• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

mitutoyo digital caliper- Are they really worth it?

Using precision measuring tools takes practice and consistency.

++1 Yes, this guy totally gets it! The tool is only one component, the user of the tool is the other. Using calipers, micrometers, etc. is a learned skill that takes practice, practice, practice to achieve repeatable and accurate measurements. The tool does not measure the human does. I was also going to suggest investing in some gage blocks so that you could practice this skill using a known result.

When I was showing one of my kids I'd have them close their eyes and I'd hand them a block and have them measure by 'feel', did you get the right number? Practice until you do and practice until you can do it 'blind'.
 
I found a mitutoyo calipers as referenced ITT that's coolant proof as well as a Mic that is also coolant proof. To get them both it will cost me a little over $300, but I will have them forever so it's worth it. Especially considering what we spend on other gun stuff.

When I first got started into reloading, I just used a cheap caliper that I already had, and I've used precision instruments quite a bit, so I wanted to get a better one at some point anyway. If I get these two I should be in pretty good shape unless I go further down the rabbit hole than I plan to, which is always possible.

Thanks for the various info and comments. It's such a benefit to have real world users of things to provide info before buying stuff. This thread should be helpful to others in the future as well.

Here's what I'm getting.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20220215-161744_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20220215-161744_Chrome.jpg
    127.5 KB · Views: 66
  • Like
Reactions: gigamortis
0ABD7FCE-3354-4914-8E4B-F5B911FD14CA.jpeg
Im with the boomers. I will grab dial calipers every time over digital. Brown and Sharpe are my favorite. The mitutoyo digital set I have lasts easily 20x as long as the China made RCBS digital calipers. None of the info above matters if you dont have positive caliper retention though…
 
you will never regret buying quality , my 6 in Mitutoyo dial is over 50 yrs old , survived rough use and my 20 yr old digital Starrett has had hard use also, my engineer buddy uses a cheap one for reloading , (bench top gets other projects piled on it)but has name tools at his shop which come home when he wants to be sure
 
I have 2 digital calipers amd both are cheap sets. I only use the Franklin Armory one for loading because it's easier to slide with one hand and hold the bullet or case with the other.

I don't have an issue with paying for more expensive stuff if it's worth it, but is it? My cheap ones seem to measure pretty well honestly. Looks like you have to spend pretty serious money to get anything that is accurate beyond .001" , is there any reason to get one that goes beyond that?

Also, how much benefit would I really get out of a Mic? Thought about trying to get a set with caliper and mic?

Lastly, if anyone has the anvil base on their calipers, do you use it a lot and is it helpful in getting consistent measurments?

Thanks guys, look forward to input and the other threads I saw about this was really all recs vs the why.
Mitutoyo or Starrett are the equivalent of precision long range fire versus the hand grenade area result of the cheapy Franklin, HF, etc. Both have a place.........amateur versus pro. Only you can decide what your needs are. If one is asking that question, one probably won't understand the answer.
 
Yes, they are definitely worth it, much easier on the eyes.
That's one of the big improvements I was hoping for. Glad to hear that. My 2 sets are both hard to see sometimes. I really dont think there wil be any noticeable difference in the measurements, as I think both of my cheap ones measure pretty accurately. I've checked one of them against various precision equipment and gauges and they seem to measure accurately. I'm not as sure about repeatability but they have always been very repeatable for me measuring the same times over and over. It's more about ease of use and such like being able to see them and use them.

Kind of excited about the mic. I've used them many times in machine shops but never had one like this so it will be cool to be confident in the measurements and to be able to measure to a greater degree.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Farsight
Mitutoyo or Starrett are the equivalent of precision long range fire versus the hand grenade area result of the cheapy Franklin, HF, etc. Both have a place.........amateur versus pro. Only you can decide what your needs are. If one is asking that question, one probably won't understand the answer.
😆
 
I bought a Starrett, less expensive than the Mitutoyo, but great precision and repeatability. I'd had cheap calipers but for precision reloading, they didn't "measure up."
 
