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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Here I was just assuming it was float values ;)

I think that is indeed the case but they seemed motivated to change it, which will make the unit very handy for SRS shooters as you would not have to adjust your turrets every time you changed barrels. The offsets would be integrated into the final ballistic solution, so you would just dial accordingly.
 
Here I was just assuming it was float values ;)

I think that is indeed the case but they seemed motivated to change it, which will make the unit very handy for SRS shooters as you would not have to adjust your turrets every time you changed barrels. The offsets would be integrated into the final ballistic solution, so you would just dial accordingly.

You are probably right... I shouldn't post while half asleep next time xD

Either way, that does seem to solve the biggest issue with switchbarrels. Now they should probably add labels somehow, so you won't accidentally pick the 300 gr Berger load data for your 300 gr SMK load.

I was actually working on adding the GNU Ballistics Library as addon for Node.js (for my blog), but that's gone now, my hard drive head crashed, and I hadn't made a backup yet.

Sent from my GT-S6810P using Tapatalk
 
I apologize in advance, didn't want to go through several hundred posts to find an answer.

What's the best mount for a NF BEAST on a SRS? I will also be using the BEAST on some other sweet builds I have. I currently use NF rings, 5.5x22x56 NF and carry a torque wrench so I can mount it on my AR's and a few other toys. Any thoughts guys?
 
The DTA mount is the best in my opinion. It's made from the same material as the chassis, has an integral level, 6-screws for holding power, and is light weight yet extremely strong.

40MOA slope is what I'd use for that scope. We have them in stock and ready to go! DTA 1-Piece Scope Mount

Spuhr makes a nice mount too... if you like oddball slope and height, and want to hang all manner of other crap off the top of your scope. Yet I see no reason why we need to be supporting european companies when the maker of our rifles stepped up with a quality mount at a lower price.
 
The DTA mount is the best in my opinion. It's made from the same material as the chassis, has an integral level, 6-screws for holding power, and is light weight yet extremely strong.

40MOA slope is what I'd use for that scope. We have them in stock and ready to go! DTA 1-Piece Scope Mount

Spuhr makes a nice mount too... if you like oddball slope and height, and want to hang all manner of other crap off the top of your scope. Yet I see no reason why we need to be supporting european companies when the maker of our rifles stepped up with a quality mount at a lower price.
Orkan, you're the man! My SRS is already Tacricool without all the trinkets
 
I just received my SRS last week and I'll get it to the range this weekend. Still waiting on the Razor 4.5-27, so my old PST 6-24 will be some use for the next month or two. Big thanks to Eurooptic, the whole transaction went as smooth as glass.
 
The DTA mount is the best in my opinion. It's made from the same material as the chassis, has an integral level, 6-screws for holding power, and is light weight yet extremely strong.

40MOA slope is what I'd use for that scope. We have them in stock and ready to go! DTA 1-Piece Scope Mount

Spuhr makes a nice mount too... if you like oddball slope and height, and want to hang all manner of other crap off the top of your scope. Yet I see no reason why we need to be supporting european companies when the maker of our rifles stepped up with a quality mount at a lower price.

A DTA mount left nasty ring marks on my Premier. My Sphur leaves nothing.

I believe in buying American as well.....which is why I now buy American Rifle Company. Best engineered rings available.
 
How about the nightforce unimount? Anyone running one on their dta? I like the price of them even better
I currently run one on my SRS. I have the 5.5-22x56mm . I love it. Light and I have had zero issues with it.
 
first quick range session today. Factory 6.5c Hornady 140g loads off of an Atlas & monopod, with my very questionable scope setup (6-24 FFP PST in an ADM QD while I wait on the Razor II/spuhr). no wind to speak of, from a bench at 100 yards. best 5 shot group measured .45" edge to edge - which by my maths is about .2 MOA. It's probably the best group I've ever shot (the worst was .80" by my Dad after 10 rounds to get everything on paper), and considering it's a brand new rifle with factory ammo, I'm absolutely thrilled...

I can't wait to see what this little rifle can do with 140gr Berger handloads and a solid optic setup.
 
schlaiek, why do you say "questionable scope setup"? I have been running that same setup on two of my xlr's and have nothing but good things to say about that setup.
 
Does anyone know when DT is going to offer the A1 handguard for individual sale? I assume they're caught up on the backlog they had.
 
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How about the nightforce unimount? Anyone running one on their dta? I like the price of them even better

I went with the Eurooptic Alloy Unimount 34mm 28 Moa 1.4" high for my Kahles 624i: Eurooptic Alloy Unimount 34mm 28 Moa 1.4" high with bubble level

DTA and Sphur were in the running but I like a little lower cheek weld so went with the 1.4" height of the Euro. The lens cap just barely slides between the top rail and the objective bell and my peepers line up right in the sweet spot.

