New Arken Offering

It fits with their mount. They've machined a bit of a recess along the cantilevered section which is also tapered inwards to give it space. The mount is fine for the price, but definitely not equal to the more expensive options. Mine is machined such that there's more gap between the rear rings than the front when installed, which is not exactly confidence inspiring. IDK, maybe it has something to do with the way they're machining in the 20 MOA.
Since I'm here I'll add a little bit more on regarding my thoughts about the rest of it.
Pro's: price, you get all the features you need for a comparatively low price. Glass, it's pretty good. It's definitely not on par with $1,000 or better scopes. Despite all the bullshit reviews claiming "just as good as X," its not. It is totally functional, and probably completely usable out past 1000 yards for shooting steel etc. Nice and bright, but there's a noticeable difference between it and my 15 year old IOR or Ares ETR for clarity and ease of use. Accessories, the throw lever, level, and scope caps are all great. The caps I got are better than the pair of Vortex caps I have which they're a clone of. One piece base is meh, good design, machine work could be better. (See above) Turret alignment, I like the three set screw turret retention. I appreciate being able to exactly line up the witness marks. Tracking was also good with the limited box test I did and general adjustments I made.
Cons: Glass/focus is finicky. Its hard to get behind at high power, and hard to get either the ocular, or parallax focused. I feel like it took me forever to get the ocular to a point where I felt it was as good as it would get. Focal distances are off. 100yds is in focus when the dial reads about 75. 500 yards is in focus around 200 on the dial. And there's a lot of travel on that dial, so you're just kind of turning and turning trying to decide whats really the best setting for a given distance. Turrets and zero stop, mine stops 1/2 click past 0. Sometimes it springs back, sometimes it doesn't. Hoping I can turn the stop ring itself slightly to fix that. Also there's that spring back between clicks which may or may not bother people.
All in all its a decent scope, but all the shill claims in the original Arken threads are bullshit. (for you guys who have not read them, do so, you'll understand why people are so prickly about any Arken thread where people sing their praises) For the money you get one of, if not the only scope with this robust of a feature set. Everything works, and most of it works fairly well, but its certainly not an upper tier equivalent. And yes, their marketing goons absolutely did try to make those comparisons when they first launched.
I like every scope I’ve had my hands on. I don’t have a ep5 yet, but I’ve lost all confidence in their rings. I have three sets and two of them broke at the mounting plate. If you’re careful how you tighten them you won’t have any problems mounting them, but I just had another ring break sitting in the safe. I mounted it and everything was fine, I pulled out some guns yesterday and seen it cracked. I think they should make that part out of steel, several companies make that part out of steel. Another thing would be maybe a better machining interface right there where there would be less void to allow it to crack. They seem decent rings if it wasn’t for that, but I can’t gain confidence in them. People might say I’m not mounting it right, but in over 20 years of fucking with guns and scopes, I’ve never had that problem with any other ring. And this is twice in as many months I’ve had to warranty these rings.
 
Well that’s disheartening. Do you happen to have any of the ring sets still? I would love to see up close pics of the metal structure after its broken off. Makes me wonder if they’re using an inappropriate grade of aluminum or heat treatment to keep the costs so low.
 
