Gunsmithing Mauser question

[Twisted300Win MAG]

I inherited a couple Mauser recently. One has a barrel that is toast. It’s a 1939 model 98 originally in 8x57mm. I’d like to rebarrel I’m unsure on what calibers this action can handle. I’d like to rebarrel it to a 338win mag. I was told by a local Smith the the wartime Mauser actions couldn’t handle higher pressure rounds. My question is what calibers would be suitable for this action other the the standard Mauser rounds. I already have one of each(6.5sweed, 7x57and 8x57).
P.S. it was produced April of 1939 if that helps. Technically during the inter war period.
Thanks
Donald

 

[sandwarrior]

It's strong enough to handle the .338 Win Mag. Up until late WWII, there is no issue with '98 action strength really. And, I've seen a lot of those out there, that haven't had problems. Cartridge choice has more to do with issues than that. The taper of Mauser cartridges doesn't allow for higher pressures due to bolt thrust. That doesn't mean they are unlimited, just load to SAAMI and you'll be okay. Or, use commercial ammo.

That's pretty much true of any action with a highly tapered case. An example would be a .22-250 Lots of taper and the case doesn't grab the walls of the chamber like a .308 based cartridge does. A hot load makes the rim soft and it melts back into the bolt face. Giving you sticky bolt lift. A straight case doesn't allow as much brass to flow backward. You will typically find tapered case body cartridges have lower pressure limitations that straighter body cases.

 

[Twisted300Win MAG]

Thank you

 

[OLD308]

FYI Lother Walter has long chambered contoured barrels for that from $250-450. In every conceivable caliber. I use them on I’ll my Mauser builds. Can’t help you on the pressure question. I only use the FN commercial Mauser actions.

 

[Son of Dorn]

Hi Donald. Like @sandwarrior said, the Mauser can take quite a variety of cartridges, but it's the length of that action that will restrict you, too. I'm going to try and work on a pre-war Gew 98 sporter in 9.3x62mm, which is a fairly powerful round but that'll fit the action without a problem (and actually would require no mods to a 8mm bolt since the cartridge rims are the same). If you want something heavier than the 8mm, have a look at some of the older cartridges from the 1890s and early 1900s and see what you like. Keep the receiver size in mind if you do; you don't wanna pick a cartridge that's too long for it.

 

[Son of Dorn]

FYI Lother Walter has long chambered contoured barrels for that from $250-450. In every conceivable caliber. I use them on I’ll my Mauser builds. Can’t help you on the pressure question. I only use the FN commercial Mauser actions.

I've heard some good stuff and bad stuff about the LW barrels but since they offer several that would fit my build, I figured I'd go with them. Good idea? Bad idea?

 

[Wannashootit]

Can be done- but...
Receiver condition is paramount. Barrel is "toast" you say, but why? Rusted out from non-use, or shot-out with 20,000 rounds?

Lug abutment wear should not exceed .002, and setback (more common on softer receivers, like the Spanish) is a deal-killer.
Anything can be fixed, but needing to heat-treat a single receiver isn't usually worth the expense. Mausers are case-hardened and the later pre-war receivers are supposedly more consistent in depth of the hardness but this is always of paramount importance.

If you're serious about pursuing it, first step is to have the smith pull the barrel, do an inspection of the receiver and bolt to be sure they are in satisfactory condition to use for a custom build.

 

[OLD308]

I've heard some good stuff and bad stuff about the LW barrels but since they offer several that would fit my build, I figured I'd go with them. Good idea? Bad idea?

Have done several in every conceivable caliber. From short action 308 base cases using CDI bottom metal to 30-06 based and belted magnums. A buddy even did one in 338LM. I won’t shoot it, but he does quit often. I have the PT&G Mauser turning kit with bolt face opening tip. I stick with the 30-06 and belted magnums mostly. Open up the bolt face and the feed ramp allows the belted magnums to work. Never had an issue with the barrels. They come long chambered so they are easy to fit to your action with no/go gages, and lath. No reamers needed.

The reason people don’t like LW barrels is due to the barrel material. It is a patented alloy that is far more wear resistant than what others use. Most gunsmiths now won’t chamber a LW barrel because they wear their reamers out faster. Hell on reamers great on barrel burner calibers. This is one of the reasons they long chamber, just cut the shoulder and your done. Hope this helps.

That reminds me, I’ve got a stack of Mauser actions and barrels I need to get back to working on.

 

[Son of Dorn]

Have done several in every conceivable caliber. From short action 308 base cases using CDI bottom metal to 30-06 based and belted magnums. A buddy even did one in 338LM. I won’t shoot it, but he does quit often. I have the PT&G Mauser turning kit with bolt face opening tip. I stick with the 30-06 and belted magnums mostly. Open up the bolt face and the feed ramp allows the belted magnums to work. Never had an issue with the barrels. They come long chambered so they are easy to fit to your action with no/go gages, and lath. No reamers needed.

The reason people don’t like LW barrels is due to the barrel material. It is a patented alloy that is far more wear resistant than what others use. Most gunsmiths now won’t chamber a LW barrel because they wear their reamers out faster. Hell on reamers great on barrel burner calibers. This is one of the reasons they long chamber, just cut the shoulder and your done. Hope this helps.

That reminds me, I’ve got a stack of Mauser actions and barrels I need to get back to working on.

Yeah, that's what I'd heard re: the barrel material. I'll have to see if my usual guy will work on them or not; the Mauser I wanna do needs a new barrel and I wanna put the original irons/sling swivel on the new one too along with the rebarrel job.

 

[Twisted300Win MAG]

I say the barrel is toast because the bore is pitted quite badly. It’s deceiving because the exterior of the barrel and actiom are in pretty good shape. This rifle is more of a sentimental piece then something I’m doing for value. My wife’s grandfather brought this rifle and several others back from Germany during WWII. I also have a stock he hand carved from a blank for this rifle as well. I do plan on hunting with it occasionally but not something I’ll be shooting g that often.

Thanks
Donald

 

[PBR DRIVER]

as a Gunsmith I will say, "Unaltered" Mauser 98's should be capable of handling any cartridge that will fit in the action.
That is the 98's not older actions like '96.
With original Mausers becoming harder to find and worth money, why not save the ones you have if original and build up a commercial 98 Mauser.

 

[Son of Dorn]

I kinda agree with @PBR DRIVER . If it's unaltered and a family war bring-back, it might be better to keep it the way it is. Even with a pitted barrel, it might shoot alright. In my case, I'm looking at an inexpensive sporter that would need work anyway, so I have few qualms about making it my own. Ditto with my postwar-refurb Zastava Kar98k; it's worth very little from a collector's standpoint and I bought it with the intent of using it for fun and reenacting, so I'm fine with putting an oldschool scope/mount on it to make a "sniper rifle" for that purpose. If it was an all-matching markings-intact German rifle, I'd be more hesitant. But at the same time, it's your rifle and it's up to you; do what you really want to do with it but think it over hard first.

 

[OLD308]

Dumoulin Mauser Action

www.e-sarcoinc.com

I have several of these I’ve done up. They need some TLC, but all have turned out to be great shooter/hunting rifles.