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New Member seeking advice on lightweight coyote rifle build

JCIII

Private
Minuteman
Dec 18, 2019
55
67
New member here, looking for advice on components for a lightweight coyote/predator rifle build. I’d like to get two budget options with a few specific criteria And some preferred components.

Definitely bolt action, numerous AR’s and want something different, lighter, simpler, and mainly semi auto just doesn’t help me in typical hunting situation.

Weight is of primary importance as the areas I hunt require a lot of walking between sets.

Small percentage of shots are 300 or less, typically 100-150 majority. I am really wanting to do 204 Ruger for many reasons so that’s going to be my caliber choice. I do not hand load any longer so will use factory exclusively. All that said, as Whelen said, only accurate rifles are interesting and would obviously like to maximize accuracy, cold bore shots specifically, odds of firing more than two rounds unless sitting at the bench are minuscule in my experience.

Specific stock preference: I prefer a more conventional stock as opposed to a technical chassis, I’d like a vertical grip stock with adjustable comb.

Looking for two budget windows, $2,000 and $3,000 optics not included.

I’m more lost on the $2K option: Cadex strike nuke Evo stock $600 (Ihave one on my Vudoo and absolutely love it), possibly KRG Bravo for cheaper option if needed, HIT trigger $230, ?? Brand light contour CM/Stainless barrel, ?? 700 clone action or ?

$3K: AG composites adjustable chalk branch stock $800 (got to handle one of these and fit finish and especially weight were great), Proof CF barrel $900 (seems as if these do really well on cold bore shots and of course weight savings is high), HIT trigger $230 (again have this on my Vudoo, awesome), ?? Brand/model 700 Clone action?

I know this is quite the open ended question but any input appreciated from experienced predator pursuers/shooters, no advice given will be discounted. Fire away.
 
For your cheaper options and weight being a concern, I'd definitely take the Bravo over the Strike Nuke. Cadex has them listed at 5lbs vs the 2.9lbs of the Bravo. A Tikka lite in a Bravo would probably be alright. Not sure if they offer it in 204 Ruger though.
 
You can save weight over a Proof Carbon by doing a slender steel barrel. In fact proof’s medium sporter would work great, and is basically equal to a Bartlein/Krieger #2. It can be had in a 20 cal 10 twist as well. I wouldn’t go any heavier than a 2 personally. Totally capable of surgical precision at your specified distances and short shot strings.

The bravo is a pretty light chassis, and is a good budget option. I’d recommend one of the Manners EH stocks. I like the eh2 or 4 personally. Probably save you a pound over the bravo. If memory serves the Manners weigh exactly 2 lbs with remmy bdl bottom metal.


Tikka makes a t3x lite compact in .204. $650 give or take, and would easily do what you need. You won’t feel bad when you drop it either. Weight is 6lb 3 oz.
 
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Northernjets, Tikka t3x lite does come in 204 and I did initially think about it and a KRG. My problem is I could do that combination for right around $1100 and I’m concerned that I may find myself settling and not getting the accuracy I want by not going up to the $2000 mark. I hate the thought of spending that and not being happy with end result and then having to liquidate for a loss to go up to $2-3k for a better weapon.

If I thought I could get a $600 Tikka to shoot like a rifle costing 2-3x as much, I’d do it in a heartbeat but I don’t think that’s a realistic expectation.
 
I honestly wouldn't be overly worried. The Tikkas generally don't let people down. They're a strong factory option in many people's minds, and not just here but other forums too. If you're not shy with barrel swaps, plenty of companies now make prefits for Tikkas now. Their tolerances are even tight enough for shouldered prefits. You'd still come out on top money wise with a semi custom Tikka. Check out the Tikka sticky and you'll see plenty of guys that have gone a similar route: buying discounted lites and rebarreling right off the bat.

I get how you feel though. If you feel that going with a custom rifle will be a more comfortable route, nothing wrong with that either. It'll open up your options too for features like swappable bolt heads, CRF, different bolt throws, etc. Just takes a little more research sometimes with parts compatibility.

I myself own an ARC Nucleus and two Tikkas. Aside from the unique features of the Nuke (that I very much enjoy), I personally don't feel held back at all when I shoot my Tikkas vs the Nuke, and certainly not if I were to rebarrel them down the road. Imho the barrel is the most important part for accuracy and consistency, and they're a consumable that can be swapped, just like tires on a vehicle. Once you hit a price point with those actions, you're pretty much paying for whatever features and feel that you want. Try and get out to finger fuck a few options and you'll have an easier time coming to a conclusion. Having a generous budget almost opens up too many options haha.
 
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Supersubes, that’s some good info right there. I love the bartlein on my Vudoo so that’s definitely peaked my interest. I obviously need to do some more research on weight comparisons between lighter contours and cf.

I reallllly like Manners but the AG composites I’ve seen are comparable in quality, very close in weight, and ⅔ the cost. My thought is I could use that additional money for a better action or barrel?

That’s two votes for the Tikka. You guys really think it can compete accuracy wise to a custom barreled action?

Thanks for the input guys.

And thanks for the welcome Liberator. Great site with lots of knowledge freely shared.

JC
 
I honestly wouldn't be overly worried. The Tikkas generally don't let people down. They're a strong factory option in many people's minds, and not just here but other forums too. If you're not shy with barrel swaps, plenty of companies now make prefits for Tikkas now. Their tolerances are even tight enough for shouldered prefits. You'd still come out on top money wise with a semi custom Tikka. Check out the Tikka sticky and you'll see plenty of guys that have gone a similar route: buying discounted lites and rebarreling right off the bat.

