NRL22 BASE CLASS RIFLE/SCOPE SETUP

[stonecoldnuts]

What's the best 22lr rifle/scope that qualifies for NRL22 Base Class? FYI: Any rifle system that comes in under a combined MSRP of $1050 shall be eligible to compete in Base class. This combined MSRP price is for the rifle and scope only. It excludes scope rings and bases, bipods, suppressors, data card holders, magazines, spare magazine holders, auto bolt releases, aftermarket triggers and extended magazine releases.

By best I mean most accurate and best value per dollar.

 

[billmeek]

Ask 10 different people that question, expect 10 different answers.

 

[stonecoldnuts]

I'd like to hear your opinion.

 

[EmphaticThumb]

I think there is some good info in this video:

A good shooter in my local NRL22 match is using a CZ and a Vortex Diamondback Tactical for base class.

I don't shoot base class but I do have some limited experience with a Vortex Diamondback Tactical on another rifle. I think it is a good scope for the money, the optics to me seem very usable for NRL22, the turret clicks are positive(if a little wiggly). The reticle is not my favorite but that is a personal preference thing.

 

[billmeek]

Personally, I'd go for a Savage rifle and leave as much of the $1050 for the scope as possible. A lot of people will call the Savage line garbage, but for an inexpensive rifle they have (in my experience) very good accuracy out of the box. The Accutrigger is fairly decent with nothing but adjusting it to lighten the pull.

For a bolt gun, I'd select the Savage B22 FV-SR at $349 MSRP. By the way, that was my first base-class rifle. If you keep the chamber clean and make some minor changes to the extractor after a LOT of rounds, it's a very reliable rifle.

If you want more aftermarket options, go with the Savage Mark II FV-SR at $295 MSRP. The one thing I don't like about my Mark II is the mag. It gets in the way at times on barricades and is a bit less reliable.

Something new for 2019 is the semi-auto Savage A22 FV-SR at $349 MSRP. I don't have this exact rifle, but do own something very similar in the limited edition Savage A22 FV FDX XP. I may be wrong as there may be a difference in the barrel profile, but it looks like the same rifle. The only differences I can see is that the A22 FV FDX XP has a flat dark earth colored stock and came with a TRS-25 red-dot and a 25 round Butler Creek mag in addition to the stock 10 round mag.

Note that the A22 and B22 both use the Savage rotary mags. A lot of people complain about "how hard they are to load". They just need to get out and practice more which will teach them how to load the mag easily. Once you get the hang of it, it's not hard at all.

I'm a big fan of Athlon scopes. Unfortunately even with the low cost of the Savage rifles, you can't use the Midas TAC with it's $803.99 MSRP. But you can use the Helos BTR which is the next first focal plane scope down in their line-up. It also happens to be the scope (Helos BTR 6-24×50) that I paired with the B22 as my first base-class rifle.

 

[308ftWIN]

For a bolt gun, I'd select the Savage B22 FV-SR at $349 MSRP. By the way, that was my first base-class rifle. If you keep the chamber clean and make some minor changes to the extractor after a LOT of rounds, it's a very reliable rifle.

Can you please detail these extractor changes and your cleaning procedure? PM if you don't want to clutter up OP's thread. I have a B22 FV and have recently caught the FTE Bug. Otherwise an awesome rifle for the $.

Thanks!

 

[308ftWIN]

Also. Can anyone confirm the amount that a SWFA 3-15 FFP would count towards the $1050msrp? $699.95? That with a B22 FV-SR would be my setup. $1,048.95 if I've got everything right...?

 

[garandman]

Tikka T1x w/ Athlon. Both have stellar reps, from all I've read.

I have no experience with the tikka but my Athlon ETR is out standing.

My long standing experience is to spend about the same amount on rifle and scope. The tikka with the Athlon will allow you to do that.

I do have a lot of experience with the CZ455. Even their factory barrel will shoot with a just about anything else out there.

Also you can build from the 455 action with a lot of after market upgrades and chassis options if you decide to move up classes.

The Weaver T-36 is an excellent scope, from my experience.

 

[billmeek]

Can you please detail these extractor changes and your cleaning procedure? PM if you don't want to clutter up OP's thread. I have a B22 FV and have recently caught the FTE Bug. Otherwise an awesome rifle for the $.

Posted here as it might be relevant.

The extractor change is to either swap out for a new one, which you can get the extractor, ejector, and spring clip free from Savage by calling tech support. If you want more than 1, you'll have to pay for them. Compare the new extractor to your old one. If you haven't worn the old one down, then you can stone the old one to very slightly increase the angle of bite of the extractor to the rim so it doesn't slip off.

