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New to Long Range Precision Shooting - Cold/Clean Bore Shots

steinmaster

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 14, 2013
83
1
Pittsburgh, PA
I just started getting into long range precision shooting. I've developed a good reload for my 308 and get under 0.5 MOA at 100 yards. One thing I'm experiencing is my first 3-4 shots from a clean barrel do not group under 0.5 MOA. They average 1 to 1.5 MOA at 100 yards. Once I get 3-4 rounds shot, my groups range 0.2 to 0.3 MOA at 100 yards. When I purchased the rifle, I broke-in the barrel by cleaning once after every shot for 10 rounds. Then I cleaned the barrel after every 5 rounds for the next 20 rounds. Now I clean after every 20-30 rounds I shoot. I clean using both BoreTec carbon and BoreTec copper removers and a bore guide until I get clean patches out of the barrel.

I'm looking for some good advice on what you guys do to handle this cold/clean bore issue. If I clean my barrel, I need to shoot 3-4 rounds before I get good groupings. If I leave it dirty, won't the carbon and copper fouling build up and mess up the barrel. Before I got into precision shooting (i.e. hunting and plinking), I would always clean my barrel before I put it away. I know I need to start documenting all my cold bore shots so I know where the first shot is going to go. What about the fact it takes me 3-4 shots on a clean barrel. I guess if I am going to do some long range shooting, I shoot 3-4 rounds and leave it dirty so I only have to worry about a cold bore vs. a cold and clean bore. Is the 3-4 rounds necessary since it is a clean barrel. I'm a making any sense? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Most barrels shoot better dirty. What you experienced is normal and happens to every barrel. Just shoot it till it stops shooting well then clean it. You will be impressed how long it can shoot well.
 
Thanks everyone. That's what I needed to know. Wasn't sure if not cleaning the barrel would cause issues (other than eventually loosing accuracy).
 
Originally Posted by qodebebop
stop cleaning your barrel until accuracy falls off

I may be opening a can of worms here... Stop using a copper remover and focus on just an oil to break down/remove the carbon.
The copper fills in the micro groove and pits in the rifling creating a tighter bore.

So my suggestion is after every 300 rounds run one wet patch followed by three dry patches and repeat until the dry patches come out with only a light gray on them about the size of a nickel. Of course if there was excess moister or dirt then the frequency of cleaning would have to be altered.

Considering you are using hand loads I am assuming they are of high qualitiy so excess copper build up shouldn't be an issue unless you use sub-standard ammunition. In the terms of firearm malfunctions carbon build up is your enemy.
 
Thanks for the good replies. One last question I have is why a barrel break-in is recommended if some rifles shoot better dirty with cooper fouling? GA Precision and others recommend a break-in to remove all the copper and carbon.
 
Because people hate simple answers... There is supposed to be voodoo involved in owning a nice rifle. You say that YOUR rifle doesn't shoot well until fouled, yet YOU continue to clean. Who cares what everybody else says... It's your rifle!
 
Stop cleaning your barrel until accuracy falls off.


This advice is only correct "IF" you know what rnd. count that is............when accuracy falls off........ start with a fouled barrel.... and don`t let the rnd. count fall into the poor accuracy level....during a competition......
 
One thing to be mindful of when not cleaning rifle bores is rust pitting.

The theory is powder residue absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and holds it right up against the bore, which leads to pitting. Non-stainless barrels are way more susceptible to this, but stainless barrels not totally immune.

Now, if you live in an area with very low humidity, this isn't really a problem. If your gunsafe or home is always kept at low humidity, it's not really a problem. However, if your rifle will be exposed to high humidity long-term, it's a good idea to at least patch out the powder residue with some Kroil or other carbon solvent before putting the rifle away for a while.
 
I finally settled on running a patch of CLP, then 3 to 4 quick dry patches just to get some corrosion protection in the carbon. So far, so good. After about 300 rounds I clean the bore, copper and all, with Patch-Out when the accuracy degrades. Then I fire a few rounds to re-foul the bore so it's ready to go. It's a compromise born from seeing best accuracy when fouled, but being concerned about corrosion.
 
I agree with not stripping the copper out of my barrel because it is resetting my zero every time I remove it. So what cleaner should be used that only removes carbon and leaves the copper in there? I have heard that some cleaners claim to only remove carbon but the patches still come out blue indicating copper was removed. What cleaners are false advertised as carbon remover only but still come out blue? What cleaners are known to remove carbon only?
 
While I rarely clean the barrel, I do clean the chamber and clean and lub the bolt after every 3-4 trips to the range. Tends to keep everything running very smooth!
 
While I rarely clean the barrel, I do clean the chamber and clean and lub the bolt after every 3-4 trips to the range. Tends to keep everything running very smooth!

I would echo this. I don't live near the coast hence rarely experience very high humidity and my safe also has dehumidifiers installed. I clean the chamber and work on the bolt but honestly pretty much leave the barrel alone with the exception of running a patch with a little Break Free CLP down the barrel for two passes. Then a couple dry patches. This is only to remove carbon grime etc... but leave the copper in there. Copper equilibrium is key to a good long range bolt gun.