I bought a Starrett, less expensive than the Mitutoyo, but great precision and repeatability. I'd had cheap calipers but for precision reloading, they didn't "measure up."
I thought about that, but I have heard that they aren't made here anymore? I have quite a bit of precision squares and such, engineering equipment ect and some of it is old Sterrett made, and it's excellent quality, but it was also made in the 50's I think so.... I went with Mitu since I just wasn't sure about new Sterrett and couldn't hold them in my hand to see.
 
Once you go through a couple cheap ones you will appreciate a good set. I'm a frugal poor and even I have a mitatoyo.
I have been through one cheap set and I think my battery on one set is about to quit, that's what brought this whole thing on. I had always planned on getting a good set, but my others did work ok, so it was hard for me to justify it since I do have 2 working sets, but like I said initially, " are they worth it?" , and the answer has been a resounding YES.

Had I not checked my cheap ones against some excellent guage blocks and pins and other items used in high precision machining, I likely would have gotten a good set quite a while ago. I also questioned how well they would hold their calibration over time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2aBaC̶a̶
I have been through one cheap set and I think my battery on one set is about to quit, that's what brought this whole thing on. I had always planned on getting a good set, but my others did work ok, so it was hard for me to justify it since I do have 2 working sets, but like I said initially, " are they worth it?" , and the answer has been a resounding YES.

Had I not checked my cheap ones against some excellent guage blocks and pins and other items used in high precision machining, I likely would have gotten a good set quite a while ago. I also questioned how well they would hold their calibration over time.
A good 1-2-3 block is a great item to have to test but to also gain the 'feel' for how to use calipers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Farsight
Don't particularly like the anvils base because I want to know if there is a high spot on my case head which shows up when spinning it.
 
Guess I will be getting a new set of calipers. Not sure about the mic yet
My career involved partially involved making both prototype and production high precision gizmos and Mitutoyo was the go-to for all aspects of hand-held quality control measurements. When I retired, one of my friends presented me with a 70th Limited Anniversary Set including both calipers and micrometer. Been using them ever since in my reloading and home gunsmithing endeavors. Smooth, love 'em both. If you look for this set, be careful who/where you buy from as I believe there were only 70 sets made. Buy once, cry once.
 
Don't particularly like the anvils base because I want to know if there is a high spot on my case head which shows up when spinning it.
Yeah, I know what you mean. The only time I've had any question about that is with 6mm BTO measurements. I normally have a good feel and touch and a consistent one for taking that measurement and spinning the case to achieve center and consistency, but I've found it more difficult with the 6mm. It hasn't been a problem just different and not as easy to spin and keep a consistent measurment. I wondered if a base would help with that since that bullet is so thin and long, it wants to wobble more in the comp. I wasn't sure that the Hornady base would be good enough and flat enough to help though and may just introduce a thou or two variation, which of course would render it less than helpful
 
I'm with the boomers on going dial calipers. I've been using the same 8" Mitutoyo dial calipers at work for over twenty years and they still work great.

I bought a 6" version for reloading.
 
A Mitutoyo caliper will never be as cheap as it is right now. Consider it an investment. Taken care of, it will probably outlast you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ravenworks
A Mitutoyo caliper will never be as cheap as it is right now. Consider it an investment. Taken care of, it will probably outlast you.
I have found that certain Mitutoyo calipers bought on Amazon to be knock offs...I do have a Starrett that I bought in the 80s and still works fine and made in U.S.A.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1631.jpg
    IMG_1631.jpg
    942.4 KB · Views: 69
505-713 baby! Carbide tipped jaws. TiN coated slide. .100”/Rev Dial.
 
  • Like
Reactions: johnnyvw
505-713 baby! Carbide tipped jaws. TiN coated slide. .100”/Rev Dial.
Now your talking that is the best and my Starrett is in the same league. It is hard to find calipers that . Are not made in China. That pair of Mitutoto bell caliper I paid over 400 but it is choices. And you have one of the best.
 
