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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Hey folks, was wondering if you could help me. I just received my new hti with a 50cal conversion. When I installed the barrel I felt it fall into the alignment tang in the receiver and everything felt good. The issue is the muzzle brake is not clocked correctly. It is about an 1/8 of a turn off. (Ports are not level). The muzzle brake feels tight and all. I was wondering if I need to remove it and add shims to properly clock it? It is a new factory barrel and I would have thought it would be clocked correctly from the factory. Also, there were no shims with the rifle which makes me wonder even more. Any help would be great !
thx
Chris
 
Schultztec said:
Hey folks, was wondering if you could help me. I just received my new hti with a 50cal conversion. When I installed the barrel I felt it fall into the alignment tang in the receiver and everything felt good. The issue is the muzzle brake is not clocked correctly. It is about an 1/8 of a turn off. (Ports are not level). The muzzle brake feels tight and all. I was wondering if I need to remove it and add shims to properly clock it? It is a new factory barrel and I would have thought it would be clocked correctly from the factory. Also, there were no shims with the rifle which makes me wonder even more. Any help would be great !
thx
Chris
Click to expand...

It should have been factory set from DT, they are shimmed level there. If it is out of time, then the best thing would be to have them time it properly. The tools and finesse it takes to do this aren't worth your time.
 
Not that hard to install and time a brake with a barrel vice and set of peel washers
 
I think orkan is gonna be happy
 

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Barrels are expendable. Especially when you have smith as a next door neighbor. If this 22 Creed gets any more popular I’m gonna have to get one!
 
I’d like to say thanks to sonic crack. The adjustable butt stock showed up the other day. I don’t have a pic. Need to learn pics on non scout format. The new butt is nice, well built , fits good ,
 
have a question mounted 56mm objective scope on a 20 MOA mount to DTA SRS, he scope is clear but the scope cap is touching the from rail ( not the barrel) is that an issue ?? any suggestions on a high 20 MOA mount ? do you need a 20 MOA cant for shooting 338LPM with scope having upto 100 MOA elevation adjustment ?
 
prashants17 said:
have a question mounted 56mm objective scope on a 20 MOA mount to DTA SRS, he scope is clear but the scope cap is touching the from rail ( not the barrel) is that an issue ?? any suggestions on a high 20 MOA mount ? do you need a 20 MOA cant for shooting 338LPM with scope having upto 100 MOA elevation adjustment ?
Click to expand...

I have a Spuhr 4902 that is a 30 moa and it clears a 7-35x56 with scope caps by about 3mm. It’s perfect.
 
Question, has anyone messed with single shot on there dt srs or covert ? I mean using a large cartridge that wouldn’t work using the magnum magazine. I was thinking something like a 375 -338lm / 375 Allen express 350gr Smk with a heavy 30’’ or so barrel and large brake. The dt hti would be the platform choice for the heavy’s , but was just wondering, and not trying to get injured or ruin a great rifle.
 
orkan said:
We've done some single shot configurations for folks. Works plenty well if one-at-a-time is what you're after.
Click to expand...

Interested what calibers you feel would work in the SRS on larger the factory offerings. Obviously to include single fed to make it even possible. I love the versatility of this platform.
 
Took the SRS out today after not being behind it for almost 9 months. I've had several different scopes sitting on it and made several barrel swaps in the meantime.
I decided to use the Z6i for hunting this year, so went to the range to zero it. I had a hard time getting it zeroed so threw the ol 624i back on it- am right back on the bullseye with the first shot, and went about .6 MOA for a 5 round group, again, not being behind it for a while and it was about 35 degrees out.
Man I love this platform and the return to zero is simply awesome.
 


I hadn't shot my SRS a1 for quite some time, either. My 260 barrel started opening up at the time I took it out. I have about 2k rounds through it so I wasn't surprised. The other day saw the barrel in my safe, decided to clean the shit out of it and recheck lands. They were pushed back about .095 from my last seating depth. Loaded some rounds up with the new depth and it's back to a fuckin laser! SAC/Bartlein barrels are awesome.
​​​​​ This is at my range:
100 yards, indoors, 5 shots.
140 hybrids,
42.5 gr H4350,
2880 fps,
4.7 SD
 

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black500 said:
Interested what calibers you feel would work in the SRS on larger the factory offerings. Obviously to include single fed to make it even possible. I love the versatility of this platform.
Click to expand...

Anything you want that fits a magnum or lapua bolt face. As long as it fits the bolt, and isn't a rimmed case, you're pretty much good to go. Bottom line is that if it will work in a 1.250" shank traditional rifle, then it will likely work in a DT. The HTI shank runs over 1.6"... so again, anything on the cheytac or bmg bolt face and you're good to go.

