• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

MK12 MOD-0 LETS SEE EM!

Man, after a week on barfcom reading the mk12 thread, and looking this one over, several of these pics seem oddly familiar!

that's weird

IMG_0181.jpg


That's funny
I
I
I
I
v
 
Last edited:
Here's mine. Built it over the winter.
9013285690_17f495f3b9_c.jpg


Rainier Arms matched upper and lower
Douglas SS DMR barrel from Fulton (Navy overrun).
VLTOR EMod
Harris bi-pod
Vortex 5-15X from Midway w/ Mildot.
AMD 20 MOA mount.
 
I'm a transplant from barfcom, although I feel more at home on m4c. Hope to become a contributing member here.

This isn't a true mod 0 clone, more inspired.

10DC5208-1D6A-48C2-B1DF-4062560DDD9D-4452-00000560757294A1_zps7b4c1966.jpg


BCM 16" SS410 midlength barrel
AAC SDN6
Trijicon TR20

All else is pretty much kosher. Or close enough.
 
For the love of god, skip the ARMS mounts. Total pieces of shit. If your not going for 100% correct (which most of you arent by the looks) then get a mount that works.


Here is my old MK12 MOD 2 I build back in 2005. Out of all the guns I sold, I regret getting rid of this one the most.



Oh

Noveske SPR Middy Barrel built on a LMT upper with BCG
Larue 13.2
GG&G Fire scout 20MOA riser
Early Gieselle High Speed Trigger
KNS Pins (G trigger came with bad pins)
Global Tactical Lower
SOMPOD Kit
Surefire 6P weapon light
Harris in a Larue QD
IOR 2-12x32 35MM MP8 (REALLY miss this scope)
TPS 35MM Low Rings.
Vortex FH


And a SHHEEEEEEET load of blackhill 75gr HPBT back when CMP was selling cases of it for like $250 bucks.
 
Last edited:
What makes the arms rings total pieces of shit? In generally curious as this is the first set I've owned having previously only had LaRue mounts, maybe 12 of them or more if you count all the acog mounts I've owned, and a few ADM mounts. Do they not hold zero, do they break, do they have defects or drawbacks to using them vs another mount?
 
What makes the arms rings total pieces of shit? In generally curious as this is the first set I've owned having previously only had LaRue mounts, maybe 12 of them or more if you count all the acog mounts I've owned, and a few ADM mounts. Do they not hold zero, do they break, do they have defects or drawbacks to using them vs another mount?

You must be new to the shooting world. No offense.

Yes there was a time, when arms was the only game in town. Before Larue/ADM, anyone bassicaly. They made the only QD mounts and one of the only rail systems for AR's. Look at early pic threads from like 2000-2002 and you will see nothing but arms shit everywhere. Their terrible quality and weak mounts are what made people like LARUE start their designs and proppelled them to where they are.

Arms mounts break, levers are weak, they do not even come close to RTZ and Dick Swan is a first class piece of shit. He went on to sue the other companies, claiming he invented the QD mount. Despite the fact there are naval patents going back to the 1930's for QD mounts to boresight large guns.

Early MK12 used what was COTS and arms was established. You know after a new product comes out it takes years to saturate and for people to realize its a better product. People are set in their ways and it takes a while for them to realize the change.
I sometimes think that ARMS 22 QD rings are the only thing keeping the doors open over there. Its the only product they make that even has a purpose of being purchased (for clones, along with their SWAN rail).
 
Last edited:
Not a really a Mk12, just a DPMS mk12 with an AAC SPR-M4 and Mk4 3.5-10, but I absolutely love this rifle, it's ragged hole accurate and I've range steel at 600 yards and beyond with 77grn black hills.

IMAG0686.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0686_zpsc6e2236c.jpg
    IMAG0686_zpsc6e2236c.jpg
    97.5 KB · Views: 29
Not a mod 0 but it is all I have :) Just got it done tonight.


UPPER - High Caliber Sales upper, kac sights, harris bipod w/ arms 32 qd mount, Leupold TS-30 A2 scope (2.5-8x36 Illum. TMR) in arms 22H rings

LOWER - Colt M4 lower, geissele ssa trigger, lmt sopmod stock, ergo grip


Mow I just gotta find some free time to shoot her and zero the scope :) .....



IMG_7336_zps1a5e800f.jpg


IMG_7264_zps6f88f3db.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here are a few photos of my Mk12 Mod 0.

