The YouTube video shows a different forend to the version that has actually landed in Australia. Pre production version?
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Aha, I just read your post. Thanks for the info
Thank you KRG
.
It seems that peope are digging my rig´s.
.It seems that peope are digging my rig´s.
Well damnit. Got a parallel lug on the way. Anyone need a .250" PTG taper lug cheap?
Pretty darned close. The texture is finer on the TRG. I just wish it took TRG magazines because AICS mags are way too long.
Pistol grip is 1/1 on KRG, and i like it better than TRG, since there is no any kind of grip on the TRG.
I have a long action bravo chassis. I’d like to put a defiance deviant in it. I know the chassis is for a Remington 700 or clone, but well the defiance handle work or do I need the modified handle. Please let me know. Thanks David
Thank you KRG
It seems that peope are digging my rig´s.
Hey im one of those likes haha
I understand the short action for the Howa action will be shipping soon.
Will we see a long action as well?
Will we see a long action as well?
If you tell Defiance you are putting it in a chassis they will get you the right handle. I forget what it's called, updated or modified or something. I think it's their standard one now though but I'm not sure. Other than that it will fit.
Right now there are not definite plans for a Howa long action but it could happen.
Regarding the ergonomics, we tried to make it as comfortable as a TRG as that is really the gold standard. I personally like the Bravo a tad more because there's a bit more clearance for the meaty part of my thumb.
Thanks guys!
Justin
Well my bravo just showed up. It is definitely going to replace my j Allen. The ergos are very close to my trg, I absolutely love it. Now I need to order another one for my tikka.
Couple questions, are all the cheek pads loose and wobbly? The pins are tight and not moving but the plastic pad is wobbling on the pins?
Second I'm having issues getting AI mags to seat. I have to slide them in just right. It looks like it's hitting the 2 tabs right below the action that must hold the top of the mag. Anyone else having this issue? I was thinking about beveling the lower squared edges to help funnel the magazine in.
Couple questions, are all the cheek pads loose and wobbly? The pins are tight and not moving but the plastic pad is wobbling on the pins?
Second I'm having issues getting AI mags to seat. I have to slide them in just right. It looks like it's hitting the 2 tabs right below the action that must hold the top of the mag. Anyone else having this issue? I was thinking about beveling the lower squared edges to help funnel the magazine in.
Attachments
This is from the KRG manual.
You need to adjust the magazine feed before you insert the action to the chassis.
Insert a magazine to test for fit, the forend can be moved forward or backward a small amount to adjust the magazine
fit.Additionally, the trigger guard can be moved a small amount as well if necessary, this will require removal of the
barreled action. Due to the magazine design of the AICS magazine and the magwell of the Bravo, it may be possible to put
pressure on the mag and push it up against the bolt. For this reason we do not recommend resting the gun on the magazine
when firing.
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/bravo-chassis/
Did you use the manual torq on the bolts?
And did you remember to tighten that third bolt what connect the buttstock to the chassis, that is tighten after you have done the 2-action screws.
Where are you from?
You need to adjust the magazine feed before you insert the action to the chassis.
Insert a magazine to test for fit, the forend can be moved forward or backward a small amount to adjust the magazine
fit.Additionally, the trigger guard can be moved a small amount as well if necessary, this will require removal of the
barreled action. Due to the magazine design of the AICS magazine and the magwell of the Bravo, it may be possible to put
pressure on the mag and push it up against the bolt. For this reason we do not recommend resting the gun on the magazine
when firing.
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/bravo-chassis/
Did you use the manual torq on the bolts?
And did you remember to tighten that third bolt what connect the buttstock to the chassis, that is tighten after you have done the 2-action screws.
Where are you from?
Last edited:
When in doubt read the instructions! What an idiot, sorry guys. New toy, as soon as the chassis arrived I threw it together and never read the instructions. I need to order the longer hex bit so I can torque. For now it's just snug so I could see how it feels.
And I'm from Colorado.
And I'm from Colorado.
My cheek piece is solid. Check the screws underneath, they may just be loose. Nice rifles btw.
In Finland, we only reed the manual, when the job is fucked
So you might own a little bit of Finnish blood
Anyways, you have not done any damage, so you are good to go, just check out those 2-things.
In Finland, we only reed the manual, when the job is fucked
So you might own a little bit of Finnish blood
Anyways, you have not done any damage, so you are good to go, just check out those 2-things.
My father always says “when all else fails read the instructions” lol
How do I get two modified tikka cheekpieces for my two bravos?
Took my tikka Ctr hunting in the bravo over the last couple of days, unfortunately the bolt holding the read qd mount wore loose and I lost the bolt in the grass. I’ll see if I’ve got a spare somewhere. I’d recommend loctite if you will be using the mount to carry your rifle around the countryside.
They add one spare cheekpiece in the lates Bravo chassis for Tikka, because the one what is on the rifle, is the original model, and the spare is where the
notch is made, if you want to change it, but that og cheekpiece is not causing any dilemma, if you dont rise it enough high, so that the bolt end is hitting to the cheekpiece.
I did modified mine when i got the chassis, no big deal to fix it, more job is it, to change the new one for the old one, how do you get those plastic
plugs off the cheekpiece?
I did used loctite for that rear qd mount screw, i also noticed, that it might come off, if it gets turning on the base.
M5 countersunc screw should do the trick, i did modified the outer diameter of the screw, by put the screw to battery drill, and give it a spinn against the file, so it get really snu fitting to the QD cup.
notch is made, if you want to change it, but that og cheekpiece is not causing any dilemma, if you dont rise it enough high, so that the bolt end is hitting to the cheekpiece.
