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What barrel length are you guys using/used and seen success with for the 300 win mag with the heavy bergers? Intended purpose of longer range target shooting and some long range hunting. I've currently got a 26" barrel that is lights out. But have been kicking around the idea of shortening it to a 22.5". I obviously know I'd lose some velocity. But has yalls experience shown any noticeable accuracy losses?
Asking for a friend...
Asking for a friend...
Generally short barrels are more accurate than long ones
Here is a test a guy did with 300 mag, and cutting the barrel down.
http://rifleshooter.com/2013/12/300...rrel-length-change-velocity-a-16-300-win-mag/
Many factory 300 mag offerings are 26" bbls, so you'd need to add 80-100 FPS to his test for what the velocity from a 26 would have been.
You're giving up a lot of what the 300 mag adds vs a non-magnum 30-cal by going to a short barrel. Also you're going to add significant noise and muzzle blast vs a 26. If you are going after game that really needs a .30 cal projectile, and you need the energy of the magnum, then you probably need the barrel length.
Heavy projectiles and long range are generally not where a shorter than standard length barrel for the cartridge shines.
Here is a test a guy did with 300 mag, and cutting the barrel down.
http://rifleshooter.com/2013/12/300...rrel-length-change-velocity-a-16-300-win-mag/
Many factory 300 mag offerings are 26" bbls, so you'd need to add 80-100 FPS to his test for what the velocity from a 26 would have been.
You're giving up a lot of what the 300 mag adds vs a non-magnum 30-cal by going to a short barrel. Also you're going to add significant noise and muzzle blast vs a 26. If you are going after game that really needs a .30 cal projectile, and you need the energy of the magnum, then you probably need the barrel length.
Heavy projectiles and long range are generally not where a shorter than standard length barrel for the cartridge shines.
In theory. Though in the real world longer barrels hit more targets.
We sell a lot of 30" barrels in 300WM. We sell a lot of them at 22" as well. Customers buying both are happy.
My 300WM is 26" shooting 215 Bergers. Personally I wouldn't go shorter in a magnum caliber intended to shoot heavies.
If you know your dope and data, you could make the same hits with a 22" or 26". A little extra velocity just makes it a touch easier going an extra few yards or when you are a little off on the wind call. If you plan on using it for long range engagements only, it wouldn't hurt to keep it long as a dedicated long range barrel.
I have no issue running a 26" barrel because it is still more manageable than a traditional rifle with a 24" barrel for me.
I have no issue running a 26" barrel because it is still more manageable than a traditional rifle with a 24" barrel for me.
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Thanks for all of the input guys!
I concur completely, In the real world faster, lower drag projectiles minimize the misjudgement of wind, and range, and therefore make hits easier to achieve.
Wanting to know how the ejector is removed from a SRS bolt. Read somewhere that you remove the roll pin to get the extractor out but haven't seen anything about the ejector removal. Perhaps if I remove the extractor it will be obvious how the ejectors are installed/removed but hoping one of you guys that knows could give me a lesson.
thanks
thanks
You've got that backwards. The ejector is removed by knocking the roll pin out. The extractor you just shove down and then slide out. Takes some wiggling, but it will come out.
Many thanks Orkan and exactly why I asked. Read a really good article on pressure signs that I believe you wrote. Anyway I've been working up a load and was getting a swipe on the brass even though it wasn't a hot load and no other signs of high pressure. Examined the bolt face and noticed there was a little dimple on the ejector so now thinking it was a false indicator, regardless wanting to take out and square the ejector face. You've got some great articles on your website.
Thank you sir. Happy to be of service!
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Orkan, any CNC alum rails in the works?
I second this. Also any wrenches available so I can swap barrels/extensions?
We've had rails in stock for months. I posted it here when we had em.
http://www.primalrights.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=101&product_id=138
Sorry, missed that. My inability to post on threads with my second login forced a third login creation this week, and kept me from following this thread very carefully since the migration
Is it possible to get just the hard cases for the SRS? I always see the hard and soft case combo, but I really don't need both. I'd rather get the pre fit ones, but if not, I'll just end up getting a generic one and cutting out the foam.