Mk12 Mod 0 SPR
18" SS Douglas Barrel from Compass Lake.
(SPR contour with AMU Chamber & Matched bolt)
Bravo Company BCG
Nightforce 2.5-10x32 Mil/Mil with Zero Stop
PRI Gen 2 Carbon hand guard
PRI Gas Block/Front folding sight
PRI Gasbuster charging handle
Ops Inc Muzzle brake and collar
Noveske N4 Lower
Geiselle SSA-E trigger
Colt A2 Stock
Harris 6-9 bipod BR-S
Pod Lock
ARMS #32 QD bipod mount
ARMS Swan Sleeve
ARMS #17l BUIS
ARMS #22 Rings







 

Attachments

  • photo(10).jpg
    photo(10).jpg
    90.7 KB · Views: 38
  • photo(11).jpg
    photo(11).jpg
    92.4 KB · Views: 28
  • photo(12).jpg
    photo(12).jpg
    88.3 KB · Views: 31
  • photo(9).jpg
    photo(9).jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 29
Last edited:
You must be new to the shooting world. No offense.

Yes there was a time, when arms was the only game in town. Before Larue/ADM, anyone bassicaly. They made the only QD mounts and one of the only rail systems for AR's. Look at early pic threads from like 2000-2002 and you will see nothing but arms shit everywhere. Their terrible quality and weak mounts are what made people like LARUE start their designs and proppelled them to where they are.

Arms mounts break, levers are weak, they do not even come close to RTZ and Dick Swan is a first class piece of shit. He went on to sue the other companies, claiming he invented the QD mount. Despite the fact there are naval patents going back to the 1930's for QD mounts to boresight large guns.

Early MK12 used what was COTS and arms was established. You know after a new product comes out it takes years to saturate and for people to realize its a better product. People are set in their ways and it takes a while for them to realize the change.
I sometimes think that ARMS 22 QD rings are the only thing keeping the doors open over there. Its the only product they make that even has a purpose of being purchased (for clones, along with their SWAN rail).

Good to know on the rings. I've almost got my Mod 0 done. Waiting on a damn form 4 for the OPS 12th. And still need to get rings and an NF scope. I think I will go with NF rings, not mil spec, but neither is the hogue grip or Gieselle SSA-E trigger.
 
I have a few sets of the arms rings. Now granted I'm not running around the boonies shooting at people. Mostly I'm at our farm shooting wild hogs or shooting with my friends. So... take that for what it's worth. But my arms rings work fine, haven't ever broken, or given me issues with return to zero. For the average joe, (not gi joe) they are great and won't give you any issues. Again just my personal experience, but it's worth more to me than the crud I read saying they suck.
 
No issues with the A.R.M.S #22 rings on my rifle. I'm using the newer ones with the LII levers. I've had the scope on and off the rifle probably 30-40 times and have never lost zero, maybe I'm not doing it right...... I actually prefer the ARMS method of locking up over LaRue's system due to the steel lash pad between the levers cam surface and the receiver rail. The LaRue just cams directly into the side of the aluminum receiver.
 
Reviving an old thread. Finally able to pick up my suppressor today after 9.5 months. Now I just need a Nightforce.
pube6a5e.jpg
 
Nope, but it was shot wide open with a Canon 5D MK II with a 50mm 1.4 lens.

I don't use my camera nearly as much as I should, but every time I do I'm reminded why I keep it. Even when I half-ass it like above.
 
I still can't seem to get the recipe right. Every time I try for a Mod 0 build, I end up doing it wrong. This one ended up about 3.5" short, and chambered in 300 Blackout.... Weird, right?

9667388271_ee2d02e331_c.jpg
 
I still can't seem to get the recipe right. Every time I try for a Mod 0 build, I end up doing it wrong. This one ended up about 3.5" short, and chambered in 300 Blackout.... Weird, right?

9667388271_ee2d02e331_c.jpg

That looks awesome. I just ordered a 16" barrel to use with my suppressor. I've been thinking about going with a PRI tube. I dig your rifles color too.
 
That looks awesome. I just ordered a 16" barrel to use with my suppressor. I've been thinking about going with a PRI tube. I dig your rifles color too.

Thanks :) The color is a mix of Burnt Bronze and Armor Black Cerakote. The ratio was 10:3 Bronze-Black. It took a while to find a good ratio that didn't end up looking like either gunmetal gray, or just like Burnt Bronze. I really like the PRI tubes. Light, rigid, easy to install and they don't get too hot to handle from barrel heat or from being out in the sun. They are a bit spendy though. I saved some money by going with the most basic model they had, with no pre-drilled holes. With the 14.5" barrel with pinned/welded brake, the suppressor I eventually plan on getting for this one should tuck inside the handguard about an inch. I'm using a Spikes Tactical alignment collar, which needed a .700" diameter X 1.00" inch long step turned at the muzzle to get the right spacing between the mounting threads and the shoulder on the collar.

