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Odd primer problem and intermittent ejector marks

1slow01z71

Side of the barn hitter
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 12, 2012
919
11
Austin, TX

From my limited google foo abilities it seems that this was just a bad primer. Theres and actual hole between thr A and the D. Ive had two of these in the last 100 rounds or so. Apparently winchester large rifle primers have a reputation for doing this. My load isnt terribly hot at 44gr of varget under 178 amax at 2.8". Gets me about 2690 out of a stock r700 5r with the 24" barrel.

Im also getting heavy ejector marks intermittently. Even woth weight sorted brass, charge thrown on a chargemaster, same lot of primers and even tried some federal primers and had a couple with heavy ejector marks as well. What confuses me is others from that same session of loading do not have ejector marks at all. Prior to this last range trip I've never had the ejector engraving, this load has always been rock solid with SDs around 10 and half moa on a day when I have my crap together. With these brass signs accuracy has fallen off as well. Unfortunately I dont have picture right now of a clean fired load but if you can look through the carbon ring youll see that the primer is barely losing any roundness at all if any and the fact that in the past I didnt get these ejector marks leads me to believe its not a hot load. Ive ran this load up to 2740 in a heavier lot of hornady brass (14gr heavier) and still didnt get any ejector marks and primers looked good just wasnt as accurate and I'm happy woth 2700ish for a 178 amax.

I set headspace with a hornady comparator and FL size every time. If it was an entire batch from one loading I'd think I did something wrong but since its about half and half that fire like normal and the other half has heavy ejector marks. If I didnt set headspace correctly I'd think all would have these ejector marks. The only thing I've changed is putting a different muzzle brake on. The rifle has about 600 rounds through it now and am considering actuslly cleaning it really well but I dont see how that would cause my brass issues.

I'm stumped and looking for things to check.
 
Looks like another failed Winchester primer.

Been a rash of these over the last few years.

As to the ejector marks: You're over pressure for one reason or another. If it's a load you've shot a lot of and never had a problem with before, perhaps you've switched to a new powder lot, or a new bullet lot? Maybe the barrel is a bit fouled. It's been my experience that only highly overpressure ammo will consistently create an ejector mark on every shot. When you're just a bit over the edge, the marks will be intermittent as you're seeing.

Last thoughts: Wet/oily/lubricated chamber or ammo will cause pressure indicators much sooner. Be sure your chamber and ammo is clean and dry.
 
I run my 175s to 2650 with the WLR primers and I've never had a primer leak. I've also pushed the WLR primer to fairly high pressures at 3010fps with the 155 scenar, and I never had any do this.

How many rounds did you have down your barrel when you did this test? If it was a brand new barrel, or within the first 100 rounds or so, you may want to re-evaluate the velocity. Barrels can pick up a significant amount of velocity after they are broken in. My barrel picked up a solid 100 fps after the first couple hundred rounds. I've heard of others picking up 50, and even up to 150. Just brainstorming here...since you have 600 rounds down the tube, this might not be the issue if you've tested velocity recently. Might just be a bad batch of WLR primers. Try bumping down the load by 3%, you should find a node somewhere in there, and load up 20 rounds or so and run them to see if any primer pierce. Also, run a string of like 5-6 rounds, then chamber one and let it sit in there for 30 seconds or so, see if it heats up and causes any issues. Loads that are near max, which I think 44 is close (someone else can chime in here to validate), can see pressure issues if the round gets warmed up in the chamber.

I also see cratering on the primer, which could be a pressure sign. How are your primer pockets holding up after shooting this load? Maybe someone with more experience could chime in.

Just my 0.2 cents, best of luck figuring this out!
 
You exceeded Hornady's max load and blew a primer. This isn't Winchester's fault. Also, be aware that Hornady has two different 308 brass cases out there. They are 10 grains apart in weight and have different capacities. Weigh the blown case and compare it to a mild looking one.
 
You exceeded Hornady's max load and blew a primer. This isn't Winchester's fault. Also, be aware that Hornady has two different 308 brass cases out there. They are 10 grains apart in weight and have different capacities. Weigh the blown case and compare it to a mild looking one.

Disagree that the picture indicates an overpressure condition. There is no sign of brass flow whatsoever.

As has been seen over and over again across the last several years, the Winchester primer failed on the corner radius. Affected primers will do this even at pressures well less than SAAMI maximum.
 
What I get out of the OP is a certain amount of dependence on data. "Well, the book says I'm safe, etc." I know, not exactly. But with extractor marks, cratering and blown primers, and relying on past performance, instead of current evidence; it's just possible we are not seeing the forest for the trees?

Yes, there has been a fair amount of chatter concerning defective Winchester primers but I don't see how it can cause extractor marks on the case? That almost always indicates excessive pressures.

If it was my gun, I would modify the load a bit and see if you still have "defective primers". BB
 
Disagree that the picture indicates an overpressure condition. There is no sign of brass flow whatsoever.

As has been seen over and over again across the last several years, the Winchester primer failed on the corner radius. Affected primers will do this even at pressures well less than SAAMI maximum.

There is no brass flow because there was a pressure leak.
 
Looks like another failed Winchester primer.

Been a rash of these over the last few years.

As to the ejector marks: You're over pressure for one reason or another. If it's a load you've shot a lot of and never had a problem with before, perhaps you've switched to a new powder lot, or a new bullet lot? Maybe the barrel is a bit fouled. It's been my experience that only highly overpressure ammo will consistently create an ejector mark on every shot. When you're just a bit over the edge, the marks will be intermittent as you're seeing.