Not detecting any problems with the mount and the fit and finish seem great. So far, so good and save a few bucks too.
 
schlaiek, why do you say "questionable scope setup"? I have been running that same setup on two of my xlr's and have nothing but good things to say about that setup.

while I really like ADM QD mounts for carbine optics, I just don't know that they offer the same stability of a traditional mount or rings. that, and I bodged the job of mounting the scope true. I don't have a proper vice to stabilize the DTA to determine side-to-side level, and I mounted the scope canted. for 100 yards BR, it's pretty trivial, but before I take the scope out to longer range I need a better solution. I previously had the PST on a bolt gun and the Seekins rings do not work with the monolithic top rail on the DTA, and the ADM QD was all I had on hand in 30 mm.
 
Yes, it's been done. I think SAC has done a few conversions with the Proof Research Carbon Wraps.
 
I had that same thing happen with one of the old steel mounts.

The new aluminum mounts seem to be a lot better made. Haven't had anything bad happen with them. Very high quality.

Ahhhhhhhhh............ Didn't know there was a new one.

Now they just need to finally release that 10 round mag. I sold my SRS cause that round restriction cost me too many points in matches. I'll buy another once they resolve that.
 
Good morning all,
This is my first post on SH, I want to share a great experience I recently had in a transaction with Orkan.
I have had my SRS A-1 since March chambered in .338Lm. After lots of consideration I decided that I wanted a 6.5 Creedmoor conversion kit. I have read all 143 pages of the DTA thread on here and time and again I see great responses and advice from Orkan so I gave him a call, he was very friendly and informative and steered me towards one of his TS customs barrels. The conversion kit shipped out the same day I order it and showed up on Thursday just in time for me to shoot for the weekend. My first plan was to work some loads up for a ladder test but with my dwindling supply of H4350 and a very thirsty FNH spr .300 wsm i figured I would start break in with some factory 140's. This barrel is very accurate, first day I shot a group that measured a hair over .25 and many groups under .5. The groups kept getting tighter and tighter till I ran out of ammo!
Over all I am very pleased and want to give a huge shout out to Orkan, he has earned all of my future business!
 
Thanks Hondo! Too kind sir! I'm happy that everything is going along good. Running a 6.5CM out of ammo is pretty easy to do. They are just SOOOO fun to shoot!

After a hundred rounds or so of factory ammo gets things smoothed out... develop a load for it. Then I'd be surprised if you saw a group over .25"! If you need any help with load data or anything, just give me a call. :)
 
Here is my $6.54 solution to having a $1300 barrel that won't fit in my DTA covert hard case. The case holds one long barrel and one 16" barrel (gun mounted) but after that you have the option of either cutting the foam for the barrel real deep and stacking them metal on metal (with something in between them) or just having the one extra barrel.

I figured while I only have three barrels this would work. If I get one or two more I will probably have a custom ballistic nylon barrel bag made.






Who makes custom bags, or do your own?
 
I had that same thing happen with one of the old steel mounts.

The new aluminum mounts seem to be a lot better made. Haven't had anything bad happen with them. Very high quality.

Greg
Will these new mounts fit the USO TPAL 5-25x58. Was it the old mount I got earlier this year that didn't have enough room? How much of a difference in weight is there with the aluminum

Jeff
 
Jeff,
They still do not fit the USO scopes with the longer turret housing. Not real sure why they didn't address this, as they would only need to be about 1/4" longer in the middle if memory serves.

The old 4-screw steel mounts weigh 7.2oz, and the new 6-screw aluminum mounts weigh 8.4oz, and are 50BMG rated.
 
Has anyone ever sent their bolt off to get the firing pin hole bushed? Every since I took delivery of my rifle I've noticed that I get excessive cratering on my primers. I've heard this is common on Remington 700's and the cost to fit the bushing is quiet inexpensive compared to a new bolt. I was just wandering if it would also be a good fix for a loose SRS bolt.

Edit: Here's a shot of a box of Hornady Custom that I ran through the SRS.

nfnnvb.jpg
 
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Is this a SRS or SRS-A1?

Most of the newer bolts don't do much cratering. To answer your question however; yes, lots of people have used bushings in their SRS bolts to eliminate the cratering. It's worked great for those that did it.
 
Is this a SRS or SRS-A1?

Most of the newer bolts don't do much cratering. To answer your question however; yes, lots of people have used bushings in their SRS bolts to eliminate the cratering. It's worked great for those that did it.

My gun is one of the original Gen 1, I think it's within the first 100 chassis' produced if I'm reading correctly on how the serial numbers went.

Edit: Do you know, or recommend, any certain smith to do the bushing?
 
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I'm not sure who does them. I've just seen them done before, and have seen several pictures of them done.

I'm pretty sure that DTA bolts are nitrided, which will definitely make it hard on whoever is doing the cutting!
 
Hey guys, if you call me up, make sure you don't sound like a telemarketer... I'll treat you badly until I find otherwise, as I did to the nice gentleman I talked to a bit ago. (sorry about that) ;)

"Hey Greg this is so-and-so from the Hide" is always a good way to start! :D
 
My old-style 308 bolt (non-removeable bolt head) is bushed by DTA. How I know is when I first got it I did a lot of dry firing and the bushing fell out; tapped it back in with no issues. I'd call DTA and see if they can bush your bolt for you.
 