It fits with their mount. They've machined a bit of a recess along the cantilevered section which is also tapered inwards to give it space. The mount is fine for the price, but definitely not equal to the more expensive options. Mine is machined such that there's more gap between the rear rings than the front when installed, which is not exactly confidence inspiring. IDK, maybe it has something to do with the way they're machining in the 20 MOA.
Since I'm here I'll add a little bit more on regarding my thoughts about the rest of it.
Pro's: price, you get all the features you need for a comparatively low price. Glass, it's pretty good. It's definitely not on par with $1,000 or better scopes. Despite all the bullshit reviews claiming "just as good as X," its not. It is totally functional, and probably completely usable out past 1000 yards for shooting steel etc. Nice and bright, but there's a noticeable difference between it and my 15 year old IOR or Ares ETR for clarity and ease of use. Accessories, the throw lever, level, and scope caps are all great. The caps I got are better than the pair of Vortex caps I have which they're a clone of. One piece base is meh, good design, machine work could be better. (See above) Turret alignment, I like the three set screw turret retention. I appreciate being able to exactly line up the witness marks. Tracking was also good with the limited box test I did and general adjustments I made.
Cons: Glass/focus is finicky. Its hard to get behind at high power, and hard to get either the ocular, or parallax focused. I feel like it took me forever to get the ocular to a point where I felt it was as good as it would get. Focal distances are off. 100yds is in focus when the dial reads about 75. 500 yards is in focus around 200 on the dial. And there's a lot of travel on that dial, so you're just kind of turning and turning trying to decide whats really the best setting for a given distance. Turrets and zero stop, mine stops 1/2 click past 0. Sometimes it springs back, sometimes it doesn't. Hoping I can turn the stop ring itself slightly to fix that. Also there's that spring back between clicks which may or may not bother people.
All in all its a decent scope, but all the shill claims in the original Arken threads are bullshit. (for you guys who have not read them, do so, you'll understand why people are so prickly about any Arken thread where people sing their praises) For the money you get one of, if not the only scope with this robust of a feature set. Everything works, and most of it works fairly well, but its certainly not an upper tier equivalent. And yes, their marketing goons absolutely did try to make those comparisons when they first launched.
The ring gap on the 20moa one piece mount has been noted by multiple people (myself included) in one of the other threads. I have two and they're both that way. I think, like you said, it has something to do with how they're doing the 20moa cant.

Adjusting your zero stop should fix the 1/2 click over issue, I've dealt with that before also.

It's funny about the "spring back" thing with the turrets. I never noticed it until someone mentioned it the other day. It doesn't bother me and hasn't caused me any issues, so not worried there.
 
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Well that’s disheartening. Do you happen to have any of the ring sets still? I would love to see up close pics of the metal structure after its broken off. Makes me wonder if they’re using an inappropriate grade of aluminum or heat treatment to keep the costs so low.
This is the only pic I have right now, I can get a better pic of it taken apart tonight.
It took very little effort to break. I didn’t even get it close to tight and I was bringing both screws in at the same time because of it binding. It felt like a egg shell. Yes in my opinion and experience, it felt nothing like 7075 aluminum. Felt more like pop metal.
40F1DBC0-7610-4F1E-A5FC-2971D50EF98E.jpeg
 
I finally made it to the range today. The weather was 15 degrees, gloomy, and not sunny at all.

The Arken EP5 was tested against an Athlon Cronus, Ares ETR, and US Optics FDN 25. I know everyone one of these scopes cost more but that’s what I had.

I have to say, I was very impressed with the Arken. It held its own and would not make you lose. Naturally the USO took 1st in all areas. The other three were closer than expected. The Cronus was second in every category. But not by a tremendous amount. Surprisingly the Arken beat out the Ares. The scope had no hiccups hitting targets out to 1000 yards. Held and Continuously returned to zero every time.

The Arken really is a Best Buy. I never expected it to be this good. I figured it was marketing hype, but it’s legit.
What did you test that had your Arken "beating" an Ares?

My buddy and I compared the 2 side by side (he owns both now, I only own the athlon scopes - cronus and ares), and even at 5x, the CA on the Arken was noticeably visible, while Ares you had to struggle to see.

how was tracking? thats what I'd like to see compared, we havent shot much recently as snow keeps dumping and its 10 degrees out, but will post an update when it happens.
 
I like every scope I’ve had my hands on. I don’t have a ep5 yet, but I’ve lost all confidence in their rings. I have three sets and two of them broke at the mounting plate. If you’re careful how you tighten them you won’t have any problems mounting them, but I just had another ring break sitting in the safe. I mounted it and everything was fine, I pulled out some guns yesterday and seen it cracked. I think they should make that part out of steel, several companies make that part out of steel. Another thing would be maybe a better machining interface right there where there would be less void to allow it to crack. They seem decent rings if it wasn’t for that, but I can’t gain confidence in them. People might say I’m not mounting it right, but in over 20 years of fucking with guns and scopes, I’ve never had that problem with any other ring. And this is twice in as many months I’ve had to warranty these rings.
That sucks. None of the sets of Arken rings I have, have had any issues at all. 🤔
 
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That sucks. None of the sets of Arken rings I have, have had any issues at all. 🤔
My one and only set has held up so far but that doesn't mean anything.. I only got these because they came basically free with the optic with the code, but I'm generally a hard core ARC M10 rings man...
 