Or, any more info on what the cases might be? Make, model, inside diameter? I have little interest in the soft cases, so trying to see what else might work. I guess with the generic case, I wouldn't have to use the layout with the DT cases. Maybe add space for ammo boxes or something. I dunno.
Or, any more info on what the cases might be? Make, model, inside diameter? I have little interest in the soft cases, so trying to see what else might work. I guess with the generic case, I wouldn't have to use the layout with the DT cases. Maybe add space for ammo boxes or something. I dunno.
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Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the DT cases don't come with foam - you use the soft bag inside the case as the padding.
There's a store on eBay that sells hard cases for the DT guns with precut foam. Looks nice but not really less expensive than the DT case.
I went with with a Pelican Storm i3200 and cut the foam myself. Not as pretty but nobody's looking at the foam when you pull out that SRS.
I use a pelican 1720 with my covert, and I originally had just cut out the foam to fit different things, but I change the items I carry all the time so I just now use a soft case inside the pelican no foam.
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If you are just going to the range and back, the soft/hard combo is probably ideal. I went with a Pelican 1700 and cut foam, but I have flown with mine a couple of times now. Get a 1720, I am too tight on space with the 1700.. lol
This may have been covered in the past, but what slings are people using with their coverts?
Does anyone know a smith turning proof barrels for Desert Tech besides Special Purpose Rifles? I have tried to contact them by email and phone with no luck. Maybe they are shut down for vacation or something??
Thanks,
Todd
Thanks,
Todd
The weight savings I was quoted by SPR were essentially negligible so it isn't worth going down that route. That being said I decided to be a guinea pig for Frozen Fiber barrels. He is wrapping Benchmark barrels and used to work for Benchmark doing the same. Unfortunately the wait time is starting to get pretty dang long and I've been getting the "next month" treatment for months now. Last I heard the tennon was off to be threaded so take that for what it is worth again for weight savings. He thinks I might save 1/2 lb which is worth me trying it. However, I think you are way better off with aggressive fluting or a turning the barrel down to a lighter contour. I would have had a barrel months ago from Ty going this route, I'm sure.
I'd be curious if anyone has ever looked at the DT chassis and contemplated milling any weight savings cuts?
I'd be curious if anyone has ever looked at the DT chassis and contemplated milling any weight savings cuts?
I was thinking about trying to find someone who would modify the chassis including maybe somehow flaring the magwell and trimming the grip a little. Does anybody know someone who might take on the project?
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Get with Fireguyty he does great work and is awesome to deal with.
I'm not really sure where you could make any weight saving cuts. The receiver is aluminum and I'd be leery of removing any of it. You'd not save a lot of weight unless you removed a lot and at that point you'd probably remove more strength than you could afford. There isn't a lot of excess anything there to remove. Running with a short handguard and a lightened 16" barrels is about it along with the lightest bipod you can get.
Frank
This is very true. If you look up the density of aluminum you realize it would take a fair amount of material to equate to much savings and at that point strength could be compromised. I haven't had my skins off in a long time to look at it and think. A magnesium chassis could save some decent weight if DT had the time to pursue that. Not likely and probably not their goal with this rifle. I think it's possible to get about a 3 lb barrel if the contour is light enough. SRS Chassis weighs about 7lbs.
There are quite a few on this thread, and there is a list on DT's website:
https://deserttech.com/blog/classroom/related-resources/
Thanks for the info, but I guess I should have been more clear. I was wanting a proof carbon fiber wrapped barrel to save weight. From the sounds of things, there isn't much weight savings though. I thought SPR had an exclusive with proof for the C/F barrels.
Todd
I ordered a barrel from Chris that was supposed to be done in 2-3 months. I have been waiting over 6 months now. He said he has the blank but is having trouble getting the resin he needs. Starting to wonder if I will ever get it.
When I was looking into it a proof barrel from special purpose rifle, in 338 it was going to weigh 4oz less than a factory desert tech 338 barrel. They have 1" more shank than needed on there proof contour so there could be a little more weight saved there. 1" of shank would maybe weigh 3-4oz I am guessing.
The barrel I have ordered from Chris at Frozen fiber is a 338, 27" finished length, 6" fluted shank, 1.250 to 0.9 straight taper. If I ever get it I will post what it weighs in at.
