Gunsmithing Necessity of larger receiver base screws?

[GearboxRacquetball]

or are the factory ones sufficient for a picatinny base? They seem tiny, and since my local gs "screwed" up a recent re-tap courtesy of the folks at Remington not threading one of the holes correctly, I was wondering if it'd be better to have them all enlarged to the next size bigger. What is done regarding this on the Hide? Seems to me that doing so would add more strength to hold the base, <span style="font-style: italic">but maybe not</span>. All of my hunting rifles that use a two piece base are fine using these tiny reciever screws, but I'm just not so sure of how a single mount picatinny base and the additional stresses, if any, that are placed on it will hold up over time/rounds fired.

 

[BlackOps Tech]

Re: Necessity of larger receiver base screws?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: splatroll</div><div class="ubbcode-body">or are the factory ones sufficient for a picatinny base? They seem tiny, and since my local gs "screwed" up a recent re-tap courtesy of the folks at Remington not threading one of the holes correctly, I was wondering if it'd be better to have them all enlarged to the next size bigger. What is done regarding this on the Hide? Seems to me that doing so would add more strength to hold the base, <span style="font-style: italic">but maybe not</span>. All of my hunting rifles that use a two piece base are fine using these tiny reciever screws, but I'm just not so sure of how a single mount picatinny base and the additional stresses, if any, that are placed on it will hold up over time/rounds fired. </div></div>

I've seen the 6-48's break on many occasions, but the circumstances were that the rifle was dropped or there was some other seemingly severe event. I am a proponent of opening the holes to 8-40 because they're stronger, but I will never just drill the factory hole. I set the action up in the mill and go by the numbers to locate the holes, as the factory holes are typically not where they're supposed to be. I also power tap the holes while the receiver is still in the mill. This leaves absolutely no margin for error provided you use the correct tap (i.e., not a Hanson tap). Doing so ensures the holes are straight and dead nuts where they belong....

 

[GearboxRacquetball]

Re: Necessity of larger receiver base screws?

Good points. I'm not confident with going back to this gs ever, but maybe at some point, I'll have the larger holes drilled b a competent one. Is there anything other than the blue medium strength loctite that I can use to increase the diameter of the screw going into the now "enlarged, and re-tapped" receiver hole? The screw wobbles until I get about three turns on it, and then it seems to sit up straight and is secure. My thinking is that if I can build the actual screw up somehow, yet still be able to thread it in, it'll be better than just using the loctite...

 

[BlackOps Tech]

Re: Necessity of larger receiver base screws?

Not really, and unfortunately the blue loctite is only an illusion of accomplishment as you simply won't have the thread coverage you need to properly torque the screw. The type of loctite that's designed to make this type of repair is the last thing you would want to use. The real fix is to use a 9/64" end mill (it won't follow the existing messed up hole) to open the hole and use the proper 8-40 tap.

 

[GearboxRacquetball]

Re: Necessity of larger receiver base screws?

Skunkworks - Thanks for your suggestion, I suspected that that might be the only "fix". I'll know for sure when I do a dry run tighten up job on the base if that particular hole will handle the 20 in/lbs torque recommended, or if it will pull right out..

 

[BlackOps Tech]

Re: Necessity of larger receiver base screws?

No problem....15 in lbs will be plenty....

 

[former naval person]

Re: Necessity of larger receiver base screws?

Use some Marinetex on the threads. Lightly lube the screw...emphasis on light! A little heat will break the epoxy bond. Run a tap in to remove the epoxy. JMHO