My one and only set has held up so far but that doesn't mean anything.. I only got these because they came basically free with the optic with the code, but I'm generally a hard core ARC M10 rings man...
I use Seekins Precision rings on just about everything, but like you said, the Arken rings came free, so I figured WTF... But so far, so good for my sets. Hundreds of rounds on my .260 Rem and everything is fine. The other sets are on guns in the safe I haven't shot, but they haven't cracked sitting there...At least to my current knowledge. I'll look this weekend when I get time to pull them all out and look them over, and make sure they haven't cracked. Also, I torque them to their specs with a Wheeler FAT Wrench. Not saying others aren't, just stating what I do.
 
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I use Seekins Precision rings on just about everything, but like you said, the Arken rings came free, so I figured WTF... But so far, so good for my sets. Hundreds of rounds on my .260 Rem and everything is fine. The other sets are on guns in the safe I haven't shot, but they haven't cracked sitting there...At least to my current knowledge. I'll look this weekend when I get time to pull them all out and look them over, and make sure they haven't cracked. Also, I torque them to their specs with a Wheeler FAT Wrench. Not saying others aren't, just stating what I do.
Im the same way..use the vortex match rings, which are made by seekins, havent ever found a reason not to use them, or switch to another brand yet, as they offer a decent amount of height options, and they are very well made.
 
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Im the same way..use the vortex match rings, which are made by seekins, havent ever found a reason not to use them, or switch to another brand yet, as they offer a decent amount of height options, and they are very well made.
One of my SH4 6-24's is sitting in a set of Seekins rings, and it will be getting removed to go into the Arken AR mount, to put on my 6.5 Grendel that I recently rebuilt. And I will be putting my new EP5 in those Seekins rings on my .260 for apples-to-apples comparison next to my Strike Eagle 5-25x56, which is in a set of the Vortex/Seekins rings, on a rifle that is setup nearly identical to the .260..All the way down to the stock. So, I will be putting that SH4 on the rifle I remove the Seekins rings/SH4 combo from. Sounds overly complicated, but things change, and it gives me some things to tinker with.
 
Seekins are just hard to beat for the price.
Never had a problem with them.
Burris XTR rings with the inserts are second in my opinion, i like them to get my scopes down near the bottom of the elevation turret and my working dope, 1000 yards to a mile in the middle of the lenses for best clarity.
 
I mailed back one of my 525’s for parallax not matching up. I sent it 1/19 prior to going to Mexico. Just got back and received an email a new one has shipped out today. That’s my turn around experience in case anyone else has returned one and is curious. 🍻
 
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I mailed back one of my 525’s for parallax not matching up. I sent it 1/19 prior to going to Mexico. Just got back and received an email a new one has shipped out today. That’s my turn around experience in case anyone else has returned one and is curious. 🍻
If you were going to Mexico, you should have just stopped off in Texas and hand-delivered it to them on your way. 😂
 
Has anyone loosened the set screws on the parallax to try and index it at the right spot? Or is the screws not on the ep5?
I’m sure it’s set up just like the directional turrets.
 
FYI - EP-5 now shows out of stock on Arkan's web sight.

The reason I asked about the Tumor on the bottom is because I'm not going to use their shitty mount.
Going in either a RRS uniblock 1.26 Or a Cadex mount. Decided this is going on a bolt Gun 25C Tika.

I try to run 7075 mounts whenever possible.
 
Not sure, I was going off of my very bad memory, they’re on the EP4 which doesn’t even have numbers on it. LolView attachment 7800184View attachment 7800185
That would be a nice feature for folks complaining about "off" parallax. I like the numbers as a rough reference, but mine rarely ever lineup anymore, as I get older. When I was younger, and had 18/20 and 20/20 vision, they were perfect, but as I get older, and have sustained retinal damage and other damage to my right eye and my astigmatism, it makes things blurry if I spend a long time behind the glass without refocusing on something closer for a few minutes, and then going back to it.