Last thoughts: Wet/oily/lubricated chamber or ammo will cause pressure indicators much sooner. Be sure your chamber and ammo is clean and dry.
After further reading it seems that the WLRPs are known for failing at that area of the cup. I found multiple threads with pictures exactly like mine. I will be switching to federal primers as that's what I have a lot of.

I cannot speak for the bullet lots as Ive got a pretty good stockpile of them but have not checked lot numbers. When Ive measured them they've always been pretty consistent. On the powder I know Im in a different lot than what I developed the load on but Ive gone through a few lots since development and FPS has been within a couple of percent. Hodgdon powder in my experience has always been pretty consistent between lots. Ive shot about 400 rounds if this load through this gun with no problems until now.

The barrel probably is a bit fouled, if I was getting pressure signs on all of them I might could see that but I will clean it anyway. Ive been contemplating stripping the copper out and starting over as Ive only cleaned it with a nylon brush and carbon remover as I shoot suppressed quite a bit which obviously fouls the barrel much faster. Ive got some cheapo FMJs that I can shoot to get the copper back in the barrel before I chase down this load again.
I run my 175s to 2650 with the WLR primers and I've never had a primer leak. I've also pushed the WLR primer to fairly high pressures at 3010fps with the 155 scenar, and I never had any do this.

How many rounds did you have down your barrel when you did this test? If it was a brand new barrel, or within the first 100 rounds or so, you may want to re-evaluate the velocity. Barrels can pick up a significant amount of velocity after they are broken in. My barrel picked up a solid 100 fps after the first couple hundred rounds. I've heard of others picking up 50, and even up to 150. Just brainstorming here...since you have 600 rounds down the tube, this might not be the issue if you've tested velocity recently. Might just be a bad batch of WLR primers. Try bumping down the load by 3%, you should find a node somewhere in there, and load up 20 rounds or so and run them to see if any primer pierce. Also, run a string of like 5-6 rounds, then chamber one and let it sit in there for 30 seconds or so, see if it heats up and causes any issues. Loads that are near max, which I think 44 is close (someone else can chime in here to validate), can see pressure issues if the round gets warmed up in the chamber.

I also see cratering on the primer, which could be a pressure sign. How are your primer pockets holding up after shooting this load? Maybe someone with more experience could chime in.

Just my 0.2 cents, best of luck figuring this out!
At about 100 rounds this load did 2650, at 500ish rounds it does 2695ish so Id say the barrel is good and broken in by now. When I shoot a group I generally try not to screw around with the last shot or two so it cant cook in the chamber. The ones with ejector marks have no rhyme or reason, sometimes its the first, sometimes its the last, sometimes its 3-4 of the 5 even after letting the barrel completely cool down.

Hornady lists book max at 43.X so Im not much over it, but Hodgdons site says max is 45gr and in my experience the Hornady manual is VERY conservative and I tend to trust the powder manufacturer than the bullet manufacturer.

The most loads Ive gotten through is 4x with this load and the primer pockets are still nice and tight even with the small OD Winchester primers. The cratering happens even with well below max loads. I believe Ive just got one with a large firing pin hole. The fact that my primers still have a rounded edge to them, I have no case head separation problems, primer pockets still tight with a small OD primer after 4 firings and until now no ejector marks leads me to believe my load is safe. I know plenty of people running higher charges than I am in 5Rs with no problems but obviously that has to be taken with a grain of salt but my headspace measures within a thousandth of theirs so Id say we should be pretty close. I just see no point in running it harder, 2700fps with a 178 amax gets the job done just fine for what it is.
You exceeded Hornady's max load and blew a primer. This isn't Winchester's fault. Also, be aware that Hornady has two different 308 brass cases out there. They are 10 grains apart in weight and have different capacities. Weigh the blown case and compare it to a mild looking one.
See above for my thoughts on the powder charge and the primer problem.

I wish I would've known about the different lots of hornady brass a few months ago. I just figured that out a month or so ago as I was getting unexplained flyers that I figured had to have been me. I noticed that a lot of the once fired brass I have had different primers so I weighed them and sure enough my brass either weighs ~158gr or ~172gr with a fired primer in it.
Disagree that the picture indicates an overpressure condition. There is no sign of brass flow whatsoever.

As has been seen over and over again across the last several years, the Winchester primer failed on the corner radius. Affected primers will do this even at pressures well less than SAAMI maximum.
This is what I have found as well on the Winchester primers, it seems this is only with the LRPs and none of the others though.
Also take a look to see if there's any differences in neck thickness or length between the cases that showed pressure sign and the one's that didn't. You could have excess carbon buildup that's only causing problems with cases that are slightly thicker or longer in the neck.
All cases were trimmed to 2.004 prior to this firing so they all started at the same length, but I haven't gotten a neck turner yet. Its on my short list of items to buy for sure. I did notice a couple of them were harder to chamber than other but did not notice if those were the ones with ejector engraving. I believe even ones that were normal still had some engraving.
What I get out of the OP is a certain amount of dependence on data. "Well, the book says I'm safe, etc." I know, not exactly. But with extractor marks, cratering and blown primers, and relying on past performance, instead of current evidence; it's just possible we are not seeing the forest for the trees?

Yes, there has been a fair amount of chatter concerning defective Winchester primers but I don't see how it can cause extractor marks on the case? That almost always indicates excessive pressures.