My 3 sets I use for loading, 2 Starrett's, one Mitutoyo, being I buy Whidden case gauges to measure bumps, the Mitutoyo doesn't see much use. Not a huge fan of the large 4th place number either. Another reason, because of a lack of preparedness, I use the Starrett digi for seating bullets is I always have 2032 batteries on hand.

calipers.jpg
 
My 3 sets I use for loading, 2 Starrett's, one Mitutoyo, being I buy Whidden case gauges to measure bumps, the Mitutoyo doesn't see much use. Not a huge fan of the large 4th place number either. Another reason, because of a lack of preparedness, I use the Starrett digi for seating bullets is I always have 2032 batteries on hand.

View attachment 7810256
This is my next one https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/798b-6~150 Iam getting away from mitutoyo calipers but I do like some of there other things checking head expansion and case wall thickness....all digital
 
I finally made the switch to the mitutoyo calipers and am glad i did. With my old $40 amazon caliper, i was never confident in the readings. With Mitutoyo, i'm confident to the .0000. IMO, They are worth the money.
 
This is my next one https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/798b-6~150 Iam getting away from mitutoyo calipers but I do like some of there other things checking head expansion and case wall thickness....all digital
Nice set, when I bought my Starrett digis, rumor was jaws were softer than comparable price models, I didn't figure I would be handling that hard of material loading ammo, I guess mine have had a comparator on them full time since new.
Look to MSC Industrial for better pricing.
 
Nice set, when I bought my Starrett digis, rumor was jaws were softer than comparable price models, I didn't figure I would be handling that hard of material loading ammo, I guess mine have had a comparator on them full time since new.
Look to MSC Industrial for better pricing.
I have amazon prime and they are 270 in my basket I have so meany tools working on diesel engines and my boat and I do buy the best and been reloading for over 40 years and this information was not out there then or the internet. And Iam amassed and the good information on this site that is why I joined. I have a lot of rifles all custom and load all my own ammo some I have to because of tight necks. But my choice is Starrett .
 
  • Like
Reactions: Milo 2.5
I finally made the switch to the mitutoyo calipers and am glad i did. With my old $40 amazon caliper, i was never confident in the readings. With Mitutoyo, i'm confident to the .0000. IMO, They are worth the money.
Don’t be. A caliper is accurate to +/-.002”. Yours will have a calibration certificate and will list its error at specific sizes. In matching, a caliper is a course measuring instrument.
 
Are the Starrett dial calipers made in China any good?

Or would you buy the mitutoyo dial calipers?
 
Last edited:
Are the Starrett dial calipers made in China any good?

Or would you buy the mitutoyo dial calipers?
If it were I it would be Starrett but I do think most all are made in China but it dose not say China in details it says Country of Origin. And I have both my Mitutoyo one is 500-197-30 but I perfur the Starrett and this is my next one.





Product details​


  • Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No
  • Product Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 10 x 3.7 x 1.2 inches; 1 Pounds
  • Item model number ‏ : ‎ 798B-6/150
  • Batteries ‏ : ‎ 1 Lithium Metal batteries required. (included)
  • Date First Available ‏ : ‎ August 6, 2010
  • Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ Starrett
  • ASIN ‏ : ‎ B003YL3A6I
  • Country of Origin ‏ : ‎ USA
  • Domestic Shipping: Item can be shipped within U.S.
  • International Shipping: This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More

 
i have 3 different sets, two budget sets and 1 mitutoyo all in the same drawer. i just cannot see why one wouldn't invest in quality measuring tools for this application. I always look at what a professional uses when it comes to tools and i move that direction. im going to spend the money for a couple more mitutoyos to keep my headspace gauges on so i dont have to swap stuff around. When you use good calipers directly alongside budget calipers you notice a difference, thats why the others dont get picked up unless i want to take some non critical dimensions.
 
i have 3 different sets, two budget sets and 1 mitutoyo all in the same drawer. i just cannot see why one wouldn't invest in quality measuring tools for this application. I always look at what a professional uses when it comes to tools and i move that direction. im going to spend the money for a couple more mitutoyos to keep my headspace gauges on so i dont have to swap stuff around. When you use good calipers directly alongside budget calipers you notice a difference, thats why the others dont get picked up unless i want to take some non critical dimensions.
You do have a point the fact is I work on diesel engines majoring them and you need the best tools for that but thy work well on reloading too.
There is nothing wrong with the cheaper ones.
 