Also, I think lots of folks don't realize that parallax numbers are based on fixed points of reference, but everyone's eyes are different, so parallax settings will rarely ever be perfect unless you have exactly 20/20 vision, and your eyes happen to be perfectly matched to those fixed points.
 
That would be a nice feature for folks complaining about "off" parallax. I like the numbers as a rough reference, but mine rarely ever lineup anymore, as I get older. When I was younger, and had 18/20 and 20/20 vision, they were perfect, but as I get older, and have sustained retinal damage and other damage to my right eye and my astigmatism, it makes things blurry if I spend a long time behind the glass without refocusing on something closer for a few minutes, and then going back to it.

Also, I think lots of folks don't realize that parallax numbers are based on fixed points of reference, but everyone's eyes are different, so parallax settings will rarely ever be perfect unless you have exactly 20/20 vision, and your eyes happen to be perfectly matched to those fixed points.
I think people should really take the time to properly set up the diopter on a ffp scope before testing the scopes parallax, I know some do, but a lot don’t.
 
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Has anyone loosened the set screws on the parallax to try and index it at the right spot? Or is the screws not on the ep5?
I’m sure it’s set up just like the directional turrets.
Well that would be embarrassing if that’s all it takes. Especially when all Arken asked was did I had the diopter set up correctly. Seems to make sense but hadn’t looked for set screws. Looked just now though and there are none on EP5 fyi.
 
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Friends don't let friends buy cheap pot metal scope rings, even if they are part of the "package" deal, when good US made Warne rings are $45.

JMHO.
I'm not seeing horizontal split 34mm rings from Warne for $45 anywhere. Got a link? The only ones that I'm seeing they offer in 34mm, that are horizontal split, are the Mountain Tech line and MSRP is $157 with a street price of around $120.

I do see their vertical split 34mm rings for around $60-$65 on Optics Planet. I used to run the vertical ones on everything that required separate rings, but I eventually became fonder of their horizontal split rings. But once I stepped up to 34mm tubes, I went to EGW Keystone rings and then the Arken ones.

I have 3 sets of the Arken rings, all torqued to 15 in/lbs on the caps and 30 in/lbs on the base screws, using a Fix-It stick. No issues for me. But since it's being mentioned, I'll inspect them again for peace of mind.
 
The documentation Arken provided states elevation adjustment range should be 32 MILs.

Windage adjustment should be 16 MILs.

Has anyone checked their turret travel range inre: elevation and windage?

Is windage measured from the scopes mechanical center?

Does windage travel constrict as the elevation increases (owing perhaps to the inner shape of the housing)--or should it remain constant at all elevations?
 
Got my EP5 today. Doing some initial comparisons, to the SH4. I'll write down my observations and take some pictures, then post about them later on. I probably won't get a good look at the glass until better weather conditions, we've been getting hammered with snow here in NE Indiana.
 
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The documentation Arken provided states elevation adjustment range should be 32 MILs.

Windage adjustment should be 16 MILs.

Has anyone checked their turret travel range inre: elevation and windage?

Is windage measured from the scopes mechanical center?

Does windage travel constrict as the elevation increases (owing perhaps to the inner shape of the housing)--or should it remain constant at all elevations?
I'll check the travel in my EP5 later, but I know for fact one of my SH4 scopes had a few more MIL than advertised for elevation.
 
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I'll check the travel in my EP5 later, but I know for fact one of my SH4 scopes had a few more MIL than advertised for elevation.

I had to back out my zero stop to accomplish full range of travel.

Curiously, my bottom was exactly (to the hashmark) 10 MILs down from my rifle's zero.

I had some binding at the end of turret travel, full elevation/full down--I'd advise being gentle/deliberate when approaching max travel. After a click or two back from hard stop, the tracking clicks were again definite and pronounced/tactile.
 
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I had to back out my zero stop to accomplish full range of travel.