If it was my gun, I would modify the load a bit and see if you still have "defective primers". BB
Again Ive fired over 400 rounds of this combo in the gun in weather from 15* to 100* and am just now having problems on a 65* day. It has been a safe combo, not to mention these thin primers still show a nice radius and there is no brass flow that would signal a high pressure load. As I said above the cratering happens on even well below max loads. Im not blaming the primers on the ejector marks at all, I believe that is a separate problem that after further research seems to be a flaw in WLRPs.


As it stands now Im going to look through my powder stash and find which lot I have the most powder of and use that to load some more with federal primers and back the load down half a grain or so and work back up. Im debating on whether to strip the barrel or simply clean the carbon out as Id like to do whatever cleaning I can at the house before hitting the range. Then I could run 20 or so FMJs through it make sure the barrel is settled back down then run some more of the current loaded rounds and see if I get ejector marks again. If I do drop back to these others Im talking about loading. If I still get ejector marks then take it from there I guess.

The ONLY thing Ive changed since last time is put a different muzzle brake on and possibly jumped into another powder lot. I just figured that if the powder was a little hotter that it would be chewing up all my brass and not just intermittently.
 
There is no brass flow because there was a pressure leak.
All my other brass with perfectly fine primers does not have brass flow either. Same cratering of the firing pin but still a nice radius on the edge.
 
Hodgdon's data is based on Winchester brass and Sierra SMK which is .1" shorter than the Amax. Hornady's 43.something data is based on the lightweight case. Combine a heavy case, excessive charge, longer bullet and voila.

Just because Winchester is unable to contain excessive pressures does not mean your load is safe. I agree that current lots of WLR are smaller in diameter and piss people off but they are not responsible for what happened here. Drop your load and they'll be fine.
 
What does winchester brass weigh? I cant imagine it being much lighter than the hornady brass I'm using. Im using the lighter lot that weighs 158ish gr with a spent primer in it. Thats fairly light for 308 brass as FC, Lapua and the heavy lot of Hornady are all 10+gr heavier. Also I'm a full grain below max of what hodgdon says.

To be clear I'm not saying my load isnt hot, its drfinitely possible that the current lot is a little warmer causing this issue. It just confuses me that its not doing it to all of them. I sorted the brass into 2gr weight ranges so theres not a big brass weight variance causing some to be higher in pressure with the same charge.
 
Since Winchester stopped nickel-plating all their primer cup sheet stock as a cost-cutting measure (now natural brass vice silver-colored) their primers are more likely to leak around the edges. You can feel the difference hand-seating them as opposed to Federal, Remington, and CCI.

44 of Varget in a 308 with bullets seated to 2.800 is pretty much an index load -- if it doesn't shoot well in a 308 bolt, gas-operated, or pump-action rifle then something's wrong in the system. Hodgdon's own data says 42.0 to 45.0 (compressed) is the range for a 175-grain bullet, 41.0 - 45.0 for a 180.

I don't like Hornady brass, but that's experience based on 338 Lapuas (I know, apples v. oranges).
 
What does winchester brass weigh? I cant imagine it being much lighter than the hornady brass I'm using. Im using the lighter lot that weighs 158ish gr with a spent primer in it. Thats fairly light for 308 brass as FC, Lapua and the heavy lot of Hornady are all 10+gr heavier. Also I'm a full grain below max of what hodgdon says.

To be clear I'm not saying my load isnt hot, its drfinitely possible that the current lot is a little warmer causing this issue. It just confuses me that its not doing it to all of them. I sorted the brass into 2gr weight ranges so theres not a big brass weight variance causing some to be higher in pressure with the same charge.

Win brass weighs about 158. So the leaky case weighs 158 as well?
 
You are a full grain below Hodgdon's max but Hodgdon uses Sierra bullets which are .1" shorter. By using the Amax at 2.800" you are reducing case volume. What you are doing is similar to running the SMK in a 7.62 case. Just so you know, the SMK needs only 42grs to reach 2600 FPS in a 7.62 case.
 
Win brass weighs about 158. So the leaky case weighs 158 as well?

Yes sort of. It weighs 158 WITH a spent primer. I have not weighed one decapped and cleaned as all of my hornady brass with the exception of 100 cases are all bought once fired so I sort them before decapping and cleaning as I dont want to process all 2000 to the specs of my current 308 as I might want to use them for other guns I buy in the future.
 
158 with primer means 153 without. Are your cases prepped? Did you remove a lot of metal? Did you ream the primer pockets?
 
158 with primer means 153 without. Are your cases prepped? Did you remove a lot of metal? Did you ream the primer pockets?

I take the once fired brass and FL size it, tumble, run it across the pocket uniformer on my lyman case prep center, trim to 2.005ish, debur outside of the neck, chamfer the inside and go. No neck turning or anything else. Before I trim the brass they range from 2.006 to 2.018 generally, I have not weighed brass thats ready to load.

When I get home I'll weigh some of the same batch that I havent loaded yet and see what it weighs. The other puzzling thing is that this load shot well with the 100 cases I was using that was assorted 158 and 172gr with no ejector marks. The more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards a hot lot of varget.

I'm going to check headspace on them as well to see what theyre measuring. I guess a dirty chamber could be possible as well since quite a bit of smoke comes out of the chamber when shooting suppressed but I just cant see that causing such an intermittent problem.