Well they have arrived! Got my new mitutoyo calipers and micrometer yesterday evening boys.... They sure are nice. Haven't really used them to load yet, but I did measure the difference in sized brass, (elliptical vs bushing) and got different results than with my cheap calipers. The mitu results make sense but the cheap caliper results did not. The mitu are just easier to use too, in how they slide, how they are balanced on each side of the bar, ect.... Glad I got em. Thanks for the input!
 
Last edited:
You won't ever regret buying quality.
Far as digital vs "manual", I've got both- and a "hybrid" (I guess) Starrett mechanical/digital depth mike.
I also own a Shars digital mike, and double-checked every measurement with a manual for a long time before I gained confidence to rely on it (always spot on).

With calipers and mikes, be sure to periodically close the jaws lightly on a piece of paper and slide the paper through the jaws.
You'd be surprised that you can build up a film of crud that can affect your measurements.
 
You won't ever regret buying quality.
Far as digital vs "manual", I've got both- and a "hybrid" (I guess) Starrett mechanical/digital depth mike.
I also own a Shars digital mike, and double-checked every measurement with a manual for a long time before I gained confidence to rely on it (always spot on).

With calipers and mikes, be sure to periodically close the jaws lightly on a piece of paper and slide the paper through the jaws.
You'd be surprised that you can build up a film of crud that can affect your measurements.
That's a good tip. The mic has carbide tips on each side and is pretty dang impressive.... the calipers are too but the mic measures to such a tiny degree.

I have a question though, and it may require me to provide a pic when I get home. The hash marks for zero line up when I tighten it enough to do so, but it's pretty tight at that point.. it seems like it's so tight that setting that as the zero point isn't actually correct, but if I zero it at a point where the mic is fully closed but not very tight, the lines don't line up. I don't really need the lines to line up I guess but, how do you do this with you digital mic? Or anyone else
 
The is a small spanner included to rotate the barrel to line up your zero when appropriately using the ratchet or friction thimble.
 
The is a small spanner included to rotate the barrel to line up your zero when appropriately using the ratchet or friction thimble.
Ok, yeah I know what you're talking about. I've never used a digital mic and wasn't sure about that. Thanks
 
Get one with roller bearing drawer slides.
In 5 years you'll be sorry if you didn't.
Friction slides suck, bad.
I am sure there are good ball-bearing boxes out there, but these friction slides on mine have been working fine for 30+ years. Does Kennedy make a ball-bearing slide Machinists’ Chest, what's the new hotness?
 

Attachments

  • Friction slide 30y.jpg
    Friction slide 30y.jpg
    318.5 KB · Views: 38
  • Mitsu.jpg
    Mitsu.jpg
    463.2 KB · Views: 46
I do love my Brown & Sharpes but my eyes like the Mitutoyo digitals.
 

Attachments

  • B and S.jpg
    B and S.jpg
    538.8 KB · Views: 35
Well they have arrived! Got my new mitutoyo calipers and micrometer yesterday evening boys.... They sure are nice. Haven't really used them to load yet, but I did measure the difference in sized brass, (elliptical vs bushing) and got different results than with my cheap calipers. The mitu results make sense but the cheap caliper results did not. The mitu are just easier to use too, in how they slide, how they are balanced on each side of the bar, ect.... Glad I got em. Thanks for the input!
The difference between a quality precision tool and a cheap "Harbor Freight" type tool is like night and day. A quality precision tool is delivered with a certification of accuracy while you won't have a clue as to what you have in accuracy with a cheap tool. There is no way you can assess a difference of .002" between tools without extremely accurate validation equipment.

Understand that accuracy certifications have a life span, and how you use a precision tool impacts accuracy. Should you require absolute precision plan on sending your precision tools out periodically for re-certification. Most never will but anyone that absolutely has to work within close tolerances for military and aerospace work has to. I don't suppose having a cartridge blow up in a chamber due to bad sizing is any less important than keeping an airplane engine running. Both require extreme tolerance accuracy
 
The difference between a quality precision tool and a cheap "Harbor Freight" type tool is like night and day. A quality precision tool is delivered with a certification of accuracy while you won't have a clue as to what you have in accuracy with a cheap tool. There is no way you can assess a difference of .002" between tools without extremely accurate validation equipment.