Just remember that bigger isn't always better. I've had several customers take our custom 300 norma barrels out in their SRS's and absolutely embarrass shooters with 408's, 375's, 416's, and 50bmg's at 2000yds.
 
Sonic Crack said:
All adjustable butt orders have shipped! A Huge thank you to everyone that ordered! I have 11 left that are ready to ship with no waiting
Click to expand...

I am headed to Florida for a school this week. When I get back I will check with you to see if you have any left.
 
orkan said:
Anything you want that fits a magnum or lapua bolt face. As long as it fits the bolt, and isn't a rimmed case, you're pretty much good to go. Bottom line is that if it will work in a 1.250" shank traditional rifle, then it will likely work in a DT. The HTI shank runs over 1.6"... so again, anything on the cheytac or bmg bolt face and you're good to go.

Just remember that bigger isn't always better. I've had several customers take our custom 300 norma barrels out in their SRS's and absolutely embarrass shooters with 408's, 375's, 416's, and 50bmg's at 2000yds.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the info. I’ve already decided a while back my first custom DT barrel will be a 300 Norma but sometimes you just want something ridiculous.
 
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black500 said:
Appreciate the info. I’ve already decided a while back my first custom DT barrel will be a 300 Norma but sometimes you just want something ridiculous.
Click to expand...

If you want ridiculous you can go for the 26 or 28 nosler or one of the other super "mini"-mags too. I've done a couple of the 26 noslers for customers and they're actually not too bad.

Frank
 
And if you want really ridiculous, you can go with a 41" 50 BMG barrel in an HTI
[video=youtube_share;C8EUChWNM-k]https://youtu.be/C8EUChWNM-k[/video]

My Avatar Pic is a 4 shot group with that rifle @100 yards


https://youtu.be/C8EUChWNM-k
 
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sixstrings101 said:
Bet that is nice and portable or is it permanently mounted in the bed of the truck.
Click to expand...

Just shooting out of the bed of the '04 Dakota from a bipod lying on a cheapie Midway USA shooting mat. That's the beauty of having a trusty old truck that you can beat and not worry about it.

I have taken to shooting out of the bed, because the dust cloud that the 50 kicks up when firing prone from the ground is horrendous and gets sand/dirt/dust all over ALL the equipment - nylon shooting bags saturated, pricey optics covered - everything is a mess. It can take hours to clean all that stuff. Shooting from the bed drastically minimizes the signature and resulting mess. And once we started doing it with the 50, we learned it's a convenient shooting position for most/all bipod shooting.
 
secondofangle2 said:
Just shooting out of the bed of the '04 Dakota from a bipod lying on a cheapie Midway USA shooting mat. That's the beauty of having a trusty old truck that you can beat and not worry about it.

I have taken to shooting out of the bed, because the dust cloud that the 50 kicks up when firing prone from the ground is horrendous and gets sand/dirt/dust all over ALL the equipment - nylon shooting bags saturated, pricey optics covered - everything is a mess. It can take hours to clean all that stuff. Shooting from the bed drastically minimizes the signature and resulting mess. And once we started doing it with the 50, we learned it's a convenient shooting position for most/all bipod shooting.
Click to expand...

Wind must not ever blow where you shoot.
 
I too shoot from the bed of my truck when PDog hunting. On occasion on a calm day do the same from the bed of the truck but not in a windy day for groups or load development. BTW it’s not legal to hunt from the back of a truck in Colorado.
 
I don't know if this is covered elsewhere in the 336 pages of this thread, but I recently "discovered" another nice feature of the SRS... long magazines are friggin' LONG. Like, I'm pretty sure that if someone wanted to, he could get away with a nearly 4" OAL in the long action mags. I was playing with a 338 LM Hornady OAL setup last night, and with the projectile I was using (Berger 250 Elite Hunter), my OAL (in an aftermarket barrel setup for 300 gr Bergers) was 3.907 (better than .200" over SAAMI)... imagine my surprise when I grabbed a mag and found out that it'll fit!

Good stuff, there.
 
Hey everyone, I was posting on occasion when this was on Scout and now I'm back here and plan to be more active. I've been shooting my SRS a lot more these last several months and I'm ready for a caliber conversion setup. I currently have 6.5 creedmor and am looking to stretch out to 300WM or 338 Lapua. My main interest is long distance target shooting but also intend to hunt with the new caliber too. I know good ammo for 338 Lapua is an expensive proposition but I am prepared for it if needed :) From an optics standpoint I have an ATACR 5-25 F1.

I am just curious on how people deal with their scopes and zeroes when swapping calibers. I know 6.5/300WM depending on rounds share some ballistic similarities but what about swapping to 338 Lapua? Do you just start from zero each time you swap calibers and re-zero or ? My other question is - should I go with a conversion kit from DT or look at a custom barrel in either caliber?