Ill also check to make sure I'm not going crazy on the weights. I weight sorted about 250 cases and I'd say 60% were 158-159, 25% 156-157, 10% 160-161 and 5% were the heavy 172ish ones. I believe the bulk of my 172 weight cases are in the large 1500 batch I bought. As I said it was very apparent when I was shooting the heavier brass as I gained 40fps with the same charge.
 
Your primers may be leaking around the cup periphery. I'd check my bolt face to make sure you're not getting high-pressure pitting and etching.

These are extreme examples:

coltbolt_zps46fb923d.jpg

P1050379.jpg

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images
 
Last edited:
1slow01z71

For reference.

The 9th edition Hornady manual lists the 178 A-Max and Varget at 43.2 grains as a max load, COL 2.800 and Hornady brass.

The Lyman manual lists the 178 A-Max and Varget at 44.0 as a max load, COL 2.780 and Remington brass.
 
Upon closer inspection it looks like Ive got three primers that went bad. Two that actually punctured at the radius and one that just leaked around the primer pocket. Unfortunately it did do a little damage to my bolt head but nothing too serious. I most definitely will no longer use the Winchester primers from here on out.


These were shot in order from top to bottom in 5 shot groups with a few minutes of cool down period between 5 shot strings.


Tried to get the best angles I could to show the condition of the primers and the ejector marks. As you can see the primers still have a nice rounded edge with no brass flow, its just the intermittent ejector marks that puzzle the hell out of me. In the first row only the second and fourth have ejector marks. The second row the first three have marks but the last two don't. The last row the first four have marks some pretty bad and the last has none. That leads me to believe its not a hot chamber issue.

Pics of some previous loads that shot well that were prepped just like this batch to the best of my knowledge. First row, first and second brass are 158ish weight, third is 172ish and I see no extra pressure signs so this load should be fairly safe given the weight variation.


None of these were weight sorted as this was before I found out there were two separate lots of Hornady so there is inter-mixed 158 and 178 gr brass.

Forgot I also shot some with federal primers, same story with them only know blown primers. About 30% of them have swipes and a couple have actual heavy engraving.


Can it really be as simple as a hotter lot of varget? If so why does some brass show heavy ejector marks and others show no pressure signs even though the brass weight is within two grains of each other, charge thrown on a chargemaster and all bullets seated to the same depth?
 
You bought once fired brass and undoubtedly a wide range of differing lot numbers, so just because you have the same head stamp, you shouldn't expect every round to be in the same pressure range. Weighing cases does not assure that they are the same internal capacity.

If you used a new bottle of Varget, and suspect it is "hot" meaning faster burning maybe? Did you work up that load with the new powder or just use previous data? BB
 
It's as simple as you exceeded Hornady's max.

The reason some of your case are OK is because your ES is high and your pressure inconsistent.
 
1slow01z71

The Quickload pressure and velocity charts I posted for the .223/5.56 with 25 grains of H335 was because I was loading "MIXED BRASS" fired by our local police and SWAT teams.This brass was all over the spectrum in weight and internal capacity with cases that had the same headstamp. I wanted my loads to be well below max pressure and safe to shoot with all brands of brass in my AR15 rifles. These mixed cases were nothing more than short range practice ammunition. When shooting for accuracy in my AR15 A2 HBAR and .223 bolt action I do not use mixed brass and use brass from the same lot. And even these cases are sorted by weight and volume and uniformed for the most uniformity.

On a impulse one day at our local gun shop I bought a box of Nosler custom brass, it cost more but I wanted to "see" what the difference was between this and standard .223/5.56 Remchester brass. This Nosler brass is weight sorted, the flash holes are deburred and uniformed and best of all the cases were very uniform in case wall and neck thicknesses.

Bottom line, buy high quality brass for firearms you want the best accuracy in and don't bother with range pickup brass unless you have an autoloader and need blasting ammo.

Remember, save the good quality brass for long range headshots.

silhouettezombie_zps0faf3cdd.jpg


And get rid of that NFG mixed brass before you get bitten and end up a Zombie extra on "The Walking Dead" Sunday nights on AMC.


LaughingSmiley_zps51f85375.gif
 
You bought once fired brass and undoubtedly a wide range of differing lot numbers, so just because you have the same head stamp, you shouldn't expect every round to be in the same pressure range. Weighing cases does not assure that they are the same internal capacity.

If you used a new bottle of Varget, and suspect it is "hot" meaning faster burning maybe? Did you work up that load with the new powder or just use previous data? BB
Sure same weight doesn't ensure same volume but its gets you pretty close. The problem Im having is that loads with the mixed weight hornady brass shot better and with no pressure signs than weight sorted brass with this latest batch. I did not work up this load as Ive been through half a dozen lots over the last year with the powder shortage and never had this problem. I also knew I had some wiggle room pressure wise as I had ran the load up to 45gr before with only slightly flattening primers but poor accuracy compared to the 44gr node.
It's as simple as you exceeded Hornady's max.

The reason some of your case are OK is because your ES is high and your pressure inconsistent.
I know some of my posts are long-winded but are you actually reading them all the way through? How do you know if my ES is high? In fact theyre not. When I found out about the different weight brass I sorted 50 into two separate weight categories and loaded them with the same charge prior to this last outing where I had problems.