Understand that accuracy certifications have a life span, and how you use a precision tool impacts accuracy. Should you require absolute precision plan on sending your precision tools out periodically for re-certification. Most never will but anyone that absolutely has to work within close tolerances for military and aerospace work has to. I don't suppose having a cartridge blow up in a chamber due to bad sizing is any less important than keeping an airplane engine running. Both require extreme tolerance accuracy

That isn't exactly true. Mitutoyo offers accuracy certificates for an additional charge. Their run of the mill dial calipers don't come with an accuracy certificate All of their tools include a traceability certificate. Calibration blocks are extra.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ravenworks
The difference between a quality precision tool and a cheap "Harbor Freight" type tool is like night and day. A quality precision tool is delivered with a certification of accuracy while you won't have a clue as to what you have in accuracy with a cheap tool. There is no way you can assess a difference of .002" between tools without extremely accurate validation equipment.

Understand that accuracy certifications have a life span, and how you use a precision tool impacts accuracy. Should you require absolute precision plan on sending your precision tools out periodically for re-certification. Most never will but anyone that absolutely has to work within close tolerances for military and aerospace work has to. I don't suppose having a cartridge blow up in a chamber due to bad sizing is any less important than keeping an airplane engine running. Both require extreme tolerance accuracy
I have yet to see in reloading why we need pinpoint numbers, other than case neck thickness if turning, maybe others. So if calipers for the most part have +- .001" accuracy, and your caliper is off by .001" either side inherently, those numbers are still yours, that brass is for that chamber, your seat depth is your seat depth. If all the things we measure stay the same from firing to sizing-seating, I see no problem.
I am not telling anyone to not buy a decent caliper, I seem to enjoy throwing coin at things.
But I have a pair of calipers I bought at cabelas in 1996 for 60 bucks, that bounced off a concrete floor and locked up, taken apart by me and was able to get operational again, that read the exact same as a set of Mitutoyo's that I know I paid over 220 for.
Would I trust the POS set from cabelas to reload with, I sure would, but like all of us, I don't have to. My top shelf measuring tools sit directly underneath my 3K coffee machine which sits beside my with all upgrades 1500 buck powder system.
 
I have yet to see in reloading why we need pinpoint numbers, other than case neck thickness if turning, maybe others. So if calipers for the most part have +- .001" accuracy, and your caliper is off by .001" either side inherently, those numbers are still yours, that brass is for that chamber, your seat depth is your seat depth. If all the things we measure stay the same from firing to sizing-seating, I see no problem.
I am not telling anyone to not buy a decent caliper, I seem to enjoy throwing coin at things.
But I have a pair of calipers I bought at cabelas in 1996 for 60 bucks, that bounced off a concrete floor and locked up, taken apart by me and was able to get operational again, that read the exact same as a set of Mitutoyo's that I know I paid over 220 for.
Would I trust the POS set from cabelas to reload with, I sure would, but like all of us, I don't have to. My top shelf measuring tools sit directly underneath my 3K coffee machine which sits beside my with all upgrades 1500 buck powder system.
I would say by once cry once there is nothing wrong with mitutoyos I have both starrett witch I prefer...we are talking about .0001 dies are not that precise and we are not either...there are so many thingings involved...what Iam saying is powder seating depth the caliber action barrel...just get a caliper that fits you budget.
 
I would say by once cry once there is nothing wrong with mitutoyos I have both starrett witch I prefer...we are talking about .0001 dies are not that precise and we are not either...there are so many thingings involved...what Iam saying is powder seating depth the caliber action barrel...just get a caliper that fits you budget.
I like my Starrett digis better too, but right after I typed that wisdom, I was on MSC Direct and have set of Mitu's coming, .0005" resolution, so hopefully the 4th number will be small.
All I really said in that post was we tend to overthink this shit.