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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

I shot my Gen 1 .338LM conversion for almost 3 years without a problem, often shooting from 40-100 rounds over an afternoon. Then I moved to NZ where suppressors are unregulated and switched out all of my brakes to the QD brake. Then my collar and shoulder started hurting even after 20 rounds. The old brake was way more effective at managing recoil and made the hard buttplate a non-issue, in my opinion. Jumping over to the QD brake, the felt recoil was significant, to the point where the rifle was tough to shoot for an extended period of time. One of the local guys I've competed with got an SRS and the first thing he did was DIY a rubber buttplate. Personally, I've been holding out for when the A1 buttplate is available separately and working on a new .338 suppressor.

So in a nutshell, if you have an A1 then you should be fine with shooting .338LM regardless. If you have a Gen 1, then shoot it with the old style brake if you don't have access to a suppressor. Or make your own rubber plate ;)
 
I've run quite a few 338LM down the pipe in the gen 1 with the "meat tenderizer" and had no issues at all. I have the old brake and as Dogtown mentioned it works very well. I'm not too impressed with the new quick detach can brake. I find that tossing the old suppressor on my barrel makes it a pussycat and firing 200rds in less than a day left no lasting impressions despite the old buttpad. I don't use the brake much anymore.

On the other hand the soft pad on the HTI doesn't help much with the brake that comes on the .50 BMG barrel. Now that we have the suppressor done for the rifle however its back to pussycat status. I can't imagine shooting any of these without a can anymore. It makes life so much better for all involved.

Frank
 
Dogtown said:
Then I moved to NZ where suppressors are unregulated and switched out all of my brakes to the QD brake.
Click to expand...

Suppressors are unregulated? Is EVERYBODY an assassin in NZ? I've always heard that we have to deal with the NFA because otherwise it would be too easy for anybody to become an assassin and get away with it. I guess the gun blast noise is how most murders are solved.
 
Nah, it's a very hunting/target centric gun culture here, so suppressors are just seen as being polite. No paperwork is needed and you can build one on your own without any restrictions. However with those conditions and the rather frugal nature of Kiwis, you rarely find a can that's built to the same performance and quality you'd find in the States. They're nearly considered disposable items here, often going for $200-400 a piece. If you want a top quality one with cone baffles, welded core, fast attach system, etc - you'll generally need to have it custom made or make it yourself. I mostly see hunters running them as all of the competitive shooters, from service rifle clubs to target clubs, tend to prefer shooting without them because of mirage issues (and probably because they don't suppress a whole lot).
 
Can you tell I'm waiting on a can and think the process is ridiculous for somthing i want to protect my hearing:)
 
i just want to try one!! i have to move states to even try one, which i don't even know anyone with one. i bet their alot of fun!! they sure look dam freaking bitch n!!! hopefully someday..... or make one myself and keep lips locked. which doesn't even sound worth all that.
 
Dogtown said:
I guess it really depends on how badly you want it. Personally, the risk of jail time would make that thought go away really fast.
Click to expand...

LOLOL RIGHT!! which some aluminum is not worth steel bars/concrete walls..... just my thought at least. i may not wear my seat belt lol from time to time, but i look forward to moving from this state any how. for more then just being able to have one.
 
Twisted .308 said:
Hmmmmm, just sayin "...... Solvent Trap Adapters
Click to expand...
They should call them "Felony Generators."

Seriously folks... the government is completely full of shit by forcing us to go through what we do to get a suppressor, but they are worth their weight in gold. We have all kinds of them in stock, and can help you every step of the way. It's not worth risking your freedom over, when we can get one to you so simply.
 
Orkan, I don't know how many of your posts I have read, and learned from but it is a lot.

I don't know when you you put the new clickable banner in the bottom of your posts, but for the first time I clicked it and visited your sight. Very nice work man! Quality store and great articles.

Folks, these gentlemen with the gold names are VENDERS. Pay attention to the ones that constantly visit this thread and provide attention to the new guys with questions. These are the people who I spend my money with. The guys who give back. On this thread (off the top of my head) the ones that are always here and paying attention to the customers are (in no specific order) Orkan, RMW, and Oakland Tactical.

I am unsure how many of you introduce yourselves and say, "I have read every page of this thread and learned a lot", but it seems like very often. If you are doing this then consider the guys that have provided you with the information you desired before you make the purchase of your DTA. I learned of this rifle off of this thread several years ago, and I bought mine in the same fashion.

Next thing, please refrain from kicking the shit out of Nick and Russ when they pop in here. There are no other rifle builders with the exception of GAP have the owner of the company and his right hand dude check in on a regular basis. The rifle is the bomb, and is in DEMAND. That is the reason that you are waiting. Consider it a privilege to having access to THE GUYS, and keep it constructive. This way, we can continue to enjoy the input of the creator of the rifle that we all love.