10 shot strings
158gr 2691 2708 2700avg SD 6 ES 17 also accuracy was better thus I loaded up 50 more of the 158ishgr cases
172gr 2707 2747 2724avg SD 14 ES 40 obviously the higher ES affected accuracy a bit
Now that I consulted my notes and not just off the top of my head the 12gr case weight caused a 24fps speed increase not 50.

Id say an SD of 6 and an ES of 17 is pretty damn good given the components and methodology of construction with no neck turning, loaded on a chargemaster and some green box rcbs dies. So again the cases Im having a problem with are the same weight as the ones I got the results above with.

Youre also forgetting that even with the varying cases weights, prior to this batch I did not have this problem. So its hard for me to believe its simply because Im exceeding hornadys book recommendation. That's also the same book that wants me to load 208 amaxs in my 300wm to 3.34 which puts the ogive INSIDE the case mouth, nor does it list the most popular 300wm powder(H1000) for its most popular 300wm bullet(208 amax), or that recommends a ridiculous 15.9gr of H110 for 150gr pills in 300blk. The hornady book is one of the worst reloading manuals Ive seen so I put very little weight in what it says. With a lighter brass and lighter bullet than what hodgdon developed their 180gr data for Im still a full grain below their max. To simply say my problem is due to exceeding Hornadys listed max when its been a terrible resource to begin with and Ive put hundreds of rounds worth of this load down range with no problems in all sorts of weather is ridiculous.

Something has changed either in a mistake I made while loading it, the gun or my components. As far as I can tell I loaded them the same as I always do, nothing has really changed drastically in the gun so Im leaning towards components. Since I didn't track exactly when I switched over to this pound of powder nor do I have the old empty container(for lot #) I have no idea where the last pound ended other than by weight of what I have left in this pound which leads me to believe Ive loaded 100 rounds out of it. That happens to be about where it seems the problem started. I didn't put much thought into the change in powder as Ive only been able to get single pounds this year and usually only two at a time(damn quantity limits) so every two pounds is a different lot with no problems like this. The logical step is to back the charge down and see what happens. I just assumed that since the ejector marks weren't on all the cases that it wasn't the powder since that would be a constant across all the rounds in this particular loading. It seems at least one guy says that even if youre over pressure it wont always happen to each case. Seems weird to me since some brass has no ejector mark at all, while others are pretty bad and all primers still look nice even with these particular primers being known for softness. Its worth a shot though at this point to rule it out.
1slow01z71

The Quickload pressure and velocity charts I posted for the .223/5.56 with 25 grains of H335 was because I was loading "MIXED BRASS" fired by our local police and SWAT teams.This brass was all over the spectrum in weight and internal capacity with cases that had the same headstamp. I wanted my loads to be well below max pressure and safe to shoot with all brands of brass in my AR15 rifles. These mixed cases were nothing more than short range practice ammunition. When shooting for accuracy in my AR15 A2 HBAR and .223 bolt action I do not use mixed brass and use brass from the same lot. And even these cases are sorted by weight and volume and uniformed for the most uniformity.

On a impulse one day at our local gun shop I bought a box of Nosler custom brass, it cost more but I wanted to "see" what the difference was between this and standard .223/5.56 Remchester brass. This Nosler brass is weight sorted, the flash holes are deburred and uniformed and best of all the cases were very uniform in case wall and neck thicknesses.

Bottom line, buy high quality brass for firearms you want the best accuracy in and don't bother with range pickup brass unless you have an autoloader and need blasting ammo.

Remember, save the good quality brass for long range headshots.

silhouettezombie_zps0faf3cdd.jpg


And get rid of that NFG mixed brass before you get bitten and end up a Zombie extra on "The Walking Dead" Sunday nights on AMC.


LaughingSmiley_zps51f85375.gif
Ive got some lapua brass Ive been sitting on for a while that Im going to load up to see what happens as well. I know if I want absolute accuracy there are other things Im going to need to do but neck thickness variance within reason isn't going to cause the problems Im seeing. Once I nail down whats going on with that Ill pursue other avenues to eek out every last bit of accuracy. Even with this "crappy" brass Ive gotten great numbers, sub half moa accuracy multiple times and its substantially cheaper on the pocket book. I would stop shooting if all my guns required top tier brass to perform decent. Ive had great luck with LC brass as well but by many standards that stuff is junk. With that said I don't compete in benchrest competitions or anything like that nor am I a good enough shot to be able to tell hundredths of inch difference in accuracy.

For shits and grins I weighed the various brands of brass Ive got on hand. Weighed 10 random of each for variance

FC 3gr
Winchester 2.5gr
Norma 1gr
Lapua 1gr
LC 223 2gr
LC 308 2gr

Obviously the hornady brass Ive got varies more than that but this brass Im having problems with was sorted into 2gr lots, specifically 158-159gr weight range so the actual brass I loaded seems to be right in there with the other common brass as far as weight is concerned. Nevermind the fact that this same brass but with a wider weight variation(mix of the 158ish and 172ish) has been fine up until now. I appreciate your input, you always seem to have funny smilies, cool pictures and gifs to illustrate your points. Your pin gauge recommendation finally allowed me to set my Dillon swager up right much easier/faster.

Walking Dead is the only show that makes me wish I had cable. Great program for sure, but I can wait the year for it to come out on Netflix before the next season starts. Im a cheapass and it allows me to buy more shooting goodies.
 
Measure your fired cases: widest expanded part of the base, edge of the shoulder and the neck. Is your chamber a factory one or custom?
 