Curiously, my bottom was exactly (to the hashmark) 10 MILs down from my rifle's zero.

I had some binding at the end of turret travel, full elevation/full down--I'd advise being gentle/deliberate when approaching max travel. After a click or two back, the tracking click was again definite and pronounced/tactile.

That’s a good sign assuming your on a 20moa rail or mount?
10 + 6 is right where it should be If 32 total mils available.
 
That’s a good sign assuming your on a 20moa rail or mount?
10 + 6 is right where it should be If 32 total mils available.
Agreed. My L>R windage is not so precise, I have I think a 3 MIL bias--but my rifle is home made (and from low-bid parts lol) so that may have nothing to do with the way the scope is engineered.

I very much like this scope (and especially at this no-shit price point) and by way of exploration I'm sort of interested in exploring the consistency of manufacture from lot to lot. That is one major drawback of China manufacture--consistency. If Arken has squared that away with their chosen manufacturer/suppliers, they're doing real good.
 
As long as it track’s reliably There’s a lot to like for the price. I had a coupon from a match so $412 for the EP-5.

I hate shitty mounts, but I’d feel like a retard putting a 400 optic in a 400 Spuhr.

Also not a big fan of vertical split rings. Have a few Larue’s on 30mm tubes, but won’t be buying any more.

I’m thinking the Griffin SPRM is a pretty good pairing for these. Usually about $160-180 & have a lot of accessory mount options available. They’re 6061, but beefy. Probably go this route for a 1.5” AR mount. All my 34mm mounts are 1.26 or less & won’t work with a 56mm objective.

Can anyone way in on how low in mag before the reticle sub-tensions become unusable?

I like the reticle on paper, but a little concerned it will be useless below 12x. Wish it was only 18-22x on top end to ensure the reticle sub tensions are legible down to 8x.
 
SNIP:
...Also not a big fan of vertical split rings. Have a few Larue’s on 30mm tubes, but won’t be buying any more.
I had a Larue mount on the shelf, and was a little nervous about torqueing the rings to the full 30 in/lbs Larue recommends, as I had no idea how the scope would handle it. I ended up compromising--30 inch/lbs for the bottom (per Larue), 18 inch/lbs for the top.
 
Adjusted my zero stop to actually stop at zero a moment ago. Used an 0.89mm hex wrench and just loosened the screws enough to turn it. Backed it up counter clockwise a tiny bit, put the turret back on loose, and then rotated the turret so that the zero stop pin rotated the zero stop to true zero. lifted the turret again, tightened the set screws on the zero stop, and then turret, and confirmed perfect alignment. I think the same could be done to set it how ever many clicks you want below zero as well.
 
My initial comparison of the EP-5 vs SH-4.

Glass/image quality:
EP-5 has a slightly improved image that is slightly sharper with better definition and brighter. This is very subjective and was with my eyes, looking out my back yard across a field at various distances out to over 1000 yards. I tried to get good pictures with my phone, but did not like the way they came out, so once the battery charges in my camera, I'll attempt better pictures later. Hopefully some at dusk to see if the glass is really improved.

Eyebox:
I "think" the EP-5 might have a slightly better eyebox, but I need to get the scope mounted before making that call.

Illumination:
Slight improvement with EP-5, enough to notice at least. Still not "daylight bright". So, it should be a little more useful.

Weight/Robustness:
EP-5 feels like a tank, a very "robust" feeling and in my opinion "similar" to how a Razor feels, though I believe a Razor is still heavier. Weight on mine is 40.1 ounces w/battery installed. I feel like I could drive stakes in the ground with the damn thing :). Once I get an SH-4 removed from one of the rifles, I'll compare them in hand side by side. Looking at the objective ends of the scopes, the rim is drastically thicker on the EP-5. I don't know if the scope's body is thicker all the way throughout or not.

Turrets:
Huge improvement with the EP-5, like night and day better (and I really like the SH-4 turrets). The 10 mil per revolution is nice. The EP-5 clicks are more audible and tighter feeling, I'll say more tactile because everyone loves that word it seems. The only downside I could see on the EP-5 is with the detents have closer spacing, it will be easier to over-adjust when dialing. On a slow easy going range day, that should easily avoidable. In competition or something with a faster pace?