Ok, sorry for the rant. I intended to just praise Orkan's site and it turned into this......my bad.

Ty
 
So I walked into the LGS almost 10 months to the day that I ordered a .375CT conversion for my HTI. The owner says something like, "how's it going? Jokingly I reply, "It'd be a lot better if you had a caliber conversion for me." He replies, "Well, you're in luck." and hands me a box with the conversion, and two boxes of factory ammunition. What a fine day, and it is not even Friday.




Hopefully, Some magic can happen on Sunday...
 
Thanks Fireguy! :) I'm lucky enough to have a great staff, and a fantastic customer base. We truly enjoy our work.

Just a heads up for everyone... we have a few hundred rounds of DTM 375CT ammo in stock. Get while the getting is good!
 
ney1 said:
We will have a LH model but the market spike postponed it as we caught back up on orders.
Click to expand...

Holy hell man, how did i miss this?
ETA?
dont tease, i like many lefties are drooling if this happens
Can i preorder, plz, pretty plz
So this is for sure gonna happen, like this year?
 
Ughhh.....

What am I doing wrong? When I switched from my Gen1 to my A1 I went from using the DTA SRS mount and DTA Spacers to the DTA HTI mount and spacers. But when I try and install it all I can tighten the ring tops fully and the spacers don't touch each other an the scope is still loose???



 
Wow, that is strange. Do you have a set of micrometers? Measure the rings and the inserts.

That's all I got.....

Ty
 
ssnfa said:
Ughhh.....

What am I doing wrong? When I switched from my Gen1 to my A1 I went from using the DTA SRS mount and DTA Spacers to the DTA HTI mount and spacers. But when I try and install it all I can tighten the ring tops fully and the spacers don't touch each other an the scope is still loose???



Click to expand...

Mine did the same.

34 to 30mm
 
I have the same set-up.
My rings have a small gap between the top half and the base. I would put the ring tops on the base and measure the hole size to see if it is smaller than 34MM.
If the hole is smaller, the insert thickness must be to thin.
If needed I could measure the thickness of my inserts.
 
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"Next thing, please refrain from kicking the shit out of Nick and Russ when they pop in here. There are no other rifle builders with the exception of GAP have the owner of the company and his right hand dude check in on a regular basis. The rifle is the bomb, and is in DEMAND. That is the reason that you are waiting."

The one rifle platform I've been patiently waiting for and have been told was going to happen many times for over six years, has been a LH DTA.
I buy, build,already own and have owned LH rifles built with LH actions from GAP, Badger,Stiller,Bat,Panda,Borden, Savage + Remington.
Like all the quality firearms that are offered in LH versions, they are often sold before they make them. I know this would be the same for a LH DTA offered in any style.
I don't call it bitching, I call it a reminder that the LH crowd is still here waiting.
 
4Wmwogbl.jpg

300 yards
2.46 mph Wind
142.3 Wind angle
67.4 Altitude
65.66 F
30.16 in. Hg
48.3% Humidity

I think my A1 .260REM likes that Cor-Bon 123Gr the most!
 
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BozFour said:
Outstanding shooting Belgian.
Click to expand...
Thanks, the first group was at 1.1mil (as computed by the ballistic calculator) but it hit way too high so I had to bring it down to 0.5mil. Any idea what could cause such a big difference?
 
TheBelgian said:
Thanks, the first group was at 1.1mil (as computed by the ballistic calculator) but it hit way too high so I had to bring it down to 0.5mil. Any idea what could cause such a big difference?[/

Maybe the ballistics calculator was a bit off. Ive had a random first showing before with a solid group just off center high or low. Also semi off topic have you tried the 139 lapua scenar ? That is a nice round as well.
Click to expand...
 
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Bigsur said:
Hi all,

Long time reader, first time poster. I read the ENTIRE DTA thread before ordering my Covert with an 18” .308 Win and 26” .260 Rem barrels, both from SAC. Much thanks to everyone for all the great info that helped inform my decision.

I’m a long time shooter with all manner of plinking, hunting, skeet and 3Gun style rifle comp experience. I’ll be using the DTA as an all-around rifle for target shooting/load development, pig and antelope hunting and starting to get my feet wet in the long-range discipline – possibly some comps in the future.