According to the diagram in the hornady manual Im about a thousandth smaller than those measurements. .469 at the case head, ,453-.454 at the shoulder and .342 at the neck. It is a bone stock Remington 700 5R with the 24" barrel with as of right now about 630 rounds down the tube. 50 magtech FMJs, 40 FGMM, 100 or so worth of various load development and the rest is this 44gr Varget/178 amax load.

Ive got a box of FGMM 175s I forgot about that Im taking to the range with me Sunday to try if need be.
 
You have a match chamber. That explains everything.

Mine runs .471", .456", .346".
 
Did you check your seating depth and ogive-leade contact or jump distance with a Stoney Point gage? The 178 A-Max has a longer bearing surface than most Sierras and jamming or just kissing the lands will build pressure faster than a running start.

First, I'd stop using WLR primers. Second, you may be right about a slightly hotter Varget lot -- you could back it off a half-grain to start.

Are you using an extra-strength firing pin spring?

You might also start considering a firing pin bushing -- you seem to be getting cratering or the raised rim at the firing pin indent on both plain brass and nickeled cups.
 
You have a match chamber. That explains everything.

Mine runs .471", .456", .346".
What does it explain exactly? Ive had a match chamber the whole time though, I dont think its changed lol. Good to know though as that should lead to a little better brass life.
Did you check your seating depth and ogive-leade contact or jump distance with a Stoney Point gage? The 178 A-Max has a longer bearing surface than most Sierras and jamming or just kissing the lands will build pressure faster than a running start.

First, I'd stop using WLR primers. Second, you may be right about a slightly hotter Varget lot -- you could back it off a half-grain to start.

Are you using an extra-strength firing pin spring?

You might also start considering a firing pin bushing -- you seem to be getting cratering or the raised rim at the firing pin indent on both plain brass and nickeled cups.
Ive got the hornady set for measuring the lands but same concept. I dont remember exactly but I remember thinking hoe far off I was from the lands which I'm sure has to do with the long ogive of the amax.

The bolt is stock other than a knob. Some bolt work is definitely on the agenda and I will get it bushed while the rest is done. Ive knowm ot was pretty bad but everything has been working so well I didnt want to screw it up you know. If it aint broke dont fix it kinda thing. Ive got an identical 300wm and was going to send both bolts off together once I finished load development on it but have been distracted by these issues with the 308.
 
1slow01z71

A "bone stock" Remington 700 doesn't come with a match grade chamber, you need a chamber cast to get the correct chamber measurements. American made cases run on the small side in base diameter and the spring back rate of your brass will not give you actual chamber dimensions.

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What does it explain exactly? Ive had a match chamber the whole time though, I dont think its changed lol. Good to know though as that should lead to a little better brass life.

It explains why you have these pressure issues. Do you understand the concept of increasing pressure with decreasing volume? A standard 308 chamber is much bigger than yours and has more volume. So a 44 gr charge in a standard chamber wont make as much pressure as it would in a match chamber which has less volume. The size of the chamber dictates how much the case expands and how much net volume you have in the system. A heavy case in a tight chamber equals less net volume than a light case in a standard chamber. Got it?
 
It explains why you have these pressure issues. Do you understand the concept of increasing pressure with decreasing volume? A standard 308 chamber is much bigger than yours and has more volume. So a 44 gr charge in a standard chamber wont make as much pressure as it would in a match chamber which has less volume. The size of the chamber dictates how much the case expands and how much net volume you have in the system. A heavy case in a tight chamber equals less net volume than a light case in a standard chamber. Got it?
Again I'll ask if you've actually read my posts? This load has been working for hundreds of rounds in my "match" chamber and now there is a problem. I could understand if I was developing the load and couldnt get to the higher charges like some people run. That would make sense since my chamber would be smaller than theirs but its got nothing to do with my chamber as it hasnt changed in dimension since it left the factory. Some carbon fouling in the chamber from shooting suppressed could be the only thing I could concievably see but my brass only has soot on the neck, not on the body.
 
1slow01z71

A "bone stock" Remington 700 doesn't come with a match grade chamber, you need a chamber cast to get the correct chamber measurements. American made cases run on the small side in base diameter and the spring back rate of your brass will not give you actual chamber dimensions.

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A wealth of information as always Ed. I realize measuring fired brass will not give me exact chamber dimension but it will give me an idea though. I just took the measurements because he asked and I want to provide everyone with as accurate and as much info as I can. Im not beyond reproach, and know I could be missing something very simple so I want to try everything possible to help my case. I didnt think remington made their guns with a match chamber but since my rifle is their top-of-the-line 5R I didnt know if they might just do it on that one.

I finally got in a big backorder of bullets yesterday so I'm going to tear down 10 of the remaining 35 from this troublesome batch and load with a different lot of varget, another 10 with .2gr less, and 5 I'm going to swap the primers to federal with the same charge for shits and grins. I want to keep 10 in tact to try after I've cleaned all the carbon out of the barrel. I didnt have time to check lot numbers on my varget stash last night but will do that tonight.
 
Again I'll ask if you've actually read my posts? This load has been working for hundreds of rounds in my "match" chamber and now there is a problem. I could understand if I was developing the load and couldnt get to the higher charges like some people run. That would make sense since my chamber would be smaller than theirs but its got nothing to do with my chamber as it hasnt changed in dimension since it left the factory. Some carbon fouling in the chamber from shooting suppressed could be the only thing I could concievably see but my brass only has soot on the neck, not on the body.