Thanks for your time!
 
I zero on cheap caliber (308) and mark offsets for others in stock and in TRASOL

IM trusting all my conversions to Eric Smith of ES Tactical in West haven Utah these days. He’s having a sale right now $874 for barrel/extension. Hard to beat that

He made that 50 BMG conversion this summer and it shoots .28 MOA 4-shot groups with factory ammo. Click on my Avatar
 
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There are honestly no flies on the 300 WM and the components are easy to get. New bullets and powders take it up a notch. 338 Lapua has some amazing energy but felt recoil is a lot more than the WM. You could split the difference and get a 300 Norma Mag. If you go read Jeff Brozovich’s experience with the 215 and 230 Bergers on elk (long range hunting.com and longrangeonly.com, he post under Broz) you’ll be convinced that is all you need. Hundreds of dead elk witnessed by him with these bullets. I shot mine with a 215 hybrid and 300 WM.

Youll need to to decide if you want to run a cartridge off the magnum bolt face or lapua bolt face. You can buy a bolt separately from DT and get an amazing barrel from any number of Smiths that post here. FireguyTy is fast and offers good prices and good work.

Regarding scope zeros, some people use the zero offset feature in their app. I just record offsets and then rezero. The LTech turret on vortex scopes makes this pretty easy because you just spin the dial under the cap and don’t have to reset the 0. Some of the scopes that have easy zero stop resets are also very user friendly, Tangent theta, premier, March?
 
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I zero for the caliber I shoot the most (6.5CM) and I know that my .300WM zero is .2 mils left and 0 for elevation. From there, it is just a mental offset. Ballistic calculators can generally account for it for you which reduces the chance of error (forgetting).
 
Shot in the dark before I start hitting up random machine shops in order of proximity to me......I'd like someone to build a covert forend that would allow an amtac cqb to slip inside. Needs 1.62" clearance......any one point me in the direction of the man or outfit who can make this happen?

Thanks in advance,

Alamo
 
I think it would be less expensive and less pain and/or time to buy a TBAC Ultra 7/9; not to mention weight. Youre probably looking at an extra pound between the can and the new forends size. I'd allow for at least 1.75" ID just to account for barrel harmonics, and any flexing from the forend, if you're set on going this route.
 
You'd still have to get a custom forend built or try to machine some clearance into a standard forend to run an ultra.
 
Just got back from a instructor school and I used my DT shooting it both right and left. It took a little getting use to from the left but found it could be done and with good success. Ran it all week with no problems and managed several .250 groups. I now have over 2300 rounds through it and it is holding up great. The More I shoot it the better I like it.
 
If someone could make a replacement handguard for the SRS, I'm sure many people here would be interested in options. If that handguard would also allow a suppressor to be partially exposed, I can run my shorter 308 barrel in my SRS A1.
 
I would also be interested in some sort of way to be able to quickly change handguard lengths between my Covert and standard length.
Maybe a small screw on top and another on the bottom that could use the same torque wrench as the barrel system?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
pinhead said:
If someone could make a replacement handguard for the SRS, I'm sure many people here would be interested in options. If that handguard would also allow a suppressor to be partially exposed, I can run my shorter 308 barrel in my SRS A1.
Click to expand...

What he said! I have been wanting to run my covert barrel under my SRS a1with my ultra 7 for a long time now. Every time I get the bug it ends up being a big pain in the ass and I stop persuing it. In addition to that my old man owns a machine shop.....
 
With how easily most AR hand guards mount today, I can't see it being too hard for someone to create something based off those designs. Every time this has come up in the past though, it comes down to cost effectiveness. The adjustable butt pad can benefit everyone. A different hand guard for NV + Suppressor use doesn't benefit most owners.
 
cro789 said:
Just got back from a instructor school and I used my DT shooting it both right and left. It took a little getting use to from the left but found it could be done and with good success. Ran it all week with no problems and managed several .250 groups. I now have over 2300 rounds through it and it is holding up great. The More I shoot it the better I like it.
Click to expand...

Great to hear! What caliber?
 
Handguard mods is one thing on the list to look into doing. The factory handguard is tuff because there isnt much meat there. making a new larger handguard to fit a suppressor under can be tricky when considering scope height off the rail.


 
Why swap back and forth? Put the covert handguard on and be done. What good does the extra length of the long handguard gain you? I haven't found anything reasonable. The only thing I can think of is to use night vision or thermal sights in front of your regular scope. . .

Frank
 
Juggerxxx said:
Great to hear! What caliber?
Click to expand...
Ran .308 from DT 175. It performed just as advertised. When I did my part it would do what they say it would do. I also used Thunder Beast Ultra 9 the whole time. Great combination quite and performance to boot.
 
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