Muzzle Brake Welded on with Carbon

[FALex]

I'm throwing in the towel with this one...I neglected to maintain the carbon on the brake of my LRP-07. Unfortunately, it now looks like it has been welded on with carbon (I tried to get a pic of it, to no avail, but it's not good). Yesterday, I soaked a patch with Eliminator and let it set there for 30 minutes just to see if it would touch it, and it did not.

Any of you folks have any ideas on this one? I will try to hit it with brake cleaner, but before I did, I wanted to know if that shit can damage the bore if you let it sit for too long?

I know that hanging the upper and letting it go in the ultrasonic for 30 minutes to an hour would probably make it really easy, but I'm sure rust would probably get to it pretty quick, not sure?

You guys had any luck with anything specific while not damaging the bore and crown? Thanks in advance.

 

[hlee]

Soak it in boretech c4 carbon remover overnight. Not a patch, hang the barrel tip in a cup of it. Alternatively, CLR gets good reviews but I haven’t tried it.

 

[c ward]

JP uses loctite on the muzzle brake threads and in my experience they are fit particularly tight .

 

[black max]

Hang it in some Kroil aka angel piss.

 

[DAMNKID]

Boretech and kroil are good then use some heat before trying to break it free

 

[Strelec]

If it's a 14.5, send it to the ATF and ask for a determination as to whether this new method qualifies as "permanent attachment." They'll manage to remove it.

 

[mheimer_45]

My tried and true method on the farm on anything rusted beyond belief is any ATF. The shit creeps and goes every direction like a mofo. Better than kroil or pb blaster. But it takes time. Overnight is long enough

 

[KZP]

Have you taken it off before? Just checking to make sure it isn't some kind of thread locker keeping it on tight.

 

[FALex]

Have you taken it off before? Just checking to make sure it isn't some kind of thread locker keeping it on tight.

I have not taken it off before, and I know that JP uses a locker. However, the issue is more than that. The best way to explain this is if you can imagine the carbon around the muzzle becoming almost "molten," then cooling off, that is what it looks like around the muzzle and threads of the brake. @bigjake83 suggested to hit it with WD-40 and then heat it up. Right now, I have it hanging upside down and have the brake/muzzle submerged in Boretech Eliminator.

I will check it after 24 hours. If I don't get any movement, I will try Big Jake's method. He suggested a blow torch, but I'm a chicken shit when it comes to applying fire to my firearms, so I'll use a heat gun

 

[hlee]

Buy a rare breed trigger and install it. Then run 3 or 4 mags through the gun. The barrel should be hot enough to loosen up the thread locker. No blow torch necessary.

 

[KZP]

Don't take thread locker too lightly. That stuff can be incredibly strong. Carefully heating with a torch should melt the locker so it will break free.

I just took off a brake that was thread locked from the factory. Required a lot of force even after heating it enough to compromise the locking.

 

[mheimer_45]

You guys and your thread locker. Heat melts it. If it’s something else ATF will lube it up enough. I’ve hammered nuts on with a 1/2 impact and after a atf soak a 3/8 ratchet will take them off. The right tool goes along way.

 

[Strelec]

If it is Rocksett, you'll need to leave the muzzle submerged in hot water for a while. Heat alone won't break Rocksett.