I did modified mine when i got the chassis, no big deal to fix it, more job is it, to change the new one for the old one, how do you get those plastic
plugs off the cheekpiece?
I did used loctite for that rear qd mount screw, i also noticed, that it might come off, if it gets turning on the base.
M5 countersunc screw should do the trick, i did modified the outer diameter of the screw, by put the screw to battery drill, and give it a spinn against the file, so it get really snu fitting to the QD cup.
Sorry about the loose posts, we started leaving the plugs out so guys could put them in themselves. When our T3 specific cheekpiece gets here that will be included so guys can swap that one in if they want. The riser posts should have been tight though.
Regarding the JAE, it is very nice, we have one here and I love looking at it. I took it all apart, it's very well made. They used to sell for like 800 starting price and I hear they were almost losing money. Anyway, they are nice but from a purely functional aspect they are actually well behind many of the top chassis. That's ok though as there is still a market position for them and they're cool.
For the rear QD cup, a metric M5 flat head screw is a little bit too large in the head diameter to fit in the cup, even the stainless steel 10-32 flat head screws are too large and we have to use the regular steel 10-32 flat head screws. (M5 and 10-32 are basically interchangeable) We do recommend loctite on the screw of course. We don't install these on the Bravo's anymore, they come in the screw baggie with the accessories.
Thank you,
Justin
Regarding the JAE, it is very nice, we have one here and I love looking at it. I took it all apart, it's very well made. They used to sell for like 800 starting price and I hear they were almost losing money. Anyway, they are nice but from a purely functional aspect they are actually well behind many of the top chassis. That's ok though as there is still a market position for them and they're cool.
For the rear QD cup, a metric M5 flat head screw is a little bit too large in the head diameter to fit in the cup, even the stainless steel 10-32 flat head screws are too large and we have to use the regular steel 10-32 flat head screws. (M5 and 10-32 are basically interchangeable) We do recommend loctite on the screw of course. We don't install these on the Bravo's anymore, they come in the screw baggie with the accessories.
Thank you,
Justin
I'm sure it's been covered, but what are people using to torque the front captured action screw? I use a FAT wrench and I can't even get my torx bit in the hole?
My Borka kit came with a long bolt, originally designed for the AICS chassis (now called the Classic). Worked perfectly.
I think this is it now sold separately:
Mile High link
I think this is it now sold separately:
Mile High link
Take the forend off first, then torque the front screw.
You can also use this: https://kineticresearchgroup.com/Action_Screw_Extended_Hex_Wrench_it-1381956.aspx?CAT=12965
Thank you for your business!
Justin
One of those options should help. Thanks!
This is what I did
Would you guys want to see, what would Bravo chassis look, if there is a Tikka T1X on it?
Little teaser
According to Tikka, the T3x and T1x have identical footprints so a T1x should drop into a Bravo Tikka chassis. But what about the magazine?
Action fits to KRG Bravo chassis like any other T3/X Tikka would fit.
But the magazine adapter, or AICS Tikka T1X magazine is what it needs.
I bet that there will be companies, that makes these.
This might be the big next thing.
But the magazine adapter, or AICS Tikka T1X magazine is what it needs.
I bet that there will be companies, that makes these.
This might be the big next thing.
I'm interested in doing something similar. Did they finally start shipping the T1X? I have recently been looking at the Vudoo Gun works barreled actions, but the T1X would be a lower cost option. Any chance they'll work with the Vudoo AICS patter mags?
Massoud is the man
How do you release the Tikka magazine?
It would be great, but I think it's unlikely to happen any time soon. Either as an insert to the mag well of the Bravo, or as a 22LR conversion AICS mag. That said, I'd be among the first to buy one if it was produced.Action fits to KRG Bravo chassis like any other T3/X Tikka would fit.
But the magazine adapter, or AICS Tikka T1X magazine is what it needs.
I bet that there will be companies, that makes these.
This might be the big next thing.
You don't. Viking78 is holding the Tikka T1x mag in place to show where it sits in the Bravo.
Got my CTR bolted into my Bravo...now just need to pick up some rings and mount my scope and get out and shoot ?
Does anyone know if the Seekins Havak action will fit in the standard Bravo chassis or do I need the W3 backbone?
Thanks
Thanks
standard. some modification will be needed to fit.
Thank you
Any option for a long action? Putting together a 7 saum for hunting and want to seat the 180's long.
They should fit in there now, we added a chamfer near the recoil lug slot for clearance for the radius that they have behind the recoil lug.
Southerngolfer, was there anything else you had to do?
NewsShooter, yes there is a LA Bravo, it has the full W-3 front half and is a bit more money. It will take CIP mags and shortly it will have a spacer to take standard magnum mags if desired.
Great looking rifles guys, we sure appreciate your business.
Justin
I installed a TT special. the safety lever down by the main trigger housing, it was making contact with the aluminum chassis when it was back in the "safety" position. I had to Dremel/file down that area so I could pull back the lever into it's full safe position. when I received my Havak and it came with the magpul, seekins had already rounded the edge off the recoil lug slot. I had read where I needed to do that to the bravo bc of the radius of the integral lug. I looked at the action and when I made contact with the bravo, it didn't appear I was making direct contact. I'm not a gunsmith by anymeans so I had no way of checking other than tightening down the action screws. I went ahead and rounded a radius anyhow. so far, fits well and was shooting well.
on a side note, that captured action screw is a PIA. I know you didn't intentionally produce the ol bait and hook routine with having us buy the extended action hex you guys make now, but it would be nice if it was included with the bravo purchase or just not make it captured. I understand, it's a money thing by supplying the hex wrench too. over all, I'm very impressed with the Bravo, especially for the $$$. I was building a dual purpose rifle on a budget, and this hit it out of the park.
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