With a 16" or shorter barrel, the front sight will need to be mounted on the free float rail if you intend on running an Ops can. I thought this through for a while before I finally decided to hack off about 3" from the front of the top rail to make room for a folding front sight. I contoured the cut area to fit up closely with the hood of the front sight. I'm running a cheap AIM Sports front sight, but the cutout should also work with either a Troy or PRI HK style front sight as well. FWIW, the AIM sight is actually pretty decent, although a bit clunky looking:

9667389865_d41b8d826f_c.jpg


9667389213_98a1ec0690_c.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply FMJBT...The color is sweet. My MOD1 clone is pictured a couple spots above yours. It's a little bit bastardized right now, but I'm going to make it closer to the real thing. I bought a Noveske gen 1 lower I'm going to switch out with the gen 2 that's on it now. I'm also going to switch out the PRS to a standard fixed stock. I guess none of the authenticity stuff really matters, but a long time ago I got to shoot one with some real Navy SEALs. I've wanted one ever since then and figured the HCS upper would be a good start. I just got my suppressor approved a couple weeks ago, and now I'm really motivated to get things the way I want them. Hopefully I'll be able to find the correct NF for it someday, but right now I can't justify the prices they're going for. The S&B will have to keep doing double duty.

Enough about my rifle. I really like how you painted all the metal parts and left the stock and hand guard black. You also did a real nice job with that rail machining. I want to build a lightweight more carbine style rifle to use with my suppressor. I have been buying parts as I could afford them/find them since Christmas. Have the lower all finished with another Geissele and Vltor emod. Also have Vltor upper, Ops inc brake/collar, PRI gasbuster and the bolt. Need to get a barrel. I have two on order from HCS and a place called Bison Armory. Really hope the Bison barrel doesn't suck. Never heard of them, but didn't find any bad reviews. I was thinking of the PRI forearm. I don't think I'll do the SWAN rail. Not really interested in making a true MOD0 clone. Just something simple....Like throw a Aimpoint micro on top and call it a day. I never thought of painting it like you did. I would like one that is a little different than just black for once. Thanks again, Dan


Thanks :) The color is a mix of Burnt Bronze and Armor Black Cerakote. The ratio was 10:3 Bronze-Black. It took a while to find a good ratio that didn't end up looking like either gunmetal gray, or just like Burnt Bronze. I really like the PRI tubes. Light, rigid, easy to install and they don't get too hot to handle from barrel heat or from being out in the sun. They are a bit spendy though. I saved some money by going with the most basic model they had, with no pre-drilled holes. With the 14.5" barrel with pinned/welded brake, the suppressor I eventually plan on getting for this one should tuck inside the handguard about an inch. I'm using a Spikes Tactical alignment collar, which needed a .700" diameter X 1.00" inch long step turned at the muzzle to get the right spacing between the mounting threads and the shoulder on the collar.

With a 16" or shorter barrel, the front sight will need to be mounted on the free float rail if you intend on running an Ops can. I thought this through for a while before I finally decided to hack off about 3" from the front of the top rail to make room for a folding front sight. I contoured the cut area to fit up closely with the hood of the front sight. I'm running a cheap AIM Sports front sight, but the cutout should also work with either a Troy or PRI HK style front sight as well. FWIW, the AIM sight is actually pretty decent, although a bit clunky looking:
 
Just sayin

<a href="http://s767.photobucket.com/user/jayjaypunisher/media/Snapbucket/48CA0A71_zps89f52d0a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx319/jayjaypunisher/Snapbucket/48CA0A71_zps89f52d0a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 48CA0A71_zps89f52d0a.jpg"/></a>
 
Thanks :) The color is a mix of Burnt Bronze and Armor Black Cerakote. The ratio was 10:3 Bronze-Black. It took a while to find a good ratio that didn't end up looking like either gunmetal gray, or just like Burnt Bronze. I really like the PRI tubes. Light, rigid, easy to install and they don't get too hot to handle from barrel heat or from being out in the sun. They are a bit spendy though. I saved some money by going with the most basic model they had, with no pre-drilled holes. With the 14.5" barrel with pinned/welded brake, the suppressor I eventually plan on getting for this one should tuck inside the handguard about an inch. I'm using a Spikes Tactical alignment collar, which needed a .700" diameter X 1.00" inch long step turned at the muzzle to get the right spacing between the mounting threads and the shoulder on the collar.

With a 16" or shorter barrel, the front sight will need to be mounted on the free float rail if you intend on running an Ops can. I thought this through for a while before I finally decided to hack off about 3" from the front of the top rail to make room for a folding front sight. I contoured the cut area to fit up closely with the hood of the front sight. I'm running a cheap AIM Sports front sight, but the cutout should also work with either a Troy or PRI HK style front sight as well. FWIW, the AIM sight is actually pretty decent, although a bit clunky looking:

9667389865_d41b8d826f_c.jpg


9667389213_98a1ec0690_c.jpg

Nice work! That's a great looking rifle.
 