Has anyone ever sent their bolt off to get the firing pin hole bushed? Every since I took delivery of my rifle I've noticed that I get excessive cratering on my primers. I've heard this is common on Remington 700's and the cost to fit the bushing is quiet inexpensive compared to a new bolt. I was just wandering if it would also be a good fix for a loose SRS bolt.

Edit: Here's a shot of a box of Hornady Custom that I ran through the SRS.

nfnnvb.jpg

I have a brand new SRS-A1 that I just took tho the range Saturday in .338 Lapua and I am having this same cratering "issue" Is cratering like this acceptable or can it be dangerous?
 
My old-style 308 bolt (non-removeable bolt head) is bushed by DTA. How I know is when I first got it I did a lot of dry firing and the bushing fell out; tapped it back in with no issues. I'd call DTA and see if they can bush your bolt for you.

Thanks for the heads up!

I have a brand new SRS-A1 that I just took tho the range Saturday in .338 Lapua and I am having this same cratering "issue" Is cratering like this acceptable or can it be dangerous?

From what I've read it usually only poses problems when inching toward your upper limits on pressure. I've also read many think it's completely acceptable and not to worry about it.

Edit: Greg beat me to the info
 
Ok, thanks for the lightning fast reply haha.

Also Are your 70 Lbs torque wrenchs going on sale anytime soon? ;)

I was going to order one but the shipping price was rather shocking. :eek:
 
Thinking of getting a hard case for my covert, I'm a cheapo and thinking of getting a pelican and cutting myself, anyone have one they want to part with reasonably
 
Ok, thanks for the lightning fast reply haha.

Also Are your 70 Lbs torque wrenchs going on sale anytime soon? ;)

I was going to order one but the shipping price was rather shocking. :eek:
UPS are assholes that way. :( Our cart software polls our UPS acct when calculating shipping. It's always charging us more than it quotes and we just deal with it... but it KILLS people on small items.

Just place your order and put in comments that you talked to Greg, and he said shipping would be $5. We'll throw it in a USPS flat rate box and fire it out to ya. :)
 
Hello,

I'm looking at buying a Covert with 16" .308 barrel. Does anybody know if a AAC 7.62-SDN-6 can will fit using an AAC muzzle brake, or will the hand guard length force me to use a Delta P adapter? I'd prefer to avoid an adapter if possible.

Thanks!
 
You could get your DTA from us, and get a custom barrel with an allowance made for your brake.

I'm not sure if that brake/can works with the regular handguard or not. We typically add 1/2" in length to all custom covert barrels to avoid this.
 
Hello,

I'm looking at buying a Covert with 16" .308 barrel. Does anybody know if a AAC 7.62-SDN-6 can will fit using an AAC muzzle brake, or will the hand guard length force me to use a Delta P adapter? I'd prefer to avoid an adapter if possible.

Thanks!

On a 16" 308 barrel, the shoulder of the barrel is right at the end of the handguard. So if you are using a AAC 51T brake you should have no issues.
 
UPS are assholes that way. :( Our cart software polls our UPS acct when calculating shipping. It's always charging us more than it quotes and we just deal with it... but it KILLS people on small items.

Just place your order and put in comments that you talked to Greg, and he said shipping would be $5. We'll throw it in a USPS flat rate box and fire it out to ya. :)

Thanks and as always Greg your the best! Great customer service!
 
I am looking at buying a set of gen1 fde skins for my gen 2. Dta mentions something on their website about a difference between gen 1 and 2 skins and the way the barrel indexes, pin vs feed ramp. Will gen 1 skins fit my gen 2, all other things equal? Thanks, Greg
 
I am looking at buying a set of gen1 fde skins for my gen 2. Dta mentions something on their website about a difference between gen 1 and 2 skins and the way the barrel indexes, pin vs feed ramp. Will gen 1 skins fit my gen 2, all other things equal? Thanks, Greg
The skins should have no problem fitting. The change was internal, in regard to feed ramp indexing vs small pin.

On a 16" 308 barrel, the shoulder of the barrel is right at the end of the handguard. So if you are using a AAC 51T brake you should have no issues.
... until you go to put a suppressor cover on. ;)

Thanks and as always Greg your the best! Great customer service!
Anytime. We do what we can. :)
 
I am looking at buying a set of gen1 fde skins for my gen 2. Dta mentions something on their website about a difference between gen 1 and 2 skins and the way the barrel indexes, pin vs feed ramp. Will gen 1 skins fit my gen 2, all other things equal? Thanks, Greg

You will have to take some material off the inside of the Gen1 skins for them to fit a Gen2.
 
14ebdc4.png


The area I have in blue is solid on a gen1 set of skins. A dremel and 5 mins of your time and you can
make the notch for the feed ramp opening.