Question on scope mounts – I’m using a loaner scope until I can locate a Kahles 624i with AMR reticle. I have one on backorder but am trying to line up a scope mount in the meantime. My checklist includes:

- I’m thinking 20 MOA of cant will be about right for my usage (100 yard zero, 1,200ish yard max).
- I typically like such low scope height that many guys can’t even shoot my rifles! I know DTA says 1.5 high for rings but I want to go as low as I can without the Kahles’ 56mm ocular bell touching the rail and of course some room for scope covers as well!
- I wouldn’t mind the occasional convenience of quick disconnect as long as I’m giving up almost nothing in stability

I’ve ruled out DTA HTI mount and SPUHR as low ROI for my needs and have ID’d these options:

- American Rifle Company M10 QD-L is 1.37 high with 20 MOA – Is it a good design? Will scope hit rail?
- Badger Unimount is 1.3 high with 20 MOA – Will scope hit rail at 1.3 high?
- Eurooptic Unimount is 1.4 high with 28 MOA – Great price and possibly a good compromise height. Is the quality there?

Does anyone have any info on minimum ring height for 56mm bell? Any other insights on pros/cons of these mount designs or any that I've missed? Thanks
Click to expand...

I have a 56mm scope on my SRS with a total diameter of 66 mm using an Aadmount w/a height of 1.45'. This clears the rail about 2.5 mm (.10") and puts my cheek hard against a pretty unforgiving surface. This is a real weld that leaves a bone bruise reminder for a few days after 20 plus rounds. For my face I could have used another .10"- .20"
 
is that barrt a .50? seeing that wall of force makes me need to look into barrt .416 just so i can say i own it lololol.......... how much diffrnce is it betwn the hti and the barrt?
 
BozFour said:
TheBelgian said:
Thanks, the first group was at 1.1mil (as computed by the ballistic calculator) but it hit way too high so I had to bring it down to 0.5mil. Any idea what could cause such a big difference?[/

Maybe the ballistics calculator was a bit off. Ive had a random first showing before with a solid group just off center high or low. Also semi off topic have you tried the 139 lapua scenar ? That is a nice round as well.
Click to expand...

I have! I started with the CorBon 139Gr as I thought the 1:8.5 twist would like a heavier bullet but I can't get my groups to be nearly as tight as with the 123Gr for some reason!
Click to expand...
 
TheBelgian said:
Thanks, the first group was at 1.1mil (as computed by the ballistic calculator) but it hit way too high so I had to bring it down to 0.5mil. Any idea what could cause such a big difference?
Click to expand...
My DTA is zeroed for the 22" 308 barrel. When I switch to the 26" 260 barrel the scope adjustment is 2.0 full mils up and 0.4 mils right (very consistent with barrel switch). The 338LM conversion has almost the exact same zero as the 308!

i shoot the Lapua 136gr L and 139gr with consistent results using 43.3gr of H4350. Hope this might help your accuracy, but can't beat your precision!
 
TheBelgian said:
BozFour said:
I have! I started with the CorBon 139Gr as I thought the 1:8.5 twist would like a heavier bullet but I can't get my groups to be nearly as tight as with the 123Gr for some reason!
Click to expand...

Its funny you say that, the most success i have seen is the 139 LS or the 120 Amax in factory loads. It seems the lighter grain does well with the .260 while the slighter higher 139LS does better in the 6.5 CM.
Click to expand...
 
TheBelgian said:
Thanks, the first group was at 1.1mil (as computed by the ballistic calculator) but it hit way too high so I had to bring it down to 0.5mil. Any idea what could cause such a big difference?
Click to expand...

What do you have your sight height set at on the DTA? Should be about 2.63". That is the first thing that pops into my head when your shorter range dope doesn't line up.

Ty
 
For the guys shooting 16" .308WIN Covert barrels, can you recommend a bullet besides 175SMKs for general purpose use? I shot the last of my 175s at a match over the weekend and my sources seem to be backordered for quite some time, so I'm now considering more widely available bullets here in NZ. Namely the 178 A-MAX or 185 Scenar, but I'm open to others. The 208 A-MAX is intriguing but I reckon it would be tough to get above 2400fps in such a short barrel. I'm after something good to 900m roughly.
 
I don't know about there but trying to get 208 Amax bullets here is next to impossible. Come to think of it, 178 Amax's aren't that easy to come by either.
 
Hornady components are prevalent here - I can get them from multiple sources. Sierra is a bit less prevalent, but most sources tend to carry the GameKing over the Match King. In fact, that's one of the most common limitations I come across in NZ: a completely reasonable preference for hunting-specific components. It's a large shooting community here with plenty of target and ELR shooters sprinkled amongst the hunting majority, but overall the population of the country is tiny compared to the States (4.5mil).

I'm just looking for an alternative to the 175SMK for target shooting out of the short Covert barrel and am curious what others have had success with?
 
fireguyty said:
What do you have your sight height set at on the DTA? Should be about 2.63". That is the first thing that pops into my head when your shorter range dope doesn't line up.

