I built a suppressor for one....much more effective than the factory brake. Its a lot quieter as well.
Frank
Frank
- Thread starter patches
- Start date
Be careful with choosing a different brake. I tested MANY when we were developing the HTI and the blast angle on standard brakes is not going to make you happy.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
While searching for the price of the new A1 recoil pad assembly (found it by calling DTA) I stumbled upon another offering. It seems Precision Arms out of California (never heard of this company) has came out with an adjustable recoil pad assembly. Has anyone seen one of these in person? I don't shoot benchrest or anything and will be better served with the factory A1 unit but thought this offering looked interesting.
Last edited:
Do you have a favorite? I assume the current one is on there for suppressor reasons.....
I've touched off more .50 than I care to remember. My favorite is attached to a .375 barrel! That said, I am fine using the factory offering.
Russ
Hello all, I am contemplating buying a DTA Covert rifle in .338 Lapua and would Like some peoples input who own this set up.
I am planning on shooting suppressed 90% of the time but what worries me is with the 18" barrel/short forearm is the muzzle blast when unsuppressed going to mess with my scope? (My YHM can is rated to a 16" barrel)
Second question, has anyone noticed an accuracy loss with the 18" vs 26"? I'm not talking velocity I know this will be lower, I am talking group size.
Third question does anyone have a good spot to find loads built for the shorter barreled .338 Lapua?
4th is more of an opinion question, which will balance better a SRS w/suppressor or the covert W/suppressor?
Thanks,
Wes
I am planning on shooting suppressed 90% of the time but what worries me is with the 18" barrel/short forearm is the muzzle blast when unsuppressed going to mess with my scope? (My YHM can is rated to a 16" barrel)
Second question, has anyone noticed an accuracy loss with the 18" vs 26"? I'm not talking velocity I know this will be lower, I am talking group size.
Third question does anyone have a good spot to find loads built for the shorter barreled .338 Lapua?
4th is more of an opinion question, which will balance better a SRS w/suppressor or the covert W/suppressor?
Thanks,
Wes
Second question, has anyone noticed an accuracy loss with the 18" vs 26"? I'm not talking velocity I know this will be lower, I am talking group size.
Third question does anyone have a good spot to find loads built for the shorter barreled .338 Lapua?
I have a .338 Norma Magnum AI in a 22" barrel. Accuracy is not an issue at all! Shorter barrel less harmonics you are dealing with. As for loads. Do some OCW test to find what works for your gun. I don't own a covert but the SRS is sick
Third question does anyone have a good spot to find loads built for the shorter barreled .338 Lapua?
I have a .338 Norma Magnum AI in a 22" barrel. Accuracy is not an issue at all! Shorter barrel less harmonics you are dealing with. As for loads. Do some OCW test to find what works for your gun. I don't own a covert but the SRS is sick
You will need to check with your suppressor manufacturer if they are rated for an 18" 338LM. I know I while back someone was running a 16" or 18" 338LM out of a Covert and blew baffles out of a TBAC 338BA. Subsequently, TBAC added new application notes which states the 338LM must be a minimum of 20" to be warrantied.
"Application Notes - This suppressor was designed around the .338 Lapua Magnum in long-range applications. Minimum recommended barrel length is 20" for the 338BA. For .338 caliber cartridges, it is not recommended to exceed 100 grains of powder. For .30 caliber cartridges, it is not recommended to exceed 90 grains of powder. For 7mm cartridges, not to exceed 80 grains. The 338BA is not rated for the .30-378. For questions about a particular rifle/load combination please contact us. "
"Application Notes - This suppressor was designed around the .338 Lapua Magnum in long-range applications. Minimum recommended barrel length is 20" for the 338BA. For .338 caliber cartridges, it is not recommended to exceed 100 grains of powder. For .30 caliber cartridges, it is not recommended to exceed 90 grains of powder. For 7mm cartridges, not to exceed 80 grains. The 338BA is not rated for the .30-378. For questions about a particular rifle/load combination please contact us. "
As you can see I have noted that Yankee hill warranties my Chrome Moly .338 Phantom all the way down to 16". I have called and confirmed this.