Here is Mine. She wants to join the party!!

Here is mine it is pretty authentic

HCS Barrel and upper
PSA Lower
KAC 2 stage trigger
Nightforce Recon Nav Spec scope
I went with rings off My MK 11 Mod 0


What recoil springs are you guys with cans running?
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0080.jpg
    DSCF0080.jpg
    86.3 KB · Views: 41
No issues with the A.R.M.S #22 rings on my rifle. I'm using the newer ones with the LII levers. I've had the scope on and off the rifle probably 30-40 times and have never lost zero, maybe I'm not doing it right...... I actually prefer the ARMS method of locking up over LaRue's system due to the steel lash pad between the levers cam surface and the receiver rail. The LaRue just cams directly into the side of the aluminum receiver.

I have several different A.R.M.S. mounts and have never had an issue with any... As far as QD goes, A.R.M.S. and American Defense are my favorites. I don't see how LaRue's mounts are so popular or how somebody can see them being better than A.R.M.S. or ADM, which have a sacrificial steel cam that presses into a rail instead of a hardened steel cam grinding on aluminum every time you attach/detach.
 
Here's my stab at one... I was going for a modern approach but still staying close to OG. No doubt I'll be adding the OPS 12th (looks weird without it) and better glass when I finish some other projects, but until then this is how she sits.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7104.jpg
    IMG_7104.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 61
  • IMG_7043.jpg
    IMG_7043.jpg
    100.3 KB · Views: 57
Just assembled my mod 0 after work today. Already had the M4-2000 so I stuck with it instead of the 12th Model. Now just waiting for a Mark 4 LR/T and to re-paint it. I can't wait to shoot it!

 
Last edited:
a3aqy7aj.jpg


Here is mine, not a 100% clone, but good enough for my tatste.
-PRI upper
-PSA lower
- RRA varmint trigger
- leupold mark 4 3.5-10x40 m3

She shoots to PRI's 1moa standard. I have only 50 rounds of 77gr factory and hand loads down range at this point, but perhaps she will tighten up when I get a few more down the tube. If not, I'm ok with 1moa. Will be taking it out this next weekend to stretch her legs and see how the rifle/me will do at 700+.
 
Here is mine it is pretty authentic

HCS Barrel and upper
PSA Lower
KAC 2 stage trigger
Nightforce Recon Nav Spec scope
I went with rings off My MK 11 Mod 0


What recoil springs are you guys with cans running?

Sweet. When you say NF Nav Spec scope, what do you mean? As in, what model NF is it? And is that the only Nightforce that they run? If not, what all Nightforces are available to those guys?

Lonestar, no doubt sir, I agree completely it just does not look complete without the can.

BTW, to everybody with suppressed Mk. 12s, does it run quite a bit dirtier with the can vs without?

Also, to anyone who has one, about what could one expect with a Colt 6920 lower and HCS Mod 0 upper as far as accuracy with handloads and/or BH 77gr SMK? And with max loads, what could I expect for velocity with 77gr SMKs as well as 80gr Bergers?

Thanks yall. Lets keep this thing alive.
 
Here is my copy/clone, still waiting for my can, it went pending in July, bought from HCS and I agree the can just sets the rifle off
OPS inc collar and brake
Contract barrel from Monte (Centurion)
ADCO milled the flats on the barrel for the set screw PRI flip up front sight
Pri Gen iii forearm black
ARMS #38 SPR PEQ-2-3 swan sleeve rail
Colt Upper
Youngs Manfacturing NM carrier
PRI M84 Gas Buster charging handle
NXS 2.5-10x24, not NAV SPEC, but Mil-dot, moa, zero stop, got the extra NV settings, in ARMS 22 mediums
Changed out ARMS 40 for a 40L, so I could run the scope further back
Lower is a very old RRA, four digit serial number bought in 96 or 97,
Geissele SSA-E
BAD lever
LMT sopmod with SAPR

 
Last edited:
SI defense super tight matched upper and lower receivers.
Magpul Miad grip
Magpul ACS mil-spec stock
Geissele 2 stage trigger
Mil-spec bolt and carrier
Double star charging handle
PRI Free float handguard
PRI flip up front sight/gas block
Hand lapped stainless steel 19″ barrel
Threaded 1/2×28 with threaded cap.
Color is Patriot Brown






<a href="http://s189.photobucket.com/user/Rwsgunsmithing/media/mk12mod0006_zps71554f6f.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z233/Rwsgunsmithing/mk12mod0006_zps71554f6f.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo mk12mod0006_zps71554f6f.jpg"/></a>
 
I'm trying to build my MOD1 and I can't seem to find the Knight Handguard. Anyone know where I can buy one or the parts to make a replica?