Diopter adjustment:
One of my biggest gripes about the SH-4, is how hard the diopter ring is to adjust, it's way too tight. The EP-5 does not have that issue and I would compare it how a Vortex diopter adjustment feels. Smooth, not too tight or loose.

Parallax Adjustment:
EP-5 parallax adjustment has a rotation of 330 deg versus 300 deg on the SH-4. It also goes to 1000 (vs 500) and then infinity. The EP-5 seems to be more spread out about 200.

Internal travel (elevation and windage):
EP-5 advertised elevation is 32 mil and windage is 16 mil.
Mine measured 34.2 mil and 18.1 mil.

I also checked my SH-4 scopes (genII 6-24x50).
SH-4 advertised elevation is 32 mil and windage is 10 mil.

A) 35.5 mil / 12.7 mil
B) 35.6 mil / 12.7 mil
C) 35.6 mil / 12.6 mil
D) 35.6 mil / 12.8 mil
E) 35.8 mil / 12.1 mil


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Adjusted my zero stop to actually stop at zero a moment ago. Used an 0.89mm hex wrench and just loosened the screws enough to turn it. Backed it up counter clockwise a tiny bit, put the turret back on loose, and then rotated the turret so that the zero stop pin rotated the zero stop to true zero. lifted the turret again, tightened the set screws on the zero stop, and then turret, and confirmed perfect alignment. I think the same could be done to set it how ever many clicks you want below zero as well.
I didn’t spend much time on it, but did try the recommended procedure to try and get 1 mil below zero and it went back to zero. I’m also not an engineer and haven’t looked into the internal mechanics. I just know it didn’t work the time I tried. 🍻
 
My initial comparison of the EP-5 vs SH-4.

Glass/image quality:
EP-5 has a slightly improved image that is slightly sharper with better definition and brighter. This is very subjective and was with my eyes, looking out my back yard across a field at various distances out to over 1000 yards. I tried to get good pictures with my phone, but did not like the way they came out, so once the battery charges in my camera, I'll attempt better pictures later. Hopefully some at dusk to see if the glass is really improved.

Eyebox:
I "think" the EP-5 might have a slightly better eyebox, but I need to get the scope mounted before making that call.

Illumination:
Slight improvement with EP-5, enough to notice at least. Still not "daylight bright". So, it should be a little more useful.

Weight/Robustness:
EP-5 feels like a tank, a very "robust" feeling and in my opinion "similar" to how a Razor feels, though I believe a Razor is still heavier. Weight on mine is 40.1 ounces w/battery installed. I feel like I could drive stakes in the ground with the damn thing :). Once I get an SH-4 removed from one of the rifles, I'll compare them in hand side by side. Looking at the objective ends of the scopes, the rim is drastically thicker on the EP-5. I don't know if the scope's body is thicker all the way throughout or not.

Turrets:
Huge improvement with the EP-5, like night and day better (and I really like the SH-4 turrets). The 10 mil per revolution is nice. The EP-5 clicks are more audible and tighter feeling, I'll say more tactile because everyone loves that word it seems. The only downside I could see on the EP-5 is with the detents have closer spacing, it will be easier to over-adjust when dialing. On a slow easy going range day, that should easily avoidable. In competition or something with a faster pace?

Diopter adjustment:
One of my biggest gripes about the SH-4, is how hard the diopter ring is to adjust, it's way too tight. The EP-5 does not have that issue and I would compare it how a Vortex diopter adjustment feels. Smooth, not too tight or loose.

Parallax Adjustment:
EP-5 parallax adjustment has a rotation of 330 deg versus 300 deg on the SH-4. It also goes to 1000 (vs 500) and then infinity. The EP-5 seems to be more spread out about 200.

Internal travel (elevation and windage):
EP-5 advertised elevation is 32 mil and windage is 16 mil.
Mine measured 34.2 mil and 18.1 mil.

I also checked my SH-4 scopes (genII 6-24x50).
SH-4 advertised elevation is 32 mil and windage is 10 mil.