Lol!! I bet that .375 is way more pleasant...
375ct recoils less than srs 338lm. It is really great!
Waveslayer,
The 18" 338lm barrel was designed to shoot subsonic loads with great accuracy. It will shot full power loads but it is harder to fine tune because so much Unburned powder is exiting the bore. We haven't had any baffle failures on our dtss silencers on the 18" barrels. A monocore system is a stronger baffle stack by nature.
The 18" 338lm barrel was designed to shoot subsonic loads with great accuracy. It will shot full power loads but it is harder to fine tune because so much Unburned powder is exiting the bore. We haven't had any baffle failures on our dtss silencers on the 18" barrels. A monocore system is a stronger baffle stack by nature.
Are you guys making the .338 Norma Magnum AI barrels at all? I will need a replacement in the future
Snaps! Look what I just saw on the DT facebook page.
That appears to be a mirror image of another picture on their page not a picture of an actual lefty.
edit: By the way I wanted to say that .260 barrel you did for me is a heck of a lot more accurate than me. My best group with it is 0.328"
So...Thanks!
Last edited:
Damn it! You are right and I am stupid. I guess I should have read over the whole thing better.
Anyway, great to hear on the .260! Keep up the good shooting.
Ty
Hmm... that picture looks familiar.
... Oh, it's because I took it. The rifle did have the bolt on the right side at that time though.
... Oh, it's because I took it. The rifle did have the bolt on the right side at that time though.
Just a heads up guys: I talked with Elite Iron this week, and they're really close on a suppressor that will work with the HTI brakes. We'll be getting setup as a dealer with them and with luck, will have some 375CT cans in a few months.
What a concept, a lefty DT Rifle !
I've been trying to get the 100,000 signature's needed for them to make one !
I was even going to buy an evil right handed version, but I just can't settle for less.
UGH.... My wife is gonna really love you guys.....
Question for you smarties....I have a covert with a 338 Norma Magnum barrel. I used a Hornady overall length gauge to determine the depth to the lands with 300 gr SMKs. This cartridge was designed to keep the 300 SMK out of the powder column. If I seat to max length touching the lands, there is lots of extra room in the magazine, the bottom of the bullet is about where the shoulder starts. Why is the DTA factory barrel throat so short? Is it so there is plenty of metal to use up as you "chase the lands"? I've never burned up a 338 barrel. Not sure how fast they go.
The picture of the bullet that is seated deeper is touching the lands. The longer one is seated so the bullet bearing surface/boat tail junction is 0.100 below the neck/ shoulder junction. Obviously I can't use the longer one. I just loaded a dummy round for reference.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The picture of the bullet that is seated deeper is touching the lands. The longer one is seated so the bullet bearing surface/boat tail junction is 0.100 below the neck/ shoulder junction. Obviously I can't use the longer one. I just loaded a dummy round for reference.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
... so long as she coughs up the check book, I love her too.
hahaha I wouldn't say it's throated "short," but rather throated for most "factory" ammo out there.
What you are looking to do requires a custom chamber, and that's something we can do for you in a custom barrel very easily. We can also tune other aspects of your barrel to your liking as well.
I may have to go that route. I watched your videos of TS customs and was very impressed.
I just thought this barrel was odd because most of the time when I seat a bullet to the lands ( on a new barrel ) for initial load development, I'm usually seating the bullet far out into the neck and have to switch to a heavier for caliber bullet. Example I started with 175 smk for the 308 Sako and eventually had to switch to the 180 smk because it was longer. Thanks for the help Orkan.
Btw that camo soft case for the DTA I got from you is great!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I just thought this barrel was odd because most of the time when I seat a bullet to the lands ( on a new barrel ) for initial load development, I'm usually seating the bullet far out into the neck and have to switch to a heavier for caliber bullet. Example I started with 175 smk for the 308 Sako and eventually had to switch to the 180 smk because it was longer. Thanks for the help Orkan.
