Gunsmithing Machining a brake
- Thread starter kraigWY
- Start date
Re: Machining a brake
i'd thread the barrel concentric to the bore, mount the brake and then bore the exit hole .020" over bullet diameter while the barrel still set up in the lathe.
a reamer will follow the existing hole which may be eccentric to the threads.
i'd thread the barrel concentric to the bore, mount the brake and then bore the exit hole .020" over bullet diameter while the barrel still set up in the lathe.
a reamer will follow the existing hole which may be eccentric to the threads.
Re: Machining a brake
If your rifle is already threaded get a tap with the same thread as your rifle and put it in the chuck, then screw on your brake and centre drill it, use an 8mm drill as your finish hole size, that will give you good enough clearance for a .308 bullet.
If your rifle is already threaded get a tap with the same thread as your rifle and put it in the chuck, then screw on your brake and centre drill it, use an 8mm drill as your finish hole size, that will give you good enough clearance for a .308 bullet.
Re: Machining a brake
Try using a .005 over reamer for a .312 = 5/15 .003 wont matter it's just a hair..
Try using a .005 over reamer for a .312 = 5/15 .003 wont matter it's just a hair..
Re: Machining a brake
Just about every brake manufacturer strongly recommends at least .020" larger than the bullet dia.
Mark
Just about every brake manufacturer strongly recommends at least .020" larger than the bullet dia.
Mark
Re: Machining a brake
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kraigWY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If one was to build a break for a 308, would he ream the inside (bore) or bore it. I'm assuming I need to ream or bore it to .308 + .012.
I can't seem to locate a .320 reamer.
Just trying to see is I cam make my own brake. </div></div>
Drill the bore to just under .328", .320"ish then ream with a .328" or .330" reamer. You can also bore via single point carbide boring bar.
What your looking for is called "Chucking Reamers"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kraigWY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If one was to build a break for a 308, would he ream the inside (bore) or bore it. I'm assuming I need to ream or bore it to .308 + .012.
I can't seem to locate a .320 reamer.
Just trying to see is I cam make my own brake. </div></div>
Drill the bore to just under .328", .320"ish then ream with a .328" or .330" reamer. You can also bore via single point carbide boring bar.
What your looking for is called "Chucking Reamers"
Re: Machining a brake
I think there are several kinds of brakes. One involves recoil reduction, another involves muzzle flip, and others involve both to some degree.
Brakes which endeavor to reduce recoil can only achieve part of their goal, and suffer a side-effect that involves additional noise signatures. I'm not a hig fan of such effects or of the brakes that produce tham. My concept of recoil reduction involves chambering choices and load efficiencies, The recoil reducing brakes, IMHO, simply approach the concept as a means of applying a band-aid to a questionable choice involving the employment of excessive force.
OTOH, I see methods aimed at reducing muzzle flip as beneficial, and favor the slant-face concept embodied in the AK-74 brake as a reasonable solution. Such brakes should be simple to design, fabricate, and employ, while not adding to noise signature. I think a simple muzzle sleeve, with an angled end cut, would be adequately effective.
Greg
I think there are several kinds of brakes. One involves recoil reduction, another involves muzzle flip, and others involve both to some degree.
Brakes which endeavor to reduce recoil can only achieve part of their goal, and suffer a side-effect that involves additional noise signatures. I'm not a hig fan of such effects or of the brakes that produce tham. My concept of recoil reduction involves chambering choices and load efficiencies, The recoil reducing brakes, IMHO, simply approach the concept as a means of applying a band-aid to a questionable choice involving the employment of excessive force.
OTOH, I see methods aimed at reducing muzzle flip as beneficial, and favor the slant-face concept embodied in the AK-74 brake as a reasonable solution. Such brakes should be simple to design, fabricate, and employ, while not adding to noise signature. I think a simple muzzle sleeve, with an angled end cut, would be adequately effective.
Greg
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