A) 35.5 mil / 12.7 mil
B) 35.6 mil / 12.7 mil
C) 35.6 mil / 12.6 mil
D) 35.6 mil / 12.8 mil
E) 35.8 mil / 12.1 mil

Very nice review. I feel the same way about most everything you wrote.

I use a parallax wheel from MKM and it really makes focusing parallax easy as butter. I saw a big giant wheel once on a March parallax turret and thought it seemed a bit ridiculous but this is smaller and makes the stiffer dial so easy to maneuver. I have throws on all my mag rings, regardless of scope brand. It’s just easier to me.
 
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I didn’t spend much time on it, but did try the recommended procedure to try and get 1 mil below zero and it went back to zero. I’m also not an engineer and haven’t looked into the internal mechanics. I just know it didn’t work the time I tried. 🍻
It's a little more complicated than what I did but not any more difficult. You can do this before or after getting the scope zeroed to the rifle.
Start by backing the zero stop scew out so that it does not contact the stop ring.
Rotate your turret from your zero to -1 mil, or 1 mil down, however you think of it.
Remove your turret and loosen the stop ring with the .89mm hex wrench. Leave just a touch of tension on it, so that it rotates easily, but will stay in place once you have adjusted it with the turret cap. Test this by hand first, you don't want the screws to hit a tight spot and chew something up.
Replace the turret but leave the screws loose, just like resetting it to zero.
Turn your zero stop screw back down so that it will catch the bar on top of the stop ring, but does not bottom out.
Rotate both the turret and stop ring together with the stop screw pushing the stop ring into position, so that your turret reads -1 mil/1mil down.
Remove the turret again, and tighten the lock ring in place. Be really gentle, super easy to strip one of those tiny screws out. Basically, when the screw bottoms out, stop. Pretty much anything past that is going to strip it or your wrench out.
Reinstall and lock down your turret, set to -1 mil/1 mil down (your scope is still set there).
Then tighten the zero stop scew back down like normal against the stop at that -1 mil set point, and it should be what you're after.
Hope this helps.
 
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What caps are the cool kids using?
I run Butler Creek caps on everything else, but the new Arken EP5 caps are pretty nice on it. I didn't like the way they fit on the SH4 Gen2 scopes, they were kind of loose and would slide around...But on the EP5, they fit nice and tight, and don't move around at all. Seem to be built really well, too. I do like the fact the objective cap swings all the way back around against the scope to keep it out of the way, and to keep from getting broke...It's a nice feature.
 
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...doubt I qualify as a "cool kid", but I use the "Flip-Its" that came with the basically 'free' Combo Kit. I like the way they attach, that longer and flexible "sleeve" works, much easier to put on than I encountered with Butler Creek caps on other scopes. Just roll/fold the flexible sleeve back on itself, set against scope, unfurl onto scope and adjust as necessary. I have read of folks having issues about them not "snapping" back flat when activated, mine DID NOT have that issue, they always snap flat against the scope body.
 
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What caps are the cool kids using?
Tyler at MKM can make some equivocal to Aadland. They’re about $70 a set. Not the cheapest but great quality a supports small business. He has parallax wheels and mag throw levers also.
1.728” is ocular size and 2.560” is the 56mm bell for EP5 and 2.323” for 50mm bells (EP4, SH4)
1.698” is the ocular for EP4 4-16 fyi.

Edit 2/16/22:
Correction: The 2.560” does NOT fit the 56mm bell. Tyler at MKM doesn’t currently offer a size to fit but I’ve requested he add 2.610” to the menu I linked below. If you ordered I suggest emailing them and requesting the larger size. The 2.638” is the next size currently offered and would be too large. 🍻

 
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Got my EP-5 in today and am suitably impressed. I purposely didn't read through this thread so I could form my own opinions.


Initial thoughts:

Build quality seems high. All adjustments on the mag, diopter and parallax knobs are smooth, and require just enough force.

Elevation and windage adjustments are precise, loud and nicely spaced for me. No lash in the turrets.

