procedure. 1/2 of the difference will show you how far the center line of the barrel is off the center line of the action.
    Very few factory barreled action have the barrel torqued on precisely parrel with the action. A cetain about of offset is within tolerances and does not effect accuracy at all. this is why we have windage adjustments in scopes and bases. Tapping the lug will not change this and usually cannot be acomplished without loosening the barrel in the action anyway.
    As long as it is not touching the forearm on the tight side it just a cosmetics thing, ignore it. If it really bugs you or is touching then sand the barrel channel in the forearm out on the tight side.
    There is a reason, when we have a gunsmith blueprint or true up an action, we usually pay them to square the action face and the threads up to the action body, and why we buy precision ground recoil lugs.
     
    Re: Lug or Stock?

    Now there's some great answers and I appreciate it. All sound advice. I have both a pillar bedded Hogue (no problems) and the new full length bedding block Hogue (problem). Appears to be just asthetics regarding not appearing to be lined up uniformaly on both sides of barrel. Have this stock on a Remington Model 700 7MM. I like how quiet these stocks are and the grip in rainy weather. Just put 3 new reloads out of this gun since changing to the Hogue stock and it shot right at an inch without playing with seating depth. I just may go with something else later, but for now, I suppose I'll play with this. Damn I love this site !!!