He told me the same about the resin a few months ago, but then I assumed he got it because as of May 22nd the barrel was off getting the tennon fluted and that was the final step. I guess we will see, I think I've been waiting about 8 months.
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Yikes, not good. Sounds like a bit of story telling is going on. My fingers are crossed that he comes though with a good product.
Special Purpose Rifles posted on FB a while back the weight difference of a factory contour 26" .338 LM barrel versus the 27" Proof .338 LM barrel which was 13.4 oz. Now where the weight savings is, if you were to get the same straight taper contour and compare the two, then there would be a considerable weight savings.
Link to FB Post
Hmm, 13.4oz is significant. I wonder if they got more aggressive with their profiling? My quote was given to me almost a year ago, but I think it was on Scout so i can't dig it up. I thought it was only like 2 or 3 oz at the most in savings so I didn't pursue it any further.
I talked to them on the phone 6 months ago and they said 4oz, but like I said there shank was 1" longer than needed. They said there were going to look at not adding that inch and they may have shaved a little more steel off the blank before it gets wrapped.
From talking to Chris at frozen fiber, having a bigger contour adds very little weight if it is built up with carbon fiber. Its how much steel you remove from the blank that makes the big weight difference.
Count me as interested too.
Same here
I wrote Mark and here's his reply:
"At this time we have the project on hold. The reasons why is because we are moving into a new facility and have put our time and financial resources into that as well as needing to start another batch of Right Hand conversion kits. I have a left handed chassis and the plans of executing it, we just need to let the dust settle and get moved into our new shop which will free us up on both accounts. We do want to get this to market as soon as we can."
i can't argue with his reasoning.
"At this time we have the project on hold. The reasons why is because we are moving into a new facility and have put our time and financial resources into that as well as needing to start another batch of Right Hand conversion kits. I have a left handed chassis and the plans of executing it, we just need to let the dust settle and get moved into our new shop which will free us up on both accounts. We do want to get this to market as soon as we can."
i can't argue with his reasoning.
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I am trying to decide on what powder to try first in a 338 lapua AI. Looking for input on what guys have had the best luck with or worst luck with in there 338 lapua's or LAI's shooting 300 grainers. I got a good deal on some US869. I also have retumbo and H1000. I just received an email that N570 is back in stock up here so that is an option. All suitable powders but I don't want to shoot my barrel out trying every powder. Who likes what in there srs
Yes, its because of the steel bolt running against the aluminum chassis. It will eventually stop, and the action will get a lot smoother. I remember reading on here that some users have used microslick in the raceway. I have not, but supposedly it helps.
Anyone know where I can get a bolt stop for SRS A-1 for a reasonable price (with shipping)?
There's only a handful of places I've found them on the inter-networked-webs and the cheapest with shipping is $36. And that's from EuroOptic who has been a hassle to deal with lately -- their system doesn't think my billing address matches my address on my CC (it does).
Now I know nothing Desert Tech is going to be cheap, but seems a bit much for that kind of part, and the shipping that these places charge for a tiny lightweight part is insane.
Going in a bit of a different direction: Anyone made a bolt stop themselves? In my ignorant brain, it seems like I could just wedge a chunk of rubber of certain length in there and it would do the same thing.
There's only a handful of places I've found them on the inter-networked-webs and the cheapest with shipping is $36. And that's from EuroOptic who has been a hassle to deal with lately -- their system doesn't think my billing address matches my address on my CC (it does).
Now I know nothing Desert Tech is going to be cheap, but seems a bit much for that kind of part, and the shipping that these places charge for a tiny lightweight part is insane.
Going in a bit of a different direction: Anyone made a bolt stop themselves? In my ignorant brain, it seems like I could just wedge a chunk of rubber of certain length in there and it would do the same thing.
The few shops I know off hand that sell DT products is Oakland Tactical, Bison Tactical, Primal Rights, and Special Purpose Rifles. Ive only ordered gear from Primal Rights and Bison Tactical though, and both were exceptional. Sometimes the additional dollar is worth it, plus most dealers already sell just below MSRP; if you notice all the prices are relatively the same, +/-1%. So youre not going to find a great deal on any DT product unless you wait for a sale.
Bad ass looking