Ty
Click to expand...

I'm using a DT-HTI 40MOA mount so I assumed sight height was 1.5"
Another mistake I made was to not measure the Angle to Target (left it at zero). I went with the muzzle velocity written on the box and couldn't verify it with a chrony but I'm assuming the MV is fairly accurate for such a match ammo...

So if I compute a firing solution with 2.63" sight height and 10 deg. angle, I'm still at 0.8MIL... MV would have to be 3,300fps to get me to 0.5MIL elev.
 
TheBelgian said:
I'm using a DT-HTI 40MOA mount so I assumed sight height was 1.5"
Another mistake I made was to not measure the Angle to Target (left it at zero). I went with the muzzle velocity written on the box and couldn't verify it with a chrony but I'm assuming the MV is fairly accurate for such a match ammo...

So if I compute a firing solution with 2.63" sight height and 10 deg. angle, I'm still at 0.8MIL... MV would have to be 3,300fps to get me to 0.5MIL elev.
Click to expand...
Your sight height is measured from the centerline of your bore to the centerline of your scope. I have found that 2.63 has worked extremely well. The true test of this is to shoot period points on a paper at 10 yards (We do this in competition often). Your sight height is really important in this type of extreme close range shooting. I find that flat top designs like ours are much lower in elevation needs up until about 5-600 yards and then it gets to be about the same as a traditional rifle.

I can not tell you why you are getting only .5 mils of come up at 300 yards, but seriously doubt you are at 3300 as well. HOWEVER, your hard dope is your hard dope. Don't ever doubt or second guess that regardless of what your computer tells you.

By the way, damn nice shooting at 300 yards.

Ty
 
fireguyty said:
Your sight height is measured from the centerline of your bore to the centerline of your scope. I have found that 2.63 has worked extremely well. The true test of this is to shoot period points on a paper at 10 yards (We do this in competition often). Your sight height is really important in this type of extreme close range shooting. I find that flat top designs like ours are much lower in elevation needs up until about 5-600 yards and then it gets to be about the same as a traditional rifle.

I can not tell you why you are getting only .5 mils of come up at 300 yards, but seriously doubt you are at 3300 as well. HOWEVER, your hard dope is your hard dope. Don't ever doubt or second guess that regardless of what your computer tells you.

By the way, damn nice shooting at 300 yards.

Ty
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips and feedback! I also ran out of ammo to validate my zero back at 100 yards and I may have screwed that too :)
Part of the process of learning a new sport ahah!
 
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Free TAB Gear Rear bag and Free shipping with order.

Package discounts available for Hide members!
 
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TheBelgian said:
Thanks for the tips and feedback! I also ran out of ammo to validate my zero back at 100 yards and I may have screwed that too :)
Part of the process of learning a new sport ahah!
Click to expand...

Two more components to check, accidental swap of a G1 in place of a G7 B.C.
And do a double check on the actual click values of your scope by shooting and moving elevation a large amount.then measuring to see if the spacing on shots agree at the range you are shooting
 
M-54 said:
Two more components to check, accidental swap of a G1 in place of a G7 B.C.
Click to expand...
I ran the parameters for the Lapua Scenar 123Gr with a G7 BC instead of G1 but get the same firing solution... 0.8MIL

M-54 said:
And do a double check on the actual click values of your scope by shooting and moving elevation a large amount.then measuring to see if the spacing on shots agree at the range you are shooting
Click to expand...
How do you suggest I do this?
Thanks for the follow up!
 
Hey, Belgian! I'm shooting the 139gr Scenars in Lapua brass with a pretty light load (43.5gr of H4831SC, giving me about 2680 fps). They require about 1 mil of elevation at 300 yards, so your dope might not be far off if you're shooting light loads, too.
 
TheBelgian said:
I ran the parameters for the Lapua Scenar 123Gr with a G7 BC instead of G1 but get the same firing solution... 0.8MIL

How do you suggest I do this?
Thanks for the follow up!
Click to expand...

If you have a very steady rest you can hang a tape and adjust the elevation turret and say you have a Mil scope and you hang the tape at 100 meters, when you adjust up 1.0 mil it should be 1 cm of movement of the crosshair on the tape. Better to go large amounts though, like 10.0 mil. And see if you get 36 inches or 10 cm.
Also you have a nice accurate rifle so you can shoot your zero and then dial up and measure to see if you get the appropriate spread. Make sure if it is a mil scope you go 100 meters and if an MOA scope go 100 yards. Then in the ballistic program there hopefully is a place to input the click value of your scope if for some reason it elevates other than advertised. I have an older MOA scope that is 44 clicks for 10" per 100yrds. Not really 1/4 per as advertised
 
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