You keep maintaining the attitude it is OK to exceed the maximum load in the manual. It worked for 100s of rounds after all. Well, guess what? Nothing in reloading is static. You think that if you weigh out 44 grains for each load it's gonna make the same pressure for every shot? It won't.
 
You keep maintaining the attitude it is OK to exceed the maximum load in the manual. It worked for 100s of rounds after all. Well, guess what? Nothing in reloading is static. You think that if you weigh out 44 grains for each load it's gonna make the same pressure for every shot? It won't.
Youre right, nothing in reloading is static except the rifles chamber that you keep pointing out. Its the one constant(static) in the equation. Components and my methodology for constructing the cartridge could've changed. I don't think I changed anything in my reloading practices but its possible. I used fully processed and weight sorted brass this time so technically I should've had the best starting point for any of my loads. My bullets aren't any different, my primers are from the same lot, so it leads me to believe its a powder issue at this point.

Youre right that the same weight of powder for each shot wont be the same as there are other things effecting the forces on the bullet besides powder alone BUT my chronograph shows otherwise that my load is at least consistent before this last round. An ES of 17 is not bad at all for non neck turned brass and powder not being thrown on a promethius or top tier brass.

Get over the hornady book BS already. Hodgdons site lists a 45gr max for 180gr bullets which should have damn close to the same bearing surface as the 178amax and as you even said their loads are developed off heavier brass than Im using with a lighter bullet AND one full grain below their max listed charge. Hell Im at or below max in quite a few of the other manuals Ive got so which one should I believe? The one that gives retarded COLs, missing the most popular powders and gives ridiculously reserved powder recommendations?

If anything my gun should be more pressure resistant due to throat erosion(although very little on a 308 with this low round count) not all the sudden cause issues if the cartridge its being fed is the exact same. Its something Ive changed in my load whether its my practices or components, unless anyone thinks a really fouled barrel would cause this issue but I don't believe its that fouled as I cleaned the carbon out of it about 300 rounds ago and have only shot about 50 rounds suppressed since then.
 
A suppressor may give you up to 50 FPS more velocity based on back-pressure and a longer pressure curve (the projo has so many more inches and milliseconds to clear the end of the suppressor).

Since you appear to be dancing on an edge your plan to back the charge off .2 to .5 won't hurt.

Hand loading data is usually built in a lab fired from a 24 to 26-inch barrel on a rifle or universal receiver -- usually without a suppressor hanging off the end.
 
Youre right, nothing in reloading is static except the rifles chamber that you keep pointing out. Its the one constant(static) in the equation. Components and my methodology for constructing the cartridge could've changed. I don't think I changed anything in my reloading practices but its possible. I used fully processed and weight sorted brass this time so technically I should've had the best starting point for any of my loads. My bullets aren't any different, my primers are from the same lot, so it leads me to believe its a powder issue at this point.

Youre right that the same weight of powder for each shot wont be the same as there are other things effecting the forces on the bullet besides powder alone BUT my chronograph shows otherwise that my load is at least consistent before this last round. An ES of 17 is not bad at all for non neck turned brass and powder not being thrown on a promethius or top tier brass.

Get over the hornady book BS already. Hodgdons site lists a 45gr max for 180gr bullets which should have damn close to the same bearing surface as the 178amax and as you even said their loads are developed off heavier brass than Im using with a lighter bullet AND one full grain below their max listed charge. Hell Im at or below max in quite a few of the other manuals Ive got so which one should I believe? The one that gives retarded COLs, missing the most popular powders and gives ridiculously reserved powder recommendations?

If anything my gun should be more pressure resistant due to throat erosion(although very little on a 308 with this low round count) not all the sudden cause issues if the cartridge its being fed is the exact same. Its something Ive changed in my load whether its my practices or components, unless anyone thinks a really fouled barrel would cause this issue but I don't believe its that fouled as I cleaned the carbon out of it about 300 rounds ago and have only shot about 50 rounds suppressed since then.

Since you have things all figured out, good luck. Keep blowing primers. Keep flowing brass. When your rifle lets go one day and someone next to you gets injured, you'll lose everything and then you'll remember this discussion.
 
Since you have things all figured out, good luck. Keep blowing primers. Keep flowing brass. When your rifle lets go one day and someone next to you gets injured, you'll lose everything and then you'll remember this discussion.

A little over-dramatic, don't you think?

The pictured primer isn't "blown" in the traditional reloading sense of the word, and he's sure as shit not going to blow up a Remington 700 with 44gr of Varget under a 178amax.
 
A suppressor may give you up to 50 FPS more velocity based on back-pressure and a longer pressure curve (the projo has so many more inches and milliseconds to clear the end of the suppressor).

Since you appear to be dancing on an edge your plan to back the charge off .2 to .5 won't hurt.

Hand loading data is usually built in a lab fired from a 24 to 26-inch barrel on a rifle or universal receiver -- usually without a suppressor hanging off the end.
This problem is happening even without the can on. I only fired a handful of rounds with the can on and this batch.