I get how you feel though. If you feel that going with a custom rifle will be a more comfortable route, nothing wrong with that either. It'll open up your options too for features like swappable bolt heads, CRF, different bolt throws, etc. Just takes a little more research sometimes with parts compatibility.

I myself own an ARC Nucleus and two Tikkas. Aside from the unique features of the Nuke (that I very much enjoy), I personally don't feel held back at all when I shoot my Tikkas vs the Nuke, and certainly not if I were to rebarrel them down the road. Imho the barrel is the most important part for accuracy and consistency, and they're a consumable that can be swapped, just like tires on a vehicle. Once you hit a price point with those actions, you're pretty much paying for whatever features and feel that you want. Try and get out to finger fuck a few options and you'll have an easier time coming to a conclusion. Having a generous budget almost opens up too many options haha.

Well that’s even more to think about. If I could build what I want for even less than my lower end budget, that would get me that much closer to my 2nd Vudoo. :unsure:
 
I think you can find $1500 Barrett Fieldcrafts in 1:8 .22-250. 5lb bare rifle. More "conventional" stock (not pistol gripped nor adj. combed though). "All weather" stainless/composite. Ammo's usually on my LGS shelves. Same point of aim inside 300yards. Good trigger out of the box. Never seen a bad group posted out of a Fieldcraft. Might be worth consideration.
 
Well that’s even more to think about. If I could build what I want for even less than my lower end budget, that would get me that much closer to my 2nd Vudoo. :unsure:

Especially if a 2nd Vudoo will be used more often than this rifle. Just some extra food for thought. Go big or go home isn't always a necessity. Even worst case scenario with a Tikka not quite up to your standards, it'll still be good enough for out to 300. Pocket the money saved, throw it at another Vudoo, rebarrel the Tikka down the road with another lightweight barrel (Proof makes shouldered prefits for them as well) of your choosing, Bob's your uncle.

I myself have been back and forth about selling one of my Tikkas and getting another Nuke, but for the cost of the action alone in Canada, I could re-barrel my CTR to a Proof or Hardy CF wrapped barrel and it'll shoot just as well. I'll lose out on the CRF, but that's more of a 'want' than a 'need'. Really comes down to what your budget is like, and where your gut feeling is at.
 
Sometimes you just gotta blow a bunch of money. BTDT. Recently. I get it.

Buuuuut, if Tikka built it in the caliber/twist I wanted, and I liked the stock and overall weight, and that left me an extra $1000 to spend on glass and a cool new coyote caller.......

I can't fathom that a Tikka wouldn't shoot well enough to deck a coyote at 300 yards, but I've never shot one with anything as small as a .204, so maybe I'm not fretting placement enough (though I sorta doubt it).

All that said, if you do blow a bunch of money, post pics, we'd all love to see it!!!!
 
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Maybe this will help with the .204 TikkaT3 accuracy concerns.

You have to click the “watch on YouTube” link

 
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FWIW I have an AG Adjustable Chalk Branch. I like it a lot, but there was some fitting required for the bottom metal to seat flush. (Half of the rear pillar didn’t get the last couple machining passes, ~0.5mm depth.) It was easy to fit quickly in the machine shop I have access to, but be prepared. Mine also came to 42oz without bottom metal. 28” Proof 6.5CM barrel, ARC Nucleus, Athlon Cronus BTR scope comes to 10.5lb (no bipod, TAB biathlon sling).

If I had to do it again, I would go with the XLR Element V3 Magnesium/Carbon. It’s $1000 and 28oz with adjustable cheek.

Barring that, the lightest cheek-adjustable true stock is the All-Composites A5 at $2050/24oz adjustable ($1800/16oz fixed) from PVA.
 
Just get a Tikka and be done with it already. Take the money saved, and drop it on some nice glass or a new predator caller...
 
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You guys are killing me...post looking for enablers and get nothing but logical, practical answers ?

Obviously some great input. If the consensus is I’m not going to do noticeably better at $2-3k than a tikka as a base barreled action, I’m going to give that a shot. Figure I’ll buy the t3x lite in 204, run 50 or so through it stock and and see what happens. If it can perform like I want, I’ll then decide if KRG or something a bit more upscale. Hard to understand why the tikka krg is $130 premium over the 700 models, for a bit more I could go to the cadex I love, though heavier. Decisions decisions.

thanks for all the answers guys, really appreciate all the detailed input from everyone. Just another testimony to how much free, yet highly valuable knowledge is here.

JC
 
FWIW my tikka in 223 tightened up quite a bit moving to a mcmillan stock with pillars and a free floated barrel. Stock was an adjustable game scout and may be up your fancy as when I put this gun together I had a plinker/coyote gun in mind. It was a good minute gun before the swap. Now it regularly does this
 

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You guys are killing me...post looking for enablers and get nothing but logical, practical answers ?

Obviously some great input. If the consensus is I’m not going to do noticeably better at $2-3k than a tikka as a base barreled action, I’m going to give that a shot. Figure I’ll buy the t3x lite in 204, run 50 or so through it stock and and see what happens. If it can perform like I want, I’ll then decide if KRG or something a bit more upscale. Hard to understand why the tikka krg is $130 premium over the 700 models, for a bit more I could go to the cadex I love, though heavier. Decisions decisions.

thanks for all the answers guys, really appreciate all the detailed input from everyone. Just another testimony to how much free, yet highly valuable knowledge is here.

JC
Tikka are more because the chassis requires the lug and labor to install. The lug for Tikkas is actually a slot, that marries to a lug in the stock or chassis.
 
Thanks Marine, for the premium though I’m pretty sure I’ll go with the Cadex for just a couple dollars more, to me a much better stock though heavier. Who knows, may spend the additional funds on something carbon.

Lawnboi, that’s whut um lookin for!