Glass is excellent. Haven't spent a lot of time behind it obviously, but I have a house almost one mile out my window, and putting it next to my M7xi it wasn't giving up 'much'. Yes, middle of the day, clear conditions. I expect the more expensive scopes to outpace it in mirage and low light conditions.

Illumination is crisp with no bleed over.

Now the 100 dollar question, will it track and handle field conditions reliably? Won't know for a while.

If it ticks those boxes, it is a keeper. And at 500 bucks, ought to be considered a shot across the bow.

I've owned or own: Kahles, NF, ZCO, Bushnell, Steiner, SB, Burris, Primary Arms platinum, Trijicon, Vortex. So probably a reasonable cross section of the scope market.
 
Got my EP-5 in today and am suitably impressed. I purposely didn't read through this thread so I could form my own opinions.


Initial thoughts:

Build quality seems high. All adjustments on the mag, diopter and parallax knobs are smooth, and require just enough force.

Elevation and windage adjustments are precise, loud and nicely spaced for me. No lash in the turrets.

Glass is excellent. Haven't spent a lot of time behind it obviously, but I have a house almost one mile out my window, and putting it next to my M7xi it wasn't giving up 'much'. Yes, middle of the day, clear conditions. I expect the more expensive scopes to outpace it in mirage and low light conditions.

Illumination is crisp with no bleed over.

Now the 100 dollar question, will it track and handle field conditions reliably? Won't know for a while.

If it ticks those boxes, it is a keeper. And at 500 bucks, ought to be considered a shot across the bow.

I've owned or own: Kahles, NF, ZCO, Bushnell, Steiner, SB, Burris, Primary Arms platinum, Trijicon, Vortex. So probably a reasonable cross section of the scope market.
Excellent review. I'm curious to hear your thoughts in adverse conditions. Mine came in a week or so ago, but I haven't had time to shoot through it, or take it outside and look through it. Work has been kind of hectic lately with my project coming to an end, and all the bureaucratic DOT bullshit that goes along with closing it out. Then we got one guy on "vacation" (dealing with some family issues), and another one got covid, so I had to go fill in for him all week, and tomorrow. And I'll be gone all weekend again this weekend. Maybe I'll get to go to the range on Monday.
 
I received a EP5 from the first shipment but never got a chance to open and play with it due to work (I travel ALOT). When I did get a chance a week ago it had pretty significant "scope sweat" that you'll sometimes see in a very minor way from drastic elevation&temperature changes (from the coast of California up to Lake Tahoe for example).

This was not minor though. It was wet all around the magnification ring, with some pooling liquid at various spots. I emailed Arken about it and they never responded.

Here's a picture I took of it right when I opened the box. The reason the moisture is streaking down the eyepiece is they use a foam noodle to cover it to protect it during shipping, the noodle absorbed a bunch of the moisture and drug it down the eyepiece when I was sliding it off.

I would put it in the freezer and give it the freezer test to see if the seals are broken but I don't want Arken to say I broke it or caused it to get worse (if they get around to replying to me).

But hey the turrets are nice and clicky though.
 

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I received a EP5 from the first shipment but never got a chance to open and play with it due to work (I travel ALOT). When I did get a chance a week ago it had pretty significant "scope sweat" that you'll sometimes see in a very minor way from drastic elevation&temperature changes (from the coast of California up to Lake Tahoe for example).

This was not minor though. It was wet all around the magnification ring, with some pooling liquid at various spots. I emailed Arken about it and they never responded.

Here's a picture I took of it right when I opened the box. The reason the moisture is streaking down the eyepiece is they use a foam noodle to cover it to protect it during shipping, the noodle absorbed a bunch of the moisture and drug it down the eyepiece when I was sliding it off.

I would put it in the freezer and give it the freezer test to see if the seals are broken but I don't want Arken to say I broke it or caused it to get worse (if they get around to replying to me).

But hey the turrets are nice and clicky though.
Let’s face it, they’re not good with addressing moisture. I was hoping they got that fixed.
Now someone needs to dunk the ep5.
If it leaks, I’m selling my sh4 and ep4, I’ll pick up another strike eagle and venom or maybe a couple Athlon helos gen 2s.