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Gunsmithing M40 Build - Stock questions.

ncoutdoorsman

Sergeant
Minuteman
Aug 3, 2008
96
0
Wilmington, NC
Hey guys,

Im making progress on my M40 build (not A1) but I am having a heck of a time getting that pressed-in checkering out of the ADL stock.

Its quite deep in some areas and my arm is wearing out sanding the stinkin thing. I am wondering if anyone has tips or some advice how I could make the job easier on myself.

I haven't even started to convert the ADL to BDL yet.

Or... is there a stock maker out there that sells a reproduction M40 stock with that dull oil finish?
 
Re: M40 Build - Stock questions.

You're doing it the hard way
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Call GPC (Numrich) @ 866-686-7424 or go to www.e-GunParts.com and look for part number 553690.

Here's their catalog description -
"Stock, Short Action, BDL, Heavy Barrel Varmint Satin Finished Walnut W/ Right Hand Monte Carlo Cheekpiece And Buttplate - Drilled For Front & Rear Swivels."

I used one for my M40 replica several years ago and it worked out great. It's basically one of the old style 700 Police stocks, before they went to synthetic. This stock has no checkering, no fore end tip or grip cap, and comes with a plain plastic buttplate. It has the later ADL "squared-off" shaped forend so you'll have to reshape it to the earlier rounded off M40 style, but using a wood rasp and some sandpaper it was pretty easy for a novice woodworker like me to accomplish, and remember it's already inletted for the BDL bottom metal.. You'll also have to fit a period style aluminum buttplate, but You'd have to do that no matter what stock you try to adapt. It;ll work into an exact M40 duplicate if you do your job right. Mine cost me a little over $150, but that was over five years ago.

I have several friends who built their M40 replicas from different stocks. By consensus, this one is the easiest.
 
Re: M40 Build - Stock questions.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ncoutdoorsman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Billy!

I was hoping for an answer just like that.

How hard is it to fit the aluminum buttplate to the stock after removing the plastic one? It it close or will some fitting still need to be done?

</div></div>

A little fitting will be needed, at least it was that way on mine. I used an M725 buttplate that I found at GPC. It looks just like the M721, M722, and early M700 buttplates found on the M40. I wound up shaping the buttplate to the stock using a stationary 12" disc sander at my friends machine shop, much like you'd do to fit a recoil pad. Then I sprayed the buttplate and M700 bottom metal with Aluma-Hyde flat black to match. Then I coverd both with a coat of clear satin to more approximate what came on the M40.

Best of luck on your project.
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Re: M40 Build - Stock questions.

Excellent info SpotcheckBilly.

I used a different stock from Numrich and had to open the barrel channel, and convert to BDL. The stock you listed is spendier, but would make life much simpler.

On fitting the aluminum buttplate, I just used a sanding block with 100 grit to fit the plate edges to the stock, then sanded the joint with progressively finer sandpaper up to 400 grit. I then hit it with steel wool before applying Boiled Linseed oil to the wood. It's a very rewarding process when you finish it, and cannot feel the transition between metal and wood.

-matt
 
Re: M40 Build - Stock questions.

Like the others said, Numrich is probably the best route to go...I have been doing the same thing and my arm is about wore out from sanding. I finally got the checkering out, but I have quite a bit of more work still to put into it.