Btw that camo soft case for the DTA I got from you is great!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Anytime! Anything I can do, just shout.
OK folks, asking for a little advice here. I just bought a new covert chassis to add more versatility. I went to put it together yesterday and found that the safety will not move rearward to put it into the safe mode.
I put a covert 308 conversion kit into it, trigger is great, everything seems to work fine except for the safety. The safety moves slightly rearward but then seems to be hitting something.
I am getting ready for some hunting and really do not want to send it back to Utah if it is something that I can fix. I am not a master gunsmith, but have good tools and have fairly good skills.
Has anyone here had this issue? My first though is to just remove the skins and see if some foreign object is blocking the safety mechanism.
Advice appreciated.
Thanks
I put a covert 308 conversion kit into it, trigger is great, everything seems to work fine except for the safety. The safety moves slightly rearward but then seems to be hitting something.
I am getting ready for some hunting and really do not want to send it back to Utah if it is something that I can fix. I am not a master gunsmith, but have good tools and have fairly good skills.
Has anyone here had this issue? My first though is to just remove the skins and see if some foreign object is blocking the safety mechanism.
Advice appreciated.
Thanks
thank you so much for the pm stephensdwinn
backed the creep off just slightly as you suggested and all is perfect!
very much appreciated
backed the creep off just slightly as you suggested and all is perfect!
very much appreciated
No problem, I'm here to help.
Done and done.
Got my SRS 338LM together. I used a DTI mount with a 40 degree cant. The scope is the Nightforce BEAST. I put the sunshade on and mounted the NF caps. It leaves about a 1/16" gap. I like it.
I've been told it will zero at 100 yards. Looking at that cant though, I'm not so sure. I'll keep ya'll posted. Toast Out.
I've been told it will zero at 100 yards. Looking at that cant though, I'm not so sure. I'll keep ya'll posted. Toast Out.
You'll have no problem zeroing at 100yds.
Good looking rifle Toast
I had a car in high school that was jacked up in the ass end like that !
40 moa not 40 degree. Yes they will zero at 100 yds.
I wish someone made a 60MOA 1 piece mount to mount my ATACR on my srs may as well use all of the elevation adjustment. I also have one on another rifle that has a murphy precision 60MOA rail and it zeros out at 100 yards with 8MOA left over. Does anyone possibly have an extra 70in/lb torque wrench they may have picked up you would like to sell?
Nice. Any .338 Norma Magnum AI barrels for sale?
My youngest son trying out my SRS in 6.5x47 on steel @ 553 yds...volatile wind conditions, but still did well.
An experienced veteran, he loved the system
An experienced veteran, he loved the system
I installed the A-1 buttpad on my Gen 2 SRS tonight. It was so easy to do. 10 mins with a dremel and a marker and it was ready to install. I was lazy and didn't even take the skins off. A steady hand was very helpful in making it look good.
This was one improvement to the SRS that I have been looking forward to for years.
This was one improvement to the SRS that I have been looking forward to for years.
None finished, but we can get one chambered up for you pretty easily. I've not run that cartridge before, so no guarantee it will run from the magazine, but if you want one we can do one!
I have one now and it runs beautifully out of the standard Magnum mag. I was just curious because I have been shooting mine a lot and wanted to know how hard a replacement barrel would be to get. Thanks!
Idea! Official DTA SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
Nice job on the buttpad! I got to do that. Anything different you would do on the install now that you've done it?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Nice job on the buttpad! I got to do that. Anything different you would do on the install now that you've done it?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Take the skins off. You can probably get the cut a little cleaner.
Since the Gen. 1 recoil pad assembly didn't have the tab on top I think I'll just remove it when the new assembly gets here. That way I don't have to modify my skins, or order a new bolt stop (should have read more before ordering) lol.
Edit: A question, has anyone had trouble getting a good eye relief when using a Bushnell XRS in a Spuhr mount on their SRS while shooting prone? Kneeling, setting, or shooting off hand I don't have a problem. It's like my big melon just lays too far forward when shooting prone with my natural point of aim. If I go one slot more I'll be clamping onto the forend and I don't think that is optimal. I was wandering if it's just me or has anyone else thought they should have went with the cantilever mount?