It's also a good idea to put the spring back on using this method so it doesn't stretch it out and lose tension. From:

Savage MK11 BV won't extract.

I have a Savage MK11 BV that won't extract the used cartridge. I had the bolt reblued after reworking the bolt handle and adding a knurled bolt knob. I don't really think that is the reason for not extracting the spent cases. Could it be from too much lead and carbon around the chamber area...

www.rimfirecentral.com

When you go to put it back together put the spring around the front of the bolt from above first with the little cutouts facing rearward. Then from the front of the bolt slid the blued sharp hook extractor in from the bolt face end under the spring. It goes on the ejection port side. Then the rounded one goes in from the front same way on the side away from the port.

They go back until the little cutout in the spring and the cutout in the extractor hook each other so that everything stays together. It doesn't matter which color you do first, but the sharp hook one has to go on the ejection port side of the bolt.

If you put the extractors in first and then bring the spring down over the top of everything you'll likely spread the spring too much and weaken it.

If you're having issues, you'll likely need to put some work into cleaning the chamber. With well over a case of CCI SV/Aguila SV though mine, it took a couple of hours to get it right. I'd soak a patch in Hoppe's #9, put it in the chamber for 20-30 minutes, scrub like hell with a brass brush, turn the rifle over and repeat. Why turn it over? Because all the Hoppe's while soaking will puddle at the bottom of the chamber and you'll end up with the gunk at the top not getting cleaned correctly. Then I use a VFG jag and pellet covered with JB bore paste to scrub a bit. Clean again with Hoppe's #9. I repeated that procedure until I could aim the barrel straight down and a CCI SV round would hand feed by gravity alone then point the barrel up and the round would fall free.

If you'll keep the chamber relatively clean, it won't take a lot of work. I scrub mine every couple of boxes of ammo with one of these:

Brush n' Mop™ chamber tool

The Brush n' Mop™ Chamber Tool is very handy for loosening and removing chamber fouling from your Ruger 10/22, Remington 597, Marlin 60, and many other semi- auto and lever action rifles, and many .22 semi- auto pistols as well. This little tool will help keep your gun functioning at peek...

www.gunsmithertools.com

Or you can make your own:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504746

If you scrub with the chamber tool while still on the range with the barrel still warm, it's more effective. Otherwise just pull the bolt and clean at home with your other cleaning tools.

I now "cheat" and use a Hawkeye (Shooters Edition) borescope to inspect the chamber to make sure it's clean. It's not a cheap tool, but it's worth the cost to me.

 

[billmeek]

Can anyone confirm the amount that a SWFA 3-15 FFP would count towards the $1050msrp? $699.95?

From what I can find online, that's the correct MSRP.

One thing I do want to point out is that while you shouldn't need more that a 15x scope for most of the NRL22 courses of fire, there are rare occasions where having more power is useful. For example when shooting paper at 100 yards. I was using my Athlon Talos BTR 4-14 on that 100 yard paper stage on a windy day and could not make out the hits to adjust windage. My score suffered because of it. (At least that's my excuse!) Now I won't buy a scope for NRL22 with anything less than 24x.

 

[Hsvhammer]

Tikka T1x w/ Athlon. Both have stellar reps, from all I've read.

I have no experience with the tikka but my Athlon ETR is out standing.

My long standing experience is to spend about the same amount on rifle and scope. The tikka with the Athlon will allow you to do that.

I do have a lot of experience with the CZ455. Even their factory barrel will shoot with a just about anything else out there.

Also you can build from the 455 action with a lot of after market upgrades and chassis options if you decide to move up classes.

The Weaver T-36 is an excellent scope, from my experience.

Was just looking at the NRL rules and found this forum/thread during a search. The problem with the CZ 455 ( I have 3) is that they are out of production and disqualified because they can not get a MSRP for it. The same will go for scopes. I think the date they use is June 1.

That is why Bushnell came out with the Match Pro, just for NRL22 and sold only direct from Bushnell. I guess that is a good reason to buy a new 457.

I apologize, I was talking only about Base Class. Anything goes in open class as long as it is .22LR which would include my AR built with a Beyer Barrel, Geissele Trigger, etc. Very, very fun gun to shoot, accurate too.

 

[Lastsaint21]

I ran/run and CZ MTR and a 5x25 scope from Cabela’s. Second focal plane tactical I believe. Had me right under the limit. The scope, for the money worked fine, even had the center dot which I like..The Tikka with a “better” scope is a good idea as well..