While I havent chronod this particular load with the can on the most I've ever seen a gain of with the can on is a hair over 20fps. That was on a short barrel with a slow powder and heavy bullet. Most gains I see is somewhere between 5 and 15fps. I do need to do it for my own info though as once I get this figured out I'll be shooting suppressed pretty much 100% of the time. With my relatively long barrel for a 308, and medium burn rate powder I dont expect more than normal increase in velocity. What was the details on the 50fps gain? Im interested in knowing what kind of conditions cause that large of a gain.
Since you have things all figured out, good luck. Keep blowing primers. Keep flowing brass. When your rifle lets go one day and someone next to you gets injured, you'll lose everything and then you'll remember this discussion.
The bad primer issue has been well documented and its not like I'm piercing primers. The two failed at a nicely radiused edge. Where in any of those pictures is my brass flowing? You can still clearly see the goofy hornady faux primer crimp ring on all of them. The WLR primers are known for being soft and they still have plenty round edges.
 
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A little over-dramatic, don't you think?

The pictured primer isn't "blown" in the traditional reloading sense of the word, and he's sure as shit not going to blow up a Remington 700 with 44gr of Varget under a 178amax.

You two are made for each other.
 
You two are made for each other.

Codes used by California Fire, Police, CHP, etc.
918V = Violent mental case

918v listed occupation "Freedom Confiscatior"
(The mental case misspelled Confiscator)

So we have a Mall security guard with a big ego, a little johnson and a god complex.

Or else we have an escaped mental patient who thinks he is a Mall security guard that keeps fondling his
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Another 700/5R:

Mattp27
Senior Member
Join Date: March 6, 2009
Location: Houston Texas Area
Posts: 107

January 15, 2011, 12:37 PM
.308 Reloads

I just went and shot some bullets I reloaded for my new Remington 700 5R my primers look odd. I used 43gr of Varget and by my Nosler reloading book I am only 1 gr above the min starting load. Are the over pressure signs or underpressure? They were moving at 2528 fps out of a 24" barrel. Ive been reloading for a couple years now but I mainly reload for .223 and 45 ACP I have never seen this.

I got some rather good groups after the barrel break in procedure. All at 100 yards. With some load tweaking I should be able to get sub 1/2 MOA
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January 31, 2011, 09:58 PM

UPDATE!!!!

I went to the range yesterday with a box of factory loads and I got the same exact looking primers. I am now convinced it has nothing to do with my reloads! Here is a picture. The Lapua brass are my reloads and the winchester brass are the factory bought. It does seem to have something to do with the bolt.

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Would you please post the lot number of those Winchester primers as I'm compiling

a list of questionable lots.

Regards,

Steve
CKL537G

Hoping to finally get out to the range tomorrow and try some different combinations. Using all Federal primers now.
 
Made it to the range today and figured out my problem. I cleaned the carbon out of the barrel prior to hitting the range since it had been a while since I had cleaned it. I had a box of tula 308(yeah I know) but figured theyd work well for fouler rounds and aren't very hot. I fired four of them and all had primers that popped out slightly. So I knew the fouling wasn't the problem obviously. At that point I took the flashider mount for my can off and swapped it for a muzzle brake mount. For some reason the flashider was on pretty damn tight. Id guess somewhere around 50 ftlbs or so, way more than it should've been. I do not remember putting it on that tight or why I would've put it on like that. Must've been in the twilight zone or something. Anyway, as soon as I swapped to the muzzle brake my velocities dropped by about 20fps and everything was back to normal. Out of about 70 rounds fired, only one had an ejector mark and I believe that had something to do with a crappily seated primer. Ive since started swagging the primer pockets since the last batch of the hornady brass which has greatly increased primer seating consistency.

I did have to drop my load .2gr with the swap to federal primers from the Winchester to keep the same accuracy but at 43.8gr of varget in the light hornady cases and federal primers its still doing 2680 out of a 24" pipe and 178 amaxs. So plenty of velocity to get the job done on anything I plan to do. Even with the can on I had no problems. I let a couple rounds cook in the chamber for 30 seconds or so and they exhibited no pressure signs and my velocity only went up by a couple fps so Id say this ought to be a pretty safe load.

I don't think Ive ever read of a tight muzzle device causing these kinds of problems but after I swapped to the muzzle brake I put well over 50 rounds down range with no problems and the accuracy Im used to from this gun again. So moral of the story, pay attention to how much ass youre putting behind the wrench when you put your muzzle devices on.
 
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How does a bore constriction at the muzzle affect peak pressure when the pressure is already low by the time the bullet gets to the constriction? It's like 8000 PSI.
 
No idea, which is why in my earlier posts I dismissed it as being a possible problem. I simply swapped it because my muzzle brake mount came in and it was one of the only things I changed before the problem so I went ahead and did it. The next round of tula I shot through it dropped velocity so I shot some of the loads I was having problems with last time and it fired fine. Shot off 5 rounds and it was back to its sub moa self. Doesn't make sense to me either, especially since the 5R has a relatively fat barrel on it youd think it would lend well to not deflecting under relatively small stress.

Regardless, I put quite a few rounds down range today with no problems and back to good accuracy. No goofy primers either using the federals so Monday Ill be calling Winchester to see what they will do since it seems Im not alone in the problems I had with their primers.
 
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I ran your numbers through QL using 57grs as your water capacity. I found a couple Hornady Match cases that weighed 155grs, sized them down to your fired dimensions (my body die does that) and they came out a little tighter than Winchester, by about .3 grs. Regardless, using your data QL says you're right at the verge of 60,000 PSI. Are your bullets 1.325" long or are they longer?
 
Fucking winchester primers they gave me a whole $20 for the damage done to my bolt. I will never use win primers again. Bolt had less than 100 rounds on it I would like to shove it up their ass.