Edit: A question, has anyone had trouble getting a good eye relief when using a Bushnell XRS in a Spuhr mount on their SRS while shooting prone? Kneeling, setting, or shooting off hand I don't have a problem. It's like my big melon just lays too far forward when shooting prone with my natural point of aim. If I go one slot more I'll be clamping onto the forend and I don't think that is optimal. I was wandering if it's just me or has anyone else thought they should have went with the cantilever mount?
Last edited:
Toast,
Have you had a chance to get out with your Beast yet? Curious to see how it performed. Nice looking rifle you have !
Have you had a chance to get out with your Beast yet? Curious to see how it performed. Nice looking rifle you have !
<a href="http://delivery.tacticalrepublic.com/w/1.0/rc?cs=513e0e98d18ac&cb=INSERT_RANDOM_NUMBER_HERE" ><img src="http://delivery.tacticalrepublic.com/w/1.0/ai?auid=112935&cs=513e0e98d18ac&cb=INSERT_RANDOM_NUMBER_HERE" border="0" alt=""></a>
Im planning on getting a DTA SRS and before I lay down the cash I have a few questions if you guys don't mind.
1. How is it to hold and carry while hunting?
2. How is it to shoot off hand?
3. How much poi difference is there between barrels? Will I need two scopes in different mounts?
4. Im looking at a 6.5x47 and a 300win. Can I shoot lighter slugs out of there barrels?
5. Does euro optics give any LE discount on one?
6. IS IT WORTH THE CASH???
Im planning on getting a DTA SRS and before I lay down the cash I have a few questions if you guys don't mind.
1. How is it to hold and carry while hunting?
2. How is it to shoot off hand?
3. How much poi difference is there between barrels? Will I need two scopes in different mounts?
4. Im looking at a 6.5x47 and a 300win. Can I shoot lighter slugs out of there barrels?
5. Does euro optics give any LE discount on one?
6. IS IT WORTH THE CASH???
1) I hunt with my DTA frequently (all the time) and I find it to be easy to carry. I use TAB Gear slings, and that sure does help for the long hauls.
2) Extremely easy to shoot off-hand. Balances extremely well.
3) Usually not more than .3 -.8 mils between barrels. Worst one I ever saw was 1.5 mils, and that is unusual... but still easy to deal with.
4) Sure you can. If you want to tailor things more specifically, we can do custom barrels for you to any configuration you like.
5) Not sure... but we do!
6) Yes. Absolutely. Unequivocally. Yes. Been shooting DTA's for 5 years and never once felt cheated out of my money. More importantly than my opinion... neither have any of our customers!
2) Extremely easy to shoot off-hand. Balances extremely well.
3) Usually not more than .3 -.8 mils between barrels. Worst one I ever saw was 1.5 mils, and that is unusual... but still easy to deal with.
4) Sure you can. If you want to tailor things more specifically, we can do custom barrels for you to any configuration you like.
5) Not sure... but we do!
6) Yes. Absolutely. Unequivocally. Yes.
Been shooting DTA's for 5 years and never once felt cheated out of my money. More importantly than my opinion... neither have any of our customers! Last edited:
I too was on the Fence , Talking to Orkan he convinced me of the many Pros and very few Cons of the system . I wanted Grey Skins ...(not offered by DTA) ... No Problem ! Barrel profile to work with my suppressor...No Problem ! It is a change from my AICS Chassis but very friendly to get used to , I'm sure they are not for everyone but I'm glad I made the change !
Blaze Target Flash
Feel free to email me Dogtown and I'll sort you out with another sensor at a good price, don't like to think that you have a kid that you can't use.
Stu
[email protected]
Feel free to email me Dogtown and I'll sort you out with another sensor at a good price, don't like to think that you have a kid that you can't use.
Stu
[email protected]
Last edited:
